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What is the best decarbonization. Decarbonization of piston rings. “Hard” engine decarbonization

Why is engine decarbonization done?

When fuel burns in cylinders, persistent deposits and coke inevitably form, which:
· cover the surfaces of pistons and valves;
· clog the gaps in the piston bores and hinder the mobility of the oil scraper and compression piston rings (even to the point of their “stuck”);
· clog the oil channels in the pistons, preventing lubrication of the piston pin;
· the oil drainage channels in the piston skirt become clogged, reducing the efficiency of the oil scraper piston rings.

As a result, the efficiency of the compression and oil scraper rings decreases,
· compression in the cylinders is disrupted, and, as a result, engine power drops;
· vibrations appear, including due to the resulting difference in the compression of different cylinders;
· consumption of engine oil due to waste increases;
· fuel consumption increases;
· wear of the cylinder-piston group (CPG) is significantly accelerated.

Removing contaminants as a result of engine bracing can normalize the operation of the CPG and extend the engine's life.

Is it really worth decoking the engine?

The result of engine decarbonization is directly determined by three main factors:
· condition of the engine and “negligence” of deposits;
· the effectiveness of the product used;
· adherence to effective technology.

So what result can you expect when using a good product correctly? There are 3 answer options:
· improvement (compression equalization across cylinders, improved throttle response, normalized idle speed, reduced fuel and engine oil consumption, elimination of increased exhaust smoke);
· no noticeable result (compression may level out somewhat);
· deterioration (which is rare).

What determines the result of engine bracing? First of all, at what wear and stage of contamination the procedure is performed. Three stages of pollution can be distinguished:
· initial pollution, the negative impact of which is not clearly recorded;
· average level of contaminants, which already negatively affect the operation of the engine and, at the same time, are still susceptible to the effects of the product used;
· persistent contaminants that negatively affect engine operation and are resistant to the decarbonizing agent used.

The transition from one stage to another is individual and depends on the design of the engine, the oil used, spark plugs, and operating mode. We can carefully indicate that the middle stage is from 100 to 180 thousand km, the third stage is from 200 thousand km. and more.

The result of decarbonization will be noticeable in the second stage, but not noticeable in the first and second.

At the same time, the use of engine decarbonization at the first stage (initial contamination with an imperceptible effect) is most useful as a means of preventing the above-mentioned negative manifestations and extends the engine life with regular treatment.

Decoking at an advanced stage of pollution is practically useless - a major overhaul is required with disassembly of the internal combustion engine and mechanical cleaning of persistent deposits. In this case, you can only get the piston surface cleaned and, sometimes, some mobility of the compression rings. In this case, “stuck” oil scraper rings and completely clogged oil channels in the piston most likely will not be cleaned, which means the most significant goals will not be achieved.

It is also important to understand that the liquid for decarbonizing the engine does not have a restoring effect in case of severe wear of the metal friction pairs in the CPG, and is not capable of restoring the elasticity and efficiency of valve seals. Even with a positive cleaning effect on the mobility of the piston rings after treatment, it is unlikely that a significant reduction in engine oil consumption will be noticeable, because such consumption may be caused by other, more significant factors.

This procedure must be carried out both in engines of previous generations, designed for medium-quality motor oils, and in modern internal combustion engines with their minimal clearances, high temperatures and loaded operating conditions.

What result of engine decarbonization can you expect?

Engine decarbonization with an effective formula of active components, performed in a timely and regular manner:

  • Safely cleans the surface of the piston, piston rings, surface of the combustion chamber and valves from carbon deposits;
  • cleans the lubrication and oil drain channels from contaminants in the piston;
  • normalizes and equalizes compression in the cylinders;
  • significantly increases engine life.
As a result, a clearly felt and recorded result appears:
  • the power characteristics of the engine and the dynamic characteristics of the car are restored;
  • engine oil consumption and exhaust smoke are reduced;
  • Fuel consumption is slightly reduced;
  • the engine runs smoother and quieter.
It is also important to remember that the final normalization of engine operation after the procedures may not be achieved immediately, but after some time of operation (after 200-300 km), after the final removal of the cleaning fluid and the release of the remaining softened deposits, the movement of the engine oil is restored.

How often to decarbonize the engine

Existing formulations recommend decoking the engine every 20-25 thousand kilometers, i.e. immediately before every second maintenance with engine oil change. If the equipment operates in difficult conditions, for which its manufacturer recommends shortening oil change intervals, then, accordingly, engine bracing must be carried out at intervals of 10-15 thousand kilometers.

Instructions for engine decarbonization

Processing must be carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. In general, the process of decoking an engine with your own hands is as follows:

  • warm up the engine to operating temperature (at least 70 degrees Celsius);
  • disconnect the ignition system (for example, disconnect the ignition coil terminal or center wire);
  • turn off the electric fuel pump (by removing the corresponding fuse);
  • remove spark plugs (glow plugs);
  • set the pistons to a position close to the middle one by turning the crankshaft by the pulley nut or by the drive wheel raised by a jack with the last gear of the manual transmission engaged, or try to “get there” with several attempts by turning on the starter (the position of the pistons is determined by inserting sticks of suitable length into the holes for the spark plugs);
  • using a syringe with an extension flexible tube, pour an equal amount of engine decarbonization fluid into the cylinders;
  • screw in the spark plugs at least a few turns of thread to create a “steam bath” in the cylinders (from this stage you can use used but serviceable spark plugs from garage stock);
  • pause according to the product manufacturer’s instructions;
  • During the pause, periodically move the pistons slightly, rotating the crankshaft by 10-15 degrees 5 times in one direction or the other using the above methods to apply forces to the piston rings, which should facilitate the penetration of liquid into contaminants, the release of the rings from their “stagnation” and release of contaminants from the grooves in the pistons;
  • unscrew the spark plugs;
  • remove any remaining dirty liquid from the cylinders by pumping them out using a flexible tube and syringe;
  • add 1-2 cm3 of engine oil to each cylinder (in the area of ​​the piston rings) with a separate syringe to restore the washed off oil film in order to ensure normal compression to facilitate engine starting;
  • cover the holes for the candles with thick cloth to catch splashes;
  • turn on the ignition and rotate the engine shaft 2-3 times for 5 seconds;
  • remove fabric and drips, paying special attention to the spark plug wells;
  • screw in used spark plugs (glow plugs) from garage stock, connect the ignition system and electric fuel pump;
  • start the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes until it reaches operating temperature (in this case, short-term smoke may occur due to the burnout of drug residues and deposits);
  • fill in the engine quick flush preparation, if its use is recommended by the manufacturer of the decarbonizing fluid, let the engine run according to the instructions, turn off the internal combustion engine;
  • replace the engine oil and oil filter;
  • replace the spark plugs with the main ones (immediately or, better yet, after 200-300 km).
The bracing of a diesel engine is practically no different from the one shown, except that, taking into account the design, it is sometimes better to unscrew the injection nozzles rather than the glow plugs in order to work through the holes for them.

Decarbonizing an engine with your own hands is not very difficult, as can be seen from the description. However, it is still necessary to have minimal metalworking skills and knowledge of the design.

Possible difficulties and negative consequences of engine decarbonization

Negative results with the correct selection of products and adherence to technology are usually determined by excessive wear. Removed deposits can open up larger gaps and reduce compression in the cylinders, increasing noise.

After treatment, difficulties may arise when starting the engine for the first time due to the following reasons:
· residual liquid in the cylinders (it is recommended to remove them by suction using a syringe with a flexible hose);
· washing off the oil film that provides the necessary compression (it is recommended to add very little motor oil to the cylinders in the area of ​​the piston rings - just a really small amount, so as not to “kill” the engine with water hammer when starting, since oil as a liquid does not compress);
· a weak battery, the charge of which was used for cranking during the process (before processing, it is recommended to check the battery, charge it if necessary, or ensure that you have a charger or backup battery).

Increased smoking immediately after the first start-up is not actually a negative consequence, because passes quickly.

Of course, a number of difficulties can be caused by violations of the technology recommended by the manufacturer and errors during the work - inattention when connecting disconnected wires, etc.

Separately, please note that during processing, the aggressive decarbonizer liquid penetrates the engine crankcase and mixes with the engine oil. You cannot operate a car with such a mixture, because... this is fraught with negative consequences. Manufacturers of the products directly indicate this in the instructions. Here lies a practical nuance: the procedure for direct decoking of the engine takes a long time; in reality, many car owners do not have the opportunity to spend all this time with the car in an on-site service center, where they can immediately perform a subsequent oil change. And the question arises: is it possible to directly straighten the bracing in a place convenient for yourself (in front of the house or in your garage), and then drive the car to a service station for an oil change? Taking into account the fact that in the instructions for some drugs, manufacturers recommend warming up the engine to operating temperature during the flushing stage after bracing, we can make a reasonable conclusion that a short haul is possible without negative consequences. But it is still impossible to operate the car and carry out long hauls without changing the oil after treatment.

Conclusion

Timely periodic decoking of the engine may not be noticeable by visible signs, but when using effective preparations it is an effective means of cleaning continuously accumulating contaminants and a real way to extend the life of the internal combustion engine and ensure its normal operation. It is recommended to carry out the treatment approximately before every second maintenance with an engine oil change.

Engine decarbonization gives a visible effect only when the contaminants have already negatively affected the operation of the engine, but they are still malleable and can be removed with the chosen product.

Decoking of the engine does not restore excessive wear of the cylinder-piston group parts, therefore, in case of critical wear and stuck piston rings, it is more reasonable to give preference to a major overhaul with mechanical cleaning of persistent contaminants on those parts that can still be used.

Problems associated with the appearance of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber of a car are the result of diagnostics and repairs not carried out in a timely manner, and decarbonization not carried out.

For example, the driver was not alerted by blue smoke from the exhaust pipe. The piston rings, worn down to holes, began to leak oil, which, when burned, covered everything with soot. What to do? Let's figure it out.

What is decarbonization?

Decoking is the cleaning of the engine combustion chamber from carbon deposits and coke. This is done using special chemicals or various solvents.

It is better to periodically decarbonize the engine as a preventive measure, because emergency removal of carbon deposits already falls into the category of global engine repair.

The fact is that it is necessary to eliminate not only coke, but also the cause of its occurrence. The most common of them is described above. However, the engine gets dirty even in the absence of problems - the fuel also burns with all the consequences.

Engine cleaning methods

If there is no serious problem, then you can do preventive decarbonization yourself. To do this, you need to add the selected liquid to the engine oil shortly before it is completely replaced (in order to drain the deposits along with the oil). You can add various additives to the fuel, it all depends on the specific purpose.

In general, all decarbonization methods are divided into 2 types:

  • Soft method. The liquid is added directly to the oil. To do this, use products designed for gentle cleaning. Rude ones, in this case, can do more harm than good. The method is good for prevention, but completely unsuitable for removing serious contaminants. At best, it will help clean the lower piston rings, which become dirty first. The most popular products include the Gzox and Kangaroo brands. They will cost around 500 rubles.
  • Hard method. Aggressive cleaning agents are poured inside through the spark plug holes or injectors directly into the combustion chamber. This method is suitable for removing serious deposits of carbon deposits. It cleans the piston well, as well as the chamber itself. The engine must be warmed up before using this method. After filling the liquid, it is recommended to lightly string the spark plugs to slow down the cooling of the engine. For the best result, you need to keep the liquid inside for from half an hour to half a day. It all depends on the manufacturer's recommendations. And finally, the outcome of “hard” treatment VERY depends on the quality of the chemistry used. After all, it’s not for nothing that this method is called hard.

Carbon removers

There is a fairly large selection of specialized products on the market. They are reliable and are exactly the means for decoking. For comparison, the same Dimexide (a very popular remedy) is a medicine that simply, in combination, can help with this problem.

But all special equipment has one big disadvantage - the high price.

Therefore, many car enthusiasts choose products “from what they had.” The above-mentioned Dimexide and descaling agents, etc. are also used. They are cheap and almost always at hand, but this kind of additive is a frankly old-fashioned method, more suitable for cars of the same type.

Let's take a closer look at the most popular means and features of their use:

  1. Mitsubishi Shumma. It is rightfully considered one of the best means for removing serious stains. This is what sports car manufacturers recommend. It is classified as aggressive, so it must be used strictly according to the instructions. But even Schumma cannot be a 100% panacea - there are situations when it can cause harm. For example, if the amount of carbon deposits in the chamber exceeds all permissible limits and the rings have already sagged. In this case, with an increase in the volume of the chamber (after removing the muck from there), the dead rings will ensure a decrease in compression and the engine will simply lose power. Therefore, before using any harsh cleaning product, you need to do a complete engine diagnostics.
  2. Gzox. According to the manufacturer, the coverage area of ​​this product is the injectors and carburetor. Don't let this fool you - it is quite suitable for gentle cleaning of rings. Taking into account the specifics, Gzox is added to the oil. It’s better not to expect miracles, but it will do for prevention.

Domestic analogues

  1. Lavr ML Domestic chemicals recommended for use only as a last resort. Despite creating an extremely harsh environment inside the engine, it copes poorly with carbon deposits - at best, it liquefies it. When cleaning heavy dirt, the camera is practically useless. But it cleans oil scraper rings quite well. After use, changing the oil is simply vital. It is better to find a higher quality analogue.
  2. Edial. A relatively good hybrid engine decarbonizer. It is a fuel additive, which is why it falls into the category of soft agents. Unlike most analogues, it works while driving. It effectively copes with medium-sized stains, but in severe cases (when the rings are already stuck) it is, alas, unable to help. Before adding, you need to make sure the tank is at least half full. This is necessary for a more uniform distribution of the liquid and its subsequent production.
  3. Dimexide. Decarbonizing an engine with dimexide is a very risky business. On the one hand, it is able to remove all carbon deposits cleanly, but on the other hand, it corrodes everything it touches. Paint, hands - all this should be protected as much as possible. Only works when hot. To avoid crystallization of the substance, when cooling the engine, it is necessary to immediately pump it out. If you have the courage to flush the combustion chamber with it, then be prepared for a strong stench that will poison you and those around you from the exhaust pipe for a long time. After use, be sure to change the oil and rinse the engine with a special lubricant for flushing.
  4. Slab cleaner. Know-how among car enthusiasts, but it has some effectiveness. But only when cleaning individual parts. That is, the motor will have to be disassembled first. It is ineffective as a decoking agent, but it will be possible to clean the pistons. It is dangerous for the skin, so do not forget about gloves and other precautions.

Engine decarbonization— removing carbon deposits from the piston rings and piston grooves so that the rings gain “mobility” and the engine stops “eating” oil. It also involves cleaning the valves and walls of the engine combustion chamber from carbon deposits to eliminate detonation and misfires. Decarbonization can be done through oil, fuel and spark plug holes using various preparations. All these methods differ in the effectiveness of cleaning from soot and labor intensity.
This article describes different ways to effectively combat engine carbon deposits, the pros and cons of these engine decarbonization options, as well as the causes and areas of carbon formation.

In our experience, in 95% of cases, decarbonization helps to avoid “overhaul”, but sometimes it, on the contrary, leads to engine repair (“oil consumption” increases sharply). This may be due to excessive wear of the CPG parts (nothing can be changed here), or the decarbonization itself was carried out incorrectly (everything is in your hands here). Therefore, be careful when choosing a means and method for decarbonizing the engine!!!

When coked, the rings can be in different states: recessed into the piston grooves (cemented in carbon deposits) or squeezed out of the piston grooves by carbon deposits trapped between the piston and the ring. The first version of coking is the simplest and decoking, removing carbon deposits, allows the rings to gain mobility and they begin to remove oil from the walls of the liner. In the second case, carbon deposits squeezing the rings out of the piston grooves increases their friction against the walls of the liner and the rings quickly wear off and decarbonization, clearing the piston grooves of carbon deposits, recesses the rings into the depths of the grooves and increases the gap between the ring and the liner wall, as a result of which the “oil burner” can grow.

All methods for decoking engine piston rings can be divided into 3 types: “soft” decarbonization, “hard” and in motion.

“Soft” engine decarbonization

Soft decoking of piston rings - cleaning the piston group from carbon deposits through the engine oil system. A cleaning agent (usually “flushing the oil system with the effect of decoking the rings”) is poured into the engine oil 100-200 km before changing it, and until the oil change itself, the engine must be operated in a gentle mode, avoiding operation at maximum speed. The composition of the “soft” decarbonizer should wash away carbon deposits from the lower oil scraper rings (which are most often subject to “stacking” or coking) and piston grooves. Typically, flushing oil is used for this, as well as 5 or 7 minutes.

The main disadvantage of conventional “soft” decarbonizers: with their help it is not possible to clear carbon deposits from either the combustion chamber or the engine valves. Basically, these are traditional engine oil system flushing fluids, with the addition of cleaning components to remove carbon deposits. This method can be used not in clinical cases of engine contamination, but as a preventative measure at every oil change.

Recently, engine decarbonization with dimexide has been gaining popularity. Mainly due to the low cost of the drug (at the pharmacy it costs 50-70 rubles per bottle) and the quality of dissolving carbon deposits in the engine oil system. Dimexide is poured into the oil neck at the rate of 100 ml per 1 liter of engine oil. This method of decarbonization has two disadvantages: it is necessary to clean the pan of paint so that the oil intake screen does not clog (since the paint flakes off and can clog the oil intake screen, cutting off the oil supply to the pump) and it is necessary to rinse the oil system thoroughly (usually 2 times with flushing oil) after draining the dimeside with the old oil. Total costs increase to 1000 rubles, and a lot of time will have to be allocated for such decarbonization.

“Soft” cleaning of the engine from carbon deposits also includes our oil additive ACTIVE PROTECTION EDIAL. Its addition to engine oil allows thoroughly clean the piston rings and grooves from carbon deposits and varnishes (no worse than DIMEXIDE), Usually changes from the use of the additive become noticeable after 10-15 minutes at idle and driving up to 50 km. Its main difference from other “soft” competitors: NO NEED TO CHANGE OIL after use (the engine oil is changed as planned). Our additive is poured into both “fresh” and “old” oil and is used until the end of the oil’s service life. It is advisable for the car to drive at least 300 km on this oil for the additive to work in full force. Its additional advantage is the subsequent protection of friction pairs from wear and increased oil resistance to waste.

“Hard” engine decarbonization

Hard decarbonization of rings or old "grandfather's method" more common. The essence of this method is quite simple: an aggressive liquid is poured into the combustion chamber through the nozzle or spark plug holes, which corrodes and softens the carbon deposits on the rings and the piston bottom.

METHOD OF APPLICATION: the car is placed horizontally, the engine is warmed up to operating temperature, after which the ignition is turned off and the spark plugs are unscrewed or the injectors are removed. By turning the crankshaft, use a wire or a screwdriver to set the pistons to a position close to the middle. Anti-coke (LAUREL, MITSUBISHI SHUMA, GREENOL, DIMEXIDE, XADO or FENOM) is poured into each cylinder and left there for a certain time - from 20 minutes to 12 hours to soften the carbon (depending on the manufacturer of such preparations). It is necessary to warm up the engine to intensify the procedure; a “steam bath” effect is created, so the carbon deposits are better “acidified” and softened.

During such decoking, the spark plug wells are closed, lightly filling the spark plugs so that the engine does not cool down quickly, and the ignition is turned off. After a certain time has passed, the live spark plugs are unscrewed, and by cranking the crankshaft with the starter, all cleaning liquid is removed from the combustion chamber, often using a syringe with a straw for this. This is the one that did not leak through the piston rings into the crankcase. Cover the spark plug holes with a rag to prevent dirt from flying out of the holes and getting all over the engine compartment. Then tighten the spark plugs, start the engine and let it run at variable speeds or drive for about 50 km. Next, the most important thing: it is required NECESSARILY change oil and spark plugs.

This technique is now quite actively used both at service stations and by car owners on their own.

Disadvantages of “hard” decarbonization

The effectiveness of this method depends on the quality of the anticoke used (in Soviet times, acetone or a mixture of kerosene and acetone in equal proportions was usually used), as well as on the type of engine being serviced. Often it is possible to remove only carbon deposits on which the liquid of the cleaning solvent has fallen (i.e., the top of the piston and rings), and the walls of the combustion chamber and valve are almost not cleaned. Recently, MITSUBISHI SHUMA has been gaining popularity, because... it does not fall down when injected into the combustion chamber, but foaming fills its entire volume and cleans the entire combustion chamber, including its upper part and valves.

This chemical is quite toxic and if you use it in a garage you can be poisoned by toxic fumes. In winter, the quality of soot dissolution is greatly affected by the rapid cooling of the engine, and even in the cold, unscrewing spark plugs or removing injectors is not a pleasant task.

It is not clear how much solvent should be poured into each cylinder to achieve the best result, because... the engines are different, have different combustion chamber volumes and piston diameters, but the instructions for use are the same for all engines (a 2.5 liter engine and a 1.3 liter engine have the same number of pistons). If you pour too much, there is a possibility that a large amount of the drug will seep into the oil and destroy the rubber seals; if you pour too little, you may not really clean anything.

The decarbonizing agent GREENOL has a particularly destructive effect. Within an hour after being poured into the combustion chamber, it seeps through the rings into the crankcase and begins to peel off the paint from the pan. Therefore, this decarbonization is best used to clean parts from carbon deposits of an already disassembled engine, dipping the parts into a bath with GREENOL, there is no competition here. By the way, the developers of this decarbonization themselves show videos specifically about cleaning the pistons and removing them from the engine.

Often, after being poured into the combustion chamber, the decoking agent quickly seeps into the engine crankcase (through the ring locks) and does not perform its functions of cleaning the piston grooves and drainage holes, not to mention the walls of the combustion chamber.

It is quite difficult to set the pistons to the middle position on your own; at least one assistant will be required for this operation. If the car has an automatic transmission (you can’t push it back and forth), then to carry out decarbonization you will need a lift or jack to raise the drive wheels.

Decarbonization of a boxer engine

The design of the engine also greatly influences the cleaning of carbon deposits. Let’s say you need to decoke a SUBARU car with a boxer engine: when you lift the hood, it’s not clear where the spark plugs are located, but you still need to get to them, unscrew them and try to pour decoke into the combustion chamber. Boxer engines are horizontal and the cleaner will flow out of the combustion chamber while you screw the spark plugs into place. Setting the pistons to the middle position on a boxer engine is completely problematic, plus decarbonization will only clean the lower half of the combustion chamber, and accordingly the lower segment of the rings. Although the effect of a “steam bath” is created, it is still better when the soot is completely filled with the reagent than when it decomposes under steam.

Decarbonization of a V-engine

The same can be said about multi-cylinder V-shaped engines, where access to spark plugs or injectors is also made difficult by attached units. Plus the pistons are tilted, decarbonization will have an uneven effect on the carbon deposits, which means more drug will be needed to dissolve the carbon deposits. Cleaning the rings of diesel engines using this method is generally problematic. First you need to get to the injectors (the same mounted units), then remove them, and this often requires special pullers or injector wrenches. After removing the injectors, you should change the copper sealing washers (they are no longer suitable for reuse), which must first be purchased, which means a trip to a specialized store, where they are not always in stock.

Another problem: the formation of scuffs on the liner. When “hard” cleaning of the engine from carbon deposits occurs, the oil is washed out from the cylinder wall with a cleaning agent and the first engine start is carried out “dry”, i.e. the rings rub against the liner without oil, which leads to additional scuffing on the liner and sudden wear of the piston rings.

You will definitely need to change the engine oil, because... part of the drug penetrates the crankcase through the rings and mixes with the oil, which changes its properties and will negatively affect rubber seals and oil seals. The spark plugs usually also need to be replaced.

Decarbonization of rings while moving through fuel

Decarbonization of the engine through fuel - burning off carbon deposits while driving. This the simplest, but no less effective way to combat soot. The essence of the method is the use of special additives in the fuel to combat carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. Ours is still here DECAKER EDIALhas no analogues on the auto chemical market. Cleaning the engine using our additive is the simplest, least labor-intensive and budget-friendly way. To implement it, you DO NOT require special skills, tools or a lot of time to remove and install spark plugs or injectors. The administration of the drug will take you no more than a minute.

Decarbonizing EDIAL is poured into the car tank and, together with the fuel, enters the combustion chamber. When the engine is running, additive particles (entering the combustion chamber with fuel) penetrate into the thickness of soot and varnish deposits and completely burn them out, and the residues are removed through the exhaust system. A significant difference between our engine cleaning method and others is also that carbon burns out faster at increased loads and speeds. Those. The vehicle is operated without restrictions on load, in the usual driving manner, and driving on the highway significantly helps to remove carbon deposits.

Decarbonization of oil scraper rings

The most problematic area in piston rings is the oil rings. The only effective way to clean them is to increase the exposure time to carbon deposits. It is most effective to use 2 additives simultaneously: ACTIVE PROTECTION into the engine oil and DECOKING EDIAL into car fuel. Our products will gently clean the piston grooves of carbon deposits, freeing the rings. If the rings do not “come to life” immediately, then over the course of a run of up to 300 km, the oil consumption will drop sharply or stop completely.

If the oil consumption for waste was about 1 liter per 1000 km, then 100% achievement of the result may not be possible, because (statistically) oil scraper rings can simply be worn out. Also, turbocharged VAG engines are more difficult to decarbonize (the drainage holes for draining oil from the piston groove into the crankcase are poorly cleaned. Especially turbocharged Volkswagens (1.8 liters) suffer from this. Here we can advise using the complex several times or after using our complex in oil and fuel “ hard" decoking (NOISE) and change the engine oil. This should help.

Valve decarbonization

If the car is operated mainly in urban conditions (low speeds and frequent idling), then the valves quickly become overgrown with carbon deposits. Our decoking into EDIAL fuel effectively cleans carbon deposits on the intake valves, ensuring tightness in the valve-seat pair. This eliminates misfires and improves engine dynamics and efficiency.

BEST RING DECOKING

If you decide to do the decarbonization yourself and don’t want to unscrew the spark plugs or remove the injectors, then here are our recommendations. When the engine oil consumption is more than 0.5 liters per 1000 km, it is very effective to use it in combination (at the same time). DECOKING EDIAL(pouring it into the car tank) and ACTIVE ENGINE PROTECTION EDIAL(pouring it into the engine oil). This is the best way to remove carbon deposits from the engine rings and clean the combustion chamber and valves. On a V-shaped engine, it is effective to pour 2 bottles of ACTIVE PROTECTION into the engine oil system.

Poured into oil for 15-20 minutes of engine operation, it will clean and “revive” the engine rings, and a decarbonizer poured into the tank of the car will carefully burn out all the carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. We especially recommend this comprehensive approach to motorists who only travel around the city.

At the same time, our method of cleaning the engine EDIAL has a number of significant advantages over other competitors on the market:

    Quick application of the drug (fill the car tank with engine oil and you’re done!!!).

    After cleaning the engine from carbon deposits, there is no need to change the engine oil, since the products of decomposition and combustion of carbon deposits and varnish deposits are removed through the vehicle’s exhaust system, and therefore do not leak into the crankcase and do not affect the seals. Our auto chemicals can be used at any time convenient for the car owner.

    Engine piston rings are well cleaned.

    It perfectly cleans carbon deposits from combustion chamber parts, including intake and exhaust valves, their seats and spark plugs, increasing their service life.

    Thanks to effective compression restoration, it reduces fuel and oil consumption due to waste, increases engine power and throttle response.

    Protective films are created on the surfaces of combustion chamber parts and friction pairs in the engine to prevent the appearance of carbon deposits. These films reduce subsequent ring coking by reducing contact temperatures in the combustion chamber and, consequently, reducing the destruction of oil molecules.

  • EDIAL additives (complex use in oil and fuel) combine the ability to gently act on coked piston rings as a “soft” method of decoking and complete cleansing of combustion chamber parts from carbon deposits, which is not always achievable with the “hard” method of engine decoking.
AND THE MOST IMPORTANT THING:

Any decarbonization is good as prevention!!!
It's like human oral hygiene. You brush your teeth constantly, removing “dental plaque.” Likewise, decarbonization should be used on the engine periodically as a preventive measure. As soon as the “oil guzzler” appears, decarbonize it so that the rings (especially oil scraper rings) do not wear out. Do not bring the coking of the engine to a critical state, when only replacing the rings can “reanimate” the engine. This is why our additives have been developed, which are very simple and effective to use.

Causes of carbon deposits in the engine

Running the engine on low-quality fuel or oil leads to increased formation of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber. The bottom and walls of the piston, as well as the walls of the combustion chamber, become overgrown with soot and carbon deposits from unburned fuel. The valves become overgrown with carbon deposits, and in some cases they simply burn out. The piston rings coke and lose mobility, the walls of the combustion chamber become overgrown with carbon deposits, impairing heat dissipation. The formation of soot is also facilitated by the presence of additives in the fuel, decomposition and oxidation of the oil entering the combustion chamber. Frequent driving on a cold engine with a light load, driving at low speeds, standing in traffic jams, winter driving - all this contributes to the intense formation of carbon deposits on the surfaces of combustion chamber parts.

A large amount of carbon deposits (reducing the volume of the combustion chamber) leads to detonation. Detonation reduces engine power, increases friction losses and wear of engine parts. In addition, the flow areas of the intake and exhaust valves are reduced (deterioration of mixture formation and increase in fuel consumption). Carbon deposits trapped under the valve cause it to not fit tightly into the seat, causing the valve to burn out over time. Loose closing of the valves also leads to a significant drop in compression, resulting in a loss of engine power.

Lately, be very careful when purchasing engine oil. Often, modern EURO5 and 4 engines are filled with oils designed for engines of the EURO3 toxicity class. Inadequacy of the oils used leads to oil burnout in the combustion chamber and coking of the rings, because motor oils for EURO5 engines can withstand temperatures up to +110-115 degrees, and motor oils of EURO3 class only 90 degrees. Therefore, if you pour such oil into a modern engine, it will burn out.

Carbon formation zones

A thick layer of carbon deposits on the valves significantly impairs engine performance. Deposits on the back of the intake valve plate are especially dangerous: they act like a sponge and absorb fuel. The engine is forced to run on a lean mixture. The result is possible detonation combustion of the fuel mixture and engine damage.

carbon deposits on engine rings

Medium-temperature deposits - varnishes - form in the grooves of the piston rings, on the side surface of the piston and on the cylinder walls. Carbon deposits and varnish on the top edge of the piston accelerate cylinder wear. The varnish in the piston grooves and the crumbled carbon deposits that get there make the piston rings immobile, reducing compression; oil consumption begins to increase "for waste". When deposits completely fill the gap between the piston groove and the ring, the ring bursts, squeezing it out. The pressure on the cylinder walls increases sharply, wear of the liner and rings accelerates, and scuffing of the liner walls may even occur. Through the “stagnant” rings, the breakthrough of gases into the crankcase, and oil into the combustion chamber, increases. This further increases the formation of varnish and carbon deposits.

All this leads to a drop in compression in the cylinders, a decrease in engine power, poor starting, excessive consumption of fuel and oil, and an increase in exhaust gas toxicity. If there is heavy carbon deposits, the engine may “auto-start” after stopping. Because The volume of the combustion chamber decreases noticeably and the carbon particles, continuing to smolder, ignite the fuel and the engine continues to operate.

Reasons for oil getting into the combustion chamber

Oil enters the combustion chamber in two ways:
1. From the walls of the liner, because the oil scraper rings cannot remove it perfectly clean.
2. Oil is washed away from the intake valve stems by the flow of the fuel mixture sucked into the cylinders.
These are only the main ways oil gets into the cylinders on “healthy” and new engines. And when the car’s mileage exceeds 100,000 km and you notice that adding oil to the required level has become more frequent, and smoke with a specific odor begins to appear from the muffler, it means that other elements have become involved in adding oil to the combustion chambers.

An experienced engine mechanic will determine exactly what is causing the smoke and oil consumption based on the condition of the spark plugs. There are two main culprits:
I — oil reflective caps valves Only replacing them will help here, there are no other options. ( Signs of oil leakage in reflective caps:
1. Smoke from the exhaust pipe during gas transfer.
2. The presence of oil on the threaded part of the spark plugs (“wet” thread on the spark plugs).

II - cylinder-piston group(rings, pistons, cylinders). There are already possible solutions to the problem. And if you are offered to overhaul the engine and replace the rings, there is no need to rush. In most cases, decarbonizing the engine helps and the service life increases by 50-100 thousand km, or even more.

All of our additives for decarbonization can be purchased from our partners (their contacts are listed on the WHERE TO BUY page. If our partner is not in your place of residence, we can send our auto chemicals from Moscow by mail (prepayment only) or SDEK (payment upon receipt at the point of issue ) Our partners send cash on delivery by mail, their contacts are listed on our website.

During engine operation, heavy carbon deposits may form on the cylinder rings. This happens for two main reasons: the use of low-quality fuel or oil getting into the combustion chamber. In small amounts, deposits have virtually no effect on the performance of the engine. Subsequently, drivers may encounter the following problems:

  • reduction in engine power;
  • reduction of compression;
  • the appearance of detonation;
  • problems with starting;
  • the gas pedal has become less sensitive;
  • increased engine oil consumption;
  • the appearance of bluish smoke from the exhaust pipe;
  • oil deposits on spark plugs.

All these signs indicate the need to clean the rings. In the worst situations, rings and even pistons can become deformed due to detonation. Decarbonizing piston rings with your own hands is not very difficult. On the market you can find dozens of special products for removing deposits.

Causes of coking

In rare cases, low-quality fuel becomes a source of excessive coking. The content of a high percentage of impurities leads to incomplete combustion of the mixture, gradually forming a layer of soot. If you use high-quality fuel, then there is only one reason - oil getting into the cylinders. It (unlike the fuel-air mixture) does not burn completely, which leads to coking.

Why oil gets into the cylinders is a separate issue that car owners urgently need to resolve. Decarbonization is the same preventive measure as brushing your teeth. If you do not want to do it regularly, then you need to eliminate the cause of the soot. Oil leakage can occur for the following reasons:

  • Natural wear and tear or damage. The lower oil scraper ring will not be able to remove excess oil from the cylinder mirror, which is why more and more composition will gradually accumulate in the grooves. It will burn, leaving a black residue.
  • Worn or damaged valve stem seals, which are necessary to remove excess.
  • Small scratches or deformations on the cylinder bore, in which oil can accumulate.
  • Using low quality or old oil. Over time, the composition loses its fluidity characteristics, which makes it difficult to remove residues from the mirror.

After the operation, you can see for yourself whether decarbonizing the piston rings helps. Compression should be restored, detonation should disappear, the car will be more “spirited and alert to the explosion.” Next, it is necessary to consider the existing decarbonization methods and how they are performed.

Methods for decoking piston rings

The driver can perform decarbonization in one of two ways: with or without disassembling the engine. The latter option involves the use of various means. Next we will talk about the advantages and disadvantages of each of these methods.

Disassembly of the unit and complete cleaning

This method is the most effective and time-consuming method. As a rule, it is used only in extreme cases when no other remedy has helped. The advantages are obvious: it is possible to remove all deposits with one hundred percent probability, thoroughly cleaning every square centimeter of the surface. Also, during disassembly, you can evaluate the condition of the piston rings, and, if necessary, naturally, replace them.

The problem is the complexity of the operation. Not all drivers are able to disassemble and then correctly reassemble the engine. You will have to contact specialized technical centers and pay for such services. To avoid this, do not allow coking to reach a critical level. When the first signs appear, use various special means.

Decarbonization with water

An affordable method without any investment. To do this, you will need to prepare distilled water in a bottle, a dropper and a hose. Some motorists also recommend diluting 100 milliliters of hydrogen peroxide with 5 liters of water to improve the effect. It is better to perform flushing using this method before changing the oil, since some of the carbon deposits will end up in the old oil.

  1. Make a hole in the bottle cap and then insert one end of the dropper (with the cylinder).
  2. We connect the other end to the hole in the intake manifold, and it is necessary to adjust the flow through a special regulator on the dropper. Achieve 2-3 drops per second.
  3. Start the engine. Bring it up to 2000 rpm.
  4. “Pump” in this way from 1.5 to 3 liters of solution.

Thick white smoke may come out of the exhaust pipe. This means that the carbon deposits have begun to gradually flake off and be removed. The method requires some skill. By supplying too much water, you risk causing the motor to experience water hammer, which will completely disable it. The disadvantage of this method is also its duration, because decarbonization with water can take several hours.

Decarbonization with kerosene

When the coke layer is large enough, you can try using kerosene. Drivers should mix kerosene and acetone in equal proportions. Additionally, you can add oil so that the mixture lasts longer in the cylinder. This procedure must be carried out before changing the engine oil (similar to the previous method).

Follow these instructions:

  1. Remove all spark plugs.
  2. Place the cylinders in one line. Pour 100 milliliters of the mixture into each of them.
  3. Put the candles back in place. Leave the car for 8+ hours.
  4. Unscrew the spark plugs and place a rag on the wells.
  5. Run the starter so that the remaining solution comes out.
  6. Install the candles. Take a ride by car. As a rule, in the first 15 kilometers, carbon decarbonization and carbon removal occurs through the exhaust.

Only after this can you completely change the oil. The presented methods require virtually no investment. They allow you to decarbonize the piston rings without disassembling the engine.

The methods described above have one general rule - the oil should be changed immediately after their implementation. If you don’t want to do this, you can use a number of additives for gasoline or diesel. The main function of such additives is to remove combustion products with a special chemical composition. It enters the cylinder along with the fuel, reducing carbon deposits and removing what is already there.

The advantages of additives include:

  • ease of use (just pour in the additive);
  • no need to dismantle spark plugs or change oil;
  • a protective film appears on the cylinders.

The technique is only suitable for removing small amounts of carbon deposits (in more severe situations, additives will be powerless). The disadvantage is low performance. You will feel the effect only after several hundred or thousand kilometers.

TOP 5 best decarbonizers

If money is not a problem, then it is better to buy a specialized product for decarbonizing piston rings. On the market you can find products costing from several hundred to thousands of rubles. It is impossible to definitively determine the best product for decarbonizing piston rings, so you will have to use personal trials to find the most suitable one for your case. Next, 5 popular and in-demand products will be presented.

Mitsubishi Shumma Engine Conditioner

First-class product made in Japan. Many craftsmen and mechanics prefer it. It is a petroleum based solvent. Contains ethylene glycol and mono-ethyl ether. Shumma is a composition from the category of hard decarbonizers. It is developed for engines with direct injection, but can also be used in other types of internal combustion engines. Input into the cylinders is carried out through a tube. Next, you need to keep the composition for 3 to 5 hours. An important advantage is that Shumma Engine Conditioner is non-aggressive to valve stem seals. The downside is that it is one of the most expensive products.

GZox Injection

Another Japanese product. It is actively used for cleaning carburetors and injectors, while it decarbonizes the rings. GZox contains petroleum solvent and ethylene glycol. It has a gentle effect on the piston, while additionally creating a protective film. It is also allowed to use the product as a preventive measure every 10 thousand kilometers. It removes carbon deposits perfectly, but it cannot decarbonize oil channels. GZox Injection is a product in the mid-price category, so it is easier to find on the shelves of auto stores than Shumma.

Kangaroo ICC300

Designed in Korea. It is not a decarbonizer, although it copes with this task perfectly. It is recommended to use it to remove carbon deposits after the car has been parked for a long time. ICC300 is water-based and is characterized by high solubility in oil. The composition includes 3-methyl-3-methoxybutanol, lauryl demethylamine oxide, 2-butoxyethanol. It can only be used on a warm engine. To achieve the best result, the product should act on the cylinders for at least 12 hours. The affordable price makes this composition extremely popular. There is only one drawback - a weak effect at room temperatures.

VeryLube (XADO)

The product is made in the form of an aerosol. According to customer reviews, it is ineffective. It can only be used with low coking levels. They will not be able to clean the oil channels, but the product can flush the engine oil system. Under this name you can find several products from the mid-range and budget categories. Contains dispersing components, aliphatic hydrocarbons. Safe for rubber components, but the manufacturer cautions that VeryLube may damage paintwork.

Greenol Reanimator

A Russian product that can cope with decarbonization of any complexity. This effect is achieved through the use of powerful solvents, so the product does not meet international environmental safety standards. The composition is capable of destroying valve stem seals. The advantages include a large bottle of as much as 450 milliliters and high efficiency when cleaning individual parts (valves or cylinders). Use this liquid for decarbonizing piston rings with caution due to its high aggressiveness.

How to protect your car from carbon deposits

In order not to buy a piston ring decarbonizer and not to carry out cleaning procedures, we recommend following a few tips:

  • use high-quality fuel and oil;
  • do not let the car sit idle for a long time;
  • change the oil and oil filter promptly;
  • do not drive with damaged piston parts;
  • in winter, try to warm up the engine.

Before using any special product, carefully study its composition and effect. If possible, consult with mechanics.

Conclusion

Carbon deposits on cylinders are a typical problem that can be easily fixed in your garage. Drivers can choose among several methods (clean everything themselves or buy special compounds). The market offers a wide range in different price categories. Buy products only from trusted stores so as not to come across dangerous handicraft products. High-quality decarbonization will reduce oil consumption and add power to the vehicle.

About 50 years ago, designers were faced with the task of creating an engine that could withstand the sometimes very harsh operating conditions of the piston group and the disgusting performance of the oil. And it would also withstand long-term operation on the verge of detonation (or even beyond it), over-lean mixtures and long-term operation with maximum load and low speeds. Modern engines operate under approximately the same conditions.

Let me remind you, just in case, that detonation is not the pop of unburned fuel in the muffler, but the process of explosive combustion of the working mixture in the cylinders. The blast wave destroys engine parts, and the combustion temperature rises. Light detonation during early ignition gradually destroys the pistons, forming craters on the surface, and damages the spark plugs and valves. But detonation of the mixture before ignition is especially destructive - in this case, the pressure in the cylinder increases especially sharply, and the blast wave can break the piston pin, bend the connecting rod or deform the liners. And if detonation occurs several strokes in a row, then a sharp increase in the temperature of the exhaust gases ( EGT ) also leads to melting of the pistons, especially in the presence of local overheating areas due to gas leaks into the crankcase.

It is precisely because of the risk of detonation that gasoline engines have to be content with a low compression ratio, a mixture close to stoichiometric, and regulate the operating process by throttling.

Progress is cyclical, and at the new stage of internal combustion engine development, we once again had to bring the work process to the very “edge”. In the 1960s, designers had a problem with precise mixture formation (this was before the mass introduction of injectors), and the chemical industry could not yet produce high-quality oil that retained its properties under different conditions. Now the reasons for detonation are different - simply increasing the temperature and working at the edge of the possible allows you to save fuel. But the essence is nevertheless the same. The piston group of modern engines is at risk, the crankshaft liners and all bearings also suffer, the oil cokes in the block and especially on the pistons. Hence the need for “capital light” at 120–150 thousand kilometers.

Why is this necessary?

Piston ring movement, valve tightness, and combustion chamber cleanliness are three factors that greatly influence engine efficiency. Piston rings are responsible for compression, heat removal from the piston and the amount of oil remaining on the engine walls. When their mobility decreases or they become completely coked, the heat transfer from the piston to the walls of the cylinder block is disrupted, the temperature of the piston rings themselves rises sharply and oil loss increases. The thickness of the layer on the walls of the block becomes too large, and the temperature of the upper layer of the oil film begins to rise. All these factors have the most negative impact on the likelihood of detonation and contribute to the destruction of the piston and piston rings, including burnouts and cracks.

A tight fit of the valves is important both to ensure compression, on which combustion efficiency depends, and to cool the valves themselves - the heat from the valve plate mostly goes into the head of the block through its chamfer. And if the contact is bad, then the valve overheats, and now detonation rears its head again.

And, finally, the cleanliness of the combustion chamber and piston determines both the compression ratio of the engine (after all, there can be a lot of carbon deposits) and the degree of heat absorption by the piston and cylinder head during fuel combustion. And various solid particles of soot and uneven walls contribute to the appearance of foci of the same crushing detonation, which they try to avoid with all their might.

Once again, to summarize: on all modern engines, the operating conditions are so harsh that the oil cokes on the piston rings, cylinder walls and valves very actively. By 120–150 thousand kilometers you need to do something about it, and if you neglect it, then in the next 20–30 thousand you can destroy the engine by detonation. Question: is it possible to save on repairs by limiting ourselves to chemical decarbonization?

Decarbonization process. Old-fashioned methods

Over many years of operation, internal combustion engines have learned to restore the cleanliness of the piston group and combustion chamber in several ways. The most “old-fashioned”, undoubtedly, can be considered the attempt to clean everything with a mixture of kerosene and gasoline. Gasoline in the mixture is not for better combustion, but so that the kerosene does less harm to the rubber parts of the engine.

It is enough to pour the mixture into the cylinders and occasionally “move” the engine, turning the crankshaft back and forth to facilitate the passage of the mixture to the piston rings. Hold it as long as possible, then crank the engine with the starter, and the remaining decoking mixture along with the dissolved dirt will fly out. A little of the mixture will enter the crankcase and evaporate later.

The method is quite popular even now, since the components are available to anyone, and all the tools you need is a spark plug wrench. But its efficiency is extremely low, because it was designed for washing relatively low-temperature ash, and the process had to be repeated literally every couple of months. Modern engines have completely different carbon deposits: hard, high-temperature, even if it occurs due to oil entering the combustion chamber.

Decarbonization with water, also known as decarbonization with alcohol, turned out to be a much more exotic method. Once upon a time, people noticed that on engines that were injected with a water-methanol mixture during afterburner, the piston and combustion chamber simply shone. The search for the cause pointed to water - it is responsible for cleaning the combustion chamber. A shock dose of steam has an excellent effect on all deposits, because water is a universal solvent. And the combination H 2O + O 2 is generally a lethal thing at high temperatures. Of course, the steam does not penetrate too deeply, but where it does penetrate, it literally knocks away layers of layers from the metal. And they already fly further with exhaust gases.

On a carburetor engine, the decarbonization process usually consisted of mixing gasoline and vodka in a 1 to 1 ratio and supplying the mixture to the carburetor inlet. Then everything is simple: the “choke” was turned on, and the motor sucked in the mixture. An hour of idling or leisurely movement - and the unit is clean. You can drive further, but often the operation was carried out before major repairs, so as not to wash the parts manually.


The same methods, but today

In fact, little has changed since then, but more persistent carbon deposits in a much smaller volume still harm engines. Yes, and coked piston rings are lighter and smaller, but they “stick” in the groove quite tightly. Old-fashioned methods have to be improved.

Unfortunately, over the years of development of engines, they have become not only more powerful and compact, but also acquired a number of very fragile and sensitive to all processes in the combustion chamber components, lambda sensors, EGT sensors, direct injection injectors and, finally, catalysts and particulate filters . All of them are not at all happy with pieces of solid soot and drops of water flying from the combustion chamber. And even more so they are not happy about unknown hydrocarbons in the liquid phase with impurities. But the need to clean the engine remains. What to do?

Improvements in conventional decarbonization with kerosene have led to the emergence of a whole arsenal of mixtures. Sometimes they differ little from the “original” garage bottling, and sometimes they are very innovative and carefully designed.

Most mixtures are one or another set of solvents. The most useless ones are mainly made of kerosene with a minimum of impurities; the more advanced ones contain xylenes and solvents, which dissolve much faster and better.

But in addition to very conservative solutions, there are real “masterpieces” like the Mitsubishi Shumma composition, which also contains an ammonia solution (ammonia) and a complex of organic acids. Of course, it is not for nothing that the name of this composition contains the name of the automobile company: it is a service fluid and, perhaps, the only one of its kind. Once upon a time, when a series of GDI engines with direct injection appeared, it was discovered that due to the harsh operating process and type of injection, they had an increased content of solids in gases and a tendency to form carbon deposits. The company has developed a special mixture for preventive maintenance work; after all, you can’t disassemble the engine for cleaning every 15-20 thousand kilometers? The effect of use is noticeably more pronounced than that of conventional organic solvents; this composition and several others like it can really change something in the operation of the engine and even avoid repairs that are already brewing.

Decoking with water also came in handy. On engines with gasoline injection it is a little more complicated than on older carburetor engines, but the essence is the same. In this case, water is supplied through a dropper or other dosing device at high speeds. The effect is exactly the same. There is an option when the composition is supplied by a special apparatus through the engine fuel rail, and the process combines cleaning with water and solvents.

Well, with turbo engines everything is even clearer. They operate in all modes and speeds at the maximum speed of the work process, which means that even a slight improvement in the characteristics of the combustion chamber and piston makes their life much easier. And their piston rings operate at high temperatures, so cleaning at least the area of ​​the upper piston ring once again is a good thing.

Do you personally need it and what exactly?

If your car is older than five years and/or has a high-risk engine, then, most likely, chemical decarbonization will not be superfluous. It will slightly improve performance. But in advanced cases, when you want to eliminate your oil appetite, everything is not so simple.

On engines of an old design and with a lot of wear on the piston group, the effect, oddly enough, is well expressed, because the gaps are increased and the liquid easily penetrates downwards. On relatively new engine designs, there may be no effect at all, since the causes simply cannot be eliminated in this way.

In general, as a temporary measure, decarbonization can help in a number of cases. But if you are focused on long-term operation of the car, and not on selling it in the coming months, then you can’t get away from the “Kapital-Lite” with replacement of rings.

Have you done decoking?