BMW 

Disc and rim brakes difference. Mechanical disc brakes for bicycles

A bicycle, like any other type of transport, must be equipped with brakes that can be guaranteed to stop it, but will not be excessively large in size and weight. City, folding, children's, that is, predominantly single-speed bicycles are equipped with a rear hub brake. Rim brakes are installed on the wheels of road, touring, hybrid, mountain bikes or on the front wheel of city, folding, and children's bicycles. Disc brakes should be installed on a bicycle if you plan to ride it mainly on mud and snow.

There is a large selection of bicycle brakes, which can be divided into three types according to the type of working, braking surface. In addition, they differ in design.

  1. Bushing: drum, roller.
  2. Rims: pincer, cantilever, V-breaks, U-breaks.
  3. Disc: mechanical, hydraulic.

A disc brake for a bicycle can be varied in design, since it can use different methods of transmitting movement to the braking mechanism. Namely: using a cable in mechanical structures or liquid in hydraulic systems.

Disc brake device

  • The handle is a control mechanism on the steering wheel that activates the actuator.
  • The rotor is a brake disc.
  • Adapter – mounting bracket for attaching the caliper to the bicycle frame.
  • Caliper is a caliper that is an actuator. It does a useful job, namely, braking the wheel. They call it a caliper by analogy with the English name caliper - caliper, caliper.
  • Pads are plates that stop the rotor due to the abrasiveness of their surface.
  • The brake line is a link that transmits mechanical action from the handle to the brake actuator.

Design Features

Disc brake rotor sizes can be: 140, 160, 180, 185, 200, 220 mm. The larger the rotor diameter, the more effective the brake. But not every bike needs the largest diameter disc.

On a mountain bike intended for riding through the forest or going down hills (trail), it is enough to install 160, 180 mm rotors. On a mountain bike that will be used for riding down overgrown slopes (freeride), you need to install 180, 185 mm discs. And for mountain descents (downhill), you need to equip the bike with 200, 220 mm discs. If you want to install a rotor of the largest size, then before doing this you need to change the old wheel to another with the strongest possible spokes.

A hydraulic brake lever is a more complex mechanism than a mechanical brake lever. The hydraulic brake kit consists of a handle, in the body of which there is a control piston, a hydraulic line with solid walls and a caliper. The bicycle hydraulic system can be closed or equipped with an expansion tank on the handle for adding oil.

Mechanical disc brakes can be equipped with a handle from other types of brakes: vibration brakes, cantilever brakes, and pliers.

Bicycle calipers use two types of brake pads, depending on the type of abrasive material.

  1. Metallized;
  2. Organic.

Metallized pads have a contact surface consisting of an alloy of carbon and metal filings. The thermally conductive material of these plates conducts heat away from the contact point, heating the caliper, which is especially detrimental to the performance of hydraulic brake systems. The abrasive material of metallized pads is hard and, as a result, takes a very long time to wear off; it rubs in well even on wet rotors.

U organic records The abrasive surface consists of a mixture of rubber and organic cellulose-based materials. The contact material of organic pads does not conduct heat, so in disc brakes for a bicycle with such pads, only the rotor heats up. The soft material of organic pads, especially when overheated, wears out quickly. But on the other hand, the soft abrasive material does not creak when rubbing against the rotor and breaks in very quickly.

The hydraulic caliper of bicycles is a piston mechanism, and has the same design as that of car or motorcycle calipers, only smaller in size, because it is designed for lower braking forces. Structurally, it consists of a cast body, on one base of which a fixed brake block is fixed, and on the other side a movable piston, or several pistons, with a movable block are inserted. The rotor is seized when the pad is moved by a piston, or pistons, under the pressure of the brake fluid.

Mechanical disc brakes are assembled with calipers, which have a different design than hydraulic calipers. Essentially, a mechanical caliper is a cam mechanism. It has a lever on the outside, unlike a hydraulic caliper; a cable is attached to this lever. In this mechanism, movement from the lever to the piston is transmitted through a multi-thread screw, wedge or cam. It is obvious that the movement of the lever and the blocks occurs in mutually perpendicular planes.

Mounting the brakes

The brake lever body is clamped to the steering wheel using a clamp clamp.

The rotor is fixed to the base of the wheel and rotates with the wheel. On a bicycle, the base of the wheel is the hub. To secure the rotor, you need a bicycle hub with threaded fasteners for it on one of the flanges. In addition, it is necessary to install bushings with flanges of increased diameter to reduce the length of the spokes in order to increase their strength.

The brake lines should not stick out on the sides of the bicycle frame, otherwise they can be caught by a branch, fence or your own leg, and if not broken, then seriously damage the outer sheath - the cable jacket. It's best to clamp all the cables sheathed to the bike's frame and fork using electrical ties.

The front brake caliper is installed on a fork, which has fastenings at the bottom of the legs (feathers) in the form of two posts with internal threads.

The rear caliper is mounted underneath the rear triangle seatstays. You will need to use an adapter to attach the rear caliper.

Bicycle calipers need to be finally secured only after they are centered relative to the rotor. Therefore, you need to tighten the caliper mounting screws in several approaches, and with the brake lever depressed, turning the wheel a full turn.

Advantages of disc brakes over rim brakes

Have excellent modulation. I mean: on a bike with disc brakes you can more accurately control the braking force than on a bike with vibration brakes, cantilever brakes, etc. Even after installing large pads on the rim levers, you cannot get the same response sensitivity as from small pads in the caliper. By the way, braking sensitivity is higher for calipers with a large number of pistons. In addition, the use of organic, rather than metallized, brake pads in calipers increases modulation.

Less polluted. The rotor gets significantly less dust, dirt, water or snow than the wheel rim. Of course, any abrasive or liquid lubricant on the contact surfaces will interfere with the operation of the brakes. This is especially noticeable when riding a bicycle with rim brakes on a wet road: the modulation deteriorates significantly, since in order for the pads to start locking the wheel, they first need to wipe the brake track on the rim from water and dirt.

Eights on wheels do not affect the operation of disc brakes. Everyone understands that with rim brakes the working surface is the wheel rim, and the quality of braking depends on the evenness of its walls. Ideally, to achieve maximum modulation, the braking surface should be completely flat. If the wheel rim is bent, then you have to move the pads further apart. This reduces not only sensitivity, but also braking efficiency. On bicycles with particularly large figure eight wheels, the rim brake handles must be pressed all the way to the grips (handlebar handles) in order to somehow brake.

Do not wash the wheel rim. Due to the fact that disc brakes, in addition to the pads, have a separate wear part - the rotor - after a very long time only this disc will need to be replaced. On a bicycle with rim brakes, over time, after prolonged scratching by the pads, the aluminum rims have to be replaced when their walls break due to thinning.

Have a long service life. Metallized pads last especially long before they need to be replaced, and they wear out almost simultaneously along with the rotors. Rubber-cellulose rim brake pads are often coated with water and abrasives in the form of dust and sand, and therefore wear out faster than cleaner disc brake pads made of the same material. It should be noted that brakes whose pads wear out quickly need to be adjusted frequently, bringing the pads closer to each other.

Advantages of hydraulic brakes over mechanical ones

Have better modulation. As you know, mechanical brakes use a cable to transmit movement from the handle to the actuator. The cable, especially if not lubricated, rubs when moving along the jacket. The fluid inside hydraulic brake lines moves without noticeable resistance, which is why hydraulic disc brakes allow you to brake with just one finger on the handle.

Brake pads compress with greater force. Brake fluid in hydraulic lines does not actually compress unless it boils. Whereas a cable, even a thick one, will probably stretch if you press on the handle with great force.

Pads release faster. Hydraulics have fewer rubbing mechanical parts inside the caliper. In hydraulic brakes, especially those with oil in the hydraulic lines, the pistons in the calipers are well lubricated by brake fluid.

Disadvantages of disc brakes

Main disadvantage. When disc brakes operate, braking force is transmitted to the road surface first through the spokes, and then through the rim and tire. In short, when braking, a bending force is applied to the spokes. To prevent the knitting needles from breaking, you need to increase their thickness or reduce their length. Trying to reduce the length of the spokes as much as possible, bicycle manufacturers install hubs with flanges of the largest diameter on wheels with disc brakes.

Significant disadvantage. The entire disc brake set weighs more than rim brakes. The additional weight is also provided by the large diameter bushings required for mounting such brakes.

Minor disadvantage. It is difficult to find a replacement for a failed part, such as pads or a brake line. Even from the same manufacturer, but on different caliper models, brake pads of different sizes and mounting methods are used. Different hydraulic brake manufacturers use different types of fluid in their brake lines. So, for example: at the Hayes, Avid, Formula factories it is customary to pour antifreeze into the brake lines, and other best manufacturers of bicycle parts Shimano, Tektro, Magura use low-viscosity oil instead of antifreeze. They have a reason for this, since antifreeze is made from castor oil and a solvent, so it burns the skin of your hands and dissolves or discolors paintwork.

Minor problem. The rear disc brake makes it difficult to secure the rack to the bike. For many cyclists who use a bicycle as daily transport, it is very important to be able to remove the weight from the handlebars or from the shoulders in the form of a backpack, and attach it to the rack. Most bicycle models with disc brakes do not have additional mounting holes on the frame, and the installed caliper makes it difficult to secure the rack supports evenly. You can buy a cantilever rack that attaches to your seatpost, but it costs twice as much as racks with legs. There are also cantilever racks with additional supports, and although these supports are attached at a significant angle to the frame, they make it possible to carry quite heavy loads on a bicycle.

To summarize, it must be said that you should only buy a real mountain bike, with large rotors and a hydraulic braking system, if you really plan to use it for its intended purpose, that is, on mountain roads. Hydraulic brakes cost a lot of money, so at the same price, a vehicle equipped with such brakes will have worse other parts than a bicycle with rim or disc mechanical brakes.

A bicycle is a mechanical vehicle. It is used to move around the city, when descending a steep pass and during competitions. In such cases, reliable and high-quality brakes are simply necessary. Experts advise that before using a bicycle, check the serviceability of the brake system, which ensures comfortable and safe movement.

Terminology

This review will discuss the main types of braking systems. But in order to understand their inherent advantages and disadvantages, some terms should be clarified in advance.

The most important criterion for the operation of the braking system is its modulation. This term reflects the ability of a vehicle to change the amount of braking force depending on the level of pressure on the brake lever. Next comes the braking distance, which does not need detailed explanation.

Braking efficiency refers to the ability of brakes to operate in various weather conditions (during snow, rain, frost). Reliability level - the ability of the braking system to operate in difficult operating conditions. For example, during hikes along mountain passes, under the influence of extreme loads, after soaking in mud, and so on.

And the last term that will be used when describing braking systems is maintenance requirements. This refers to how often owners of two-wheeled vehicles will be required to change components, periodically adjust the system, and also adjust its operation.

Rim brakes: advantages and disadvantages

For a long period of time, starting in the mid-90s, there were virtually no alternatives to rim brake systems. They were installed on all produced bicycles. And such models cost a lot of money. But since the mid-2000s, rim brakes began to be replaced by disc brakes. But this does not mean that they are outdated, since to this day rim brake systems are installed on a large number of two-wheeled vehicles.

So, from the name it is clear that these brakes act on the wheel rim, thereby slowing down its movement. As a rule, they are used in the production of road racing models. The basic principle of operation: with the help of several arc-shaped levers, the brake pads clamp the bicycle rim. As for the quality, technical and operational parameters inherent in these brake systems, they directly depend on the perfection of the chosen model. For example, systems from Campagnolo and Shimano produce professional components. Therefore, their braking systems will differ from analogues in their high level of efficiency, excellent functionality and reliability in use.

Generally speaking, without paying attention to elite components, we can say that the braking power of rim systems is low, and they also have mediocre efficiency and modulation.

Today, the following models of rim brake systems are distinguished:

  1. Mechanical (V-brake, pincer and cantilever);

  1. Hydraulic.

The most common are V-brake models. Their name reflects the V-shaped mounting of the levers.

V-brake device

Clip-on brakes have a U-shaped lever attachment. Cantilever systems are installed mainly on cyclocross bikes that are exposed to massive mud. Hydraulic brake systems transfer fluid through a hydraulic line from the handle to the brake pads for braking.

We invite you to watch a short video instruction on setting up V-brake brakes.

Features of disc brake systems

A disc brake consists of a rotor (steel disc) and a caliper. The rotor is mounted on the wheel hub. As a rule, it is placed on the left side. A caliper is a device that helps compress the disc with brake pads. Braking force is transmitted using a cable or hydraulic line.

Mechanical disc brake device:

All disc brake systems existing today can be divided into several categories:

  1. Hydraulic;
  2. Mechanical.

Rear disc brake

Front disc brake

Hydraulic disc brake

Hydraulic brakes transmit brake fluid through a hydraulic line to stop a two-wheeled vehicle. As for mechanical models, braking is carried out using a cable.

If we talk about the advantages of disk systems in relation to existing analogues, then it is worth noting their ease of operation. Due to the fact that they are mounted in close proximity to the center of the wheel, the brakes practically do not become clogged while driving. Unlike rim models, disc brakes allow the cyclist to smoothly adjust the braking force. As practice shows, disc brake systems rarely fail and do not require much maintenance. In addition, they do not affect the level of rim wear.

You can see an example of setting up a disc brake, front and rear derailleur of a bicycle in the video:

Like other vehicle components, disc brake systems, in addition to their advantages, also have their disadvantages. Here we can note the high financial costs during maintenance. Despite the fact that disc brake systems have a long service life, if a malfunction occurs, they will require a considerable amount of money to fix it. It should also be said about the weight of disc brakes. In many disciplines, this indicator is of great importance.

Drum Brake Systems

Their main feature is their placement directly in the wheel hubs. Can be controlled either by the cyclist's hand or foot. It is worth noting the fact that today hand drum brakes are practically not used. This is due to their heavy weight and ease of maintenance. But foot models can even be found today in many city or road bikes.

Drum brake:

The advantages of drum brake systems include a high level of resistance to the negative effects of water, dirt and other aggressive environments on their body. Does not affect rim wear.

Among the disadvantages are the large weight, low braking power, and the possibility of overheating during a long descent from a hill. In conditions of alternating “brake” and “gas” it is very difficult to maneuver.

Roller brakes

Many experts classify roller brake systems as drum brake systems. But they have a slightly different principle of pressing the pads to the drum. Roller brakes were invented at the end of the last century and were supposed to become worthy competitors to disc models. But due to their design features, their use was limited, which affected the level of production. Among the advantages are: power, ease of operation, high level of protection from moisture, snow, and dirt.

Roller brake on rear wheel:


Today we'll learn how to set up V-Brakes, which are otherwise known as linear brakes. For this job you will need a 5mm hex socket as well as a Phillips screwdriver. To better understand the process of setting up V-Brakes on your bike, check out the pictures that show each step in order.

1. Loosen the anchor bolt.

Loosen the mounting bolt, causing the brake cable to slide as shown in the picture to open the brake.

2. Secure the wheel.

Attach the front wheel according to the installation instructions

3. Align the brake pads parallel to the rim

Loosen the brake pads as shown in the illustration. Align the pads parallel to the rim. Tighten the brake pad bolt

4. Connecting the cable to the brake lever

Connect the brake cable to the handle according to the steps shown in the figure.

5. Lay the cable with the brake cable and tighten the anchor bolt

Squeeze the brake caliper and firmly secure the cable as shown in the figure, observing the order of actions.

6. Perform a bike brake test

Press the brake handle at least 3 times and, if necessary, repeat step 5

7. Brake balancing

Adjust the spring tension as shown in the figure using the adjusting screw and a square screwdriver. Achieve a distance of 2mm on both sides between the brake pad and the bicycle rim

8. Insert the cable

Adjust cable tension if necessary

Repeat all the steps to adjust the front and rear brakes of your bike.

Opening and closing the brakesV-Brake for wheel removal

Pull the rubber siphon to the right

Squeeze the brake caliper and pull the brake cable (as in the picture to the left and up)

Move the unlocked brake pads apart

Repeat the reverse steps to close the brake.

If you still have difficulty adjusting and adjusting the brakes V-Brake bicycle, then watch this video:

Few cyclists these days still ride with rim brakes. This once extremely popular braking system standard is already living its last days. I remember that not so long ago, on the bike track in Krylatskoye, I accidentally got into a conversation with a cyclist on a GT bike with disc brakes. Having looked at my bicycle apparatus, he was surprised that I use v-brakes and called me an “old schooler” (from old school- old school), so this article is dedicated to those bicycle enthusiasts who prefer a simple and very convenient v-brakes braking system.

One famous St. Petersburg messenger DR Gonzo once noted in his interview:

« Disc brakes are a scam for suckers! The only place where they justify themselves is the ‘mud racing up to their ears in clay’ in Moscow and Adler. And even then, I’ll tell you that at the ARK-2007 mud race in Moscow, V-break racers won both races. I don’t know how to drive such races (and I don’t hide it), and neither discs nor anything else will help me in such a situation. So for myself, I just decided not to go to mud races in Moscow, because there’s no point in it. V-breaks, especially in combination with ceramic rims, are more than sufficient in all other situations. Plus, I would like to add ease of maintenance, ease of reassembly, availability of spare parts (pads, shirts, cables) in almost any bike shop.”

In some ways you can agree with him, in others you can’t. Disc brakes came to cycling from motorcycling, where the braking force needed to be much greater. At first, they were equipped with bicycles for downhill, north shore and other extreme disciplines, but marketing does not stand still, and since 2005-2006, disc brakes began to appear en masse on touring and cross-country equipment. Those who rode in those years remember very well what a joy it was to have a disc brake on a bicycle, and how cool it was.

Alas, or perhaps fortunately, this action bypassed me - in those years I was a hungry student at Moscow State University, and the entire upgrade, as a rule, came down to buying a new set of tires, chains, cables, shirts, cassette for the next season, but I still dreamed about disks one way or another.

Do you need disc brakes?

I don’t like to impose my opinion, but until 2012 I did without discs, because I didn’t shoot from the mountains, I didn’t drive much in the mud. In leisurely touring, disc brakes do not play a special role. Otherwise, the advantages of disc brakes are undeniable - instant powerful braking force in any conditions. In addition, it is possible to hammer on the unevenness of the rim in the form of figure eights, and the rim does not wear off, it is possible to easily stop the bike with a light touch of one finger.

If you are a supporter of all kinds of rides and bike trips, and race in XC races, hydraulics are your 100% choice. Personally, I switched to hydraulics at the moment when I began to actively drive through the Crimea and other hilly areas with constant climbs and, accordingly, descents. I think that disc brakes today will definitely be the best choice over rim brakes, and this is not only due to the quality of their excellent braking, but rather the fact that the market for rim brakes and wheels produced for them is gradually fading away.

Rim brakes for touring

How to improve the braking quality of rim brakes?

Let's try to figure out what primarily determines the quality of the v-brakes system:

1. The quality of the cables themselves.

The cables must be of good quality and made of good stainless steel; The best cables, as a rule, are Teflon-coated; they have a much lower coefficient of friction against the shirts, which is the only one I use. There are also good cables without coating with a slightly golden tint, but I haven’t seen them for a long time.

2. Quality of shirts.

Here, too, you shouldn’t chase cheapness. Shirts must be of appropriate quality, it’s better not to go for cheapness here, I take Jagwire, Shimano XTR, Alligator shirts - these brands have never let me down.

3. Quality of pads.

There are hard pads and soft pads. For mud and winter, harder ones are better, for good weather softer ones, but I only use branded pads Kool-Stop. Either soft or medium hard, so as not to quickly kill the rim, which usually runs about 35,000 km under me.

4. The quality of the rim brake tracks.

Also an important part of the system. As a rule, all modern rims costing more than $30 do not have any special problems.

5. Brake levers.

The modulation depends on them, as does the “feeling of the brake” itself; it’s not worth cheaping out here either. Usually matched to the brakes, i.e. the handles and the brakes themselves are taken from the same manufacturer.

6. Length of shirts and treatment of their ends from burrs.

Shirts should not be too long or short, and the ends should be sanded.

7. Quality of tips.

The tips should fit tightly into the jacket, without giving moisture and dirt the slightest chance of getting inside the cable.

9. Lubricant in the eyeliner.

The aluminum cable connection itself must be of the correct shape (usually different connections are placed on the front/back). There is a plastic guide in the liner for sliding the cable, so you need to periodically remove accumulated dirt from there and make sure that there is always fresh sliding lubricant there.

Shimano rim brakes

Let's start with good old Japanese Shimano. As a rule, the Japanese won’t screw a pig, let’s try to figure out what’s what. Frankly, I really love and respect Shimano, however, things are not so smooth for them either.

1. Rim brakesShimano Alivio\Acera — review

I only used these brakes for a month and went on a 3-day hike and a couple of KK rides with them. The cost is approximately 200 to 300 rubles per side. They are set up disgustingly, they seem to slow down quite well, but there is no modulation, you often have to adjust them. Not bad for pleasure bikes, but rather weak for tourism.

2. Shimano Deore\LX rim brakes - review

I combined them into one group, since the only difference is in the pads; on the Deors they are no good, but on the LX they are already of the cartridge type, and are quite suitable for a month or two, then you can install good rubber bands. In general, they have a more fun spring and are easier to tune, but the modulation and travel are a little dull. I sometimes put them on for the winter.

3. VibrationsShimano XT review

If we don’t consider the “parallel” brakes, these are perhaps the best brakes in their line - a good powerful spring, easy to adjust, smooth powerful action. A year has passed under me, now they are on the wife’s bike, no problems!

Price is about $40 per side.

4. Parallel units LX, XT, XTR

Trials are very fond of parallels. Greater power, even wear of the pads, but there are also disadvantages - more weight, hinges that become loose and rattle over time, creaking (especially in the XT). I haven’t used the LX, the XT brakes well, but they creak; The best choice is XTR: great work, super looks, but the $80 price is daunting. For a long time, the XTR stood behind me; I bought new ones second-hand for 1,700 rubles. Excellent brakes with good travel; They work, as befits a top group, head and shoulders above HT. However, they become unpleasantly clogged with dirt or snow in winter. The result of the service - I sold it for 1300 rubles.

Avid rim brakes

1. Avid single digit 3 (SD3) - review

These brakes are very difficult to find commercially. Usually they are placed on the drain. In terms of price, they usually cost around 300 rubles. They have shitty pads, but the brakes themselves are made of high quality and without flaws. They brake at the LX\Deore level, plus excellent modulation. Their main disadvantage is their durability; they usually last for a season or two of active riding. In winter, unfortunately, their uncovered spring will die quickly. Conclusion - the best tromosa in terms of price/quality for park riding and dry roads. I bought them at a flea market for 300 rupees, 2 sides from the Garik Fisher derban, rode them in the fall and winter, and threw them in the trash because the springs died.

2. Avid single digit 5 ​​(SD5) - review

These cost about 600 rubles per side. A little lighter than three rubles, they have more or less decent pads with which you can go somewhere. In terms of performance, I hardly noticed any difference with the three-ruble note; in terms of service life, they worked for a season and a half, after which the springs died. The settings are a little capricious, but overall it’s a good choice for tourism.

3,4. Avid single digit 7 (SD7) and SL - review

The best brakes for price and quality! The springs are already closed, better modulation and easier tuning. Excellent durability, I have already had 8 thousand km of life, they work like a good watch. Instead of regular screws for adjustments, they have a hex bolt, which is very convenient. The price is about 900-1300 rubles per side. The price is a little high, but the weight and quality of work and execution are excellent.

SL differ from “7s” in that they are equipped with titanium bolts to reduce weight.

5. Avid single digit ultimate - review

Do you want “vibrators” priced at 4,500 rubles per side? Then “ultimate” comes to you. To be honest, I haven’t used it, it’s too much of a toad, but according to reviews on foreign sites, these are the kings among vibrators. Instead of simple sliding bushings, there are already “proms”, unrealistically powerful springs, and hypermodulation. Of the minuses - again, complete liners in the pads... They need to be changed. I think that someday I won’t be able to resist and buy this particular brake system. Although they weigh more than the SL model.

6. Avid FR-5 brake levers - review

I note that it is advisable to use all Avid brakes with Avid brake levers. There are three models, I use the simplest, lightest and cheapest model costing 400 rubles FR-5 - comfortable, “eternal” handles, there are also more expensive models with a travel adjustment system - “speed dial”.

Tektro rim brakes - review

“Tektriki”, as a rule, are installed on many inexpensive bicycles, and the name of the bicycle brand itself is often written on them. So, I came across “tektrics” with the inscriptions “scott”, “merida”, “orbea”, etc. Tektro has 3-4 popular models, identical in price and approximately in quality. Price range - 200-300 rubles. per side. Sometimes you come across more expensive models, costing 500-900 rubles, they are better in quality, and they have a more powerful spring. In general, for winter and “shitty” (when you don’t mind) they are good brakes, but they are too sensitive in the settings. They stood on my cyclocross-road course as an inexpensive and good option, they do their job, and I don’t need anything else. The service life is a couple of years, after which the spring dies and they need to be replaced.

TRP rim brakes - review

As I understand it, this is a division of the Tektro company, only, as they say, the top, the very top. It is famous primarily for its road carbon brakes. I’ve been wanting to try these brakes for a long time, and so in winter I bought them in Sokolniki at a discount at a price just below the “kettle”. They also came with brake levers, which were also much cheaper than the chain.

I paid 3400 rubles for 2 brakes and 2 handles (at a chain price of 4400). Their special feature is their low weight (actually 151 grams), they are milled, i.e. Made from a piece of solid aluminum, the kit includes titanium bolts to save weight and, nicely, titanium sliding bushings, which is especially important for me.

The handles are also beautifully made and of high quality, also with a titanium sliding bushing and a titanium bolt; In addition, they can be removed from the steering wheel without removing the grips. I have already driven more than 3000 km on them in the summer season alone. The braking is smoother than that of the Avids, the pads are kool stop, the kit comes with stainless steel cables (golden shade) and fairly high-quality jackets, but I still installed Teflon cables and jackets from Jagwire. Require sale only in a branded box - in one shop in Sokolniki they first tried to sell them to me without shirts, cables and Ti-bolts, but I was vigilant... What can I say, the brakes showed themselves to be very good, the quality of work and execution is excellent. At first they were a little capricious, but after lubricating the internal springs they worked as they should. Overall, if you want to lose weight, this is the choice for you, otherwise buy the cheaper Avid 7 and have no problems.

No name (and Promax)

There are many brakes without any identification marks. It is worth noting that among them it is very rare, but there are good brakes, but still products from an unnamed manufacturer are sometimes dangerous for your life. Example - Promax, I have never seen worse brakes...

Website verdict: I would like to point out right away that this is my personal opinion. Those. I tried to compare everything I rode in order to summarize the information and help those who have not yet decided. The debate “discs vs vibrators” will never end, it’s a question of religion and personal preferences, to each his own. The interesting thing about wheels for me is that I can put together 2 sets of wheels and easily make a 26" Niner out of my titanium rigid, but this is a significant investment of money that is equivalent to buying a new inexpensive road bike. Of all the manufacturers of vibrators, I liked Avid the most due to the price/quality/weight/appearance ratio. Alas, the “Shimano” is still a little worse, the owners of the stock “tektrik” should sleep well at first, they will not let you down, otherwise the work of the vibrators greatly depends on the condition of the cables, shirts and all those points that I listed in a separate chapter articles.

The pads should be replaced with new ones when their braking surface is worn down to the level of the grooves for dirt drainage, that is, when the working surface becomes completely flat. And if the pads are worn out on only one side, this means that they were installed incorrectly and will also need to be replaced.

First, loosen the screw holding the cable.



The main thing when installing a conventional brake pad is to put on all the washers and gaskets that make up their fasteners in the correct sequence. Also note that some models of pads can be divided into left and right, this is indicated on the pads themselves, keep this in mind when installing.

Replacing cartridge pads is even easier. They have a metal base and only the rubber pad needs to be changed. These pads have a locking pin (don’t lose it); you need to pull it out and pull out the rubber pad. Then insert new pads and secure with a cotter pin. When installing the trims, pay attention to the right and left side indicators.


After replacing the pads, fully tighten the adjusting drum on the brake lever and unscrew it one turn. Squeeze the brake levers with your fingers, replace the cable and secure with the screw. The distance from the wheel rim to the pads should be 2 mm.

Rim brakes have a very simple operating principle - two brake pads installed opposite each other and parallel to the wheel, and between them. By pressing the brake lever, the force is transmitted through the system to the brake levers, which press the pads to the wheel rim, stopping it.

For proper operation of rim brakes, you need to ensure the integrity of the cable and the absence of “eights” on the wheel. If at least one fiber on the cable breaks, it needs to be replaced. The cable must move freely in the jacket, and if it gets stuck, either the cable or the jacket must be changed.

The main thing in the high-quality operation of rim brakes is the high-quality pressing of the pads to the rim. This can be adjusted by fastening the pads. The fastener consists of a set of washers, gaskets and a nut; it allows you to secure the block at the desired angle.

To make adjustments, loosen the nut on each shoe slightly so that the shoe can be moved with your fingers, but the shoe itself does not move. Install the block parallel to the wheel rim, note that it should not touch the tire (the distance between the block and the tire must be at least 1 mm.).



  • If you have soft rubber brake pads, they will become deformed when braking. Therefore, they must be installed so that the leading edge of these pads is 1 mm. closer to the rim than the rear. To do this, before adjusting, you need to place a 1-1.5 mm thick gasket under the rear parts of the pads. For example, a piece of rubber cut from a worn bicycle inner tube.


  • If you have brake pads with a rigid base that do not deform when braking, you must install them strictly parallel to the rim.



Next, look at the brake levers. Squeeze and release the brake levers several times, the levers should converge and diverge equally. This can be adjusted using the spring tension screws located at the base of the lever. We tighten the adjusting screw on the lever that deflects too little, and unscrew it if the lever deflects too much.


In order to remove the wheel, you do not need to unscrew the brake cable; you just need to release it from the clamp. To do this, squeeze the brake levers with your hands and remove the hard part of the cable jacket from the socket.