Ferrari

The retractor clicks and the starter does not turn. The starter clicks but doesn't turn: what's the problem? Options for solving the problem

The starter in the design of vehicles ensures the start of the power unit. Therefore, when problems arise with starting, most car owners ask themselves: why did the starter stop turning and why does its retractor not click? Despite the fact that the operation of the engine starting device lasts only a few seconds, its breakdown completely paralyzes the operation of the car, since the engine can be started normally only with a pusher, although this is only possible with a manual transmission (manual gearbox), or with the help of a crooked starter (if it is provided for by the design).

You can determine the cause of a malfunction in the engine starting system and troubleshoot it yourself, especially since this does not require complex diagnostic instruments and tools. But it will be impossible to diagnose the starter’s performance without measuring instruments, the most accessible of which is a multimeter.

Malfunctions and their features

During operation of the power unit starting device, the entire load is transferred to its solenoid relay. Therefore, to the question: why does the starter click, we can answer that the relay begins to function, making characteristic sounds. This indicates a malfunction, since the starter does not work at this moment and does not turn the crankshaft of the car engine. The occurrence of such symptoms is typical for the following situations:

short circuit or burning of the turns of the rotor or stator windings;
deterioration of the bushings, which caused the motor shaft to jam;
breakdown of the rotor to ground.

Without removing the device from the car and completely disassembling it, it will not be possible to detect such malfunctions.

The traction clicks due to the fact that its core moves between the retracting and fixing windings, and if the voltage on the latter is insufficient, it cannot hold on and returns to its original position. The presence of clicks is evidence of unsuccessful attempts by the core to stay in the required position. It will not be possible to start the engine and start moving, because the starter stops turning, and the retractor relay clicks, which does not allow the bendix and flywheel to engage.

Note that if it was not possible to start the vehicle engine the first time, this is not at all evidence of a faulty starter. It is likely that most systems have not yet started working; to do this, you need to turn the ignition key again.

In addition to the solenoid relay, burnt contacts (this is accompanied by a characteristic burning smell and, in some cases, smoke), lack of ground, disruption of the integrity of the electrical network, or a discharged power source can cause problems with the engine starting system. Elimination of these faults is carried out on an individual basis.

Why doesn't the starter turn or click the solenoid relay?

In practice, most of the problems and malfunctions when the starter operates are problems with the electrical part. Mechanical failures are less common. Problems with starting the vehicle's power unit, which are caused by electrical faults.

If you cannot start the car, you need to check its battery for functionality, since the starter is powered from it. If the power supply is insufficiently charged, the characteristic sounds of the engine starting system may be completely absent. You can measure the battery charge using a voltmeter. If it is less than 9V, it is necessary to recharge the battery, otherwise further loss of capacity may negatively affect its operation. If there is no tester, you can determine how charged the battery is by the brightness of the headlights, although this requires some experience. If, when the high beam is on and the ignition key is turned in the lock, the headlights begin to shine weaker, it means that the battery charge has decreased significantly. If you suspect that a charged battery is not powering the car's electrical system, it is necessary to clean its terminals to remove the oxide film from them, which is causing poor contact.

If the starter clicks but cannot turn the engine, you need to test the solenoid relay. In addition to the failure of this part, problems may arise with the power cable. To determine the functionality of the relay, it is recommended to connect it directly to the battery terminals. If the traction works with such a connection, the cause of the problem must be sought in the power system (damage to the wires, burnt relay contacts, a malfunction in the ignition switch). After troubleshooting, the engine starting system will function properly.

Insufficient contact or its absence leads to a loss of current in the vehicle's electrical network, which is why its consumers function incorrectly. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically pay attention to all connections in the on-board network. For normal functioning of the starter, a current of approximately 200A is required. At a lower starting current, only the pull-in winding of the relay is activated. However, the power unit cannot start.

Features of checking the performance of elements of the starting system of a car engine

After visual inspection of the condition of the starting system parts, they begin to dismantle the starter to test its components:

It is possible to determine how worn out the brush assembly is only after disassembling the starter housing. Despite the long service life of the brushes, they still wear out. At the same time, their development on some starter models does not allow the traction relay to be activated. In this case, the clicks it makes will not be heard.
Burning of the windings on the coils can be easily determined both visually and by the presence of a burning smell. Since it makes no sense to restore their functionality, you will have to replace the starter.
It is possible to perform a traction stress test without its housing. To do this, you need to close the two large terminals on the relay using a screwdriver, being careful not to catch the housing elements. The presence of problems with the retractor will be signaled by the beginning of shaft rotation. Note that one of the unpleasant consequences of this is the burning of the relay contact groups. Since they contain a special protective coating to prevent damage, it is not recommended to clean carbon deposits from them. In this case, only a complete replacement of the traction rod is indicated.

In addition to the procedures described above, it is necessary to pay attention to the ignition switch by checking the voltage in it. Often contact is lost in this node due to the coating of the wires with an oxide film and the formation of corrosion areas. To do this, it is enough to clean them, solder them, or replace them.

Results and conclusions

As you can see, in a situation where the starter solenoid relay clicks and the starter does not turn, it will not be difficult to solve this problem. Sometimes it is enough to simply charge the power source, or remove the oxide film from its contacts or wire connections. But, if some elements of the starter fail, it will be cheaper to simply replace it rather than restore it.

Motorists often encounter this problem when the starter clicks but does not turn. But since the starter is one of the most important parts of any car, further operation of the vehicle without a working element of the starting system is, unfortunately, impossible. There are many reasons for a starter malfunction that causes it to make clicking sounds, ranging from broken contacts or a dead battery to a burnt-out relay or broken brushes. More details about the causes of starter malfunction and how to eliminate them will be discussed in this article.

To understand the reasons for the starter malfunction and try to solve the problem, you need to know at least a little about the principle of its operation. Despite the fact that the design features of the part may differ depending on the car model in question, they all function according to the same principle and practically do not differ in design.

The photo shows the starter device on a VAZ car:

As you can see, the unit consists of two main parts - a solenoid relay and an electric motor. The principle of operation of the starter is as follows:

when the key is turned, under the influence of the retractor or, as mechanics also call it, the first winding, the rod and fork move;
the bendix is activated, which is connected to the flywheel crown, or rather, to its gear part. At this moment, the “nickels” are closed inside the relay - special disks that transmit voltage to the second winding. At this stage, characteristic clicks are heard;
turning the key to the next position (“start”) starts the electric motor, the rotation from which goes to the bendix and, accordingly, to the crankshaft of the car engine;
After the engine starts, the ignition key is released. This leads to the loss of power to the holding winding. As a result, the contact discs open. Under the influence of the return spring, the gear leans back, thereby stopping its engagement. The same thing happens with the retractor plug, which returns to its original position.

On a note! The current strength in the starter circuit in normal times reaches 70 Amperes, but if the movement of the crankshaft is difficult, then the readings can increase to 200 Amperes. Therefore, the causal factors due to which the starter does not turn may be located not only in the mechanical, but also in the electrical part of the vehicle components.

Common causes of failure

As practice shows, starter malfunction is most often associated with circuit elements such as the battery, wiring, ignition switch or car engine. Let's consider each reason separately.

Accumulator battery

Inoperative or low battery charge levels are often the cause of the malfunction. Everything is determined quite simply:

Clicks are heard, but the sensors on the dashboard do not go off and the engine does not turn over - the problem is in the battery;

characteristic clicks are heard, but the lights on the dashboard go out - the problem also lies in the battery;

when you turn the key, no characteristic sounds arise, and the “tidy” lights up dimly or the lights don’t light up at all - the battery is completely discharged (carry out diagnostics to check its functionality by turning on the headlights or turn signals).

When the cause of a starter malfunction is a discharged battery, then everything seems to be very simple - charge the battery or “light it”, if possible, and go. But not everything is as simple as it might seem at first glance, because if the battery is discharged once, it can run down again at the most inopportune moment. You need to find out why the battery died.

If the driver simply forgot to turn off the lights, radio or any other consumer, then everything is elementary. The battery needs to be recharged and you are good to go. But everything is much worse if the battery dies on its own and all devices are turned off. In this case, you need to either check the generator for serviceability.

Wiring

The starter switching circuit is simple - the “minus” is located on the car body, and the “plus” is attached to the retractor. To operate the starter, a small cross-section wire comes from the ignition switch. When you turn the key, a typical relay is activated, from which an electrical impulse comes. Therefore, if the starter does not turn, you need to check the wiring for damage, as well as the reliability of the contact connections. Often during operation, the contacts become oxidized or become clogged with dirt, which prevents current from flowing to the starter.

If the cause of the starter malfunction is the ignition switch, then most often this is due to burnt contacts. Such a breakdown leads to a decrease in voltage, due to which the armature is retracted, but this voltage is no longer enough to hold it. As a rule, burning of contacts in the ignition switch is accompanied by the appearance of clicks, although the starter does not turn on.

Engine

There are times when the starter clicks and does not turn, but it is completely intact, as is the wiring. It's all about the engine itself, as its rotation can be difficult. There are several reasons that can make it difficult for the crankshaft to rotate, such as a wedge on the shaft or engine bushing. This requires crankshaft alignment or bushing replacement.

Engine wedge due to piston pin coming out of piston
The reason is in the starter itself

Starter problems can be electrical or mechanical in nature. This may be wear of the rotor support bushings, damage to the power fork, combustion of the winding, malfunction of the bendix, etc. To eliminate these malfunctions, it is necessary to replace non-functioning elements. But first you need to check the starter itself: does it turn, does the solenoid relay work? Below are step-by-step instructions, if followed, you can diagnose the starter.

Table. How to check if the starter is working properly.

Steps, photo Description of actions
Step one Remove the starter from the vehicle. To check its functionality you will need a working battery, connection wires and a screwdriver.
Step two Check the condition of the solenoid relay. Connect the negative of the battery to the starter housing, and connect the positive to the connector on the starter bendix. The relay should be activated when the wire comes into contact with the bendix.
Step three Connect the positive of the battery to the positive of the Bendix. Secure the wire in this position using a fastening nut.
Step four Use a screwdriver (any kind will do) to connect the positive connection between the bendix and the connector. When doing this, you need to hold the starter firmly, since it will rotate and vibrate quickly when starting.
Step five If the starter is working properly, then the breakdown should be looked for elsewhere. After diagnostics, the part must be installed in place.
If with mechanical breakdowns everything is quite simple, then with electrical breakdowns it’s the opposite. Let's look at the most common electrical breakdowns of the starter:

winding break or short circuit. A malfunction of this nature is usually indicated by an unpleasant odor or a change in the color of the winding. In such cases, complete disassembly of the starter and replacement of the damaged part is required. But often it will be much easier to replace the starter itself;

brush wear. To check the starter brushes, you also need to disassemble the starter. If the check shows that the commutator lamellas or starter brushes are worn out, then they need to be replaced;

The starter relay is burnt out. What to do in this case? In fact, there are two options for the development of events. The first is cleaning the relay contacts or replacing them. The second is the application of a special alloy to the contact surfaces. This will protect the contacts from oxidation and electrical erosion. The second option is considered more effective, since the power bus (relay) after repair will last much longer than after regular contact cleaning.

In almost all cases, electrical problems with the starter can be eliminated by replacing the damaged element. But sometimes it is necessary to replace the entire starter, because this is the only way to restore the operation of the car.

If you hear one click

A powerful single click in the starter, after which the starter continues to be at rest, can indicate various reasons, including:

failure of the solenoid relay, resulting in the start blocking;

the contacts on the power cable are burnt;

there is a winding break inside the unit;

damage to starter bushings or brushes;

Bendix malfunctions.

If in most cases the problem is solved by replacing a damaged or worn element, then with the starter bendisk everything is much more complicated.

Bendix - This is an important element of the car’s starting system, which is located in the starter. When it is deformed, problems often arise with starting the engine, so you should devote enough time to servicing the Bendix. As a rule, the most common Bendix malfunction is a broken fork or working gear teeth.

Since the bendix is closely connected to the retractor relay, without full retraction when the starter is turned on, there will be no clutch between the flywheel and the teeth. As a result, the engine will not be able to start. Even if the starter fires the second time, there is no need to ignore this “symptom” and put off a trip to the mechanic until later. You may not be able to start the engine at the most inopportune time and you will have to look for a solution to the problem.

If multiple clicks occur

Only experienced motorists can determine the presence of a malfunction and its cause by the nature of the clicks that occur when starting the engine. If several clicks appear when starting the starter, then the breakdown should be looked for in:

contact violations;

traction relay malfunction;

poor fit of other contacts.

Each component of the engine starting system affects its full operation, therefore, when the first signs of improper operation of the starter appear, you must immediately take appropriate measures (checking all electrical connections, diagnosing the wiring for breakdowns, etc.). As a rule, these measures should be enough to start the engine so that you can get to the nearest service station.

As a conclusion

Before buying a new starter, you need to weigh everything carefully, because such purchases are not always justified. With a competent approach to the problem, the old starter can serve faithfully for many more years. To do this, you need to check the integrity and serviceability of all internal parts, primarily brushes and bushings.

The driver does not always have the opportunity to deliver a non-working car to a service station. In such cases, you need to remove the non-working starter and take it to a specialist. Correct diagnostics will allow you to identify all possible breakdowns, thanks to which you can save a lot of money on purchasing a new starter by replacing only its faulty elements.

immediately release the ignition key after the engine starts;

Don't torture the starter for too long. If after 5-6 attempts you cannot start the car, start looking for a difficult start;

The recommended duration of starter operation is no more than 10 seconds. This rule applies both in summer and winter;

It is necessary to take short breaks between startup attempts. As practice shows, a 30-second pause should be enough.

By following these simple recommendations, you can extend the life of the solenoid relay and the starter itself. If you have interesting stories about starter repair, be sure to share them in the comments with other readers. We will be very grateful for this.

Video - Causes of starter malfunction (if it clicks but does not turn)

Steps, photo	Description of actions
Step one	Remove the starter from the vehicle. To check its functionality you will need a working battery, connection wires and a screwdriver.
Step two	Check the condition of the solenoid relay. Connect the negative of the battery to the starter housing, and connect the positive to the connector on the starter bendix. The relay should be activated when the wire comes into contact with the bendix.
Step three	Connect the positive of the battery to the positive of the Bendix. Secure the wire in this position using a fastening nut.
Step four	Use a screwdriver (any kind will do) to connect the positive connection between the bendix and the connector. When doing this, you need to hold the starter firmly, since it will rotate and vibrate quickly when starting.
Step five	If the starter is working properly, then the breakdown should be looked for elsewhere. After diagnostics, the part must be installed in place.

And then starting the engine. During engagement with the flywheel (braking torque), the car starter takes on an electric current of about 350 A.

This device is designed for short-term operation; prolonged rotation of the starter significantly reduces its service life. Note that a fully serviceable engine starts from the starter almost immediately, without the need to rotate the crankshaft for a long time. In the cold season, up to 2 attempts to start from the starter are allowed.

Read in this article

After turning the ignition key, the starter clicks, but the engine does not turn over with the starter

If the engine does not start from the starter, then there is a high probability of various malfunctions of this device. One common starter problem is that the starter clicks or hums, but does not turn the engine. In other words, the driver turns the ignition key and hears distinct clicks or a hum from the starter instead of starting the engine (the crankshaft does not turn from the starter). Next, we will look at the main reasons why the starter clicks, but the engine does not turn over.

The clicks that the driver hears when trying to start the engine are the clicking of the starter traction relay. The specified starter relay structurally includes two types of windings. One of the windings is called the pull-in winding, the other is called the holding winding.

The starter clicking when starting means that the clicks are coming from the traction relay. This happens because the retractor winding retracts the relay core, but as a result of the reduced voltage on the holding winding, the core releases.

The longer the ignition key is held in the “start” position, the more times the retracting winding will retract the core, and the holding winding will release it.

Such a malfunction is accompanied by the indicated clicking of the starter, which is actually clicks of the traction relay. Let us add that the traction relay (pull-in) has a similar design and operating principle on most vehicles, regardless of the make and model of the car.

The starter clicks or buzzes, but the engine does not catch: the main causes of the malfunction

If there is a malfunction that manifests itself in the form of clicks from the starter when the engine starts, then analysis of the nature of the clicks can indicate the causes of the breakdown. If the starter traction relay clicks constantly:

the battery is discharged, it is necessary to check the charging current;
you should check the tightness of the battery terminals;
there are problems with the “ground”, it is necessary to check the place of contact of the ground with the body or internal combustion engine, it may be necessary to implement additional demining;

If the starter clicks only once and does not turn the engine, then the following are possible:

insufficient fastening of the traction relay to the starter housing;
the contacts in the starter traction relay burned out;
the malfunction is due to poor ground contact;
the starter has broken down;

If checking the fastening of the traction relay does not reveal any abnormalities, then the starter relay should be removed for inspection. A dismountable relay means that after disassembling the device, it is necessary to clean the power contacts. The non-separable traction relay must be clearly replaced if a breakdown is detected.

The absence of malfunctions in the starter traction relay will indicate that it is then necessary to remove the starter itself for detailed diagnostics. Note that the starter clicks, but does not turn, both due to breakdowns of the starter retractor relay, and as a result of its own malfunctions. The most common are:

the power wire that goes from the starter windings to the traction relay may burn out;
The starter brushes have become critically worn. In this case, the brushes require replacement;
jamming of the starter armature occurs due to wear of the starter bushings. The starter bushings will need to be replaced;
a short circuit occurs in the starter armature winding, as well as a break or short circuit in the stator windings;

An element such as the starter bendix should also be mentioned separately. The Bendix may be deformed or the Bendix drive fork may be damaged. Another problem associated with the starter bendix is damage to its teeth. The bendix teeth are jammed, meaning that the device cannot engage the teeth on the flywheel ring.

The bendix is also connected to the retractor core through a special fork. The absence of engagement of the bendix with the teeth of the flywheel ring means that in this case there will be no complete retraction into the winding of the traction relay at the moment of switching on. As a result, the so-called “nickel” will not be able to bridge the power contacts of the relay to supply power to the starter motor.

How to check the starter traction relay yourself

You can check the starter traction relay with your own hands using an autotester. To do this, you first need to measure the voltage from the battery at the starter contact. After this, the tester probe is connected to the starter output, after which it is necessary to turn on the ignition and turn the key to the “start” position.

During measurements, you need to pay attention to the following: if measurements at the input show a voltage that corresponds to the normal charge of the battery, but when the traction relay is activated, the voltage at the output drops 2-3 times, then there is a high probability of burning out the power contacts of the traction relay.

If the traction drive malfunctions, the starter clicks and does not turn the engine. The fact is that burnt contacts cannot transmit voltage completely due to insufficient contact.

If the input voltage corresponds to the voltage of a charged battery and a similar voltage indicator is noted at the output of the traction relay, then the contacts of the traction relay are in perfect order. This indicates that the breakdown occurred in the starter. In the first case, the traction relay should be disassembled, after which the contacts should be cleaned, and the jumper plate should also be cleaned. A non-separable traction relay should be replaced with a new or known-good device. In the second case, you will need to remove the starter for detailed diagnostics and troubleshooting of the device.

Solenoid relay diagnostics

If the starter does not turn when the engine starts, but clicks are heard, the first step is to diagnose the relay itself. It connects to the battery and ignition switch via 2 cables. One of them (thick section) comes from the positive terminal of the battery, and the second (thin section) goes from the positive control terminal of the ignition switch. The relay also has a third terminal (thick section), which connects it to the starter motor.

To diagnose a possible malfunction in the solenoid relay, you need to use a jumper to connect two terminals to which thick wires are suitable. To connect them to each other, you can use a regular screwdriver, wrench or other available tools. Grasp the insulated surface of such a tool and use it to connect the two large terminals (it is important that the “jumper” does not touch any other metal parts under the hood).

If the result of shorting the terminals is the rotation of the starter, then the problem is related to the contact pads in the relay, which could be burned due to the high current supply. In such a situation, it is necessary to replace the relay, since the procedure for cleaning the contacts will take a lot of time, but due to the lack of an alloy of non-ferrous metals on them, which is applied at the factory, they will not work for long.

If the starter clicks but does not turn, poor contacts or wiring problems may be to blame. Most often, a malfunction occurs along the path of current transmission from the positive terminal of the battery to the solenoid relay. The starter requires about 200 Amps to start, but if there are problems in the wiring and contacts, much less current can reach it. This leads to the fact that it is possible to power the solenoid relay (which requires 10 Amps), but there is not enough current to spin up the starter itself.

With such a malfunction, clicks may be heard in series or stop from time to time. If there is such a problem, you need to check the wiring, make sure there is no oxidation on the pads and that they are tightened enough to fully transfer current.

Clicking sounds are heard, but the starter does not turn due to the windings or brush assembly

If the battery, ignition switch, contacts, wiring and starter relay are checked, but it still does not rotate when you turn the ignition key, then the problem is directly in the starter. In such a situation, you will have to completely remove it from the car, disassemble it and evaluate the possibility of repairs. You can also simply replace the starter with a new one.