Replacing spark plugs on Lada Largus. Spark plugs - replacement and general description Replacing Largus 16 spark plugs
At TO-2, according to the regulations, I replaced the spark plugs. They came from the factory with Champion RC87YCL, and installed NLC (the brand will be visible in the photo below). I drove about 6000 km on these spark plugs, which I greatly regret. Well, who knew that OD could engage in outright sabotage... But more on that below. The engine with these spark plugs began to work much worse. This was expressed in loud operation and some strange sounds - clanking when starting, howling of the engine. After reading the forum and rummaging through catalogs, it was decided to buy Denso K20TT spark plugs, which was done. When it got warmer outside, the sound of the engine began to really get on my nerves - first I decided to replace the spark plugs - I blamed them first and not in vain. Before starting the replacement work, I bought a spark plug wrench, a set of feeler gauges, and took out a box of spark plugs supplied by the dealer.
Here are two packages next to each other:
Now let's look at what cars these spark plugs are intended for:
There are no cars with a K4M engine here.
I remove the first ignition coil and try to unscrew the spark plug - nope, it doesn’t work. With a very great effort, I still tore it from its place, I thought I would break it... It blew through. Well, what kind of idiot do you have to be to pull the candle like that? The other three spark plugs were tightened normally - at least that's good. I immediately remembered the “diagnosis” of Sergei Pogrebny, which he wrote to me in a letter about my complaint:
“Your NLC spark plugs may not work well not because of a lack of lubrication, but because they have simply been over-tightened. These spark plugs have a very thin and delicate body and when over-tightened, it becomes deformed. The spark plug loses its seal and misfires at rpm. "
Well, now let’s check the gap - the mother is Japanese, the 0.8 dipstick won’t fit, I didn’t even try smaller ones, because... On these spark plugs, the factory gap is set incorrectly, or rather, it may be correct, but for other cars, and not for Largus. Later, after looking at the catalogs, it became clear that these candles are not used at all in Largus. Well, what should we call OD Techincom after this?
According to the manual, the spark plug gap for the K4M engine should be 0.95 +- 0.05 mm. Sergey, who wrote this manual, generally recommends 1 mm. If these are recommended spark plugs, then this gap is already there, but if they are analogues, then the gap must be set. By the way, on the Denso K20TT the gap is just 1 mm.
Quote: “Based on the spark plugs, you confirmed my diagnosis. The NLCs were disfigured when tightened (I wrote to you about their soft body). And the gap on them was set incorrectly. It should be at least 1.0 mm. When I used these on my Tussan spark plugs, then before installation I independently increased the gap to 1 millimeter, since for some reason the manufacturer sets them by default to 0.8 mm. Current champion ones immediately have a gap of 1.0 mm. The gap depends not on the spark plug manufacturer, but on the engine manufacturer. On medium-boost injection engines, it should be 1.0 mm for spark plugs of any manufacturer. You couldn’t kill the engine with these spark plugs, but the catalytic converter could easily. If there is a misfire, the unburned gasoline burns out in the converter, greatly overheating it."
In general, I installed these spark plugs, checking the gap first just in case:
Now let's move on to the ignition coils. Getting them out of the well turned out to be very difficult. However, those who have encountered this have already written about this - sealant squeezed into the well when tightening the cylinder head at the factory. This is not only a VAZ jamb, Spanish engines are assembled in the same way. This sealant melts at high temperatures and sticks the coil in the well like glue. Here it is visible in the photo:
I barely cleaned it off. At TO-2, naturally, no one bothered to do this.
The crushed rubber bands confused me. They are like this on all four coils, and on different sides of the jam from the place where the coil is screwed on.
Photo of the jam:
In this photo, the jam is just under the coil mounting bolt, but there is also a jam on the opposite side. I didn’t know what to do with it, so I left it as is. If those who read all this writing of mine have any thoughts on this matter, please share.
And one more very important point: The manual says that before installing the ignition coils, you need to apply a 2 mm bead of Fluostat 2L lubricant to their inner part. Well, it is necessary, it is necessary. I started looking for this lubricant (in advance, of course, and not during work). It’s not available anywhere, and the French original in existential stores costs 4,000 rubles per tube. The toad crushed to buy for such a price and again I’m writing a letter to Seryoga - they say, give me the names of analogues, otherwise, they say, Abramovich’s daughter is not... well, in general, it’s clear what I’m not doing with her. In response I receive this advice:
“Today I read your letter and decided to answer again. Firstly, no lubrication is needed! The Largus has the same engine as the other Renaults and no lubrication was provided there. This is my co-author, who wrote the “Electrical Equipment” section, He decided to show off his erudition and copied the operation from the service manual. He generally loves to let water get into the book and I often argue with him about this. If you really want to smear it, buy a regular copper-containing lubricant. It is sold at any auto parts store.
I repeat - no lubrication is needed there. This is just reinsurance - protection against possible corrosion of the contacts of the spark plug and ignition coil. On the same engine installed on Logan, Duster, etc. There is no lubrication provided in this place."
By the way, at TO-2 they didn’t smear anything inside the coils. However, I have no complaints about this, because I trust Sergei - all the books on car repairs from the Third Rome publishing house were written by him or with his participation. Well, I’ve known him since he was a designer at AZLK.
Well, in conclusion, I want to say: with the new spark plugs, the car started up smoothly, the engine began to run quietly, in any case, much quieter and softer than with the “wrong” spark plugs from OD. And subjectively, the car drove better and faster. But these are subjective feelings. I don’t know yet whether fuel consumption has changed or not, but it’s quite problematic to notice this in the city, because “there is no purity of the experiment.” If all of the above helps someone, I will be glad. And I want to warn you - trust OD, but verify. The car is not theirs, but our own, dear.
2. Using a special tool, remove the rings from the pistons - try not to accidentally damage the walls of the latter.
3. Scrape off any traces of carbon deposits from the piston bottoms. After removing the main layer of deposits, sand the surface by hand with a wire brush or a piece of fine-grit sandpaper.
5. Having removed the main deposits, wash the connecting rod assemblies with solvent and dry them thoroughly, if possible using compressed air. Check the patency of the oil return holes in the rear walls of the grooves for installing piston rings, as well as the oil holes in the lower heads of the connecting rods.
6. If the piston walls and cylinder bores are not damaged or excessively worn, and the engine block has not been machined or replaced, there is also no need to replace the pistons. Normal piston wear manifests itself in the form of vertical wear marks on the thrust surface and a slight slack in the fit of the upper compression ring in its groove. Do not forget that replacement of piston rings is mandatory, regardless of their condition.
7. Carefully inspect each pistons for cracks in the skirt, around the piston pin bosses, and in the ring area.
8. Check the thrust surfaces of the piston skirt for scratches, and the bottom for through holes and burns along the edge. The presence of scratches on the skirt can be regarded as a sign of prolonged engine overheating, or too early ignition of the air-fuel mixture - check the proper functioning of the cooling system. Burnouts along the edges of the bottom are evidence of detonation. In any case, the cause of the identified violation must be eliminated to avoid relapses. Possible reasons for the formation of the listed defects may also include intake air leaks, incorrect air-fuel mixture configuration, incorrect ignition timing, improper functioning of the ignition and EGR systems.
9. Pitting of pistons in the form of cavities indicates that coolant has entered the combustion chambers and/or crankcase. Again, ensure that the cause of internal leaks is corrected.
11. Estimate the size of the lateral clearance of the piston rings in their grooves, to do this, insert a new ring from the outside into its groove on the piston and measure the remaining gap with a blade-type feeler gauge. Repeat the measurement at two or three points around the perimeter of the groove. Be careful not to mix up the compression rings (the top one is different from the second one). If the gap exceeds the permissible value, the pistons must be replaced.
12. If the fit gap of the piston in the cylinder exceeds the permissible value, the block should be machined with a selection of new pistons of repair diameter.
13. Assess the correct seating of the pistons on the connecting rods by attempting to rotate the components in opposite directions. The presence of any noticeable play indicates excessive wear of the joint. To correct the situation, the connecting rod and piston assemblies should be delivered to a car service workshop, where the necessary restoration repairs and replacement of pins will be carried out.
14. The procedure for removing pistons from connecting rods (if such a need arises) should also be entrusted to car service specialists. At the same time, the connecting rods can be checked for signs of bending, twisting and other deformations using special diagnostic equipment.
15. Check the connecting rods for cracks and other mechanical damage. Temporarily remove the lower head covers, remove the old bearing shells, wipe the beds in the covers and heads and check them for burrs, burrs and roughness. When you have finished checking, replace the old bearings, install the caps on the lower connecting rod heads and hand-tighten the mounting bolts.
17. After checking the connecting rods and connecting rod bolts, reinstall the lower head caps and hand-tighten the fasteners.
Car spark plugs are not just a consumable item. The correct choice, their condition and cost will determine the driving behavior of the vehicle, maintenance costs and comfort. Spark plugs largely influence the speed, performance and dynamic parameters of the car, allowing it to drive smoothly.
Spark plugs are one of the parts of the gasoline engine system and are needed to create an electrical charge. They come under the influence of voltage passing between the electrodes, resulting in a spark. Further, because of it, the fuel poured into the system ignites, which allows the car to drive.
Problems with spark plugs can cause a lot of trouble and trouble for the driver. The most dangerous breakdowns include the following:
- Poor start, especially at low temperatures;
- Unstable engine operation when idling, at low and medium speeds;
- Loss of power, poor vehicle acceleration dynamics;
- Increased fuel consumption.
Looking at the problems that arise due to broken spark plugs, you can understand that this is not a simple consumable, but an important component of the car, which requires regular diagnostics and maintenance.
What spark plugs are needed for Lada Largus
Power units installed on Largus allow the installation of spark plugs from third-party manufacturers, with different characteristics. Their external data is considered an unchanged part. The design consists of an M14 thread, the main part is about 19 mm long.
Important! The mounting dimensions are suitable for a spark plug or socket wrench 16.
It is worth paying attention to the most popular candles in Largus. They are characterized by a large number of contacts, as well as special metal alloys. It turns out that the manufacturer has provided for the installation of this consumable element with one or more side electrodes. Typically these consumables are made of chromium-nickel alloy or platinum.
On cars with a 16-valve engine, you can install Renault spark plugs 7700500155(from the original manufacturer). The best analogues of this model are Motrio 224018651R. In some cities it is difficult to find exactly such a model. In this case, you can purchase the following models:
- SAGEM RFN58LZ;
- BOSCH FR 7 LDC+ 0242235668;
- CHAMPION RC87YCL;
- DENSO K20TT K20TT#4.
The listed consumables can be installed on 16-valve engines with a volume of 1.6 liters K4M.
Important! For an engine with 8 valves, it is also better to install original models from Renault or analogues from the companies listed above.
All the differences between a 16- and 8-valve engine are that on a 16-valve engine each spark plug is equipped with a separate ignition coil, while on an 8-valve engine there is only one coil. The type, size, gap and number of potassiums also differ.
Replacing spark plugs on an engine with 16 valves
You should not replace spark plugs with Largus 16 valves when the engine is not cooled down (risk of burning your hand).
Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Consumables must be changed on all cylinders in order. Tightening is carried out using an amplifier of 25-30 N*m. After replacing all consumables, there is no need to further tune the engine.
Replacing spark plugs on an engine with 8 valves
If you remove all the tips at the same time, you need to remember their location or installation order. The point is that each wire leads to a separate cylinder, the numbering is written on the module (coil).
In this article we will talk in detail about replacing spark plugs on a Lada Largus car with an 8 and 16 cl engine. The manufacturer recommends replacing spark plugs every 30 thousand km. This is exactly what the life of the candles and their performance are designed for.
Lada Largus cars are equipped with engines from Renault, so the spark plugs are suitable specifically for engines of this brand.
Which spark plugs are suitable for a 16 cl K4M engine?
If you have a Lada Largus with a 16 valve engine, the original Renault spark plugs 7700500155 will suit you. The official analogues of these spark plugs are Motrio 224018651R. If you can’t buy such candles from us, you can get by with analogues from other manufacturers:
- BOSCH FR 7 LDC+ 0242235668 price from 600 rubles per set
- DENSO K20TT K20TT#4 price per set from 550 rub.
- CHAMPION RC87YCL
- SAGEM RFN58LZ
The above spark plugs are suitable for a 1.6 16 cl engine. K4M 102 (105) hp To replace the spark plugs, we need a spark plug wrench with a size of 16 and a socket with a size of 8 in order to unscrew the ignition coils.
The difference between replacing spark plugs on 16-cl and 8-cl engines is that on 16-valve engines each spark plug has a separate ignition coil, and on 8-valve engines there is only one coil. Also, spark plugs have different potassium numbers, plug types, diameters and gaps.
Which spark plugs are suitable for the K7M 8 valve engine
From the factory, on Lada Largus with an 8 cl engine, Renault spark plugs 7700500168 are installed. The official analogue of Motrio 224013682R. Instead, you can also install analogues from such manufacturers as NGK, DENSO.
Instructions for replacing spark plugs on a 16 valve engine
To avoid getting burned, it is best to carry out the replacement when the engine has cooled down. The first thing we need to do is remove the pads from each ignition coil.
To do this, carefully press the latch and disconnect each coil.
Using an extension and a 8mm socket, unscrew the bolt securing the coil to the body.
Now carefully pull the coil out of the well and put it aside.
Using a 16 mm wrench, unscrew the spark plug, then install a new spark plug, screw it in, put on the ignition coil and screw it in, generally reassemble in the reverse order. We change the spark plugs on the remaining cylinders in the same way.
Tighten the spark plugs with a force of 25–30 Nm.
After replacing all the spark plugs, no action is required to configure and adapt the motor.
Instructions for replacing spark plugs on an 8 valve K7M engine
So, remove the tip from the candle and before we begin to remove it, use a pump or a rag to clean the area around the candle. This is necessary to ensure that no dirt or grains of dust get into the well.
Using a 16mm spark plug wrench or a similar head, unscrew the spark plug and screw in a new one.
Then we put on the tip and replace it on the remaining cylinders.
The tightening torque of the spark plugs is 25–30 Nm.
If you remove all the tips from the candles at once, then remember how they stood, or carefully look at the order in which they were installed. Each wire is installed on a specific cylinder; the number can be found on the module (ignition coil).