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Power supplies (other useful structures). Revitalizing dead batteries How to restore a AA battery with lemon juice

You will need

  • - an awl or sharp nail;
  • - syringe;
  • - distilled water;
  • - table vinegar 9%;
  • - 10% hydrochloric acid solution;
  • - plasticine or resin;
  • - small hammer;
  • - hot water;
  • - battery charger.

Instructions

The process of restoring battery functionality is called regeneration. Practice shows that not every element is suitable for restoration, but only those whose capacity and voltage have not dropped below a certain value (for a 1.5 V AA battery this value will be 0.7-0.8 V).

Please also take into account that batteries that operate at high load currents (pocket flashlights, children's toys, portable radios, etc.) are most easily restored; much worse - elements operating on low currents (watches, portable radios, cameras, etc.)

If the AA battery has been stored for a long time and has dried out, make two holes with an awl or a thin nail along the central rod, midway between it and the edges of the battery. Punctures should be made to a depth of approximately ¾ of the height of the galvanic cell.

Inject a few drops of water (preferably distilled) into one of the holes using a medical syringe. At this time, the displaced air will escape through the second hole. As soon as water appears in the second hole, the syringe is removed. After “filling” the battery, cover the holes with plasticine or hot resin.

Another, more reliable option for filling the battery is not water, but a 10% solution of hydrochloric acid or a double dose of table vinegar.

You can also revive the battery by immersing it in hot water for about 10 minutes.

Mechanical stress can also extend the life of the battery by 2-3 days. Try gently tapping the body of the elements with a small hammer.

There are charger options for different types of batteries. Schemes of such devices can be found on the Internet.

note

Keep in mind that it is better not to take risks and, if possible, still replace the “updated” batteries with new ones, since there is a risk that liquid may leak from the old batteries and damage the microcircuits of your equipment.

Sources:

  • battery fluid

Many motorists are familiar with the situation when one frosty morning the engine refuses to wake up after a cold night. Then it becomes clear that the battery is dead. But don’t rush to run out and buy a new one. After all, you can restore a dead battery. If you charge it correctly, it will last for a long time.

Instructions

Remember that you need a battery at a certain speed. If, for example, your battery capacity is 50 amp-hours, it needs to be charged for 10 hours at 5 amps. When charging, be sure to remove the covers.
If you try to charge the battery faster, this may result in overheating or boiling of the electrolyte. And if the plates become warped, the battery will die. If the battery is sealed, it must be charged even more slowly. On average, no more than 2.5% of ampere-hour. However, keeping the battery charged for too long is also not a good idea.
There are chargers equipped with a fast charging function. It must be used

only in extreme cases. After all, such a procedure reduces the life of the battery.

If your battery is dead and you urgently need to start it, the easiest way is to charge the battery from an external source. Typically, car enthusiasts help each other out by letting their car recharge a dead battery. However, for this you need to have a starter cable. They are very different. But it’s better not a “left-handed” one made by hand, but a factory one. After all, the wrong cable can melt the first time you use it. Because of this, it will heat up and lose energy. So it's not far from the fire.

If you have a starter cable, first you need to connect the red cable to the (+) terminal on the charged one. Then you need to connect the other end of the red cable to the (+) terminal on the dead battery. Then connect the black cable to the (-) terminal on the charged battery and the other end to a clean ground point on the engine block or chassis. The main thing is that it is away from the battery, carburetor, and fuel hoses. A small spark may occur during connection.
Care must be taken to ensure that both cables do not touch moving parts. Now you can start the car with a charged battery. It must run for at least one minute. Then try starting the car with the dead battery. If the engine does not start, wait a few minutes and try again. When everything works out, you can turn off the donor car. When you disconnect the starter cable, repeat the entire procedure in reverse order.

Video on the topic

Helpful advice

The battery requires care. It is necessary to regularly check the electrolyte level. Low will indicate overcharging. If only one of the cells lacks electrolyte, the battery will soon die.

Every motorist sooner or later faces a situation where the battery “dies,” and this problem is especially acute when frosts begin. There are many reasons why a battery may lose its functionality, it could be a door that is not closed completely, or an interior light that is turned on for a long time, or a forgotten working radio. In general, this is caused by any energy consumer that remains in working condition for a long time.

Instructions

However, in addition to forgotten electrical appliances, the cause of failure can also be a faulty one that supplies insufficient charge, or the electrolyte level is too low. To restore life, first check the electrolyte level - if it is lower than required, add distilled water to the jars.

Try to evaluate your capabilities, that is, decide which way is easiest for you to start the battery. It may be possible to start with “ ”, which is only done in cars with manual transmission, but it is not recommended, as this may cause damage, such as belt slippage.

One of the easiest ways to bring a battery back to life is to use a “cigarette lighter” from the battery of another running car. To do this, you just need to stop a car passing by and ask the driver for help.

In the event that there is no possibility of “lighting a cigarette”, you do not dare to start it from the “pusher”, all that remains is to remove the battery to bring it back to life. If the problem occurs at a time when the temperature outside is sub-zero, that is, more than minus 5 degrees Celsius, bring the battery into a warm place so that it warms up.

But before that, make sure that when you turn the ignition key, at least the dashboard lights up, only in this case, after heating the battery to 20 degrees, a charge will appear in it that will be able to turn the starter and start the car.

The ideal option is to charge the battery for a day if you have a charger, which can be purchased at any auto store. After you start the car, you should leave it idling for at least 15 minutes - then the battery will finally “come to life”. In the future, to avoid unpleasant situations, fully charge the battery and contact a service station to detect energy leaks and determine the serviceability of the generator.

Video on the topic

note

The battery charger produces a higher starting current, which leads to the resuscitation of the vehicle's power source.

Helpful advice

The cold season reduces the battery's performance by a quarter, which is why one morning it turns out that it is not able to provide a normal current supply to start the engine. If it is possible to leave the car overnight in a heated garage, then it is better to use it.

Lithium batteries are considered smart, they are equipped with a built-in controller. Lithium is the most active metal, so the batteries are compact and capacious. They contain 1.5-2 times more energy than nickel ones. But this feature also has a downside. It is almost impossible to restore batteries. It's easier to keep them in working order.

Modern batteries remain one of the biggest challenges for both manufacturers and consumers. And the point here is not so much the potential risk of fire, but the gradual depletion of the power source itself. Therefore, you should not be surprised that with daily charging, batteries can withstand a year or two of active use, after which their capacity drops catastrophically and using your favorite gadget becomes problematic. It is impossible to completely revive a dead battery, but you can extend the period of active use while you are busy looking for a replacement. This is what we will talk about today.

The recommendations below are designed for a technically trained user, therefore, if you do not know which side to approach the soldering iron, it is better to either contact the services of a service center or immediately go to the store for a new battery.

Method No. 1

It can help in cases where, due to prolonged operation, gases begin to accumulate inside, as a result of which the battery swells and does not hold a charge well.

Tools and materials needed: soldering iron, some epoxy resin, thin needle, flat heavy object for alignment.

    We disconnect the battery case from the upper block with the sensor as carefully as possible.

    Separate the electronic sensor.

    Under it there should be a cap, inside of which the control electronics are hidden. We carefully pierce it, for which a thin needle is well suited. Remember that if the filling is damaged, it will no longer be possible to revive the battery.

    The most crucial moment. Place the battery on the table and press it with a press. Keep in mind: excessive force can damage the battery, while insufficient force, on the contrary, will not lead to the desired result. It is also strictly not recommended to use a vice or similar devices during repairs.

    Once everything is ready, drop some epoxy onto the hole and solder the sensor.

Method No. 2

It is not able to revive a battery with a significantly reduced resource, but it can extend its life a little. You shouldn’t count on much, but a reconditioned battery can provide power to a modern smartphone while you look for a replacement.

Necessary tools and materials: any power supply (5–12 V, current at least 0.1 A), voltmeter or tester for voltage control, resistor (power at least 500 mW, resistance from 330 to 1000 Ohms).

    If you don’t have a spare power supply, almost any complete one from active network equipment (switches, routers, modems) will do. You must first make sure that the parameters of the current it produces correspond to the required ones.

    We release the contacts of the power supply and connect them to the dead battery: the “minus” of the power supply with the “minus” of the battery, and add a resistor to the “positive” line. Be sure to check the correct polarity of the connection using a multimeter.

    When everything is done, connect the power supply to the network. The procedure time is no more than 2–3 minutes. If possible, monitor the process using a tester: the maximum permissible voltage is no more than 3.3 V.

A few important notes

    Do not leave a problem battery unattended during repairs. Cases of spontaneous combustion are not a theory, but a harsh reality.

    Periodically check the temperature of the “client” with a remote thermocouple, an electronic thermometer, or simply with your hand. If the surface feels hot rather than just warm, stop repairing immediately.

    Excessive charging currents should not be used. The maximum you can afford is 50 mAh. This parameter is calculated as follows: divide the power supply voltage by the resistor capacitance. For example, if the first parameter is 12 V, and the second is 500 Ohm, then the charging current will be 24 mAh.

    Instead of a resistor, you can use a standard 80mm computer fan.

    To avoid spontaneous combustion, it is also recommended to monitor the initial charging of the reconditioned battery.

Method No. 3

The technique is controversial and dubious, but, according to reviews on specialized forums, it helps some users, so the responsibility for possible negative consequences lies with you.

Tools and materials needed: working refrigerator.

    Remove the battery that shows no signs of life from the smartphone and put it in a plastic bag, which should be placed in the freezer for 20–30 minutes.

    Remove it from the device, let it warm up to room temperature, and then charge it as usual.

Method No. 4

A harmless but ineffective resuscitation technique. But if you think that the battery in your smartphone has completely failed, then why not try it?

Required tools and materials: smartphone with standard charger.

    Bring the battery to full discharge (when the phone no longer turns on). Any resource-intensive game or AnTuTu utility can help with this.

    Fully charge the battery to 100%.

    Repeat steps 1 and 2 several times.

Method No. 5

Almost all professional electricians will consider the procedure below to be sacrilege, but it has helped many users of old batteries.

Necessary tools and materials: razor blade, thin screwdriver, moment glue.

    We remove the battery from the phone.

    Peel off the sticker with technical characteristics.

    We cut off the top plastic cover as much as possible, behind which the control electronics are hidden.

    We find the main contacts.

    We briefly close them with any metal object.

    Glue the top cover and let it dry.

We remind you once again that none of the above methods of resuscitation guarantees a 100% result, and all responsibility falls entirely on your shoulders. But if the battery has completely turned off, and the purchase of a new one is postponed for several days, it’s worth a try. But if you rarely pick up a soldering iron and consider yourself a humanitarian, it’s better to turn to a friend who knows the subject for help.

Video instruction

In the first part of the article, maintenance of NiMH AA batteries, we focused on the comparative characteristics of the smart charger (analyzer) TechnoLine BC-700, which left its competitors from the first two types of chargers far behind, without leaving them even the slightest chance.

Today we will continue to consider issues related to this charger-analyzer, using the example of which I will talk about how restore lost capacity of old NiMH(nickel-metal hydride) batteries, or those batteries that have lost their main working capacity due to long-term storage without recharging.

But before we begin to consider issues related to restoring battery capacity, I propose to start the conversation from another point - testing NiMH batteries.


Testing NiMH batteries - TechnoLine BC-700, “TEST” mode

To find out the real capacity of a AA NiMH battery, that is, what state it is in at the moment, we will use the “TEST” mode of the TechnoLine BC-700 charger, pictured below.

Operating principle of the “TEST” mode

The first stage of “CHARGE” is charging the batteries (up to 1.49V - 1.57V);
The second stage “DISCHARGE” - discharge of batteries (up to 0.9V) to determine capacity;
The third stage of “CHARGE” is charging the batteries.

Thus, after completing the second stage - “DISCHARGE”, we will be able to determine the true capacity of a particular battery.

Why test NiMH batteries?

This must be done in order to remove the “weak link” from the battery set, due to which not only the entire set of batteries suffers, but also the equipment in which this set of batteries is installed. If in a set of four batteries one battery is defective, do not expect stable operation from this set.

For example, if you insert a set of freshly charged batteries into a microcomputer flash (Nikon Speedlight SB-900), of which one battery is defective, do not expect full operation of your flash. Moreover, an unbalanced set of NiMH batteries can cause failure of a flash of this class. To prevent this from happening, you should weed out “dead” batteries from the battery set.

In the photo above, the TechnoLine BC-700 charger is operating in “TEST” mode.
The LCD display displays information about current processes, which shows what is currently happening with a specific battery.

And the following happens in the “TEST” mode:

The batteries are charged with a current of 200mA (pictured above, left);
- Discharge current 110mA (pictured above, right);
- Time spent on charging (h);
- Current voltage on the bank (V);
- Battery capacity after the “DISCHARGE” stage (mAh/Ah)

You can switch the display of information for each battery using the “DISPLAY” button by first selecting the desired section by pressing one of the buttons (1,2,3,4). If you press the “DISPLAY” button without first selecting a section, one of the “TEST” mode parameters for all sections will be displayed. Thus, using the LCD display, we can monitor ongoing processes, which is very convenient and useful. Once the testing process is complete, the LCD display will alternately display “FULL” and the capacity of each battery in (mAh) or (Ah).

If the obtained test result confused you a little, it turned out that a “Cossack” was “lost” in the set of NiMH batteries, that is, the low capacity of one or more batteries was detected. In this case, we can try to restore the lost battery capacity. And the “REFRESH” mode, which is provided in the TechnoLine BC-700 charger, will help us in this difficult task.

Restoring battery capacity - TechnoLine BC-700, “REFRESH” mode

Sooner or later, the capacity of NiMH batteries begins to decline. The reasons for capacity loss have already been discussed in the article Storage conditions for NiMH batteries, so I will not repeat them. Restoring battery capacity consists of a series of charge-discharge cycles, the so-called “training”.
The principle is simple: - we discharge the battery to 0.9V, after which we charge it to 1.49V - 1.57V; then discharge-charge again... This will continue until the battery capacity stops increasing. The recovery process can take a week or more... Therefore, since you have decided to resurrect your dead NiMH batteries, you will have to be patient.

In order not to overshadow the process of restoring batteries with a sudden jump in AC voltage, which can damage your favorite charger, or with a banal sudden loss of voltage in the mains, I advise you to connect the charger to an uninterruptible power supply (UPS).

The photo below shows the operating mode of the TechnoLine BC-700 charger - “REFRESH” (recovery).
On the left side of the photo, all 4 batteries are in REFRESH mode; the battery in the first section is discharged - “DISCHARGE”, and the other three are charged - “CHARGE”. This is a normal phenomenon, because you and I already know that there are no absolutely identical NiMH batteries, and even more so if they are quite old. pay attention to charge current 3rd and 4th sections. The charge current is set differently here, specifically to demonstrate the capabilities of this charger.

So, the battery in the third sector is charged with a current of 198mA, and the battery in the fourth sector is charged with a current of 503mA. Independent sectors of the charger give us the opportunity to set the charge/discharge current for each battery individually. This may come in handy when you need simultaneously charge batteries of different capacities, for example, 1800mAh and 3000mAh.
That is, for a 1800mAh battery we can set the charge current to 200mA, and for a battery with a capacity of 3000mAh we can set the charge current to 500mA or any other charging current available on this charger (200mA, 500mA, 700mA).

The charging current can be set using the “CURRENT” button. To activate the current selection mode, after installing the battery and selecting the operating mode of the charger, hold the “CURRENT” button pressed for 1 second, then select the charge current by pressing the button.

The right side of the photo demonstrates the operation of the TechnoLine BC-700 charger, which can operate simultaneously in two different modes. In this case, two modes are set: for sectors 1,2,3 - the “REFRESH” mode with a charge current of 500mA, and the 4th sector is in the “CHARGE” mode with a charge current of 200mA. This may be necessary when you simply need to charge one or more batteries without interrupting the process of restoring the capacity of other batteries.

Note. When charging a NiMH battery in the “CHARGE” mode, there will be a slight increase in the battery capacity compared to the nameplate. For example, a battery with a capacity of 1800mAh will continue to charge up to a capacity of 2520mAh (2.52Ah on the LCD display).
This is a normal phenomenon, do not worry, because... NiMH batteries require a charge of 40% more than their rated capacity. But if the battery capacity when charging exceeds 40% of the permissible norm, for example, by 100% (3.60Ah), then this battery is in a deep coma or simply died, which is why it refuses to accept a charge.

A dead battery can also be identified by signs of excessive heating; During the charging process, a dead NiMH battery heats up an order of magnitude hotter than all the others. This occurs due to the destruction of the battery chemistry and the internal resistance level being too high. It is better to throw away such a battery immediately without wasting time on its restoration.

The high temperature of a NiMH battery (during charging/discharging) promotes irreversible processes of degradation of the chemical elements of the electrolyte, which leads to the destruction of their structure, resulting in an increase in internal resistance and a significant drop in battery capacity. When charging/discharging, avoid excessive heating of the battery; observe the temperature regime: - when you touch the battery with your finger, it should be warm, but not hot. If the temperature of the batteries is too high, they should be provided with forced cooling.
Also, do not charge the battery at low/negative air temperatures and/or too high humidity (more than 75-80%). Optimal conditions for servicing NiMH batteries are a dry, heated living room, air temperature 15-25°C.

When restoring large-capacity batteries (2700mAh - 3000mAh), you should set the charge current to 500mA, respectively, the discharge current to 250mA, in the photo above, see the right side - sectors 2 and 3.
These are the optimal currents for these batteries. If you set a charge current of 200mA for such batteries, the charger may refuse to serve your batteries with such a current, and after the first discharge-charge cycle, it will simply complete the recovery process; You will see the message “FULL” on the LCD display, see photo above - sector 1.

You cannot change the operating mode or charging current of the first sector without removing all batteries from the charger. If in the first sector the charge current is set to 200mA, then in the remaining sectors, when changing the operating mode, it is not allowed to set higher charge currents (500mA, 700mA). If the maximum charge current is set in the first sector (700mA), in the remaining sections you can change the charge current to 200mA or 500mA.
If during operation of a mode, for example, the “REFRESH” mode, using the “MODE” button, you change to another operating mode of the charger for a certain sector, for example, to the “TEST” mode, the selected mode is activated for all sectors.

The completion of the process of restoring NiMH batteries will occur for each battery at a different time, regardless of which set of batteries we are restoring - old batteries or just purchased in a store. The spread in the time it takes to complete the recovery process for each battery can be quite significant: from a few seconds to several days. Yes, they all start at the same time, but they arrive at the finish line at different times.

This is normal practice, do not worry, because... All batteries are individuals, each with its own special “character”. It doesn’t matter which of the NiMH battery packs finished first, the main thing is what result (capacity) they returned to us with.

It is very important that the AA NiMH batteries of the same set have the same or at least approximately the same capacity (+/- 3-5% of the nameplate capacity), because Much depends on their cohesion and balance. For now, let’s put an end to the topic of servicing NiMH AA batteries. I look forward to your questions and comments in the comments. Thank you for your attention.

Comments (19 )

Alcor 01/17/2014 06:36

A small note:
if you put a battery in the first compartment for charging and set the charge current to 500 mA, then in the 2, 3, 4 compartments you can install only 500 or 200 mA, but not 700. In the first compartment, the maximum battery is charged, and in subsequent compartments - a similar or smaller one, because It is impossible to set the current higher than the first compartment.

Denis 01/28/2014 18:27

Unfortunately, I cannot disconnect my stick of metal hydride batteries where each is 6500mAh 1.2v. They are welded into a metal rod. Please advise other options. I have 20 of these sticks and each has 6 of these elements.

Andrey Ko 01/28/2014 18:31

Denis, unfortunately, I can’t help you. In my practice, I have not yet encountered such sticks with batteries inside. Maybe one of the readers can answer your question. I think this charger is not suitable for restoring your batteries, although I could be wrong.

Andrey Ko 01/18/2016 13:26

Oleg, hello!
If you are using TechnoLine BC-700, this behavior of this charger indicates that the inserted battery is almost or completely discharged, so it immediately goes into charging mode.

If you are sure that the battery is not completely discharged but the charger refuses to discharge it, I can assume that the charger has failed or only the first compartment.
After removal, the batteries have a voltage of 1.30v and 1.33v. I insert it into a Canon film camera to check, but it doesn’t work. Frame rewind starts and stops. The batteries are dead, but the TechnoLine BC-700 is trying to charge to no avail. I tried to charge it 3 times and the camera can’t even rewind the frame. Each time TechnoLine BC-700 shows charge numbers above normal. The Sony charger, as befits a smart charger, does not want to charge. Let me add that the Sony automatic charger is fully functional and perfectly charges working batteries.

In the same way, I charged the TechnoLine BC-700, once round Ni-Cd batteries of the “big pill” type from the “Cosmos” flashlight. There are 3 round batteries there. They were also trashed, but I tried charging a few of them on the TechnoLine BC-700. Oddly enough, but here too each battery gained more than 1000mAh. After charging, there is no charge in the battery.

The best way to check a battery or battery is not with a multimeter, but with a 2.5-3.5 volt light bulb from household flashlights. If the light shines brightly, then there is still enough charge in the battery. If the light is not bright and yellow, then the battery is low. A multimeter can show on the battery that the voltage is, for example, 1.2v or 1.3v. It seems that there is a charge, but sometimes the light does not shine at all and even a quartz alarm clock will not work on such a battery.
Andrey Ko 07.11.2016 11:06

We often miss good shots in the forest or at sea, we may be late or stumble in the dark because a simple battery from a camera, watch or flashlight suddenly runs out. It's hard to say exactly when the charge will be used up, unless this is a Duracell model with an indicator. But don't despair! Thanks to a few tips, you can avoid unpredictable situations and take the intended photographs from a digital camera, find out the exact time, illuminate the road, etc. In this article, we will tell you how to charge batteries at home without a charger, which will make life much easier in unpredictable situations.

Know that to charge alkaline batteries you can use a special charger that can relatively quickly restore a discharged item. But each charging session will reduce its operating life by approximately 1/3. In addition, leakage is possible.

Note! At home you can charge: alkaline (alkaline) AA batteries. Don't: salt. The possibility of leakage or even explosion cannot be ruled out!

Charging can be done using various methods. Therefore, you should not throw away an element as soon as it stops serving. A few recommendations - and he is back in action. The first method, using which you can charge AA batteries yourself without a charger. We connect the power supply to the network. Next, using the connection wires, we connect the used battery to the unit. Don't forget about polarity: plus is connected to plus, and minus is connected to minus. It’s quite easy to find where the “-\+” of a discharged object is: they are marked on the body.

Having connected the battery to the power source, wait until it warms up to fifty degrees and turn off the power. Next, wait a few minutes for the heated object to cool down. Otherwise, it may explode. Then, while the AA is still warm, it needs to be charged in a different way. It consists of the following: connect the power supply to electricity and disconnect it. This should take about 120 seconds. Next, we place the object to be charged in the “freezer” for 10 minutes, then take it out and wait 2-3 minutes for it to warm up. That's it, the charge is restored right at home without a charger! You can safely use it for the same computer mouse.

Main rules:

  1. The charge is not feasible if you arrange the + and - in a different way. On the contrary, the battery will drain even faster.
  2. It is permissible to charge the object at home 1-2 times.
  3. Using the method described above, you can only charge simple AA alkaline batteries.
  4. The charge can be carried out in any ambient temperature conditions.


Another charging method is the conventional heating method. But it is fraught with consequences (explosion). In this way, you can restore, again, small alkaline batteries at home. You can also charge them in a simpler way - place discharged objects in hot water, but for no more than 20 seconds, otherwise sad results are possible. Another simple way is to flatten or reduce the volume of the element with your own hands. This way you can charge various AA batteries. There is an example when a person, after the charge of a cast-ion battery had expired, simply took it out and stomped on it, after which the charge indicator showed one hundred percent.

You can also restore the charge without a charger this way: we make 2 holes with an awl near each carbon rod with a depth of three-quarters of the height of the element itself. We pour liquid into them and seal them, covering them with resin or plasticine. You can pour not just liquid, but an eight to ten percent solution of hydrochloric acid or double vinegar. Pour the solution several times to ensure sufficient saturation. This method allows you to charge up to seventy to eighty percent of the initial capacity.

Video instructions for restoring Duracell using a phone charger

Another way to charge the product: open the cell cover with a knife. If the zinc cylinder, the object's rod and the carbon powder are intact, then immerse the object in the salt solution. Its ratio is as follows: 2 tablespoons of table salt per several glasses of liquid. Next, boil the solution together with the element for about ten to fifteen minutes. Then we return the gaskets responsible for sealing to their place and cover them with wax or plasticine.

Alternative charging method

The life of a modern person is very closely connected with a variety of electrical things: be it a portable radio, telephone, flashlight, navigator, camera, and much more! The main thing they all have in common is that they require power sources to function: various batteries and accumulators.

Video version of the article:

Let's talk about some ways to revive dead batteries!

They naturally often sit down, which in turn can deprive us of the chance to use them. And not just in ordinary and calm situations, when we can solve the problem by recharging from the mains or buying a new battery, but also when you are, for example, on a hike or find yourself in a situation where your life is in danger!

Revitalization of AA batteries.

1 wayprobably known to many, it involves impacting the battery (throw it against the wall, gently tap it with a hammer!) This can return some charge, because in this way the oxides that have formed in the battery are destroyed and it will last for some time. From childhood experience, we can note a more radical effect, crushing the battery (with a multi-tool, if any) in its different parts (someone even uses their teeth and simply bites the battery, which of course we do not recommend).

2 . Piercing the battery in different ways in different places, so that the puncture sites do not touch the internal rod. You can pierce randomly, you can make a couple of punctures along the rod at some distance from it, or pierce across the plus and minus, this will have its own effect on internal processes Air will connect to the battery and form an additional electrode.

3. You can also boil our batteries in boiling water (several minutes).

4. There is also another option: make holes and fill them with water, from a syringe or something else, so that the water does not leak out; cover the holes with electrical tape or whatever is at hand.

Revitalizing coin cell batteries

1. Recharging from a AA battery, we will need two wires and a working AA battery, we will connect (with wires) the plus to the plus, and the minus to the minus of our batteries, and keep them like this for some time.