Dodge

All about the carburetor for the ZAZ 968M. Adjusting the gap between the breaker contacts

The filter element is replaced every 10,000 km. When constantly driving on very dusty roads, such a replacement is done every 800...1000 km.

It is allowed to reuse the filter element after shaking off the dust and thoroughly blowing it from the inside with dry compressed air (directing the flow perpendicular to the plate on which the filter is installed). It is forbidden to direct the air stream directly at the filter curtain of the element, so as not to damage it. The filter element can be purged without removing it from the housing by directing the air flow through the opening of the cover perpendicular to the wall.

When assembling the air purifier, it is necessary to pay attention to the reliability of the sealing of the pipes in order to avoid the suction of contaminated air.

Disassembly and assembly of a single-chamber carburetor (K-133 and K-133A). It is recommended to disassemble the carburetor in the following sequence:

unscrew the fuel filter plug 77 and remove the filter (see Fig. 28);

unscrew the screws securing the float chamber cover to the float chamber body, lift the cover and, carefully turning it towards the location of the rigid rod, remove the cover with the float from the float chamber body; simultaneously disconnecting the rod from the choke lever;

remove the gasket, remove axis 4 (Fig. 72) of the float and remove the float. Remove the valve needle 7 together with the rubber sealing washer 8 and unscrew the valve seat 6. Unscrew the idle air jet 12 (see Fig. 29);

wash the parts in gasoline. If there are heavy resinous deposits, wash the parts with acetone or solvent for nitro paints. To clean the jets, you can use a pointed wooden stick, generously moistened with solvent. Blow out the washed parts and carburetor channels with compressed air. It is not recommended to wash the fuel valve with acetone or other solvents to avoid destroying the sealing rubber washer. It is absolutely unacceptable to use wire, even soft wire, to clean jets;

Check the float for leaks. When soldering the float, appropriate precautions must be taken to avoid explosion of gasoline vapors. After soldering, the mass of the float should be 13.3±0.7 g. Check the tightness of the fuel valve. If necessary, replace the sealing rubber washer 8 (see Fig. 72) or the fuel valve assembly.

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Rice. 72. Float with fuel valve: 1 - float; 2 - tongue for setting the level; 3 - float travel limiter; 4 - float axis; 5 - float chamber cover: 6 - fuel supply valve seat; 7 - fuel supply valve needle; 8 - sealing rubber washer

Assemble the float chamber cover in the reverse order of disassembly, in this case:

the idle air jet must be tightened without much effort, checking the integrity of the fiber gasket;

in case of replacing parts of the float mechanism or if carburetor overflows were observed during operation, you should check the correct position of the float relative to the fuel valve. This position determines the fuel level in the float chamber. Preliminarily set the size to 39 mm by bending tongue 2 (see Fig. 72). At the same time, it is necessary to set the needle stroke of the fuel supply valve to 1.2...1.5 mm by bending the 3rd stroke limiter of the float. In this case, it is not allowed to press the float on the valve needle when adjusting the fuel level in the float chamber in order to avoid damage to the sealing rubber washer;

The circumferential gap between the air damper and the cover body should not exceed 0.25 mm. Followed by:

unscrew screws 40 (see Fig. 29) and remove microswitch 39; disconnect the mixing chamber housing and at the same time, pressing the accelerator pump drive bar, remove the drive rod linkage connecting the rod to the throttle axis lever, unscrew the fuel supply screw 4 and remove the accelerator pump nozzle 3;

remove rod 33 of the accelerator pump drive together with the bar and piston and remove the return spring of the rod. Remove the check valve safety ring from the accelerator pump well (using tweezers) and, turning the float chamber body over, remove check valve 30 (ball d=4 mm); Unscrew plugs 13 (see Fig. 28) of the idle fuel jet and air jet 16 of the main metering system, then unscrew the jets. When turning out the jets, you should use carefully tucked screwdrivers so as not to damage the slots;

unscrew plug 8 and remove emulsion tube 9 (see Fig. 29), unscrew valve 31 of the mechanical economizer and remove the fiber washer;

Unscrew the adjusting screw 19 from the mixing chamber housing, unscrew the screws, remove the economizer 23 of the forced idle system (EFS) and remove the spray of the autonomous idle system. Check the tip of the adjusting screw 19 АСХХ and the conical surface of the hole, the conical surfaces of the valve 24 of the forced idle economizer system (ЭПХХ) and the spray АСХХ, the tightness of the nozzle 25 in the mixing chamber 28, the condition of the diaphragm of the valve 24 АХХ. Replace worn-out parts;

Check the tightness of the screws securing the throttle valve to the axle. Check the fit of the throttle valve to the mixing chamber body; the gap along the contour should not exceed 0.06 mm. Thoroughly rinse and blow through all parts. Check whether the accelerator pump piston moves easily in the cylinder. It should move in the cylinder without jamming;

check the tightness of the accelerator pump discharge valve and the mechanical economizer valve (in case of increased gasoline consumption), inspect the sealing gaskets: replace damaged gaskets with new ones.

Assemble the float chamber housing with the mixing chamber housing in the reverse order of disassembly, and it is necessary to:

screw in the jets without much effort;

ensure reliable sealing in all places where gaskets are installed;

Check the gap between the adjusting nuts with the throttle valve fully open; for the economizer drive rod it should be 4.5...5.5 mm, and for the accelerator pump piston drive rod it should be 1.5...2.5 mm. Fix the position of the adjusting nuts by crimping;

install (see Fig. 29) sprayer 3 and tighten fuel supply screw 4,

install the assembled float chamber cover by connecting the rod;

Rice. 73. Device for checking the fuel level in the float chamber of carburetors K-133 and K-133A: 1 - scale ruler; 2 - glass tube; 3 - fitting; 4 - gasket; 5 - carburetor

check the fuel supply by the accelerator pump, which should be at least 6 cm3 per 10 piston strokes, the relative position of the air and throttle valves;

install the lower stop of the throttle lever so that the throttle valve is completely closed, but not jammed, and the upper stop so that the plane of the throttle valve is parallel to the axis of the 32 mm diameter hole in the mixing chamber. With the air damper completely closed, the gap between the wall of the mixing chamber and the throttle valve should be 1.6...1.8 mm (if necessary, set by bending the rod);

install the microswitch so that its pusher, when the throttle valve is fully closed, is recessed by lever 41

microswitch drive (microswitch is open), a characteristic click is heard, when the throttle valve is opened, lever 41 is lowered by 3...4 mm, the microswitch pusher is retracted by a spring, and the microswitch is closed;

check the fuel level in the float chamber on the stand. The fuel level in the float chamber at an excess pressure of 0.3 kgf/cm2 for gasoline with a density of 0.720...0.750 g/cm3 should be 21...23.5 mm from the upper plane of the float chamber.

In the absence of a stand, this check can be performed with less accuracy on the engine, for which a fitting with a glass tube is made (Fig. 73). It is necessary to unscrew the main jet plug and screw the fitting into its place so that the glass tube becomes vertical, then use the manual pump lever to prime the fuel pump. Fill the float chamber with fuel. Using a metal ruler, measure the distance from the upper plane of the float chamber to the fuel level in the float chamber (to the bottom of the meniscus). When installing the carburetor, pay attention to the integrity of the gaskets. After installation, it is necessary to adjust the carburetor while the engine is idling.

Checking the solenoid valve. The tightness of the solenoid valve should be checked by supplying air under a pressure of 0.9...0.85 kgf/cm2 into the side fitting, while closing the ventilation fitting.

When a vacuum of 0.85 kgf/cm2 is supplied to the vertical fitting, the solenoid valve should open with the 12 V voltage connected and close with the voltage removed. If the voltage is connected while the engine is not running, a characteristic click should be heard.

With an engine idling, the valve is checked by disconnecting the wire, and the engine should stop.

Checking the electronic control unit. The electronic control unit has two limit limits. When the engine crankshaft rotation speed increases above 1500...1800 rpm, the positive potential is switched off at terminal 1 (see Fig. 29), and when the frequency decreases below 1500 rpm, a positive potential appears at terminal /.

In this way, the operability of the unit is checked, and before this it is necessary to remove the wires to the microswitch. The absence of positive potential at terminal / (if there is a positive potential at terminal 2) indicates a malfunction of the unit and the need to replace it.

In the event of a failure of the forced idle economizer system, it is necessary to de-energize the system and connect fittings 3 and 6 (see Fig. 28) with a flexible hose, while the carburetor will operate according to the generally accepted scheme, without solenoid valve 21 (see Fig. 29) of the electronic control unit 35 and microswitch

Adjusting the carburetor when the engine is idling. The economical operation of the engine largely depends on the correct adjustment of the carburetor when operating at low crankshaft speeds at idle.

This adjustment is carried out with the engine fully warmed up. The oil temperature must be at least 60...70° C.

Adjustment of carburetors K-133 and K-133A must be performed in the following sequence:

With the engine not running, screw in screw 7 (see Fig. 28) for operational adjustment and screw 2 as far as possible, but not too tightly, so as not to damage their working cones. After this, unscrew the screws 2.5...3 turns;

start the engine and rotate screw 2 to set the crankshaft speed to 950...1050 rpm;

then tighten screw 7, while the engine crankshaft speed will first increase, and then as the screw is further screwed in, the mixture will become leaner and the engine will begin to operate intermittently with a simultaneous decrease in engine crankshaft speed. At this moment, you need to slightly unscrew screw 7 and achieve stable engine operation.

The selected adjustment must be checked in variable modes - sharply press the throttle pedal and quickly release it. In this case, the crankshaft rotation speed should smoothly increase without dips or interruptions, and when the pedal is abruptly released, it should decrease to a minimum and stable speed, while the engine should not stop. If the engine has stopped, turning out screw 7 should slightly increase the rotation speed.

Emission testing with exhaust gases into the atmosphere is carried out after adjusting the idle speed on a warm engine (oil temperature 60...70°C).

To check, special equipment is required - a gas analyzer with an error of no more than ±2.5%. The check is carried out in accordance with GOST 17.2.2.03-87 in two modes: at idle speed and 2550...2650 rpm.

If the emission of harmful substances does not exceed permissible limits, toxicity screw 2 (see Fig. 28) of the K-133 and K-133A carburetors must be painted over with red paint. If the emission of harmful substances exceeds the permissible limits, it is necessary to adjust the crankshaft speed at idle and then check the emission of harmful substances.

If additional adjustments cannot reduce the emission of harmful substances, the carburetor must be replaced and the emission of harmful substances checked; If unsatisfactory results are obtained, diagnose the engine, identify and eliminate detected faults.

Removal and installation of the DAAZ 2101-20 carburetor. To remove the carburetor, loosen the clamps and remove the crankcase ventilation hose. Unscrew the four nuts securing the outlet pipe, loosen the clamp, remove the pipe with the gasket, and remove the fuel supply hose from the carburetor pipe and close the hose with a plug to prevent gasoline leakage.

Disconnect the choke drive cable from the carburetor and the rod and return spring from the throttle drive lever, unscrew the carburetor mounting nuts, remove it together with the gasket and close the inlet of the intake manifold with a plug.

Install the carburetor in the reverse order of removal. After installation, it is necessary to adjust the air damper drive and carburetor throttles, as well as the crankshaft speed when idling the engine.

Dismantling, checking and assembling the DAAZ 2101-20 carburetor. The carburetor is disassembled into the following main components: the housing cover assembled with a starter, float, needle valve and filter; housing assembled with diffusers and accelerator pump; throttle body assembly with throttle valves and spool device of the crankcase ventilation system.

Vacuum" href="/text/category/vakuum/" rel="bookmark">vacuum-corrector of the breaker-distributor; 19 - spool; 20 - thrust screw; 22 - lever of the primary throttle valve axis; 23 - linkage lever with the starting device ; 24 - bushing - 25 - secondary throttle valve drive lever; 26 - damper drive lever; 27 - lock washer; 28 - return spring of the secondary throttle valve drive lever; 29 - starter rod; 30 - secondary throttle valve lever; 31 - housing throttle valves: 32 - gasket; 33 - starter rod

Before disassembling, it is necessary to wash the outside of the carburetor and blow it with compressed air. It is recommended to disassemble in the following order:

remove the spring 28 (Fig. 74) of the lever 25 of the throttle valve drive of the secondary chamber, undo the cotter pin and disconnect the rod 29 from the throttle valve lever 23, connecting the throttle valve of the primary chamber with the starting device;

Having pressed the inner cylinder of the telescopic rod 7 into the outer one, disconnect it from the air damper control lever;

remove the carburetor cover with the gasket, being careful not to damage the gasket and float, then unscrew the screws securing the throttle body to the carburetor body and carefully, without distortion, separate them, trying not to damage the adapter bushings of the carburetor fuel-air channels pressed into the body and the bushing sockets. Carefully disconnect the heat-insulating gasket from the body and remove it;

disassemble the carburetor body cover in the following order: using a mandrel, carefully push the float axis 20 (Fig. 75) out of the racks (push it towards the rack with the cut) and remove the axis, remove the float 19 and needle valve 16, and the cover gasket. Unscrew the seat 15 of the needle valve, unscrew the plug 18 and remove the fuel filter 17;

disconnect (see Fig. 74) from the lever of the air damper axis 8, the telescopic rod 7 and the rod 33 of the starting device drive;

remove the housing 6 of the starting device, the air damper 9 from the axle, and then remove the axle from the carburetor cover. The ends of the air damper mounting screws are pierced. To unscrew them, a lot of force may be required and the damper axis may become deformed. To prevent deformation of the axle, it is recommended to place some kind of stand under it.

After disassembly, you should wash the parts in gasoline, blow them with compressed air and check their technical condition, which must meet the following requirements:

the sealing surfaces of the cover must not be damaged, otherwise the cover should be replaced;

the float must not be damaged or have any distortion in shape; the mass of the float should be 11...13 g;

the needle valve seat and the valve itself should not have wear or seal damage; the needle valve should move freely in its seat; The needle valve ball should move freely and not hang up.

If damaged parts are found during inspection, they must be replaced.

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Rice. 76. Setting the fuel level in the float chamber of the DAAZ 2101-20 carburetor: /-carburetor cover: 2-needle valve seat; 3-needle valve; 4-stop; 5-. needle valve ball; 6-pull valve needle fork; 7-float bracket; 8-tongue; 9-float; 10-gasket.

Before starting the test, it is necessary to make 10 test strokes with lever 28 (see Fig. 31, b) to fill the channels of the accelerator pump.

The tightness of the needle valve is checked on a stand that supplies fuel to the carburetor under a pressure of 3 m of water. Art. After setting the level in the test tube of the stand, it is not allowed to fall for 10...15 s. If the fuel level in the test tube decreases, this indicates a fuel leak through the needle valve.

Setting the fuel level in the float chamber. For DAAZ 2101-20 carburetors, checking the fuel level in the float chamber is not provided.

The level required for normal operation of the carburetor is ensured by the correct installation of serviceable elements of the shut-off device (Fig. 76): the float assembly should not have any visible damage, the mass of the float should be 11...13 g; the distance between the float and gasket 10 adjacent to the carburetor cover should be (6.5 ± 0.25) mm.

The control is carried out with a gauge, the housing cover is held vertically so that the tongue 8 of the float lightly touches the ball 5 of the needle valve 3, without recessing it: the size adjustment (6.5 ± 0.25) mm is carried out by bending the tongue 8, and it is necessary that the supporting platform the tongue was perpendicular to the axis of the needle valve and had no nicks or dents; the gap corresponding to the maximum stroke of the float should be (8±0.25) mm. It is adjusted by bending stop 4; fork 6 should not interfere with the free movement of the float. After installing the carburetor, you must make sure that the float does not touch the walls of the float chamber.

Proper float installation should be checked each time the float or fuel needle valve is replaced; When replacing a needle valve, it is necessary to replace the valve sealing gasket.

Adjusting the crankshaft speed at idle. The elements that regulate the crankshaft rotation speed when the engine is idling include (see Fig. 30) mixture screw 11 and screw 2, which limits the opening of the throttle valve. When screw 11 is tightened, the mixture becomes leaner; when screw 2 is tightened, the throttle valve opens slightly. A restrictive plastic sleeve is pressed onto screw 11, allowing the screw to be turned only one turn. Therefore, before making adjustments at a service station, it is necessary to unscrew screw 11, break the protrusion of the bushing, unscrew the screw, remove the bushing from it and screw the screw back into the carburetor. After completing the adjustment, press a new restrictive plastic bushing onto screw II in such a position that the protrusion of the bushing, touching the stop in the hole, does not allow the screw to be unscrewed.

Idle speed adjustment is performed on a warm engine (oil temperature 60...70 ° C) with adjusted clearances in the gas distribution mechanism and with the ignition timing correctly set.

Adjustment is carried out in the following sequence (see Fig. 30):

use screw 11 to set the maximum crankshaft speed at a given throttle position, and then use screw 2 to set the minimum stable crankshaft speed;

screw 11 to achieve a CO concentration in the exhaust gases of no more than 1.5% at a given throttle position and screw 2 to restore the crankshaft speed to 950...1050 rpm;

set the crankshaft rotation speed at idle equal to 0.6 nominal revolutions (2700...2800 rpm), and check the CO concentration in the exhaust gases, which should be no more than 1%, if necessary, achieve the CO concentration with screw 7. After this, check the CO concentration in the exhaust gases again when idling at a crankshaft speed of 950...1050 rpm and achieve a concentration of no more than 1.5%;

place plug 35 (see Fig. 75) in the screw hole. If there is no gas analyzer, adjustments can be made in the following order:

use screw 2 (see Fig. 30) to set the minimum stable speed of the crankshaft, and then use screw 11 to ensure that the engine operates at the maximum speed of the crankshaft at a given throttle position;

using screw 2, reduce the opening of the throttle valve until a minimum stable rotation speed is obtained and, by tightening screw 11, set the crankshaft rotation speed at which the engine operates with noticeable interruptions, and then unscrew the screw by 30...60° (no more) until a stable engine operation;

Check the adjustment by sharply pressing the throttle pedal and releasing it. The engine should not stop.

Removal and installation of carburetor drives. To remove the throttle valve drive rod assembly with cable and sheath, you must:

unscrew screw 14 (see Fig. 32) securing the cable to the carburetor rod and release the cable;

unpin the pin, disconnect cable 3 from the pedal and remove it completely from the tube laid in the floor tunnel; bend the bracket 18 securing the shell to the engine bracket;

unscrew the two bolts securing the fuel tank clamps to the floor of the body (after removing the rear seat) and slightly lift the tank up to release the shells of the carburetor rods;

Remove the shell from the rubber seals (on the walls of the body).

Installation of the throttle drive cable is carried out in the reverse order.

To remove the air damper rod from the vehicle, it is necessary to release the fuel tank mount (as described above), and then (see Fig. 32):

disconnect rod 12 and shell 9 from carburetor 13 by loosening screws 10 and bolt II;

pull button 4 of the air damper drive rod and completely remove it from the shell;

disconnect and remove the gearbox control mechanism from the tunnel (see subsection “Gearbox control mechanism”) and bend the shell fastening bracket located in the tunnel;

unscrew the two screws 6 securing bracket 5 to the tunnel and remove the bracket with the shell from the tunnel, then use a screwdriver to separate the shell retainer 7 from the bracket 6.

The air damper control drive is assembled and installed in the reverse order.

Adjusting the carburetor drive. After dismantling and installing drives to the carburetor flaps or installing new ones, appropriate adjustments should be made.

It is recommended to adjust the carburetor throttle control drive as follows (see Fig. 32): loosen the screw (bolt) 14 securing the rod 17 and, using pliers, pull the end of the rod until the pedal 3 is set to its highest position; secure the rod in this position with a screw. When the drive is adjusted correctly, the carburetor throttle valve should be completely closed when the pedal is released and fully open when the pedal is pressed all the way down.

The air damper drive should be adjusted in the following order: loosen the bolt (screw) 11 securing the rod to the carburetor air damper articulated coupling and lower the button 4 of the air damper drive to the lowest position; Without moving the rods in the shell, fully open the air damper and in this position secure the rod with bolt (screw) 11. The shell 9 of the rod must be tightly tightened with screw 10, the shell protruding beyond the bracket is not allowed.

Engine running-in

After engine repair, especially in the case of replacing parts of the crank mechanism, it is necessary to run it in before starting operation. The reliability and durability of the engine depends on the thoroughness of the running-in no less than on the quality of the repair. The engine running-in process consists of two stages.

The first stage is running-in at idle for 35 minutes in the following modes:

1000…1200 rpm - 5 min;

2000…2200 rpm - 5 min;

3000…3200 rpm - 10 min;

1000…3600 rpm - 15 min

Run the engine in with M8G1 oil or other oils specified in this book. The carburetor choke should be kept fully open. During the first stage of running-in, it is necessary to check the pressure in the lubrication system, the absence of leaks, adjust the crankshaft rotation speed at idle, and make sure that it is working normally by ear. The oil pressure at 3000 rpm of the crankshaft and the oil temperature of +80 °C must be at least 2 kgf/cm2. Malfunctions discovered during the break-in process should be eliminated and the oil in the engine sump replaced.

It is better to carry out the first stage of running-in on a stand, but if a stand is not available, it can also be done on a car.

The second stage is running in the car for a mileage of 3000 km. During this period, it is necessary to follow the rules for breaking in a new car as set out in the operating manual.

CLUTCH

CLUTCH DESIGN FEATURES

The car is equipped with a dry single-plate clutch with coil springs located along the periphery and a torsional vibration damper (damper) on the driven disk. The outer diameter of the friction linings of the disc is 190 mm. The clutch is controlled using a hydraulic release drive from the foot pedal.

Carburetor K-133* (*engines can be equipped with K-133A or K-127 carburetors, depending on the time of production of the car. These carburetors differ from K-133 in the design of the mixing chamber. They do not have an economizer for the EPХH idle system.) - double-diffuser, vertical, with falling flow and horizontal air supply (Fig. 13). The float chamber is single-chamber, balanced, and communicates with the atmosphere through an air pipe and an air filter.

The carburetor consists of three main parts: the float chamber cover, the middle part with the float chamber and the lower pipe with the mixing chamber.

The cover houses the air damper, fuel filter, fuel float valve, accelerator pump nozzle, idle air jet and parking imbalance valve. The air damper is hinged to the throttle valve and is actuated by a rod whose button is located on the floor tunnel. With the air damper completely closed, the throttle valve opens by 1.6-1.8 mm, which achieves the best mixture formation when starting the idle engine.

The middle part forms a float chamber and an air channel with diffusers pressed into it. The middle section contains the float, accelerator pump, economizer valve, accelerator pump check and discharge valves, main system air jet, idle jet and main jet.

Rice. 12. Details of the power supply system, engine ventilation and exhaust gases: 1 - remote gasket; 2 - spring; 3 - lower body; 4 - lever; 5 - roller; 6 - balancer; 7 - drive lever; 8 - discharge valve; 9 - cover; 10 - filter; 11 - inlet valve; 12 - upper body; 13 - diaphragm; 14 - nut-cam; 15 - rod; 16 - rod guide; 17 - gaskets; 18 - adjusting gaskets; 19 - spacer; 20 - pipe connecting the air filter to the carburetor; 21 - hose for suction of crankcase gases into the air filter; 22 - pallet; 23 - lock; 24 - air filter housing; 25 - padding; 26 - glass; 27 - spring; 28 - air filter ring; 29 - valve seat; 30 - valve; 31 - exhaust pipe of the third cylinder; 32 - exhaust pipe; 33 - muffler partitions; 34 - first bypass pipe; 35 - second bypass pipe; 36 - third bypass pipe; 37 - muffler; 38 - exhaust pipe of the first cylinder; 39 - exhaust pipe of the second cylinder; 40 - muffler tee; 41 - sealing asbestos thread; 42 - clamp; 43 - iron-asbestos sealing ring; 44 - exhaust pipe of the fourth cylinder; 45 - bushing; A - the protrusion of the rod should be 1.7-2.8 mm (the level of protrusion is regulated by a set of gaskets when installing the pump); B - lever sinking 1 -1.5 mm.

The mixing chamber contains a throttle valve, the drive of which is connected by a rod to the accelerator pedal. In addition to the throttle valve, the mixing chamber contains a forced idle economizer (EFES). The economizer consists of a housing closed with a lid, inside which a diaphragm is installed. A screw is installed on the cover, which regulates the amount of mixture entering the engine and limits the stroke of the valve with the diaphragm. The economizer is the main regulating element that controls the vacuum that occurs in the intake pipe.

The microswitch is attached to the bracket with screws. The effectiveness of the EPHH depends on the correct installation of the microswitch.

The electro-pneumatic valve is located on a horizontal shelf to the right of the ignition coil and is designed to turn on and off the supply of vacuum to the valve diaphragm.

The electronic control unit is installed on the right side of the engine compartment wall. It controls the operation of the electro-pneumatic valve, adjusting it depending on the crankshaft speed.

COOLING SYSTEM

Cooling system(Fig. 11) consists of an axial blower fan, made in one unit with the generator, deflectors that provide the necessary distribution of cooling air flow, and a thermal control system to maintain the normal thermal state of the engine at various fluctuations in ambient temperature.

The fan guide vane is cast integrally with the blades and houses a generator with protruding shaft ends. A fan impeller is attached to one end of the generator shaft. On the other is the fan drive pulley. The pulley consists of two halves: front and rear, eleven shims and a pressure cap.

The fan and generator are driven by a V-belt from a pulley on the crankshaft. The fan drive pulley is integral with the centrifugal oil purifier cover.

Normal belt tension is determined by a deflection of 15-22 mm from a force of 4 kgf applied to the middle between the pulleys.

The length of the new fan belt along the inner perimeter is 985 mm, cross-section 10.5x8 mm (you can use an M-21 engine belt).

Thermal control system consists of two air exhaust casings (one for each pair of cylinders) and two dampers actuated by thermostats.

When starting the engine, the flaps close the outlet of cooling air to the outside and transfer it into the engine compartment, thus forming air circulation inside the engine compartment. As the engine warms up, the air heats up and acts on the thermostats, which, through a system of levers, gradually open the dampers and allow some of the air to flow outside.

The air inlet into the engine compartment is regulated by dampers installed in the sockets of the air supply hoses. The dampers are fixed using spring handles and combs welded to the sockets. With the onset of cold weather, the dampers should be closed, monitoring the oil temperature according to the indicator on the instrument panel, which should not be lower than 65°C.

Rice. 11. Engine cooling system parts: 1 - belt; 2 - adjusting washer; 3 - pulley hub; 4 - pressure cap; 5 - washer; 6 - nut; 7 - key; 8 - inner half of the pulley; 9 - outer half of the pulley; 10 - bolt securing the generator to the guide vane; 11 - generator; 12 - fan wheel; 13 - guide vane; 14 - outlet casing; 15 - damper (position when the engine is cold); 16 - spring of thermal power element; 17 - adjusting screw; 18 - thermal power element.

LUBRICATION SYSTEM

Lubrication system- combined (Fig. 10). Main and connecting rod bearings, camshaft and balancer shaft bearings, pushers and rocker arm rollers are lubricated under pressure; other parts - by spraying. The lubrication system includes an oil sump, an oil pump receiver, an oil pump, a centrifugal oil purifier, an oil cooler, an inlet and outlet system, an oil level indicator and an oil filler neck.

Oil pump gear type is mounted in a separate magnesium alloy housing, which is secured in the internal cavity of the crankshaft housing with two studs. The ball pressure reducing valve, made in the oil pump housing, is activated when the pressure in the oil system is in the range of 5.5-7.5 kgf/cm 2 ; operation is not regulated. From the oil pump, oil is supplied to the front bearing and through the front main bearing and a cavity along the front end of the crankshaft to the centrifugal oil cleaner. The purified oil flows through the internal cavities of the bolt of the centrifugal oil purifier and the crankshaft to lubricate the rubbing surfaces and into the oil cooler.

A centrifugal oil purifier is a fine oil filter. Before this, the oil is cleaned only by the oil receiver grid. During engine operation, due to centrifugal forces, solid particles are separated from the oil and deposited on the walls of the housing and cover. The cast-iron body is installed on the toe of the crankshaft, fixed on a key and secured together with the oil deflector with a special bolt, the tightening torque is 10-12.5 kgf-m.

The cover is made of aluminum alloy, and at the same time it is used as a fan drive pulley. The cover is attached to the body with six bolts through a paronite gasket. To prevent incorrect installation of the TDC and MH marks marked on the cover, one of the six holes (indicated by a mark) is offset relative to the body.

A ratchet is screwed into the cover to rotate the crankshaft manually.

Oil receiver consists of a cap with a mesh and an oil supply pipe with a flange. The oil receiver is bolted to the oil pump. The seal is achieved by a rubber ring.

Oil radiator included in the lubrication system in parallel through a calibrated hole in the nozzle fitting. The radiator consists of sections and swirlers washed by an air flow. The radiator is attached to the crankcase in the camber on three studs through spacers and sealed with the ends of two rubber rings placed on the tubes.

The radiator consists of sections welded with copper in a protective environment, stamped from thin sheet steel, in which specially made swirlers are installed to improve heat dissipation, and corrugations are installed between the sections.

The radiator spacer is stamped, made of sheet steel and is the main load-bearing part. Restrictive plates and tubes are soldered to it, onto which rubber sealing rings are placed.

Each time the casing is removed, the outer part of the radiator must be blown out with compressed air.

Crankcase ventilation engine MeMZ-968E (power 41 hp) is closed, crankcase gases from the timing gear cover are sucked through a polychloride tube into the uncleaned cavity of the air filter.

The crankcase ventilation of the MeMZ-968GE and MeMZ-968BE engines (45 and 50 hp) is also closed. Crankcase gases from the timing gear cover are sucked through a tube into the cleaned filter cavity.

From the air filter, crankcase gases are sucked off by the carburetor through the neck and additionally by the spool valve of the carburetor throttle valve through a tube. An oil deflector installed in the oil trap of the air filter promotes condensation of oil vapors. The collected oil in the filter oil trap flows into the transparent drain tube.

During operation, if oil accumulates in the transparent tube, it must be removed and the oil drained.

The crankcase ventilation device allows you to regulate the amount of gases sucked from the crankcase depending on the operating mode of the engine.

When operating at low crankshaft speeds and at low loads, the carburetor spool only partially opens the bypass holes and provides suction of a small amount of crankcase gases.

When the throttle valve opens, the spool valve opens the hole completely, increasing the suction of crankcase gases.

Work control The lubrication system is carried out using oil pressure and temperature sensors. The MM-111 A membrane-type emergency oil pressure sensor is triggered when the pressure in the system drops to 0.4-0.7 kgf/cm 2 .

The pressure indicator is a light bulb installed on the instrument panel. When the ignition is turned on, the emergency pressure lamp lights up and goes out after the engine starts. If the light is on during operating modes, it indicates a sensor or motor malfunction.

In these cases, further operation until the defect is detected and eliminated is unacceptable.

The oil pressure at a crankshaft speed of 3000 rpm and an oil temperature of 80°C must be at least 1.2 kgf/cm2.

The TM-100A oil temperature sensor is installed in the front part of the oil pan.

When installing and dismantling the sensor, use a socket wrench to avoid damaging it.

The oil temperature gauge is located on the instrument panel and indicates the oil temperature in the engine crankcase. Operating oil temperature 80-110°C.

The oil level is controlled by an oil meter. During operation, the oil level in the engine crankcase should be maintained between the two marks marked on the oil gauge.

Rice. 10. Engine lubrication diagram: 1 - centrifugal oil purifier cover; 2 - vertical channel for supplying oil to the camshaft; 3 - transverse oil channel for supplying purified oil; 4 - shaft of the balancing mechanism; 5 - oil filler neck; 6 - camshaft; 7 - cylinder head; 8 - longitudinal channel for supplying oil to the pushers; 9 - oil pressure sensor; 10 - oil drain pipe; 11 - rocker arm rollers; 12 - oil cooler; 13 - oil drain fitting; 14 - oil supply nozzle; 15 - longitudinal channel for supplying purified oil to the main bearings; 16 - rod; 17 - oil supply to the pushers of two exhaust valves (the first pair of cylinders on the fan side); 18 - groove in the pusher; 19 - insert (only on two exhaust valve pushers); 20 - pusher (two exhaust valves); 21 - transverse channel for supplying purified oil to the main bearings; 22 - channels for supplying oil to the connecting rod journals; 23 - push rod; 24 - pusher; 25 - groove in the main bearings; 26 - vertical channel from the oil pump; 27 - oil pump; 28 - oil receiver; 29 - longitudinal channel from the pump; 30 - oil in the pan; 31 - oil meter; 32 - oil temperature sensor; 33 - vertical channel from the pump; 34 - cavity of the centrifugal oil purifier.

GAS DISTRIBUTION MECHANISM

The gas distribution mechanism (Fig. 8) is overhead valve, consists of gears, a camshaft and a balancing mechanism, pushers and rods, rocker arms and valves.

Camshaft- three-bearing, a textolite gear drive of the entire mechanism is installed on the front end of the shaft on a key. The gear is fixed with a special nut with an end slot, which is also an eccentric cam for driving the gasoline pump. At the rear end of the shaft, on the continuation of the third journal support, there is a helical gear to drive the ignition distributor and the oil pump.

On both sides, inside the camshaft, bushings for the balancer shaft and counterweight are pressed. The camshaft supports are holes machined to the size of the shaft in the engine crankcase body.

Balancing mechanism- (gears, shaft and counterweight) is driven by a pair of helical gears. For correct installation of the valve timing and balance mechanism, “O” marks are stamped on the gears, which must be aligned during assembly.

Pushers- plunger type, steel, with welded ends (Fig. 9). The exhaust valve pushers of the first and third cylinders (the first pair on the fan side) have four holes on the cylindrical surface: one at the top for removing the pusher, the second in the groove for supplying oil through the rods into the cylinder head to the rocker arms and two at the bottom for draining the oil, flowing down the housings of the pusher rods from the head.

The pusher insert has central and side drilling. All other pushers do not have inserts or grooves along the outer diameter.

Push rods- duralumin tubes with pressed steel tips. The tips have holes drilled for the passage of lubricant.

The pusher rods of the exhaust valves of cylinders 1 and 3 are shorter and have a length of 208.9-210.2 mm. When installing, they should not be confused with other rods. The length of the remaining six rods is 223.9-225.2 mm.

Valve rocker arms steel, cast, with adjusting screw and lock nut. There are right and left rocker arms.

Valve rocker shaft- steel, hollow, with grooves along the outer diameter under the valve rocker arms and holes in them for supplying and draining oil.

Valves suspended, located in the cylinder head. The diameter of the intake valve is 34 mm, and the exhaust valve is 32 mm.

The working chamfer of the exhaust valves has a special surfacing. The angle of inclination of the working chamfer of the valves is 45°.

High-hardness tips are placed on top of the exhaust valve stems, since the exhaust valves are made of non-heat-resistant heat-resistant steel. Each valve has two springs - small and large.

Checking and adjusting the clearances in the valve drive mechanism is carried out on a cold engine.

When adjusting, under no circumstances should the gaps be reduced against the norm. Reducing the clearances causes loose valve seating, a drop in engine power and burnout of the valves.

Rice. 8. Gas distribution and balancing mechanisms: 1 - camshaft; 2 - balancer shaft; 3 - thrust flange; 4 - spring bushing; 5 - driven camshaft gear; 6 - fuel pump drive nut; 7 - driven balancer shaft gear; 8 - bushing; 9 - thrust washer; 10 - key; 11 - shaft cover; 12 - gasket; 13 - counterweight; 14 - spring; 15 - protrusion (mark) of the offset hole on the cover of the centrifugal oil purifier; 16 - timing gear cover; 17 - cover (pulley); A - installation marks.

Boom housings and oil drain pipe are steel tubes pressed into the cylinder head.

The rod casings on the engine crankcase are sealed with rubber seals, which are pressed by springs. The oil drain pipe is sealed with a rubber gasket. Rubber seals are installed along with the cylinder heads.

Timing gear cover made of magnesium alloy, fixed on the crankshaft housing with two control pins and bolted along the contour. The fuel pump is attached to the right side of the cover, and the oil filler neck to the left. At the top of the cover there are lugs for attaching the fan guide vane.

In the center of the cover under the ball bearing seat there is a pocket into which a crankcase gas suction tube is pressed.

The pocket is closed on the inside with an oil deflector, which is secured with two screws. When installing it, the stamping for draining the oil is directed downward. To remove the timing gear cover, you must remove the fuel pump, spacer and rod guide.

Engine duty cycle is carried out in two revolutions of the crankshaft, therefore, each stroke occurs in half a revolution (180°) of the crankshaft.

The sequence of alternating cycles of the same name or the order of engine operation 1-3-4-2 is selected from the conditions for ensuring uniform rotation and balance of the engine crankshaft. Intake, compression, power stroke and exhaust in a certain sequence and duration are carried out by correctly setting the valve timing.

From the valve timing diaphragm it is clear that the intake of the working mixture into the cylinder begins before the piston reaches TDC at a distance corresponding to 20° of rotation of the crankshaft to TDC. The valve closes when the piston passes BDC and begins to move upward at a distance corresponding to 60° of rotation of the crankshaft after BDC. Thus, the intake occurs during a 260° rotation of the crankshaft.

The exhaust valve opens before the piston reaches BDC at a distance corresponding to 60° of rotation of the crankshaft to BDC. The release continues after the piston passes TDC, that is, when the crankshaft rotates another 20°. Thus, the intake duration is also 260°.

For correct installation of the valve timing and the balancing mechanism, “O” marks are stamped on the gears of the camshaft and the balancing mechanism, which must be aligned during assembly.

To correctly set the ignition timing, the housing and cover of the centrifugal oil purifier are marked with installation marks: MZ - ignition timing and TDC - for adjusting (setting) the gap between the valves and rocker arms. These marks, when performing the appropriate work, must be aligned with the protrusion on the timing gear cover. To prevent incorrect installation of the TDC and MH marks marked on the cover (relative to the body), one of the six holes is offset and marked with a mark (see item 15 in Fig. 8).

When performing disassembly and assembly operations and during maintenance, the cylinder head nuts are tightened on a cold engine in two steps: first to a torque of 1.6-2.0 kgf-m, finally - 4.0-4.5 kgf-m. The procedure for tightening the nuts is shown in the figure.

Rice. 9. Parts of the gas distribution mechanism: 1 - guide bushing; 2 - valve plate; 3 - locking block; 4 - tip (only for inlet valves); 5 - small spring; 6 - support washer; 7 - intake valve seat; 8 - inlet valve; 9 - exhaust valve; 10 - outlet valve seat; 11 - large spring; 12 - oil drain pipe; 13 - tube seal; 14 - seal spring; 15 - pusher of two exhaust valves (first pair of cylinders on the fan side); 16 - pushers of the remaining valves; 17 - rod tip for pusher 15; 18 - casing seal; 19 - seal washer; 20 - rod for pusher 15; 21 - rod casing; 22 - rod tip; 23 - rod for the remaining pushers; 24 - rod tip 23; 25 - hairpin; 26 - cracker; 27, 38 - nut; 28 - plug; 29 - cotter pin; 30 - washer; 31, 32, 33 - spacers; 34 - rocker shaft; 35 - left rocker arm; 36 - right rocker; 37 - adjustment screw.

CHECKING THE CONDITION OF THE CRANK MECHANISM

Cylinders. After removal from the engine and washing, the cylinder mirrors are checked visually for broken ribs, scratches, and scoring. If necessary, smooth out scratches and scratches with fine sandpaper rubbed with chalk and coated with oil.

After cleaning, rinse thoroughly so that no traces of abrasive remain. Minor risks that do not interfere with further work should not be identified.

If there is a ledge in the upper part of the cylinder mirror (at the boundary of the upper compression ring), it is necessary to remove the ledge with a crescent scraper or a special abrasive tool. This work is done carefully so as not to remove the metal below the ledge.

The suitability of the cylinder for further work based on its geometric dimensions is determined by measuring the internal diameter with an indicator bore gauge.

The wear of the cylinder is characterized by the amount of wear of the first belt (the average value from measurements in four directions). In its belt, wear is usually greatest; in addition, the gap at the junction of the first compression ring depends on the size in this belt.

To distribute the gap between the piston skirt and the cylinder, the average diameter from measurements in four directions to the fourth and fifth belts is taken.

If the cylinder diameters increase by more than 76 mm when measuring along the first belt, the cylinders must be repaired.

Engine cylinders must be processed to a diameter of 76 + ° ° 2.o,o1 mm and sorted into three groups:

3)76.21-76.22 mm.

The processed cylinder mirror must meet the following requirements:

ovality and taper of the cylinder is allowed up to 0.015 mm; cleanliness of processing Ñ 96; runout of the landing ends relative to the diameter 76.20 +0.02 –0.01 mm no more than 0.03 mm at the extreme points; misalignment of surfaces with a diameter of 76.20 +0.02 –0.01 and 86 –0.015 –0.023 mm is not more than 0.04 mm.

After treatment, the surface of the cylinder mirror should be thoroughly washed.

If it is necessary to replace cylinders, spare parts are supplied with cylinders of nominal sizes, sorted into three groups. The group designation is applied with paint (red, yellow, green) on the upper ribs.

Pistons. When visually inspecting the pistons, you must especially carefully inspect them for cracks. If there are cracks, replace the piston.

Deep rubs and traces of scuffing or sticking should be cleaned.

To replace pistons, pistons of normal and one repair size with selected piston pins and retaining rings are produced as spare parts. Pistons of repair sizes are increased in outer diameter by 0.20 mm compared to the nominal ones.

Piston rings are critical engine parts. Their technical condition largely determines the overall technical condition of the engine and its performance indicators.

It should be taken into account that when an engine operates with heavily worn rings, the wear of engine parts sharply increases, since this deteriorates the lubrication conditions for the cylinders and pistons due to gas leaks into the crankcase; The oil in the crankcase dilutes and oxidizes.

Before checking, thoroughly clean the piston rings from carbon and sticky deposits, and then rinse them. The main check is to determine the thermal clearance in the piston ring lock inserted into the cylinder. The piston ring is inserted into the cylinder, pushing it with the bottom of the piston to a depth of 8-10 mm. The gap at the joint of the ring should not exceed 1.5 mm.

The running-in of the piston ring along the cylinder is also checked. If there is a trace of gas breakthroughs, the piston ring must be replaced.

Piston rings Spare parts of normal and one repair size are supplied in sets for one engine.

Repair size rings differ from nominal size rings in that their outer diameter is increased by 0.20 mm, and are installed only on repair pistons when the cylinders are ground to the appropriate size.

Before installation, clean the piston rings from preservation and rinse thoroughly, then select them for each cylinder.

Installation of the rings begins with the lower oil scraper ring; Two radial and axial expander disks are installed in the lower groove.

Then install the lower compression ring and the upper one. When installing the lower compression ring, the rectangular chamfer made on the outer surface must face down.

Lubricate the pistons and piston rings with oil and once again check that the rings move easily in the grooves.

Rice. 6. Crankshaft and its supports: 1 - centrifuge body; 2 - drive gear of the balancing mechanism; 3 - front support; 4 - front liner; 5, 6 - lower and upper supports; 7 - coupling bolt; 8 - rear liner; 9, 17 - oil deflector; 10 - flywheel; 11 - ring gear; 12 - cuff; 13 - mounting pin; 14 - washer; 15 - clip; 16 - flywheel bolt; 18, 19 - stopper; 20, 29 - bolt; 21 - middle support liner; 22 - crankshaft; 23 - front oil deflector; 24 - camshaft drive gear; 25 - body oil deflector; 26 folding washer; 27 - housing bolt; 28 - washer; 30 - pin; 31 - bearing; 32 - seal; 33 - stopper.

Piston pins rarely replaced without replacing the pistons, since their wear is usually very small. Therefore, spare parts are supplied with pistons complete with piston pins, selected according to the color markings applied to the piston boss and the inner surface of the pin (the kit also includes retaining rings). The marking indicates one of four size groups, differing from each other by 0.0025 mm.

It is prohibited to install a piston pin into a new piston of a different size group, as this leads to deformation of the piston and possible scuffing.

The new piston pin is selected according to the bushing of the upper end of the connecting rod according to the color markings of four size groups. On the connecting rod, the marking is applied with paint at the upper head.

The mating of the new piston pins with the connecting rod bushings is checked by pushing a thoroughly wiped piston pin into the dry wiped bushing of the connecting rod upper head with slight force. There should be no noticeable play. To achieve such a match, it is allowed to install parts of adjacent size groups.

Connecting rods checked by visual inspection for the absence of nicks, cracks, dents; condition of the surfaces and dimensions of the bearings of the lower and upper heads of the connecting rod, parallelism of the axes of the lower and upper heads.

In the absence of significant mechanical damage, small nicks and dents can be carefully cleaned out, and the connecting rod will be suitable for further work. If there is significant mechanical damage or cracks, the connecting rod must be replaced.

The connecting rod bolts should not show even slight signs of pulling; The size must be the same over the entire cylindrical surface of the bolt.

The connecting rod bolt thread should not have any dents or signs of breakage. Installing the connecting rod bolt for further work, even with minor defects, is not allowed, as this can lead to breakage of the connecting rod bolt and, as a result, a serious accident. The bearing of the upper head of the connecting rod is a bronze bushing made of tape 1 mm thick. Its wear resistance is usually high, and the need for replacement, even during major repairs, rarely arises. However, in emergency cases, in the presence of sticking or scuffing, the bushing is pressed out and replaced with a new one. Spare parts are supplied with a blank rolled from tape, which is pressed into the upper head of the connecting rod, and then stitched with a smooth brooch in size 21.300-21.330 mm.

Main connecting rod bearing shells.

When deciding whether to replace the bearing shells, it should be borne in mind that the diametric wear of the bearing shells and journals of the crankshaft does not always serve as a determining criterion. During engine operation, a significant amount of solid particles of wear products, abrasive particles sucked into the engine cylinders with air, etc. are embedded in the antifriction layer of the liners. Therefore, such liners, often having insignificant diametrical wear, can cause further accelerated and increased wear of the crankshaft journals. It should also be taken into account that connecting rod bearings operate under more severe conditions than main bearings. The intensity of their wear is slightly higher than the intensity of wear of the main bearings. Thus, to resolve the issue of replacing liners, a differentiated approach is required in relation to main bearings. In all cases of satisfactory condition of the surface of the main bearing shells, the criterion for the need for replacement is the size of the diametrical clearance in the bearing. When assessing the condition of the liners by inspection, it should be borne in mind that the surface of the antifriction layer is considered satisfactory if there are no scuffs, chipping of the antifriction alloy, or foreign materials pressed into the alloy.

Crankshaft. Wash the crankshaft removed from the engine (Fig. 14) thoroughly, paying attention to cleaning the internal oil cavities. Blow them out with compressed air. Then inspect the condition of the main and connecting rod journals of the crankshaft for the absence of rough marks, nadirs, signs of sticking or increased wear. Also inspect the condition of the pins fixing the position of the flywheel - they should not be deformed; Check for cracks on the end of the crankshaft at the base of the pins. Check the integrity of the threads for the flywheel bolt and the bolt securing the centrifugal oil purifier housing.

If the crankshaft is in normal condition, based on the results of the inspection, its suitability for further operation will be determined by measuring the main and connecting rod journals.

This carburetor model was developed by the engineers of Pekar JSC, and it is still produced today at the facilities of this enterprise. The K-133 carburetor is intended for installation on the MeMZ-245 engine, which is equipped with ZAZ-1102 Tavria cars.

The carburetor has one chamber, but it has two diffusers. The flow of the combustible mixture in it is falling, and the float chamber is balanced. The carburetor is also equipped with an EPH system, a semi-automatic starting device, and brass floats. Let's take a closer look at this model, find out how to repair, maintain and adjust it.

Device

The K-133 carburetor consists of three main parts - the float chamber cover, the middle part, as well as the lower pipe and the mixing chamber.

The lid has a built-in air damper. There is also a fuel filter and a needle valve for the float mechanism. Additionally, a parking unbalance valve and a nozzle for the accelerator pump system are installed in the unit cover. It is equipped with an air jet for the idle system.

This carburetor model has an air damper, which is connected to the throttle through hinges. The part is driven through rods. The button with which you can control the position of the damper is located in the car on the floor, in the tunnel. If the damper is in the fully closed position, the throttle is opened by means of rods. In this case, the gap is 1.6-1.8 mm. It is this gap that allows you to obtain the most optimal ratio of fuel and air when starting a cold engine.

The middle part of this unit consists of a float chamber, as well as air channels into which diffusers are pressed. It includes floats, an accelerator pump system, power mode and accelerator pump economizer valves, main jets of the main metering system, and an idle jet.

A throttle valve is installed inside the mixing chamber of the K-133 ZAZ carburetor. The throttle is controlled via a pedal in the cabin. The damper is connected to the pedal via mechanical rods. In addition to the throttle valve, the mixing chamber includes an EPH. This unit is a closed metal housing, inside of which there is a rubber diaphragm. The cover has a special screw that can be used to regulate the amount of fuel mixture that will be supplied to the engine during operation of the K-133 carburetor. The travel of the economizer valve is also limited by this screw. This is the main element that allows you to regulate the vacuum formed in the intake tract.

This carburetor also has a microswitch mounted on a special bracket. How effectively the EPH system will work depends very much on the correctness of its installation.

The electric valve is located on the horizontal part of the shelf, to the right of the ignition coil. It is necessary to enable or disable the possibility of supplying vacuum to the diaphragm of this valve. EPHH is controlled by a control unit. It can be found on the right side on the wall of the engine compartment. The main function of the block is to control the solenoid valve depending on what speed the engine is currently running at.

Starting device

The starting system is equipped with a pneumatic corrector and a rod system. All this forms a semi-automatic system that controls the air damper.

Lid

The cover of this carburetor model includes a tube for unbalancing the float chamber, as well as a fuel needle valve connected to the float. It is also equipped with fittings for supplying and draining fuel into the tank. It also has a fine fuel filter.

Float chamber

The camera body contains the main air channel and a small diffuser, as well as a gasket and a locking latch. In addition, the body also has a large diffuser. The small one has a jumper in which channels are made that perform the function of GDS nozzles and an economizer.

GDS

This is the main metering system of the K-133 carburetor. It consists of a fuel and air jets and an emulsion tube.

Idle system

This carburetor has an independent idle system. It contains fuel and air jets, as well as adjusting elements. This is a quantity screw and a quality screw of the fuel mixture.

Acceleration pump

The unit is connected to an economizer. These elements are combined by one drive, which, in turn, is also connected to the throttle valve drive. In the K-133 carburetor, the accelerator pump is equipped with a check valve, a spray nozzle and a discharge valve.

Adjustment

Like other carburetor models, the K-133 has ample opportunities for adjustment and configuration. Here you can adjust the fuel level in the float chamber, starting gaps, and idle speed. You can adjust fuel consumption and dynamic characteristics, but in this case you will have to select jets and drive the car until a suitable combination is found.

This is done as follows. With the carburetor removed, the throttle clearance can be adjusted. So, when the damper is completely closed, the gap should be up to 1.8 mm. If it goes beyond these limits, then it is adjusted to the desired value by bending the rod.

The air damper must fit snugly against the wall of the air gap chamber. This gap should be no more than 0.25 mm. The air damper drive is adjusted on the carburetor installed on the car. First, pull out the damper control lever, and then retract it by about 2 mm. Next, close the damper completely. After this, the drive is inserted into the air damper drive lever and the fastening screw is tightened. Then you need to secure the cable sheath to the bracket.

After this, you can check how the air damper works. If the lever is fully extended, the damper should be completely closed. If this is not the case, then the adjustment should be continued until the result is normal.

Then close the throttle valve completely, tighten the cable with the screw, install the tension spring and check how tightly the throttle valve is closed. If it is completely closed, then there should be no loosening of the cable.

Idle adjustment

To set up stable engine operation in idle mode, you need to perform the following operations. Start the engine and warm it up to 75 degrees. Then the screw responsible for the quality of the mixture is tightened almost all the way. Afterwards, the quality screw is unscrewed approximately 2.5 turns. Next, use the quantity screw to set the speed to 950-1050 rpm.

If it is not possible to set up stable idle speed, then cleaning or repairing the K-133 carburetor is necessary. Usually the needles are changed. You should also clean the fuel and idle air passages with compressed air or carburetor cleaning fluid. Sometimes it may be necessary to replace spare parts - all this is in repair kits that are sold today, like the carburetor itself.

Conclusion

Over the years of operation, this carburetor has proven itself to be a simple and reliable device. It can be used on ZAZ cars. The K-133 carburetor repair kit, as well as the unit itself, can be purchased in automobile stores and online markets.

The carburetor ZAZ 968m is an iconic Soviet car. It replaced the famous “humpbacked” one, and in the late 80s it was restyled. There are still fans of such machines in many countries, so many of them are very often interested in issues of operation and repair. Today you will learn how to configure and adjust the ZAZ 968M carburetor with your own hands.

What kind of carburetor was Zaporozhets equipped with?

Depending on the model range and year of manufacture, the ZAZ could be equipped with a K-127 or K 133A carburetor. If you carefully study them, you can find huge differences from the same K 133. These devices were not equipped with idle economizers, and the float chamber is made in such a way that it is connected to the atmosphere and is clearly balanced.

The ZAZ 968m carburetor consists of 3 main parts:

Mixing chamber with lower pipe;
Float chamber;
Float chamber cover.

All the necessary mechanisms are located in the lid. Among them are the accelerator pump nozzle, air dampers, the needle valve of the float chamber, as well as the idle jet.

The float chamber and diffuser are pressed into the middle part. It also contains a float and a float chamber valve.

The air damper control button is located in the floor tunnel of the vehicle. It is connected to the throttle control rods and when opened, it also opens slightly by 1.6 mm. The manufacturer adjusted these values at release, but over time they may lose their settings.

The carburetor was used not only on ZAZ cars, but also on LuAZ. Therefore, the entire setup process is no different on both cars.

Carburetor K-127 double-diffuser, vertical, with falling flow.

BASIC TECHNICAL DATA OF THE CARBURETOR
Mixing chamber diameter, mm:	32
Diffuser diameter, mm: small big	8 22
Balancing hole diameter, mm	3,2
Nozzle throughput, cm3/min: main fuel - fuel idle -	225±W 52±1.5
Jet diameter, mm: main air force - air idle - accelerator pump nozzle - economizer -	1,2+0.06 1,4+0.03 0,6+0.06 0,75+0.06
Gap between the bar and the nut of the economizer drive rod when the throttle valve is fully open, mm:	3.0±0.5
Fuel level in the float chamber (from the top plane of the float chamber), mm:	22±1.0
Weight of the float assembly, g.:	13.3±0.7
Fuel supply valve needle stroke, mm:	1,2+0,3

Reasons for adjusting the ZAZ 968M carburetor?

No carburetor adjustment is made unless necessary.

Therefore, it is performed if the car has the following list of faults:

Unstable idle;
Increased or decreased speed;
High fuel consumption;
Low engine response;
Engine after major overhaul.

All this can be caused by an unregulated carburetor or ignition system.

Many lovers of LuAZ or ZAZ cars perform this procedure to increase power, but it must be remembered that when performing such a setting, fuel consumption can seriously increase, and the engine life will be reduced. Our task is to consider the standard, most economical carburetor adjustment while maintaining the required internal combustion engine power.

Preparatory work before adjusting the carburetor ZAZ 968M

Before adjusting the device, you need to make sure that the motor is in full working order. Otherwise, the whole procedure will be meaningless. To do this, pay attention to the clearances in the valve mechanisms. They must be nominal. If necessary, adjust them.

The next element is the correct operation of the ignition system. The advance angle should be set as required, and the ignition coil, cables and spark plugs should be in good condition. If necessary, these elements must be replaced.

It is best to put the car in a warm garage if the work is carried out in winter. It should stand on level ground. The gearbox is in neutral and the wheels are locked with the parking brake.

When preparing the ZAZ 968M carburetor for maintenance, the carburetor should be adjusted after the appropriate air and fuel jets have been purchased.

Setting up the carburetor ZAZ 968M

To begin, remove the unit from the car; it must undergo complete disassembly, cleaning and further assembly, taking into account certain requirements. The first is the gap between the throttle valve and the mixing chamber. Ideally, it should be in the range of 1.6 mm to 1.8 mm with the damper fully open. To set these values, you need to bend the rod in the desired direction. When the flap is closed, it should fit very tightly. Otherwise there will be excess air leaks. Adjust the gap by grinding or by bending the rod.

K-133A carburetor throttle valve (correct and incorrect position): a - incorrect; b - correct; 1 - outlet of the idle emulsion channel; 2 - air channel; 3 - emulsion channel; 4 - mixture quality adjustment screw; 5 - screw for adjusting the amount of mixture.

Now you can install the carburetor on the car. The installation must be accompanied by strict compliance with safety regulations. The next step is adjusting the air damper. To do this, the control lever is fully extended and the flap is closed. In this position, the cable must be tightened. It’s easy to check the operation - if you press the lever, the damper is completely closed, if you pull it out, it opens all the way.

The throttle valve control drive is adjusted in a similar way. After this, all the springs and rods of the carburetor system are assembled. The operation of the mechanism must be checked by simulating its operation.

How to adjust the idle speed of a ZAZ 968M carburetor?

The next important step is setting the idle speed. The fuel consumption of the car depends on it. The level in the float chamber is not set. You can configure it using the two most common options. The manufacturer has provided both methods.

First, start the engine and warm it up to nominal temperature. It is quite possible that the speed will be incorrect - this is normal, because the idle speed has not yet been adjusted. The quality screw is then tightened all the way, but not tightened. The engine should stall. Now we turn it out two turns and start it again, and with the quantity screw we set the speed corresponding to the value of 900-950 rpm.

You can finish here, but there is a second option that will allow you to achieve the most efficient operation of the device. Turn the quality screw again so that the speed is at its maximum. After this, the quantity screw is tightened to the nominal value. This loop can be performed twice. As a result, you will get a fairly high-quality adjustment to preserve the maximum amount of fuel. The same is true for the LuAZ automotive power system.

That's all. As you can see, adjusting the carburetor with your own hands is not such a difficult job. This procedure must be performed at every vehicle maintenance to avoid problems with it in the future.

Rice. Carburetor air filter: 1 - valve; 2 - valve seat; 3 - sealing gasket; 4 - spring; 5 - glass; 6 - nylon packing; 7 - air cleaner housing; 8 - receiving pipe; 9 - crankcase ventilation tube; 10 - ventilation tube for the carburetor float chamber; 11 - pipe to the carburetor; 12 - spring latch; 13 - lock handle; 14 - pallet; 15 - swirler; 16 - oil deflector, A - purified air; B - unpurified air; B - oil.

To wash the filter packing, clean the pan 14 and change the oil in it, disconnect the filter housing from the engine, loosen the clamp on the outlet pipe and the lock clamp on the tension band. Disconnect the pan from the air cleaner housing 7; wash the packing with gasoline or kerosene and let it drain.

Pour out the contaminated oil from the pan and wash the pan with kerosene or gasoline.

Pour 0.2 liters of fresh oil used to lubricate the engine into the cleaned pan. Filled in this way (attach the tray with locks to the top of the air cleaner.

When installing the filter, pay attention to the reliability of the seal of the outlet pipe and the carburetor neck in order to avoid the intake of contaminated air.

Fuel pump care

Caring for the fuel pump involves periodically cleaning it from contamination, for which you need to remove its cover and strainer.

You should also monitor the tightness of the gas pipelines, their condition, the tightening of the gas pipeline clamps, the serviceability of the diaphragm and pump valves.

When removing the pump, it is necessary to ensure that the gaskets are intact.

Rice. Fuel pump: 1 - cover; 2 - filter; 3 - intake valve seat plug; 4 - suction valve; 5 - upper body; 6 - upper cup of the diaphragm; 7 - internal remote gasket; 8 - diaphragm; 9 - lower cup of the diaphragm; 10 - lever; 11 - lever spring; 12 - rod; 13 - lower body; 14 - balancer; 15 - eccentric; 16 - axis of the lever and balancer; 17 - filler lever; 18 - pump gasket; 19 - sealing and adjusting gasket; 20 - pump drive rod guide; 21 - rod; 22 - spacer; 23 - remote gasket; 24 - discharge valve seat plug; 25 - discharge valve

In case of replacement of gaskets, pump, spacer 22, guide 20 or rod 21, it is necessary to use adjusting shims 19 to ensure normal operation and performance of the fuel pump.

Before installing the pump, it is necessary to press the lever 17 of the filler until the useful stroke begins and measure the distance between the lever and the mating plane of the pump body. The amount of sinking should be within the range of A-1.0-1.5 mm.

Then you should install guide 20 with rod 21, spacer 22 and spacers 18 and 19 on the studs of the timing gear cover and, having secured them, turn the crankshaft until the maximum protrusion of rod 11. In this case, the rod should be pressed against the pump drive cam.

The rod 21 should protrude above the spacer 22 with spacer 18 by 1.7-2.8 mm more than the filler lever 17 recesses when choosing free play. The size of the protruding rod is regulated by a set of shims 19. Example: the filler lever is recessed by A-1.5 mm.

Accordingly, the amount of protrusion of the rod should be: 1.5 mm+(1.7-2.8) mm 3.2-4.3 mm.

Carburetor care

Carburetor care involves checking the tightness of all connections, plugs and plugs, removing sediment from the float chamber, as well as periodically, at least twice a year, cleaning and flushing parts, jets and carburetor channels. It is recommended to flush the carburetor with gasoline, and in case of very strong contamination with resinous substances - with acetone. Washed parts; The jets and channels need to be blown out with a stream of compressed air. It is absolutely unacceptable to use wire, even soft wire, to clean jets.

Engine malfunction due to clogged carburetor jets and valves is extremely rare. However, if clogged, they should only be cleaned by blowing with compressed air.

Rice. K-133 carburetor diagram: 1 - float chamber cover; 2 - accelerator pump; 3 - spray; 4 - fuel supply screw; 5 - air damper; 6 - small diffuser with a spray; 7 - large diffuser; 8 - plug; 9 - emulsion tube; 10 - main system air jet; 11 - idle fuel jet; 12 - idle air jet; 13 - main system fuel jet; 14 - fuel filter; 15 - fuel valve; 16 - float chamber body; 17 - float; 18 - plug; 19 - adjusting screw of the autonomous idle system (ASXX); 20 - ventilation fitting; 21 - electromagnetic valve for switching on the forced idle economizer system (EFCH); 22 - operational idle speed adjustment screw; 23 - forced idle economizer (EFCH); 24 - valve of the forced idle economizer system (IAC); 25 - ASKH sprayer; 26 - outlet hole of the idle system; 27 - throttle valve; 28 - mixing chamber housing; 29 - fitting in the mixing chamber from the solenoid valve; 30 - check valve; 31 - economizer valve: 32 - economizer valve rod with spring; 33 - accelerator pump drive rod; 34 - float chamber ventilation valve; 35 - ventilation valve; 36 - electronic control unit; 37 - ignition coil; 38 - breaker-distributor; 39 - bracket; 40 - microswitch; 41 - microswitch mounting screws; 42 - microswitch drive lever; 43 - drive lever; 44 - throttle lever; A, B, D - subdiaphragm cavities; B - supradiaphragmatic cavity; G - 0.3-1.4 mm gap between levers

Access to the main fuel jet 13 opens from the outside of the carburetor after unscrewing plug 18, to economizer valve 31 - after removing float chamber cover 1, to idle fuel jet 11 - after unscrewing plug 14.

Rice. Carburetor K-143 (front view): 1 - fuel supply pipe; 2 - lever; 3 - valve stem; 4 - main jet plug; 5 - valve lever fastening screw; 6 - traction; 7 - accelerator pump drive lever; 6 - parking ventilation valve drive lever; 9 - parking ventilation valve lock nut; 10 - vacuum supply tube to the solenoid valve; 11 - screw for adjusting the autonomous idle system (ASXX); 12 - vacuum supply tube to the economizer valve АСХХ; 13 - drain pipe of the float chamber parking ventilation valve

Rice. Carburetor K-133 (rear view): 1 - float chamber parking ventilation valve tube, drain; 2 - upper lever with the air damper axis; 3 - lever with the air damper axis; 4 - telescopic air damper rod; 5 - vacuum supply tube to the solenoid valve; 6 - fitting to the vacuum regulator of the ignition distributor; 7 - vacuum supply tube to the economizer valve of the autonomous idle system; 8 - operational adjustment screw АСХХ; 9 - forced idle economizer (EFCH); 10 - thrust throttle lever; 11 - throttle valve drive lever; 12 - lower air damper lever; 13 - microswitch drive lever; 14 - fuel nozzle plug; 15 - air damper thrust is rigid; 16 - microswitch; 17 - main system air jet plug; 18 - bracket for fastening the air damper cable sheath; 19 - filter plug; 20 - screw securing the air damper cable

The following carburetor parts may become clogged:

fuel jet 13. In this case, the carburetor float chamber will overflow and gasoline will flow into the main air jet 10 of the main metering system, which can cause the engine to stop when the car is moving or when operating at low idle speed and will make it difficult to subsequently start a hot engine;
fuel jet 11 of the idle system, as a result of which the engine will not operate at a low idle speed even with the screw 22 of the operational adjustment of the IAC being almost turned out;
main fuel jet 13 or economizer valve 31, while the engine will not develop power;
screw 4 of the nozzle 3 of the accelerator pump, in this case, interruptions in engine operation occur when the car starts from a stop and when the throttle valve is sharply opened.

The carburetor must be disassembled carefully so as not to damage the parts. If the carburetor is disassembled during its subsequent reassembly, you should pay attention to the presence and serviceability of the sealing gaskets under the jets and plugs.

If a warm engine does not start well, check the start of opening of the parking ventilation valve 34. To do this you need:

adjust the crankshaft speed when idling the engine to 950-1050 min-1 (rpm);
use rod 6 to adjust the stroke of valve rod 3 and, therefore, the opening of the valve by 2-4 mm from its closed position, while lever 8 of the valve drive must be pressed against lever 7 of the accelerator pump drive. After adjustment, secure the rod with nut 9.

The need to check the autonomous idle system arises when there are interruptions in the idle speed.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure the correct installation and operation of the microswitch and the tightness of the electro-pneumatic valve.

To determine the correct installation and check the operation of the microswitch, you need to connect a tester or a power source with a light bulb to its contacts, having first disconnected the wires from the microswitch.

After slightly releasing lever 42, pressing and releasing the lever, check the operation of the microswitch. When you press the microswitch lever, the control light should go out, and when released, it should light up. Release lever 42, then, turning lever 43 of the throttle valve drive within the free play G = 0.3-1.4 mm between it and the antenna of lever 44, check the correct installation of the microswitch; The indicator light comes on when freewheeling is selected and goes out when turning to the right. In this case, the throttle axis must be stationary, and the lever must move without jamming.

If the microswitch is installed incorrectly, you should loosen the screws 41 and, moving the microswitch in the groove of the lower screw, fix it in the required position, tighten the screws that secure it and check again. During operation, the microswitch cannot be repaired.

The tightness of the solenoid valve is checked by supplying air under a pressure of 0.08-0.085 MPa (0.8-0.85 kgf/cm2) into the side fitting, while the ventilation fitting must be closed.

When a vacuum of 0.085 MPa (0.85 kgf/cm2) is supplied to the vertical fitting, the solenoid valve should open with the voltage of 12 V connected and close with the voltage removed.

If a voltage of 12 V is connected when the engine is not running, a characteristic click should be heard.

With the engine idling, the valve is checked by disconnecting the wire. In this case, the engine should stop.

The electronic control unit 36 has two limit limits. When the engine crankshaft speed increases to more than 1500-1800 min-1 (rpm), the positive potential at terminal 1 is switched off; when the frequency decreases below 1500 min-1 (rpm), a positive potential appears at terminal 1. In this way, the functionality of the unit is checked, and before doing this, be sure to remove the plug from the microswitch. The absence of a positive potential at terminal 1 (if there is a positive potential at terminal 2) indicates a malfunction of the unit and the need to replace it.

In the event of a failure of the forced idle economizer system, it is necessary to de-energize the system and connect tubes 5 and 7 with a flexible hose; the carburetor will operate according to the generally accepted scheme without an electronic control unit.

Accelerator pump care

The need to check the operation of the accelerator pump arises when there are noticeable “failures” in the operation of the carburetor (delay in response during transient conditions). To check the pump, remove the float chamber cover, unscrew screw 4 of the accelerator pump, and, pressing the throttle lever, make sure that gasoline is supplied to the open hole. If gasoline is supplied, the valve and nozzle should be blown out and reinstalled. If gasoline does not flow, flush the chamber and ensure smooth operation of the accelerator pump piston.

The need to check the tightness of the fuel supply valve arises when there is an overflow of gasoline, gasoline leaking through the accelerator pump drive rod and in other places, or increased fuel consumption.

Rice. Float with fuel valve: 1 - float; 2 - tongue for setting the level; 3 - float travel limiter; 4 - float axis; 5 - fuel supply valve seat; 6 - float chamber cover; 7 - fuel supply valve needle; 8 - sealing washer

To check the tightness of the valve, it is necessary to remove the float chamber cover and check the tightness of the valve. If necessary, replace sealing washer 8 or the fuel valve assembly.

To avoid destruction of the sealing washer, the following is not allowed:

a) wash the valve with acetone or other solvents;
b) press float 1 on valve needle 7 when adjusting the fuel level in the float chamber.

When the valve is closed, the float must be positioned so that the longitudinal stampings on it are parallel to the plane of the connectors when the cover is inverted.

The position of the float is adjusted by bending the stop tongue 2, at the same time it is necessary to set the needle stroke of the fuel supply valve to 1.2-1.5 mm by bending the float stroke limiter 3.

Checking the gasoline level in the float chamber. After each disassembly and reassembly of the carburetor, as well as periodically during the operation of the car, check and, if necessary, set the gasoline level in the float chamber 21-23.5 mm below the plane of the connector between the body and the carburetor cover.

Rice. Checking the fuel level in the carburetor float chamber: 1 - scale ruler; 2 - glass tube; 3 - fitting; 4 - gasket; 5 - carburetor

The level of gasoline in the float chamber can be determined using a glass tube 2 with a diameter of at least 9 mm, connected by a rubber tube to a specially made fitting 3, which is screwed into the bottom of the float chamber instead of a drain plug.

To check the gasoline level, there is a convex mark on the wall of the float chamber housing.

After screwing the fitting into the hole closed by the drain plug, the glass tube is held in a vertical position, pressing it against the wall of the float chamber body, and gasoline is pumped into the carburetor using the manual pumping lever.

Using ruler 1, measure the distance from the upper plane of the float chamber to the fuel level in the float chamber (to the bottom of the meniscus).

After checking the level, you must install the drain plug.

Carburetor adjustment when the engine is running at low idle speed

Economical engine operation largely depends on proper carburetor adjustment when the engine is running at low idle speed. This adjustment is made on a warm engine - the oil temperature is at least 60-70°, using screw 8 of the operational adjustment.

The engine speed when idling is set to 950-1050 min-1 (rpm).

When using the K-133A carburetor, the forced idle economizer 9 (EPHH), microswitch 16 and solenoid valve 21 are not installed on the vehicle. Adjusting the crankshaft speed at idle is similar to the adjustment on the K-133 carburetor.

Caring for a gasoline sump

Maintenance of the gasoline sump (installed on the left side member under the floor of the car) consists of draining the water and sediment, as well as washing the filter element (set of plates), for which you need to unscrew the bolt on the sump cover and remove the housing along with the filter element. When disassembling the sump, it is important not to damage the gasket that ensures the seal of the housing. To drain the sediment from the filter, you need to unscrew the drain plug at the bottom of the housing, drain the sediment and rinse the filter with clean gasoline.

Ignition coil care

During operation, you must do the following:

Avoid contamination of the plastic cover, terminals and wires; At each technical inspection, wipe the cover with a cloth - dry or soaked in clean gasoline.
Do not loosen the fastening of the wires to the cover terminals.
Protect the coil from mechanical damage; A crack in the cover or a dent in the casing can damage the coil.

At each technical inspection, clean the ventilation holes of the resistor located between the legs of the coil mounting clamp from dirt.

Caring for the ignition distributor

During operation, it is necessary to maintain the contacts of the distributor in good condition (keep them clean and check the size of the gap between them), monitor the lubrication of the rubbing parts and remember that it is forbidden to use oil from the engine crankcase to lubricate the distributor and that excessive lubrication of the distributor is harmful, since can lead to rapid wear of the breaker contacts and failure of the distributor.

It is necessary to ensure the cleanliness of the cover and distributor housing, as well as the contact of the wire tips in the cover terminals. If the contact is not reliable enough, the plastic of the cover burns out inside the terminal sockets, which leads to failure of the cover and spark plug tips.

When servicing the distributor, you should:

Remove the distributor cap and thoroughly wipe it inside and out with a dry, clean cloth or a cloth soaked in gasoline. Inspect the cover and slider.
Check the reliability of the connection of the low and high voltage wires.
Check the fastening of the distributor vacuum regulator pipelines.
Check if there is any jamming of the contact carbon - resistance in the cover.
Turn the cap of the lubricant supply to the distributor shaft 1-2 turns. If the oiler cap is screwed in completely, unscrew it and fill it with CIATIM-201 or LITOL-24 lubricant. Lubricate the rubbing parts of the distributor with clean engine oil by placing: 1-2 drops on the axis of the contact lever, 4-5 drops in the cam bushing (removing the slider and the oil seal underneath), 1-2 drops on the cam fillet.
Check the cleanliness of the breaker contacts and, if necessary, remove dirt and oil from them. Contacts should be wiped with chamois soaked in gasoline. Instead of suede, you can use any fabric that does not leave fibers on the contacts, and instead of gasoline, use alcohol. After grinding the contacts, you need to pull the breaker lever away from the fixed contact for a few seconds to allow the gasoline to evaporate.
Check the condition of the working surface of the contacts and, if necessary, clean them. The contacts are cleaned with a special abrasive file or on an abrasive stone with fine grain, removing the lever and the stand with the fixed contact from the distributor. When cleaning the contacts, you need to remove the bump on one of them and somewhat smooth the surface of the other, on which a depression (crater) is formed. It is not recommended to remove this depression completely. After cleaning the contacts to remove dust, the breaker must be blown with dry compressed air, wipe the contacts with a dry, clean cloth (passing it between the contacts) and adjust the gap between them.
Inspect the cam and, if it is dirty, wipe it with a dry, clean cloth and lubricate it with a thin layer of CIATIM-201 lubricant.

Adjusting the gap between the breaker contacts

To ensure normal operation of the ignition system, the gap between the contacts of the breaker must be adjusted within 0.35-0.45 mm or, when diagnosing the engine, the angle of the closed contact is 54-62° along the distributor shaft.

The gap is adjusted as follows. It is necessary to remove the distributor cover 1 and the slider 2 and slowly turn the engine crankshaft with the starting handle to a position where the gap between the contacts 3 of the breaker is greatest, i.e. when the textolite cam 4 of the breaker is installed on the top of the edge of the cam 5. After this, check the gap with a flat feeler gauge between contacts. If the gap does not correspond to the value indicated above, it is necessary to loosen screw 17 and, turning the eccentric 6, set the required gap, then fasten the screw and check the gap again. Then you need to put the cover in place and secure it with latches 8. After adjusting the gap between the breaker contacts, the correct setting of the ignition timing is disrupted. Therefore, the ignition installation must be checked and, if necessary, adjusted.

Ignition installation

Rice. Ignition distributor: 1 - cover; 2 - slider (distributor rotor); 3 - breaker contacts; 4 - moving contact cam; 5 - cam; 6 - eccentric screw, 7 - low voltage terminal; c" latch; 9 - felt brush for lubrication of the cam; 10 - adjustment lever; 11 - nut of the bolt securing the octane corrector plate; 12 - movable octane corrector plate; 13 - bolt of the clamp of the movable plate of the octane corrector; 14 - fixed octane corrector plate; 15 - nut for fastening the fixed octane corrector plate; 16 - cap oiler; 17 - locking screw

Ignition is set according to the MZ mark, indicating the ignition timing in the first cylinder. The opening of the breaker contacts should begin at the moment when the M3 mark on the oil purifier cover coincides with the mounting lug a on the timing gear cover. In this case, slider 2 (distributor rotor) must be located against the distributor electrode with number 1. The order of operations when installing the ignition is as follows:

Remove the distributor cap and rotor, check the gap between the breaker contacts (adjust if necessary). Put the rotor in place.
Set the crankshaft to the position corresponding to the beginning of the compression stroke in the first cylinder.
Slowly turn the engine crankshaft until the M3 mark coincides with the protrusion on the camshaft cover. Make sure that the rotor is against the contact of the cover connected to the wire going to the spark plug of the first cylinder.
Loosen nut 11, set the octane corrector to the zero scale division by turning adjusting lever 10, tighten nut 11 of the bolt securing the octane corrector plates.
Loosen the tightening of bolt 18 of the clamp securing the distributor housing to the movable plate 14 of the octane corrector and turn the housing counterclockwise so that the breaker contacts close.
Take a portable lamp and two insulated wires. Using additional wires, connect one end of the portable lamp plug pin to ground, and the other to the low voltage terminal of the ignition coil, to which the wire going to terminal 7 of the distributor is attached.
Turn on the ignition and carefully turn the distributor housing clockwise until the lamp lights up.
Stop the rotation of the distributor exactly at the moment the light flashes. If this fails, repeat the operation.
While holding the distributor body from turning, tighten bolt 13 of the body mounting clamp, and put cover 1 in place.
Check the connection of the spark plug wires, starting from the first cylinder, in the order 1-3-4-2, counting them counterclockwise. It should be borne in mind that setting the ignition to the M3 mark on the pulley with the octane corrector in the middle position provides the most favorable power and economic performance of the engine only if the appropriate gasoline is used to power it.
However, after each installation of the ignition, adjustment of contacts in the breaker, or replacement of fuel, it is necessary to check the compliance of the ignition timing while the vehicle is moving. The final installation of the ignition is performed using an octane corrector. Warm up the engine at idle speed, and then, moving in fourth gear on a flat road at a speed of 25-30 km/h, accelerate the car by sharply pressing the throttle pedal. If a slight and short-term detonation is observed, then the ignition is considered to be installed correctly.

In case of strong detonation, the “arrow” of the movable plate should be moved towards the “-” sign to reduce the ignition timing, and in the complete absence of detonation - towards the “+” sign.

The largest ignition advance (or retardation) angle, provided by manual adjustment using an octane corrector, is 12° (according to the angle of rotation of the engine crankshaft) relative to the initial setting (5° BTDC).

The engine is very sensitive to the correct setting of the ignition timing; ignition too early or too late leads to engine overheating, loss of power, burnout of valves and pistons.

Spark plug care

During each vehicle maintenance, you must remove the spark plugs and do the following:

Check the condition of the outer and inner parts of the insulator. If there is carbon deposits on the inside (skirt) of the insulator, you need to clean the insulator with a brush or sandblaster. After cleaning the carbon deposits, the spark plugs must be washed in gasoline. It is prohibited to clean carbon deposits from candles with sharp metal objects or to burn candles in an open flame, as this may damage the insulator. If carbon deposits are not removed, the spark plug must be replaced.
Check the gap between the electrodes and, if necessary, adjust it, carefully bending only the side electrode. The gap is 0.6-0.75 mm checked with a round wire feeler gauge. Before unscrewing the spark plugs, you must thoroughly wipe the spark plug socket in the cylinder head from dirt to prevent dirt from getting into the engine. It is advisable to blow out the spark plug sockets with compressed air.
The spark plugs should be unscrewed and tightened using a special socket wrench included in the driver's tool kit. The use of other keys is prohibited, as this may damage the insulator.
You must first screw in the spark plug by hand until it stops, and then tighten it tightly with a wrench with a tightening torque of 35-40 Nm (3.5-4 kgfm). Place a sealing gasket under the spark plug. The absence of a gasket or loose screwing of the spark plug leads to overheating and failure of the spark plug.
It is prohibited to replace A23-1 spark plugs with others with a lower heat rating. Inconsistency in the thermal characteristics of spark plugs leads to unsatisfactory engine performance, burnout of pistons and exhaust valves.