Smooth turning off of the light in the car interior. Smoothly turn off the light in the cabin with your own hands Smooth attenuation of the light
Problem
You get into the car, close the door - and the interior lights go out! What if it's dark outside? You have to prepare for a trip in the dark... And you sadly think about those cars in which the light turns on softly when you open the door, remains on when you close it, and after a delay of 10-15 seconds smoothly goes out! Well, this can be done on any machine, including yours!
Main differences from analogues
Lately, “knee-jerk” products made using the “clunk-and-blunder” method and having greatly simplified functionality, passed off as “analogues” of our LD-02/03 devices, have often begun to appear on sale (and also offered in forums and chats). Products are offered that have the simplest functionality and low reliability, rigid logic for working with fixed settings and the need for constant “calibrations” and adjustment of the generator-motor “to the device” (you have to guess that!), low load capacity and the absence of any protection. The price of such devices is only slightly lower than the price of our LD-02/03, which is quite understandable, but for some reason higher than the price of our LD-01, which has similar functions but is much more reliable.
Interior light control controllers LD-02/03 produced by A-Service JSC have a number of undeniable advantages over such so-called analogues:
Detection of a running engine using a digital software bandpass filter, not requiring any settings or calibrations, despite the fact that this method works regardless of the switched on loads (headlights, heating, etc.) and regardless of the degree of charge/discharge of the battery and the voltage in the vehicle's on-board network - this function is necessary to reduce the delay before the lamp goes out when the engine is running (without laying additional wires) and for the “Comfort” mode;
The ability to obtain reliable data without additional wires and connections (and without any calibration settings!) extinguishing the lamp "on engine start";
Possibility of connecting to the "+12V Ignition" circuit, if you want to stretch the wire to the ceiling and get extinguishing the lamp "by ignition key";
Possibility of accelerated lamp extinguishing when arming the car;
Possibility of smooth switching on of the lampshade when disarming the car;
- Comfort mode- turning on the interior light when the ignition is turned off, and this function works without additional connections and additional wires (the function can be disabled);
Opportunity settings of all parameters: extinguishing speed, switching speed, delay, modes (or use of preset ones);
- no interference for alarms and other car units;
- adaptation for working with any car alarms and electronic units;
Day off power up to 50 W;
- factory production in modern electronic equipment production;
- micro-dimensions devices;
-easy connection- detailed color instructions included.
Be careful when purchasing so as not to pay twice.
Peculiarities
The offered controllers have very small sizes (15 x 27 x 4mm) and wherein:
Turn off the interior light after closing the car doors with delay and smooth extinction- when the engine is not running (in LD-02/03 the delay can be changed - from 1 to 255 seconds, in LD-01 the delay is fixed 12-15 seconds),
When the door is open and the engine is off, the light will go out smoothly after 15 minutes- this function is available in the LD-02/03 controller,
Turn off the interior light smoothly when starting the engine without delay,
At with the engine running, the delay is no more than 1-2 seconds along with smooth extinction,
Has the function (LD-02/03) "Comfort" - turning on the interior light when turning off the ignition after a trip,
It has a function (LD-02/03) to quickly extinguish the interior light when arming the car.
Control lamps power up to 50W (LD-01 - up to 8 W) (standard lamps in interior lighting usually have a power of 5-10 W), power transistor current - up to 10A per pulse,
Work and with incandescent lamps and LEDs in the lampshade - there is both a smooth extinguishing and a full delay; parallel connection of incandescent lamps and LED lamps in the lamp is allowed;
- with fluorescent lamp there will be only a delay without smooth extinction,
- work without problems with any alarms and immobilizers, including those with the function of “polite illumination” of the interior, adding smooth activation and extinguishing of the lamp also when the engine is running;
Connecting without laying additional wires and without the use of any tools,
- devices do not interfere with setting the car alarm- high input impedance of devices (>1MOm).
Connection
Controllers LD-01 and LD-02/03 are installed in the gap in the connection wires for the interior light: they are switched on according to the “adapter” principle, i.e. The connector is removed from the interior lamp and a controller is added between the connector and the lamp. Installing the controller in a car takes no more than 5 minutes with minimal knowledge of electrical engineering.
ATTENTION. Controllers can be supplied with or without terminal terminals.
LD-01 controller pin layout(wires - in order of location in the flat cable):
| "Entrance Door" ("Sensor") | ||
| "Output Lamp" | ||
| +12V | ||
| +12V | ||
| "Weight" | ||
| "Weight" | ||
LD-02/03 controller pin locations (view of the board from the parts side - for clarity, the protective coating has been removed, the wires are in the order of their location in the flat cable):
| "Input Ignition" ("+12V Run") |
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| "Entrance Door" ("Sensor") | ||
| "Output Lamp" | ||
| +12V | ||
| +12V | ||
| "Weight" | ||
| "Weight" | ||
Note: Contacts "+12V" and "Ground" are duplicated for ease of connection in the car.
For interior lamps with a 5 W lamp, you can use the LD-01 controller:
For interior lamps with a 10-15 W lamp (for example, in Getz, Accent, Aveo, Lanos, Nexia, Mazda, Toyota, etc.), you can use the LD-02/03 controller:
| The LD-02/03 connection is made “in a gap” (using the example of a Hyundai Getz car): - remove the connector from the lampshade and connect the wires with red terminals to the outermost contacts of the lampshade connector with red wires; - wires with black terminals are connected to the outermost contacts of the lampshade connector with black wires; - wires with green and blue terminals are connected to the central contacts of the lampshade connector with red and white (color options are possible) wires. The photo shows the connection of LD-02/03 to a Hyundai Getz car. Once connected, the LD-02/03 unit can be hidden in the gap above the ceiling trim (towards the rear window). The entire installation process takes no more than 5 minutes, and no qualifications (except for accuracy) are required. ATTENTION: More detailed connection diagrams can be found in the instructions supplied with the controller.
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Connection of LD-02|03 (option A) in a Hyundai Accent, Chevrolet Lanos, Lacetti - view of the ceiling from the reverse side.
Please note (the connection descriptions below are also in the instructions for the controller).
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Extinguishing the interior light when arming can be done by extending an additional wire from the alarm output to the central locking system (central locks) and connecting it to the wire with the “yellow” terminal of the LD-02/03 controller - a short pulse (0.5-2 sec) with a voltage of “+12V” is required.
- can be done by giving a short pulse that closes (0.5-1 sec is enough) the door limit switch - through our product "Inverter V-07", actually simulating a short opening and closing of the door. How? --> ... There is only one trouble with such a connection - the loss of “re-arming”.
- Turning on the interior light when disarming the car can also be done by installing our M-03 unit (connecting it to the alarm connector) and connecting it with one wire to the LD-02/03 controller versions 1.04.63 and higher. How? --> ... There are no troubles with such a connection - only good impressions!
- LD-02/03 controllers are much more functional, are more powerful and work much more pleasantly than the LD-01 controller, but the LD-01 controller is 2 times cheaper than them. The use of LD-01 is most justified in illumination of pedals, trunk, etc., the use of LD-02/03 - in interior lamps, including additional ones (up to 50 W or up to 5 lamps of 10 W), or with LED lamps that LD-02/03 will also fade in and out smoothly, like incandescent lamps.
Operating principle of controllers LD-01 and LD-02/03
1. When the “Input-Sensor” contact is closed to the “ground” of the vehicle, i.e. when opening the door, the interior lamp lights up smoothly for 1 second (0.5..6 seconds for LD-02/03) and continues to burn at full brightness.
2. When the “Input-Sensor” contact is closed to “+12V” or when it is left unconnected, i.e. when closing the door - The interior lamp ("Lamp" terminal) continues to light for 1-255 seconds and goes out smoothly (extinguishing: in LD-02/03 - for 1..30 seconds, in LD-01 - for 4 seconds) - with the engine not running (in LD-02/03 the delay can be changed - from 1 to 255 seconds). In LD-01 the delay is approximately 12-15 seconds - unchangeable.
3. When starting the engine the light goes out smoothly for 1-2 seconds, without working out the delay. If the controller is connected to the “+12V Ignition” circuit (a circuit where +12V is available only when the ignition is on), the lamp will smoothly go out when the ignition is turned on, without waiting for the engine to start.
4. When the engine is running, there is a delay in turning off the interior light along with its smooth extinguishing reduced to 1-2 seconds.
5. When turning off the ignition after a trip interior light turns on for the duration of the specified delay - “Comfort” mode (can be switched off, available only in LD-02/03).
6. When arming the interior light will go out quickly, if you connect the “+12V Ignition” wire to the alarm output “to the central locking”.
7. With the engine off and the door open the LD-02/03 controller will smoothly turn off the lamp after 15 minutes. (This function is only available in LD-02/03).
8. The LD-02/03 controller has possibility of adjusting parameters optional: there is a button for programming modes.
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The voltage on the interior lamp is regulated using an electronic power MOSFET switch in PWM (PWM - pulse width modulation) mode. To determine the moment the engine starts, an ADC (Analog-to-Digital Converter) chip is used. Control is carried out by a processor from Microchip (USA). |
ATTENTION! In the LD-02 controller, software version 1.01 and higher, unlike previous versions, a new, more reliable algorithm for determining a running engine is used, which does not use measurement of the on-board voltage level - the settings of voltage threshold values are also excluded. Controllers LD-02 and LD-03 differ only in output power, i.e. permissible power of the lamps connected to them, their other parameters are absolutely identical. When the ignition is turned off and the interior light is turned off, the controller consumes virtually no current: less than 0.01 μA for LD-01 (7 mA for LD-02/03), which is equivalent to its complete disconnection from the vehicle's on-board power supply. We provide a service for installing LD-02/03 controllers in your car.Installation takes 5-7 minutes, cost 200 rubles. (without installing mixer M-03). Address: Moscow, Avtozavodskaya st. 5, tel. 8-965-259-4622, Alexander. |
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Main characteristics of controllers LD-01, LD-02 and LD-03:
LD-01 |
LD-02 |
LD-03 |
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| Operating voltage, V | 8-16 |
6-20 |
6-20 |
| Current consumption when the interior lamp is turned off (max), A | 0,01 |
0,01 |
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| Control current at the "Sensor" input (max), A | 0,0003 |
0,0003 |
0,0003 |
| Switched current (max), A | |||
| Switched power (nominal), W, | |||
| Switched power (max), W, | |||
| Time (speed) of “soft” switching on of the lamp, sec |
This device is designed to smoothly dim the light in the car when the door is closed. A very useful thing, especially in the dark, when you need a little light when leaving the car.
The circuit diagram of the device is quite simple. If (circuit SA1) the switch is open, the light does not light up, due to the fact that transistors KT817 and KT361 (VT2 and VT1) are closed. Based on this, when the door is opened, these transistors will open and therefore the interior lighting will turn on.
It is recommended to place the transistor (KT817) on a heat sink, since heating occurs when the brightness of the light decreases. It is better to use a heat sink with an area of 4 to 6 cm2. Capacitor (C1) is used for the effect of smooth fading of light. Consequently, when the door is closed, the switch closes and the light continues to glow due to the remaining discharge of the capacitor.
This circuit is powered from the car's 12-volt network. You can also connect other devices in parallel, which will not interfere with each other. If you put this circuit on each car door, then when you open and close each of them, the light will also turn on and off smoothly.
Resistor (R3) serves for better lamp turn-off speed. In order to change the adjustment limit, the value of the resistor (R6) needs to be changed from 270 to 430 Ohms. The devices are located under the interior lampshade.
I'm going to tell you here about a simple scheme for smoothly turning off the lighting in a car. It consists of a small capacitor and several auxiliary elements necessary for the operation of this device. Despite its apparent simplicity, the scheme can be used for any car. All that is required for this is to carefully and accurately solder it to the two terminals of the interior lighting lamp.
Now let's look in more detail at how this scheme should work. The rectifying diode is designed to protect the device from polarity reversal and reliably prevent unexpected current leakage in the opposite direction. This completely prevents accidental discharge of a charged capacitor into the circuit.
It is also necessary to take into account that in a number of cars the interior lamp is initially paralleled with the luggage lamp. With a higher current consumption, we will need, accordingly, a larger capacity, which is used in our device.
From the diode, the current is directly sent to the lampshade, as well as to a resistance of 1 ohm. The main function of the auxiliary resistor is to limit the current, which directly affects the charging of the capacitor. If a capacitor connected to the network is completely discharged, there will be a sharp surge in current consumption. The capacitor in this case is a potential source of short circuit. This is what can cause the fuse that protects the electrical network from short circuit to break.
Charged capacitor as soon as the interior lighting is turned off, it slowly begins to release the accumulated energy back into the network. As the discharge occurs, the voltage in the lighting circuit steadily decreases. The effect of a light bulb gradually fading in the cabin is created. Its duration directly depends on the capacitance of the capacitor. The larger the capacity, the slower the light goes out in the cabin. And vice versa.
When replacing conventional light bulbs with LEDs, the capacitance of the capacitor will have to be reduced by adding a “quenching” resistor to the circuit. This is due to the nonlinearity of the current drop in LEDs. The fact is that the current passing through the LED when the capacitor is discharged onto it is nonlinear, and therefore the light in the cabin will fade unevenly. Without such a resistor, the lampshade, which at first goes out smoothly, will continue to glow at the end for about another minute, maintaining 10% brightness.
Today we will tell you how to make a universal circuit for smoothly turning off the light in a car using a capacitor with your own hands.
I previously published, but some motorists may find it too complicated to repeat. I decided to publish the most a simple switch-off delay circuit and smooth extinguishing of light on a capacitor and several auxiliary elements. This is suitable for any car, regardless of manufacturer. All you need is to solder the circuit parallel to the connection terminals of your interior light.
Let's look at how the scheme works. The top diode in the diagram protects the circuit from polarity reversal and prevents the reverse flow of current. That is, it prevents the capacitor from discharging to other consumers except the interior lamp. In some, a trunk lighting lamp is installed parallel to the interior lamp. The more consumers there are, the larger the capacitor capacity will have to be used to organize a smooth extinguishing of the light.
Next, the current flows directly to the lamp and at a nominal value of several ohms (1 ohm is indicated in the diagram). Its function is to limit the charging current of the capacitor.
When connecting a discharged capacitor to the vehicle's on-board network, a large current pulse will be observed, since when discharged the capacitor is a short circuit, which can damage the fuse responsible
for the interior lighting circuit. Through this resistor, the capacitor is charged and energy accumulates in it, which, when the lighting is turned off (the circuit will no longer receive voltage from the onboard network), will begin to release the stored energy through the resistor and a diode connected in parallel to it to our light bulb.
As the capacitor discharges, the voltage on the lamp will drop and the visual effect of a smooth shutdown of the interior lighting will be created. The delay time for turning off the backlight is determined by the capacitance of the capacitor; the higher the capacitance, the longer the delay. 
It should be noted that in If the illuminator uses not incandescent lamps, but LED lamps, a smaller capacitor capacity and a resistor for “extinguishing” will be required.. This is due to the fact that the current consumed when the voltage decreases (on the capacitor) is not linear and drops significantly when the voltage decreases to 7-8 volts.
Without an after-extinguishing resistor, you will see a smooth extinguishing up to a certain limit, and after that the lamp will glow for another minute at 10% brightness.
A dimmer is a special analogue of conventional switches, the main difference of which is that it is able to smoothly turn on and off light sources - light bulbs.
Dimmers are used instead of ordinary switches in homes, but thanks to our craftsmen, straight hands and sober minds (sometimes not so), dimmers began to be used in cars. This article will discuss exactly how to make and connect this device.
Our homemade dimmer is designed on a microcontroller - Attiny-13 from Atmel. Due to the fact that SMD components were used in the design, thanks to which the dimmer turned out to be quite miniature and it can be hidden even in the ceiling trim or in the interior lamp.
1. After the car doors are closed, the interior lights will automatically turn off after 10 seconds.
2. The duration of the smooth switching off and switching on of the light is about 8 seconds.
3. When the engine starts or when the door is locked, the light turns off smoothly
4. When the door is unlocked, the lights come on and will remain on for 7 minutes until the door closes.
5. Smooth turning on and off of light in the cabin.
Dimmer circuit.
The principle of operation of the dimer is quite simple - the light bulb begins to glow as soon as the voltage of the vehicle’s on-board network changes. The voltage is monitored by the ADC of the microcontroller - if the voltage (U) is below 13.6 volts, this means that the engine is turned off, and if it is higher, the engine is on. Next, the voltage drops to filter R1, R2, C4.
It is especially important to note here that resistors, or rather their values, should be selected accurately, due to the fact that this may affect the accuracy of the measured voltage. HL-1 - LED - here serves as a kind of indicator of engine operation.
VT-1 is a transistor here; if it is impossible to find exactly the same one, then you can replace it with an analogue with a different performance.
The board itself was developed using the Dip Trace program. The SMD elements are on one side, and the chip (microcontroller), resistors and stabilizers are on the other. Setting up the device involves selecting the resistance for resistors R1 and R2.
The photograph shows that resistor R1 is made up of two resistors that are connected in parallel with values of 22 kOhm. The assembly is quite simple to make. Naturally, without basic skills and knowledge in electrical engineering, this device will be a little more difficult to assemble.
After completing assembly, it is recommended to coat the board with varnish and place it in a heat-shrink tube.
At the bottom of the article, there is an archive for downloading. In the archive you can find the fuse bit configuration, board layout, and chip firmware.