We check, repair and change the ignition switch on the domestic “Ten. We check, repair and change the ignition switch on the domestic “Ten Best ignition switch for VAZ 2110”

Hello again, dear readers of my blog. Today, as always, we are considering a topic related to the car. We will pay special attention to such a unit as the ignition switch of the VAZ 2110. Let’s briefly go over: purpose, structure, causes of malfunction, repair.

The connecting link of the whole organism

There is a misconception among most car owners that the main thing in a car is the engine, transmission, and chassis. Someone will ask, why is it wrong? It is necessary to consider the machine as a single, whole organism. And all components and assemblies are exclusively components.

For example, a breakdown of the starting system will lead to the fact that the vehicle will stop and will not be able to continue moving. Requires prompt repair. How well the example was chosen is the topic of today’s article. However, whether or not the reader agrees with my statement is up to him to decide individually.

Board layout and layout

For the entire Lada line, the lock is located on the right side of the steering wheel, sewn into a plastic box, presented in the form of a complete block made of duralumin alloy. On the back side there is a board with contact connectors (8 in total). The contact group of wires has strictly its purpose, the diagram (pinout) is as follows:

1. Key microswitch;
2. Driver's door weight;
3. Circuit for starter to supply “plus”;
4. 12 W. for supply to the starting system;
5. Zero on the key when it is in the keyhole;
6. Illuminated lock slot;
7. Voltage directly from the battery;
8. Reserve socket for connecting other devices at the driver’s discretion.

Despite the fact that old and new locks are sold, with and without backlighting, the structure of the core and contact board is absolutely identical. When the wire connection diagram does not match, carefully refer to the operating instructions.

Key position

• The main position is “0” when the system is completely de-energized;
• The “I” mark will indicate that the system is active and turned on. It is possible to turn on the dimensions, headlights, direction indicators, windshield wipers, the informative instrument panel lights up, the stove heater is activated, the heated filaments of the rear window of the car glow, a lamp on the console shows the status of the units;
• The key is on the “II” mark: the car’s power unit is started. But to start the engine itself, moving the key to position “II” is not enough. You need to turn it a little further until it stops. Voltage will be supplied to the car starter, which will start the engine. After a successful start, the key will return to position “II”, the starter will turn off, and the internal combustion engine will continue to operate. Sometimes the engine does not start the first time.

Symptoms of a problem

1. After starting the engine, The auto key does not return to position “II”. This indicates that the ignition switch cylinder is already very worn, the return spring is weak, and the resistance has decreased. At this moment, the starter and motor work simultaneously, which is detrimental to both components of the car. Systematic such “starts” will lead to the fact that the owner will have to buy new “brushes” for the starter, worse when the starter is entirely. And this is not a cheap pleasure. The spring cannot be repaired, so purchasing a new one is required.
2. Mechanical damage due to an attempt to steal a vehicle by attackers;
3. The entire system does not work: due to careless handling directly by the driver himself. It's no secret that each of us has our own manners and driving style. Some treat their “favorites” with care, others change them like gloves.

Solutions

Drivers without experience, as practice shows, at the first breakdown, run to service stations or car markets to buy a new ignition switch, giving away their hard-earned money. My advice is, don't rush to do this. Perhaps the reason is completely trivial, not worth such waste. Do-it-yourself replacement will take no more than 5 minutes. If you are not sure, contact a highly qualified electrician at a service station to carry out diagnostics and identify the fault. Having the skills, disassemble the lock and repair the damage. The lock from Priora is similar in design to the younger and older models, for example, the VAZ 2107, and the VAZ 2114 has a similar structure.

How to replace and disassemble?

• Remove the terminal on the battery marked “-”. If there is a central toggle switch in the car, you can turn it off.
• Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws at the bottom of the steering wheel housing.
• We directly remove the casing itself.
• Using an “8” spanner, unscrew the ignition switch mounting bolts and disconnect the contact board.
• If the failure is in the core, then we replace it entirely with a new one; if the contact is damaged, then we replace the board.
• Assembly is carried out in a similar manner, only in reverse order. Electrical wiring must be packaged carefully and without damage.

For those who are unsure, you can use the car's operating manual, which describes in detail this or that unit, connection diagram, assembly, and photos are attached. Agree that the difference in price is significant, whether to buy the entire lock, or just the core.

Recommendation: good quality spare parts and components from the Dimitrovgrad Automotive Assembly Plant (DAAZ). Buy it, you won't regret it. The online store will help you quickly buy a part directly from the manufacturer. To choose a particular brand, be sure to read customer reviews and watch video tutorials.

The main thing when starting the car is to use the original key that “comes” from the factory. Since the immobilizer is a kind of anti-theft device that will prevent the engine from starting. The electrical circuit is connected to the car alarm or central locking.

If your car key is lost or fails for any reason, you must contact certified service centers to make a duplicate. Some “craftsmen” manage to deactivate the immobilizer, but this is similar to disabling the antivirus program on the computer. Would you do it? I doubt. One can only guess how much the repair costs.

This concludes the discussion of the topic. I really hope that the article will be useful to many readers. Due to numerous requests from car enthusiasts, in the following articles we will consider such topics as the injector, the on-board computer displays errors on the VAZ 2114, the clutch cable on the VAZ 2114 has flown, what to do. Thank you all for your attention. See you soon.

The VAZ 2110 ignition switch cannot be called a reliable part, especially when you compare its service life with the same devices on cars of foreign origin. Therefore, owners of the tenth - twelfth model, who use the car for a long time, sooner or later encounter problems with the lock and its repair. On the other hand, the element can be easily removed from the car and every skilled motorist can replace it. But first you should figure out whether the entire part needs to be replaced, since in most cases it can be repaired.

Reasons for replacing the ignition switch

There are 3 main reasons leading to breakdowns of this device:

• mechanical wear as a result of long-term use;
• problems with the electrical part of the lock;
• damage due to attempted break-ins and car theft.

Reference. The first troubles associated with turning on the ignition and starting the engine may appear after three years of operation of the VAZ 2110-2112.

Appearance of the ignition switch VAZ 2110-2112

Not every one of the listed reasons leads to a complete replacement of the element; sometimes you can get by with “little loss” by changing one of its parts. To determine this issue, you need to diagnose the signs of a malfunction:

1. Contacts are burnt or oxidized. In this case, the mechanical part works, but the electrical part does not. The problem is solved by cleaning or replacing the contact group.
2. The key gets stuck in the slot, after starting the engine it is not thrown back and you have to turn it by hand. These are malfunctions of the core (larvae) and the ejection spring, which can be completely repaired.
3. Obvious mechanical failures of the locking tongue (the steering wheel is very difficult to rotate), jamming or cracks in the housing are a reason to replace the entire ignition switch.

In the event of a mechanical failure, the key may not turn or may not be released by the spring.

A separate issue is the loss of all keys by the owners. It can be solved in two ways - by replacing the entire device or the key turning mechanism - the cylinder. For obvious reasons, the second option will be cheaper, especially if you do the work yourself.

Reference. As practice shows, the mechanical insides of an element can be broken by an ignorant driver who has lost his keys and is trying to unlock the steering wheel in order to start the engine by shorting the wires. There is a more elegant way - to remove the lock, and only then connect the wires of certain colors, as described below.

Checking the lock contact group with a multimeter

A faulty contact group can be easily diagnosed if you have a multimeter or other device with a resistance measurement function in your household. To do this, you need to get to the connector located under the plastic frame of the steering column and disconnect it. Then use a multimeter to measure the resistance between all contacts in the block, turning the key to different positions. Depending on the result, the following conclusions are drawn:

• the device shows infinity - the contact group is out of order and needs to be replaced;
• some resistance value indicates burnt or oxidized contacts, try to clean them;
• zero readings on the device indicate that the electrical part is fully operational.

VAZ 2110 ignition switch diagram

Important! You need to measure the resistance in the block whose wires come from the ignition switch (male connector), do not confuse it with other contacts connected to the car’s on-board network.

Instructions for removing the element

For disassembly you need to prepare a simple set of tools:

• 10 mm head and ratchet drive;
• Phillips screwdriver;
• narrow chisel (width 5-8 mm);
• hammer;
• round nose pliers with tapered, curved ends.

Ignition switch replacement tool

To successfully install a new or repaired lock in place, it is advisable to purchase 4 special fastening bolts with M6 threads with a head size of 10 mm and a length of 20 mm. Their feature is the heads that come off with a key at a certain tightening torque. After tearing off the heads, semicircular caps remain on the surface, which are much more difficult to unscrew for an untrained person. But you will have to do this during disassembly.

The battery must be disconnected before starting work.

Like any event related to tampering with the electrical part of the car, dismantling the ignition switch begins with disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. Then proceed in this order:

1. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the screws holding the two halves of the plastic frame of the steering column together.
2. Lower the handle that fixes the position of the steering wheel during adjustment all the way down and remove the plastic panels. Disconnect the ignition switch block and carefully cut the tape connecting your bundle of wires to the common harness. In order not to cling to the steering column switch during operation, it can also be pulled out of the connector.
3. On the metal casing of the steering column you will see a lock mount consisting of two clamps. They are held together by 4 bolts with the heads torn off (visible on the left side). Pointing the chisel at the semicircular caps, use a hammer to loosen the tightening of these bolts one by one.
4. Using pliers and then your hands, unscrew all 4 bolts and remove the ignition switch.

Unscrewing the plastic steering column cover

Note. There are “dozens” in which not all the bolt heads are torn off during assembly. This simplifies the matter; the fasteners can be easily unscrewed with a 10 mm socket.

Bolts with intact heads can be unscrewed with a wrench

At the stage of disconnecting the connectors, it becomes possible to check the functionality of the contact group by measuring resistance, as described in the previous section. If you remove the lock due to the loss of the keys and want to move on, then after dismantling you need to do the following:

1. On the “mother” block, which remains hanging after the lock is turned off, find contacts with thick wires of purple and blue color (the latter with a black stripe).
2. Connect these terminals with any conductor, after which the ignition will turn on.
3. The thick red wire leads to the starter. To start, its contact must be temporarily connected to the installed jumper. When the engine starts, the red wire must be disconnected.

This is how jumpers are inserted into the block to start the engine without a key.

Advice. It is more convenient to look at the colors of the conductors on the harness of the removed device, and then find them on the “mother”.

After unscrewing the fasteners and disconnecting the wires, the lock can be easily removed from the car

Assembly is carried out in the reverse order, but taking into account the following precautions:

• do not tighten the fastening bolts until you have accurately aligned the position of the lock on the casing so that the facing plastic panel fits smoothly into place;
• before final tightening the bolts, make sure that the lock snaps into place when turning the steering wheel, otherwise adjust the position of the lock;
• The tightening torque should be such that the heads of the new bolts come off and the round heads remain.

When installing and tightening the bolts, their heads should come off

If you think that special fasteners are not an obstacle for car thieves, then you can screw in regular bolts with M6 threads and carefully tighten them.

Dismantling the VAZ 2110 lock in the photo

This connector must be disconnected in order to remove the lock. The steering column switch can be easily removed from the socket. Appearance of the mount. It can be seen that not all the bolts are broken. Bolts without heads are torn out of place with a chisel. After unscrewing, the left fastening clamp is removed. The lock with the right clamp is held on by wires that need to be disconnected. After the bolts are torn off with a chisel, they can be easily unscrewed with pliers

Training video on replacing the ignition switch

Replacing the contact group

In the event that, as a result of diagnostics, a malfunction of the contact group is detected, you will still have to remove the ignition switch, since it will not be possible to get to it in any other way. After removing the element, disassemble it using the following algorithm:

1. Disconnect the connectors with the backlight power wires.
2. Remove the decorative plastic cover by releasing the 4 latches. Work carefully because these clips are easy to break off, and buying a cover separately is quite a task. It is not advisable to change the entire lock because of it.
3. By bending the 2 clamps holding the contact group, remove it from the ignition switch.

The plastic cover can be removed using a screwdriver

Note. You will additionally need a small flat-head screwdriver as a tool to bend the latches.

The contact group is located immediately under the cover

First of all, examine the status of the contacts. If they have darkened (oxidized), then clean the current-carrying surfaces with fine sandpaper P1000. Then put the group in place and, without installing the lock, connect it to the vehicle's on-board electrical system to check its functionality. If unsuccessful, the part must be replaced. The same will have to be done if the contacts are burnt or the group does not work without any external signs of malfunction.

The part is removed after bending two latches

Installation of a new larva

To replace the lock core due to mechanical failure, remove it from the vehicle as described above. Then follow this algorithm:

1. Insert the key into the slot and use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the 3 screws holding the 2 halves of the lock body together.
2. Separate the housing while holding it with the key facing up. If you hold the lock in a different position during disassembly and do not insert the key, the insides will spill out and you will not understand how to put them back together. In this case, the ball with springs may get lost.
3. Remove the locking mechanism, which consists of two spring-loaded parts, and pull out the spring itself.
4. After removing the key, carefully remove the core so that the ball with the spring (located on the side of the cylinder) is not lost.

To disassemble the case, you need to unscrew 3 screws

Before replacing, it is necessary to remove the return spring from the old cylinder, since it is not sold complete with a new core. The spring is inside the part on the back side in a cocked state; it must be installed in the same form on the new cylinder. Also, do not forget to remove the thin spring from the hole where the ball is inserted.

The locking mechanism tongue peeks out from the bottom of the case

Important point. Remember that if you replace the core because it is broken, the new key will no longer fit the door lock. There are 2 options: use two separate keys or simultaneously change the cylinder in the door. The last method becomes the only applicable one when all the keys are lost.

The larva must be pulled out so as not to lose the details

When installing the core, you need to move the spring for the ball into the hole and insert the part into the body. Then push the larva all the way, while simultaneously inserting the ball into the socket. After that, all that remains is to assemble the locking mechanism and tighten the housing with screws. When finished, check the operation of the ignition switch by turning the key to different positions.

The ejection spring from the old core needs to be moved to the new one

How the larva changes - video

The video demonstrates how to disassemble the mechanical part of the ignition switch of a VAZ 2170 (Lada Priora), but in design it does not differ from the elements installed on VAZ 2110-2112 cars.

As a rule, there is no need to change the entire ignition switch, although car enthusiasts often resort to this option to save time. The operation will take the technician at the service station no more than 20 minutes. Replacing it yourself will require more time, but you will be able to replace only the broken part (cylinder or contact group), thereby saving personal funds.

To start the VAZ 2110 engine, an ignition switch is used, the malfunction of which completely paralyzes the operation of the entire car. In addition to starting the engine, the ignition switch serves as additional protection against theft, since to activate it it is necessary to use a key that only the owner has. The lock also blocks the steering wheel from turning if there is no key in it, which prevents the car from being rolled or towed. Of course, the lock is not capable of providing complete protection, but it can detain intruders, which is sometimes decisive for saving the car.

The essence of the ignition switch is to close and open the contacts of the vehicle's electrical system. It is quite reliable and has a long service life, but sometimes needs to be replaced for a number of reasons:

- breakdown of the lock contact group;

- mechanical damage;

— loss of the ignition key.

If the reason for replacing the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110 is the loss of the key or damage to the lock during an attempt to steal, then there is no need to completely change the entire mechanism. You can simply purchase a cylinder - the part of the lock into which the key is directly inserted. The cylinder is sold together with a new set of ignition keys, which are necessary to turn it. This way, you can carry out repairs without a complete replacement, which will cost a little less.

When replacing the cylinder, please note that in this case the old key will be used for the doors and trunk, and a new one for the ignition. Therefore, if this is unacceptable, then you need to buy a new lock with an additional set of cylinders for the doors and trunk, which will allow you to open everything with one key.

If the reason for the replacement is a breakdown of the lock contact group, then a new cylinder will not help and the entire mechanism needs to be replaced. On average, the price of a new lock fluctuates around 800 - 1000 rubles, and with additional cylinders a little more. Replacement at a service station will cost on average another 500 rubles. But if the car doesn’t start, then you won’t be able to get to the service station on your own, then you can replace it yourself.

Lock replacement steps

And now about how to change the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110. The replacement process is quite simple and does not require special skills. The main thing is to do everything carefully so as not to confuse anything, because otherwise it will not be possible to start the engine. To work, you will need a simple set of tools, which can be found in the trunk of every VAZ 2110 owner. It includes:

- Phillips screwdriver;

- spanner or open-end wrench 10;

- pliers;

- hammer;

- thin chisel.

The first step is to disconnect the terminals on the battery to avoid a short circuit. After this, use a screwdriver to unscrew the screws holding the lower plastic steering column cover. After removing the lower and upper parts of the casing, the steering column will open, on which the lock is secured using a special bracket.

For ease of access to the bracket, you must also disconnect the left lever for switching turns. It can be removed in just a few seconds; to do this, you need to disconnect the plug with wires from it and pull the switch itself to the left in the direction of the driver's door.

The switch will come out through a special groove, so you don’t need to unscrew anything. The plug must be pulled out carefully so that the wires do not fall out, which will lead to their mixing.

Once you get rid of these parts, you can easily disconnect the ignition switch connector that connects the wires. Next comes more rough work, which consists of unscrewing the bolts that tighten the bracket with the lock on the steering column. Since, to increase security against theft, these bolts have a round head without edges that cannot be easily unscrewed, you will need to use cunning and force.

To do this, resting the head of the bolt with a chisel at an angle, you need to hit it. The angle must be set so that the bolt rotates counterclockwise. The chisel must be sharp so that it can cut into the surface of the bolt head and provide a reliable grip.

Since the limited space under the steering wheel does not allow for a good swing for impact, it will be easier to use a heavy hammer. The work is quite delicate and cannot be rushed, because you can miss and damage the plastic with a hammer blow. Once the bolts are loose, you can turn them using pliers.

After removing the old lock, a new one is installed in its place, complete with clamping bolts. These bolts have a breakaway head, so they should be tightened until it falls off. You should not use regular bolts, since they are easy to remove and it may take less time for attackers to steal a car.

Before installation, you must turn the key in the lock to the "I", which will allow the steering shaft locking clamp to enter the housing and not interfere with installation. After installing a new lock, you should not immediately tighten the bolts completely, since you need to make sure that its body is in the correct place and the locking mechanism is working.

What are autobuffers and why are they needed: let’s find out together? Read more in our article

Contract engine: what is it and how to choose.
Having returned the turning lever to its place, you can connect the terminals to the battery and check the functionality of the lock. If everything is done correctly, starting and shutting down the engine occurs without problems, then you can tighten the bolts until the head comes off and attach the steering column protective cover in place.

Replacing the ignition lock cylinder of a VAZ 2110

If it is necessary to replace only the cylinder, then you need to remove the lock from the steering column as described above. This process is a little more involved and time consuming, but can save you the cost of purchasing a new ignition switch.

On the side of the tension bracket, you need to unscrew the screws that connect the two halves of the lock body. After removing them, the body can be divided into two parts. The front part hides the larva, so it needs to be pulled out. The new cylinder does not include some small parts, such as a return spring and a locking ball, so they need to be transferred from the old one. The return spring is located in the lower part of the cylinder and is immediately invisible. After installation in the new cylinder, the spring must be cocked to the same position as it was in the old one.

Having fixed the new cylinder in the body identically to the old one, you can screw the back cover of the lock. When the mechanism is assembled, you need to check it by inserting the key and turning it to all positions. If the work is satisfactory, then you can install the lock in place, following the instructions as when replacing the lock.

When purchasing a separate cylinder, it does not come with breakaway bolts. Therefore, if you cannot get them, you can use M6 bolts 20 mm long. But in this case, they can always be quickly twisted, which will reduce the safety of your car. Of course, in the future, if you need to re-repair or replace the ignition switch, the work will be easier and the chisel will no longer be needed.

Video on how to replace the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110

Bottom line

Thus, for such a replacement there is no need to contact a car service, since everything can be done independently. The main thing is to approach this issue carefully so as not to confuse anything, especially when replacing the cylinder, since you need to rearrange several small parts, including a spring and a ball, which can be dropped and lost. And don’t forget to check the functionality of the mechanism before tightening the breakaway bolts.

Egnition lock- plays an important role in the “life” of the car, faulty ignition switch will not allow you to start the engine, therefore, it is unlikely that you will be able to drive far in such a car. Among other things, the ignition switch plays the role of protecting the car, like any lock it obeys only the one who has the key, however, nowadays even sophisticated anti-theft systems, let alone some simple ones, do not stop car thieves Ignition switch VAZ 2110 which is what we will be talking about today.

In fact, egnition lock- this is nothing more than a breaker that opens or closes the groups of contacts necessary for engine operation; a malfunction of this unit will increase the chances of your car being stolen, and will also create a lot of trouble for you at the most inopportune moment.

Replacing the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110 is done for the following reasons:

1. After ;
2. When a car owner has lost his key;
3. In case of failure of the contact group.

The car may not start due to poor contact, which can be checked quite easily. To do this, just disconnect the negative terminal on and remove the lower casing on the steering column. Then you need to disconnect the contacts and check using an ohmmeter. The contacts being tested must have zero resistance, but if this is not the case, it is absolutely necessary.

Replacing the VAZ ignition switch - cylinder or contact group

Replacing the ignition switch VAZ 2110 A new one is only necessary if it is completely out of order or has serious mechanical damage; in other cases, you can try to replace the failed parts of the lock. If you just need to restore egnition lock, for example, after they tried to steal a car or in the case when the key began to turn poorly in the keyhole, then most likely it will be possible to limit ourselves to only partial repairs, that is, replacing the ignition lock cylinder. Replacing failed elements is quite simple, and every motorist with minimal skills can handle it.

From the tool you will need:

1. Hammer;
2. Screwdriver;
3. Chisel;
4. The key is "10".

Replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 step by step instructions

The first thing that is necessary before changing the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110 is to turn off the power to the car. To do this, disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, then remove the steering column cover. In order to facilitate the procedure for replacing the cylinder, it is necessary to remove the ignition switch, then replace the faulty cylinder with a working one and put the lock back.

If we talk from a financial point of view, we can say that replacing the contact group is the most profitable. The disassembly principle is somewhat similar to the previous one; you will also have to remove the casing and lock. In order to avoid any unpleasant moments, I advise you to mark all the wires being removed when disconnecting the contact group; this will allow you to avoid confusion and save your time. Some cars have a retaining ring in the contact group, which you will need an awl to remove. After replacing the contact group, do not forget to return the retaining ring to its place.

Replacing the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110

To replace the ignition switch of a VAZ 2110 you also won’t need any super abilities, but if you don’t know some of the nuances, you can tinker a lot and get tired.

The ignition switch is replaced as follows:

1. When making a replacement, use special bolts with tear-off heads, which some motorists advise replacing with twenty-millimeter M6 bolts, citing the fact that these are easier to remove if necessary. ignition switch repair. Of course, this is so, but there is another side to the coin: by making it easier to disassemble the ignition switch, you yourself reduce the level of security and anti-theft protection of your car. 2. In order to loosen the bolts, you will need a chisel; when using it, you should be extremely careful so as not to accidentally cut off the bolt head;

3. Before replace the ignition switch VAZ 2110, insert the key into it and turn it to position “I”, this is necessary so that the latch locking the steering shaft mechanism enters the lock body.

4. After this, you can install the ignition switch on the steering column, and secure it with a bracket and tighten it with new mounting bolts.

5. After removing the key from the keyhole, be sure to make sure that the steering shaft locking mechanism is working. If the shaft lock does not work after a full turn of the steering wheel, you will need to adjust the position of the ignition switch on the steering column until the lock latch fits into the groove on the steering shaft. 6. Once the adjustment is complete and the locking mechanism is working, using a 10mm spanner, carefully tighten the bolts until their heads come off.

That's all I have, now I can say with confidence that replacing the ignition switch VAZ 2110- finished!