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How to convert a manual starter to an electric one. Wind generator based on a starter. Does it make sense to use

Starting a motorcycle with a kickstarter can require a lot of effort, which is why many owners of domestic equipment often abandon it in favor of inexpensive foreign analogues. However, Russian motorcycles have their advantages, represented by ease of tuning, low cost of spare parts, as well as low sensitivity to fuel quality and the reliability of most components. That is why experienced owners of two-wheeled domestic vehicles often install an electric starter on a motorcycle - such an operation can make the Ural or Dnepr much more convenient. This also applies to small-capacity budget-class ones, which are also often equipped only with a kickstarter. Let's look at the procedure for installing an electric starter using domestic technology as an example.

Selection of parts

The best option is electric starters from the Kherson plant, which are used in tractor starting engines, as well as in small-class boat engines. However, you need to be very careful in choosing components - components marked ST353, 367 or 369 are suitable for the Ural. You should not purchase the ST366 starter, which was installed on the Zaporozhets - it has a reverse direction and a different shape of the Bendix casing, incompatible with a motorcycle engine . For such an electric starter, you should purchase a crown from the Buran snowmobile - it requires only minimal modification. Be careful - you need a unit with a top-mounted solenoid relay, since, being at the bottom, it will interfere.

It is also possible to install an electric starter from a VAZ-2109 car or a more modern unit from a VAZ-2110, but in this case you will have to make the crown yourself, using a professional metalworking machine. To create a spare part, it is better to use steel grade 40-X or another that meets the hardness standard 35-42 HRC/E. For imported motorcycles, the electric starter must be selected especially carefully - many owners of two-wheeled equipment say that components from industrial generators or powerful garden equipment are a suitable option. However, you will definitely have to grind the crown for the starter yourself, since unification is a distinctive feature of domestic motorcycles.

Installation

There are several options for attaching an electric starter to a boxer motorcycle engine:

  • More powerful and longer gearbox studs are made, after which a duralumin plate with a pre-drilled hole with a diameter of 76 mm for the unit casing is put on them. This option is rarely used due to its low strength and negative impact on the service life of the electric starter;
  • A composite mount in the form of two crescents is made from duralumin, which is welded from below to the gearbox housing. Be careful - during the argon welding process, all rubber elements of the transmission must be removed, but the shafts and covers should be left in place, since their absence can cause serious deformation of the crankcase;
  • A solid duralumin plate is made and welded to the gearbox casing. The bad option is that it forces you to completely remove the contact oil filter, disrupting the normal operation of the transmission.

Additional work

Since the standard electrical system of the Ural motorcycle, as well as most imported vehicles, is not designed to operate equipment with a starter, modifications will have to be made to it. At the slightest drop in ambient temperature, starting problems may arise - the starter will quickly discharge the battery, which will force you to recharge it and subsequently use the pedal. Experienced motorcyclists recommend installing a battery from a Japanese car from the 90s on a two-wheeled vehicle. This battery has compact dimensions and a fairly large capacity - up to 65 Ah.

However, installing a large battery will entail another problem - the generator will not be able to charge such a battery completely, and the starter will again be unable to be used. To resolve this issue, you can use the following technical solutions:

  • Rewind a standard generator to increase its power by 100-200 watts. However, you need to understand that the reliability of such a node will decrease;
  • Installation of a starter is often accompanied by replacing the standard generator with a unit from a light tractor or from a modern model from the Irbit plant;
  • To replace the generator with a similar unit from an imported small car from the 90s - parts from Honda and Daihatsu are ideal.

Modifying the electrical network after installing the starter requires a certain amount of professionalism, since if the wires are connected incorrectly or if the insulation is insufficiently wound, you can simply burn the motorcycle.

Since the generator always loses some of its power over time, the starter may stop working again. To avoid such a problem, it is worth cleaning the brushes of the unit every 10 thousand kilometers, adjusting the clearance of its drive mechanism, and also eliminating minor faults. Also, every 5 thousand kilometers, inspect the wiring - if melted areas or breakdowns begin to appear on it, it is worth installing cables with a larger cross-section.

DIY tuning

The starter installation procedure described above requires fairly good skill and special equipment. Therefore, if you do not have an argon welding machine or a lathe, you should find out in advance where you can use the services of professionals of the appropriate profile. All manufactured fastening parts and gears must have minimum tolerances, since the reliability of the installed electric starter depends on this. The starter itself must be in good technical condition - to make sure of this, it is worth checking the bushings and shaft. If all these conditions are met, the electric starter will serve you for many years, providing maximum convenience for starting your motorcycle engine.

Dear Kulibins, I offer you Lifan engines for walk-behind tractors, homemade products, gas-powered tools and other equipment, possibly with a gearbox and/or starter. From 2.5 hp to 24 hp. T.: 8-912-837-61-17 or PM. Shipping within the Russian Federation.

Roman (Donatas)  how many horses does the engine and gearbox need? starter? lighting coil?

Alexander (Pinaki)  Price of engine with gearbox, 15 hp.

Roman (Donatas)  21600 - with direct gearbox, 22000 - gearbox with clutch

Alexander (Pinaki)  Thank you, but one more question, is it only manual launch?

Roman (Donatas)  with starter

Vyacheslav (Dorkon)  What if we make a quad from this engine, just from what to plug in the gearbox, tell me.

Roman (Donatas)  these are questions for the Kulibins)

Roman (Donatas) PM for price list

Alexander (Pinaki)  9 l. How much does it cost without a ruductor?

Roman (Donatas) sent price lists via PM

Mars (Kristie)  First you need a variator and then a transmission!!!

RiNaT (Klarissa)  You can also have a price list.

Roman (Donatas)  sent

۞ (Leighton)  and I’ll give you the price

RiNaT (Klarissa)  Thank you

Roman (Donatas)  sent

۞ (Leighton)  accepted ATP

Alexander (Pinaki)  If possible, send me the price list.

Alexander (Pinaki)  And one more question. How to pay?

Tags: Do-it-yourself electric starter for a walk-behind tractor video

Installing an electric starter on an engine from a Centaur 10-70 walk-behind tractor.

2 Oct 2015 - 2 min - Uploaded by MotorCraft.UAStarter for walk-behind tractor St R190 195. MotorCraft.UA ... Installing an electric starter on an engine from a walk-behind tractor Centaur 10-70 ...

7 Sep 2014 - 17 min - Uploaded by Vladimir KozakTyazh. walk-behind tractor installation of starter. Vladimir... Do-it-yourself trailer for a walk-behind tractor, detailed description - Duration: 16:47. SERGEY...

How to install an ELECTRIC STARTER on a Ural chainsaw? | Topic author: Sergey

I assembled a moped from the frame of an adult bicycle and a Ural chainsaw. I have a big problem with the starter; when starting, the ratchets keep getting stuck. Please tell me how to fix this or how to add an electric starter?

Denis  I've already fucked. Did not work out. Either I have a problem with my brain, or with my hands, or it’s technically impossible, or all of the above. I would be happy to put a starter there myself.

Dima  It won’t work out for you, it’s easier for you to buy a new chainsaw of this type so that there are no problems later, you need it all together, it won’t work out separately.

Starter for walk-behind tractor: spring and electric, installation and...

The starter for the walk-behind tractor allows the main motor to function properly and quickly... what needs to be done if it fails, and is it worth it with your own hands...

Do-it-yourself starter for a walk-behind tractor video - Production...

DIY tractor from VAZ 2109. Do-it-yourself starter for a walk-behind tractor video. Lunokhod.Net - Electric starter, generator, trolley for walk-behind tractor" ...

The time required for a novice car enthusiast to go from ordinary driving to independently performing repair and restoration work on his car is usually small. And it’s better to prepare for this moment in advance. However, the question immediately arises: “Where to start?” Experienced car owners are mostly unanimous in their answer to this question. From studying the starter device. Why? Everything is very simple.

A car starter is a unit on the reliable functioning of which the stable start of the power unit depends, without which the movement of the car is in principle impossible. In addition, knowledge of the design features of such an important unit, which is the vehicle starter, will allow you not only to perform the starting procedure technically competently, but also to easily identify the sources of problems that arise, and, therefore, eliminate them in a timely manner.

Car starter device

Figure 1, at the beginning of the article, shows the main elements of the starter.

Any automobile starter, which is essentially an electric motor, consists of a fairly large number of structural elements (from four to six dozen) included in its main components:

  • The actual electric motor.
  • Overrunning clutch, or bendix (the latter name, which is the name of the inventor, is most common among car enthusiasts).
  • Solenoid or traction relay (hereinafter referred to as VR).

Understanding the design of a starter as a unit lies in the plane of knowledge of the functional purpose of each of the components, its degree of priority, operational capabilities, etc.

The electric motor, which is the main unit, is functionally designed to transmit torque from its shaft to the crankshaft of the power plant.

The other two nodes are auxiliary, and their functional purpose is:

Longitudinal movement of the overrunning clutch, which in turn ensures the movement of its working gear, caused by the movement of the relay armature;

Closing the contacts of the electric motor at the moment of engagement of the teeth of the flywheel rim with the teeth of the working gear;

  • . Ensuring a reliable connection between the electric motor shaft and the flywheel crown.

Starter circuit

The schematic diagram for ensuring the start of the power unit, in which the starter (item 3) is involved, looks as shown in Fig. 2, and its main elements are: battery (item 1), generator (item 2) and switch (lock ) ignition (item 4).

In addition, in this section of the article, we considered it appropriate to place another diagram that allows for a fairly effective test of the starter’s performance.

To check (on a bench) the mechanical and electrical parameters of the starter, assemble a simple circuit shown in Figure 3. Its elements are:

  • the starter itself (item 1);
  • digital or pointer voltmeter, the scale limit of which is at least 15 Volts (item 2);
  • slider rheostat, approximately 800 Amperes (item 3);
  • digital or pointer ammeter, the shunt value of which is 1000 Amperes (item 4);
  • switch (pos. 5);
  • car battery with a capacity of 55 A/h (item 6).
  • connecting wires with a cross-section of 16.0 square millimeters or more.

Starter operating principle

As mentioned above, the starter, which is an electromechanical device, has an operating principle based on the use of electrical energy received from the car’s battery and converting it into mechanical energy, that is, the energy of the car’s engine.

In this case, the following happens inside the starter and other circuit elements (see Fig. 2):

  • Through the closed contacts of the ignition switch (pos. 4), the current flows to the contacts of the starter relay (pos. 3), and then to the terminals of the VR retractor winding.
  • The armature BP, performing a translational movement inside its (BP) body, moves the overrunning clutch until the teeth of its working gear engage with the teeth of the flywheel ring.
  • Reaching the final position by the VR armature causes the contacts to close, which, in turn, causes current to flow to the electric motor winding and the (holding) relay winding.
  • The starter shaft, transmitting torque to the engine crankshaft (via the flywheel), ensures the start of the power plant.
  • When the flywheel reaches a rotation speed exceeding the rotation speed of the starter motor shaft, the teeth of the Bendix working gear disengage with the ring teeth, and the return spring will ensure that the overrunning clutch returns to its original (before starting) position.
  • Returning the key to the ignition switch stops the supply of current to the starter contacts from the battery, and further operation of the power plant occurs without its (starter) participation.

Summarizing the above, we note that along with knowledge of the design and principle of operation of the starter, a novice car enthusiast absolutely needs to know such characteristics of the starter as: rated power, rated supply voltage, amount of current consumed, shaft speed, torque value, etc.

Video - Design and operation of the starter

And initially the car was born without a starter - the engines were started with a crank, and this was considered the norm. Actually, the cars of the dawn of motorization had enough other, more pressing problems, against the background of which turning the handle before the trip was not the most significant. However, the difficult and unsafe starting of the engine by hand was still an obvious bottleneck of the first self-running carts, and in 1911 the American mechanical engineer Charles Kettering proposed the design of an electric starter. And already in 1912, the first car powered by Kettering’s invention, the Cadillac Model 30, was produced.

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However, despite this, a technical revolution did not occur - which can be traced at least by the famous Ford T, which, produced in millions of copies, was wound up with a handle until 1919... Actually, the reason was to a large extent that Charles Kettering, crowned the inventor of the starter, proposed to Cadillac a completely different design than is used everywhere these days!

Its design was complex and unreliable, since the starter, after starting the engine, was not disconnected from the crankshaft, but switched to generator mode, and the leading American automakers of that era reacted coolly to the idea. The reason for Cadillac's support for Kettering's invention lay in the personality of the company's founder, Henry Leland, whose close friend was seriously injured in 1910 by the reverse jerk of the crank when the ignition was too early and died as a result...

A technical mini-revolution in the automobile industry, thanks to the starter, did happen - but four years later, in 1916. Namely, when another American engineer, Vincent Hugo Bendix, proposed dividing the generator and starter into two separate units, and connecting the latter to the engine only for a short time - using an overrunning clutch, known to this day as “Bendix”.

Starter design

All car starters are very similar to each other. If you understand the device of anyone, you will understand them all. Be it a Matiz or a Kamaz...

The basis of any starter is a simple electric motor. Current is supplied to the rotor (aka “armature”) by powerful copper-graphite brushes, and the magnetic force of the stator is provided either by electromagnets or permanent magnets. The electrical circuits of most modern starters do not have any fundamental differences - all starters are connected to the car's electrical system at three points - power plus from the battery, ground through the body, and control plus from the ignition switch. In fact, only the power expressed in dimensions differs.

On the cylindrical body of the starter there is a smaller “barrel” - this is the so-called “retractor relay”. It performs two functions - in fact, it supplies power to the starter, having powerful contacts that can withstand currents of hundreds of amperes, and also engages the starter shaft with the engine shaft through a rocker arm and a Bendix overrunning clutch.

This clutch works on the principle of a classic bicycle hub - that is, the starter can turn the engine, but once the engine has started, it will not “drag along” the starter, spinning up at destructive high speeds.

Visual 3D animation of the starter design

More noticeable differences between one starter model and another lie in the design of the front rotor support. The classic device is when the rotor axis is installed in the starter on two bearings - support bushings made of a bronze-graphite alloy. These bushings are located, respectively, in the front and rear starter covers.

In principle, this “double-support” design is the most reliable and correct. But there are often “single-support” starters (in garage jargon they are often not very correctly called UNSUPPORTED), in which the rear support of the rotor shaft is located, as it should be, in the rear cover of the starter, but the front cover is missing altogether.

In this case, the front support becomes the engine clutch housing or gearbox housing, into which the support sleeve is pressed. The starter is installed in its place in the car - and the shaft rests on two bushings, as it should. As a rule, such a solution is used to reduce the size of components, and in principle, as long as everything is in order, it is no worse than the classic one. But if the front support bushing in the gearbox housing breaks, it is much more difficult to replace it - this is done by car and sometimes in very inconvenient conditions. Whereas in a two-bearing starter, the bushings are changed on a workbench, where everything is visible and easily accessible.

Another fundamental design point that distinguishes starter models from each other is the gearbox. More precisely, its absence or presence, and if present, its type. The fact is that the transmission of torque from the starter rotor to the engine flywheel can be carried out directly or through a gearbox built into the starter.

The “direct” option is when the Bendix gear, which rotates the engine flywheel crown, is located directly on the axis of the starter rotor. This design is quite archaic, characterized by excessive dimensions and weight, as well as huge current consumption, but it still occurs. Gear starters are much more efficient, lighter and more compact. In them, the moment is transmitted to the flywheel crown either through one intermediate gear or through a planetary gear with even greater deceleration.

"Planetary" starters are the most common today. With them, to start the engine, a battery with almost half the capacity and starting current required for the same motor with a starter operating directly is enough.


Starter repair example

Let's move on from theory to a real unit that requires repair. In our case, the symptoms of the malfunction were as follows: the starter began to rotate the engine very sluggishly, regardless of the state of charge of the battery. At the same time, being removed from the engine and connected by starting wires to the battery, it rotated vigorously. The well-functioning engine somehow managed to start even with such a sluggish rotation, but at some point the starter stopped completely and emitted smoke...


After removing the back cover, a couple of tablespoons of black dust spilled out of the starter housing. Therefore, the first diagnosis is brushes. We remove the brush assembly, remove the housing with magnets (which auto electricians among themselves call a “bulb”), and take out the rotor.


After blowing all the parts with compressed air and washing them in gasoline, it became clear that the brushes were almost completely worn out, and their remains were almost short-circuited with graphite powder. The force of the springs pressing the remains of the brushes weakened, the contact resistance increased, the brush holders and springs heated up until they turned blue, melted, the coils closed and the brushes froze.

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We pick up the brush assembly as a sample and go to the nearest office for the repair of starters and generators, where we ask them to pick up a similar part. The complete brush assembly costs us 400 rubles, which, considering the cost of a new starter from 4 to 5 thousand, is quite inexpensive!


We clean the rotor and assess the condition of the commutator - the slip ring along which the brushes operate. Wear is noticeable to the naked eye (shown by arrows in the photo), but the commutator can still work after replacing the brushes. We do without a groove, sanding it with fine sandpaper - that's enough.

In general, wear of the rotor commutator is a serious problem. In principle, under normal conditions, the commutator of any starter is capable of replacing a couple of sets of brushes, but if its contact lamellas become very thin, the rotor goes to waste. This part is expensive, it is not easy to purchase it separately, and it is rational to replace it only for free - if a similar starter with a live rotor turns up from old stocks of auto junk at home or from friends... Because if the collector is completely killed, there is usually no living space on the starter.


We inspect the overrunning clutch, otherwise known as “Bendix” (the name, by the way, comes from the manufacturer Bendix). We rotate its gear manually. It spins one way, but not the other. We move it back and forth along the axis of the shaft - it moves easily, without jamming. In our case with the Bendix everything is okay, that’s how it should be.

Meanwhile, the failure of the overrunning clutch is also a serious malfunction, since it is easy to buy the required modification only for starters of common models - problems may arise with finding a “Bendix”... The main typical reason for the malfunction of the clutch is the wear of the springs and rollers inside it, due to why it slips without blocking when rotating in the working direction. As a result, the starter hums and spins, but the crankshaft stops. This malfunction is easily diagnosed - the Bendix rotates manually in both directions, when it should only rotate in one direction. In a good way, the overrunning clutch in this case must be replaced, since it has a non-separable design. Although some enthusiasts flare its body, stretch the “trampled” springs, and cut new rollers from hardened rods, the result of this fuss is most often short-lived.


Since the rotor has been removed, we simultaneously assess the condition of the planetary gearbox. We take out the gears, wash them with gasoline, and inspect them. Everything is in order, there are no complaints about the gearbox. Apply a light coat of CV joint grease to the gears and their bearings.

Note that the gearbox is a fairly reliable starter unit. It happens that the axes of the satellite gears are cut off or the outer gear ring bursts - but this happens rarely and most often due to initial defects in the metal or its processing, and not because of the loads during everyday work. For example, in planetary starter gearboxes, the outer gear ring, called the “crown,” is often made of plastic and is quite durable (in our case, as can be seen in the photo below, the “crown” is metal).

As a gear lubricant, ideally, special compounds for planetary gears or special consistent low-temperature compounds are required, but they are expensive and rare - it is irrational to buy them for a one-time job, where you will only need one gram out of the entire expensive tube. Therefore, it is quite acceptable to use a common lubricant for CV joints or a good imported lubricant for hub bearings. The main thing is to apply it in a very small amount - there is no need to fill the gearbox! The abundance of lithol, which thickens strongly in the cold, is pressed between the teeth of the gears, causing an excessive current surge and even threatening to break the plastic “crown”...


Now there is more tricky work to be done. It would be unwise not to evaluate the condition of the solenoid relay contacts once the starter has been removed and gutted. But if to disassemble the starter we only needed 8, 10 keys, and a Phillips screwdriver, then we can only open the traction relay with a 100-watt soldering iron. Wires come out of the relay, pass through the contact pins in the cover, and are soldered externally. Therefore, after unscrewing the two Phillips screws of the cover, it will be possible to lift it only by heating the solder one by one on the two contacts, shown in the photo with arrows. In fact, this is a simple procedure, and it can be done many times if necessary.


We are lucky - our contacts are in order. We lightly refresh them by rubbing them with a wad of sandpaper held in the “duckbills.” After this, we warm up the pass-through pistons on the lid one by one with a soldering iron, and sharply slam the lid on the table - by inertia, the remains of the molten solder fly out of the pistons, the holes are freed, and now the lid can be put back on the protruding wires and soldered back.

By the way, a serious mistake made by car owners who carry out repairs and maintenance of the starter themselves is to lubricate the solenoid relay core. In this unit, lubrication is not needed at all - at most, you can lightly coat the core and its socket with engine oil and wipe it almost dry - purely for the sake of reducing the likelihood of corrosion. And any greases in this unit are contraindicated - in the cold, even the best and cold-resistant ones can jam the core. The gap between the solenoid relay must be clean and dry!

We assemble the starter in the reverse order, not forgetting to lubricate (also without fanaticism!) the rear rotor bushing. Can the unit be installed on a car? You can, but first let's do one more thing!

The fact is that in the newly acquired brush assembly the brushes are even parallelepipeds. And the collector is cylindrical, and even has acquired the shape of a not quite regular cylinder due to wear. And, in a good way, the working edges of the brushes should have semicircular grooves to increase the contact area, plus they should get used to the real profile of the commutator.

Therefore, to prevent the first activation of the starter on the engine from causing excessive heating of the commutator and brushes due to the passage of large current through the reduced contact patch, we will carry out a light grinding-in. Let's take the wires for “lighting up”, and with their help we connect the starter, lying on the table, to the battery, and turn it idle for a minute or two, intermittently.

That's it now. We install the starter on the engine and enjoy a quick and confident start.


Have you ever had to deal with starter repair?

Many farmers ask how to install a starter on a walk-behind tractor. When operating a motor cultivator, starters are used: main and auxiliary.

Installing a starter on a walk-behind tractor

There are different designs of starters:

  • manual;
  • spring;
  • electric.

The most common is a manual starter for a walk-behind tractor, since this device is very easy to install on a walk-behind tractor, and its repair is easy to do yourself. If such a device is operated correctly, its durability is several years.


Let's look at what elements a starter for a walk-behind tractor consists of:

  • a drum-shaped body;
  • springs: large and small;
  • washers;
  • coil;
  • cord;
  • reeds;
  • fastening parts.


In the center of the drum there is a reel on which the cord is attached. A large spring is located in the housing around an axis and is designed to return the reel to its original position after scrolling.

The mechanism of this device is quite simple; you can assemble it yourself.

The operation of a walk-behind tractor with a manual starter is carried out as follows. The driver starts the mechanism by pulling the handle of the device. At the same time, the device begins to work and starts the engine. In order for the device to successfully transfer the initial rotation to the motor, the handle of the device must be pulled twice.

But despite the fact that a manual starter on a walk-behind tractor is considered a reliable device, it also sometimes fails. If the structure breaks down, you can repair it yourself.

How to repair a motor cultivator starter yourself

Let's look at how to repair a walk-behind tractor starter with your own hands. Before you start repairing a recoil starter, you need to find instructions for its operation, which contains a diagram of the device. Then you need to prepare a wrench to unscrew the mechanism.

Before dismantling the device, you need to photograph it so that you can then correctly assemble all the parts and components.


After this, unscrew the washer, which is located in the middle of the body. Having opened the lid, you need to carefully inspect all the parts that are located inside the drum and determine which of them are damaged. It is necessary to inspect small parts very carefully and carefully so as not to accidentally damage or lose them.

In most cases, repairing a kickstarter on a walk-behind tractor involves updating components that have failed. For example, the starter cord is replaced if it is torn or frayed.


If a large spring fails, you need to remove it from the drum. There are usually hooks at the spring attachment points. If the design does not have them, then you need to heat the ends of the spring and bend them in the desired direction. If the spring is completely out of order and there is severe metal fatigue, then there is no need to try to restore functionality to such a spring. In this case, it is best to replace it with another one. After this, we install the device in its place.


In addition to the manual starter, there are also spring and electric starters for walk-behind tractors. The spring mechanism has a simple design and starts easily. The device starts up after moving the handle of the cultivator. Acceleration of the motor occurs through semi-automatic operation of the spring. You can replace a manual starter with a mechanical one yourself.

The electric starter of the walk-behind tractor is connected to the battery, from which it receives power. Electric start of the device is carried out using the start button. The battery determines the power of the electric starter and the operating time of the device. Installation of the electric starter is carried out according to the electrical diagram of this design. A walk-behind tractor with an electric starter is durable, reliable, and has a long service life.