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How to remove the voltage regulator Niva Chevrolet. Design features of the Chevrolet Niva generator. Malfunctions that occur in the operation of the generator

The stator is characterized by a stationary winding, which receives direct current when the engine starts. It creates a magnetic field in the stator, which in turn acts on the rotor (the moving part of the winding). When the engine is running, the rotor is driven by the crankshaft. The rotational force is transmitted via a belt drive. Thus, during the rotation of the rotor, a current arises in it, which is transmitted to the stator through brushes. The current in the stator winding induces an electromotive force, which is converted into alternating voltage. To convert the alternating components of the generator power, a diode bridge rectifier is used.

The generator is designed to charge the battery. If it is faulty, then it is possible to drive the car, but the battery will be drained by all the electronics, which will ultimately lead to the battery becoming unusable. The result of a generator failure will be disastrous, since you will have to shell out a considerable amount of money to buy a battery.

The exact cause of the malfunction can only be determined using special equipment. Determining this at home is more difficult. But you can find out the malfunction by the following signs:

On the instrument panel, after starting the engine, the warning light in the form of a red battery should go out. If the lamp does not go out, this indicates that the battery is not receiving a charge.
With the engine running, the headlights became less bright. This is evidence that the headlights are draining the battery, which is not being recharged.
Noises in the motor. When, with all of the above, you still hear extraneous noise in the form of a clattering or whistling sound, then you should obviously remove and check the device.

The Chevrolet Niva is equipped with electronics that consume a lot of power. In addition, to start such a powerful engine, it is necessary to use a battery with a capacity of at least 60Ah. Which puts a lot of stress on the battery. Therefore, it is important to control its charging from the generator.

What are the causes of Chevrolet Niva generator breakdowns?

The most common cause of failure is a broken belt. The belt has the shortest service life compared to other structural elements. You can detect a broken belt visually by opening the hood and looking at the belt pulley. If the belt is intact, but you hear extraneous noise in the form of a metallic ringing, then most likely the bearings need to be replaced. It can only be detected after removing the device.

The reason why it is easier to buy a new generator rather than repair an old one is because the windings are damaged. If this happens, you need to rewind it or buy a new one. It’s cheaper, of course, to have it repaired, but there is no guarantee that the rewinding will be of high quality and will deliver the “correct” current to the battery. Therefore, the decision which is better is up to you. Brushes periodically fail due to constant friction against the rotor.

Brushes can be replaced at home.

Belt replacement

Replacing a belt is carried out not only when it breaks. To prevent it from breaking along the way, it is necessary to carry out periodic inspections. If the following damage is detected, the belt must be replaced immediately:

When traces of cuts or wear, cracks are found;
If the belt begins to peel off and the threads are visible from it;
The presence of oil and ruffled appearance indicate its unsuitability.

To replace the belt, it is important to arm yourself with the following tools:

mount;
screwdriver;
jack;
a set of keys.

Having purchased a new belt, you can begin installing it:

Disconnect the car from the battery power supply.
Pull out the connector from the crankshaft sensor. To do this, unscrew the mounting bolt with a Phillips screwdriver. The sensor needs to be removed.
The nut that secures the device must be slightly unscrewed and the device moved towards the block.
The worn belt is removed. Since the device is weakened, this is not difficult to do. To do this you need to use a jack.
The right side is jacked up, after placing stops under the wheels. The right wheel will need to be rotated, so you need to put the car in fourth gear.
By pulling the belt, remove it from the pump pulley. Next, the wheel spins, gradually pulling the belt off the pulley.

The removed belt cannot be repaired, so we immediately proceed to installing a new one:

First, the belt is thrown onto the crankshaft pulley, and then sequentially onto all the others.
It is better to end with a generator pulley. The wheel rotates until the belt is put on.
The device is placed on the seat and secured with a bolt.
The sequence of throwing the belt onto the pulleys.
It is important to adjust the tension. Weak tension will not provide the necessary charge to the battery.
The sensor is being installed in its place.

Belt selection. It is better to use a LUZAR brand belt. It is ideal for Chevrolet Niva pulleys.

Removal process

Replacing the belt is the only “easy” alternator repair; all other problems need to be fixed only when it is removed. So, withdrawal is carried out in the following sequence:

Installation in place

After repair or a new generator is put in place in the following order. For ease of readability, the installation order is listed in the table:

Replacing the generator bearing

A worn bearing can be completely freely replaced at home. In addition, it is irrational to buy a new generator if you can get by with replacing the bearing. The bearing replacement process involves disassembling the structural elements of the generator. To do this, you need to remove the device and start disassembling:

It is important not to let the generator get wet, otherwise it may short out.

The process of repairing and replacing a generator is simple, but quite intensive, especially if bearing replacement is necessary. Winding repairs are carried out by specialists, so rewinding the rotor is not easy and almost impossible at home. The winding often fails after long-term operation of the generator, when the car's speedometer has more than 100,000 km.

Or is it still better to take a more powerful one - 100 amperes? I recently thought about this question, because either my gene has become quite worn out and can no longer produce the required voltage. That’s why my battery is almost always dead, so I almost have to immediately turn off the appliances, the stove, etc. In general, if the gene is bad, then you can’t even listen to music in nature for a couple of hours, the battery will die. And if the time has come to change it, then maybe immediately take a more powerful one?

My 2004 Niva Chevrolet has a standard 80 amp alternator. Like this:

I had a generator belt, there was a whole story about how it broke and I got home with grief in half. Be sure to read it, I think it will be useful to many. And take a second spare with you))

Also useful information for Shevik owners - cars before September 2003 have a lower-mounted generator, this is not a hum, when overcoming deep puddles and fords it usually floods and this situation is not a fountain, you understand. It’s not for nothing that many car enthusiasts carry genes that are much higher, both in Nivas and Cheviks.

But since September 2003, Sheviks have come with an overhead generator, this is already an excellent solution. The gene is located at the top right if you are facing the open hood. When overcoming puddles, it will be much more difficult to fill it than the lower ones.

So I started thinking, maybe I’ll install a more powerful generator, because I plan to install a trunk and, of course, a chandelier; I think 4 lamps from hella will fit in quite well. Plus I will also install a winch, and it also drains the battery pretty badly. And if the gene is weak, then when fighting off-road, we can get a situation where we are skidding in the dark, the chandelier is turned on, the engine is boiling - both fans are threshing at full strength, we are pulling with a winch - will the gene be enough for 80 amperes? Such energy consumption, of course, will not happen often, but when it happens, it’s better to be safe, isn’t it?

So I’m looking at a 100-amp Pramo gene, it costs about 3,500 rubles. But first, let's check the generator that I got with the car by default. It seems to me that either the brushes there are worn out, or something else - well, it can’t charge the battery properly, in 4 months of summer use it has already been recharged 3 times. Apparently the gene charges only superficially.

On the other hand, wouldn’t a 100 ampere battery drain the battery? After all, the battery is new and it would be wrong if it only lasts a year or two. As I read again on the forums, a more powerful gene shortens the life of the battery.

I read the reviews of Shnivovodov - the majority say that betting on a hundred is a good thing, but only when it is actually needed, in the sense of needing a gene of increased power. Because the staff is quite enough if it works as it should. But if the car has a winch and additional light, then it is better to install a 100-amp generator. We'll keep thinking))

Note update:

The standard generator has failed - . So far the flight is normal. Like this:

Who thinks what, share your thoughts in the comments.

Complexity

Tool

1 - 3 h

Tools:

Open-end wrench 10 mm
Ratchet wrench
8 mm head
10 mm head
13 mm head
24 mm head
Mounting blade
Marker
Medium Phillips screwdriver
Medium flat screwdriver
Bench vice
Tester
Double jaw puller
Calipers
Torque wrench

Parts and consumables:

Capacitor (if necessary)
Generator rotor (if necessary)
Generator bearings (if necessary)
Generator covers (if necessary)
Rectifier unit (if necessary)
Accumulator battery
Lamp
Wires

Note:

Below is a breakdown to understand the relative placement and functional relationship of the generator parts.

Generator parts 9402.3701-01:

1 - screw;

2 - washer;

3 - pulley;

4 - front cover;

5 - spacer ring;

6 - rotor;

7 - stator;

8 - back cover;

9 - casing;

10 - pad;

11 - protective sleeve;

12 - rectifier unit with capacitor;

13 - brush holder with voltage regulator.

1. Remove the generator from the vehicle as described.

2. Mark the relative positions of the generator covers.

3. Press out the three latches and remove the plastic casing.

4. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws securing the voltage regulator.

5. Disconnect the wire from the regulator terminal and remove the voltage regulator with brush holder.

6. Remove the four rectifier unit mounting screws and the capacitor mounting screw using a Phillips screwdriver.

7. Bend the three leads of the stator winding so that they make it possible to remove the rectifier unit.

8. Remove the rectifier unit with the capacitor.

9. To replace the capacitor, unscrew the contact bolt nut, remove the washer and spacer sleeve. Remove the capacitor wire lug from the contact bolt.

10. Unscrew the four tightening screws (the screws are tightened with a large torque). Spring and flat washers are installed under the screw heads.

11. Using a screwdriver, remove the generator cover from the slip ring side.

12. Clamp the generator rotor in a vice (not too tightly so that the rotor does not rotate) and unscrew the pulley mounting nut. Remove the spring washer and pulley.

13. Remove the thrust washer.

14. Remove the rotor from the drive side cover.

15. Remove the spacer ring from the rotor shaft.

16. Inspect the slip rings. If they have burrs, marks, scratches, signs of wear from brushes, etc., the rings must be sanded. If the damage to the rings cannot be removed with sandpaper, you can grind the rings on a lathe, removing a minimum layer of metal, and then grind them.

17. Check the resistance of the rotor winding with an ohmmeter (tester) by connecting it to the slip rings.

Note:

If the ohmmeter shows infinity, it means there is a break in the windings and the rotor needs to be replaced.

18. Check with a test lamp whether the winding is short-circuited to the rotor body. To do this, turn on the test lamp to a 220 V AC power supply (you can use a battery and a 12 V lamp). Connect one wire to the rotor body, and the second to each ring in turn.

Note:

In both cases, the lamp should not light. If in at least one case the lamp is on, it means there is a short circuit and the rotor needs to be replaced.

19. Inspect the stator. There should be no traces of the armature touching the stator on the inner surface of the stator. If there is wear, the bearings or generator covers must be replaced.

20. Check if there is a break in the stator winding. To do this, turn on the test lamp to a 220 V AC power supply (you can use a battery and a 12 V lamp). Connect a test lamp one by one between all winding terminals.

Note:

In all three cases the lamp should be on. If the lamp does not light up, there is a break in the winding. Replace stator or winding.

21. Check if the stator windings are shorted to the housing. To do this, turn on the test lamp to a 220 V AC power supply (you can use a battery and a 12 V lamp). Connect the lamp to the terminal of the stator winding, and the wire from the current source to the stator housing.

Note:

If the lamp lights up, it means there is a short circuit: the stator or winding needs to be replaced.

22. Inspect the drive-side generator cover and bearing assembly. If, when rotating the bearing, play is felt between the rings, rolling or jamming of the rolling elements, the protective rings are damaged or there are traces of lubricant leakage, and cracks are found in the cover, especially in the places where the generator is attached, it is necessary to replace the cover assembly with the bearing (the bearing in the cover is rolled) .

23. Check the ease of rotation of the bearing on the slip ring side. If, when rotating the bearing, you feel play between the rings, rolling or jamming of the rolling elements, the protective rings are damaged, or there are signs of lubricant leakage, the bearing must be replaced. To do this, use a puller to press the bearing off the rotor shaft and press on a new one using a suitable mandrel, applying force to the inner ring of the bearing.

24. Inspect the generator cover from the slip ring side. If cracks are found, the cover must be replaced.

25. Check the voltage regulator. Connect a 12V test lamp to the brushes. Apply a voltage of 12 V “+” to the terminal, and “-” to the “ground” of the brush holder. In this case, the control lamp should light up.

26. Then apply a voltage of 15-16 V - the lamp should go out. If the lamp is on or off in both cases, then the regulator with brush holder is faulty and needs to be replaced.

27. Check the ease of movement of the brushes in the brush holder and their protrusion. If the brushes protrude less than 5 mm from the brush holder, replace the voltage regulator with brush holder. If chips or cracks are found on the brushes, also replace the regulator.

28. The serviceability of the capacitor can be checked with a megometer or tester (on a scale of 1-10 MOhm). Connect the tester probes to the capacitor contacts. Before connecting, the device shows infinity. At the moment of connection, the resistance decreases and then returns to infinity again. In this case, the capacitor is OK. The faulty capacitor must be replaced.

29. You can check the rectifier unit either with the generator removed or without removing the generator from the car. The verification procedure is the same. For clarity, the test circuits are shown with the generator removed. To check on a car, disconnect the wires from the battery and generator, and also remove the block with the wire from the voltage regulator terminal.

Location of generator rectifier bridge diodes:

1 - positive diodes (with a red mark on the body);

2 - negative diodes (with a black mark on the body);

3 - additional diodes.

30. Check the rectifier unit diodes using a 12V test lamp and battery. To check the short circuit in the positive and negative diodes, connect the “+” batteries through a test lamp to the “B+” terminal of the generator, and the “-” batteries to the generator housing. The lamp should not light up; if it does, it means there is a short circuit. The block needs to be replaced.

31. To check the positive diodes, connect the “+” of the battery through a test lamp to the “B+” terminal of the generator, and the wire coming from the “-” battery to one of the screws securing the stator winding terminal. The lamp should not light up; if it does, it means there is a short circuit in the positive diodes. The block needs to be replaced.

32. To check the negative diodes, connect the “+” battery through a test lamp to one of the stator winding terminal mounting screws, and the wire coming from the “-” battery to the generator housing. The lamp should not light up; if it does, it means there is a short circuit in the negative diodes. The block needs to be replaced.

33. To check additional diodes, connect the “+” battery through a test lamp to the contact block of the voltage regulator, and the wire coming from the “-” battery to one of the screws securing the stator winding output. The lamp should not light up; if it does, it means there is a short circuit in the additional diodes. The block needs to be replaced.

34. Reassemble the generator in the reverse order of removal. At the same time, orient the generator covers in accordance with the previously made marks. Install the spring washer of the generator pulley with its convex side facing the nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 39-62 Nm (3.9-6.2 kgfm).

The article is missing:

Photo of the instrument

Generator Chevrolet Niva

Design Features

Generator type 9402.3701-01 alternating current, three-phase, with built-in rectifier unit and electronic voltage regulator, right rotation (drive side).

The generator installed on the car used for photography is driven by a V-belt. Repair work is shown using the example of a generator with a multi-belt pulley. All elements of both generators, except for the pulleys, are absolutely identical.

The generator armature is driven into rotation from the crankshaft pulley by a V-belt or (depending on the version) by a poly-V-belt.

Rice. 9.3. Generator 9402.3701-01:

rectifier block;

bearing bushing;

rear rotor shaft bearing;

slip rings;

protective sleeve;

output “B+” of the generator;

pad;

voltage regulator with brush holder;

clamping screw;

back cover;
front cover;

spacer ring;

front bearing;

Stator 12 (Fig. 9.3) and covers 11 and 13 are tightened with four screws. The rotor shaft 18 rotates in bearings 3 and 15, which are installed in the covers. Power is supplied to the rotor winding (excitation winding) through brushes and slip rings 4.

The three-phase alternating current induced in the stator winding is converted into direct current by a rectifier unit 1 attached to the cover 11. The electronic voltage regulator 9 is combined into one unit with a brush holder and is also attached to the cover 11.

Rice. 9.4. Generator system connection diagram:

accumulator battery;

generator;

battery charge indicator lamp located in the instrument cluster;

mounting block;

ignition switch

The generator connection diagram is shown in Fig. 9.4. The voltage to excite the generator when the ignition is turned on is supplied to terminal “D+” of the regulator (terminal “D” of the generator) through indicator lamp 3 located in the instrument cluster. After starting the engine, the excitation winding is powered by three additional diodes installed on the generator rectifier block.

The “W” output of the generator is not used on vehicles of the VAZ-2123 family.

The operation of the generator is controlled by a warning lamp in the instrument cluster. When the ignition is turned on, the lamp should be on, and after starting the engine, it should go out if the generator is working. A brightly lit lamp or glowing at full intensity indicates a malfunction.

Generator specifications

If the alternator belt breaks along the way and you forgot the spare one at home, a 20 mm wide ring cut from an old car inner tube can temporarily replace it. To reduce current consumption when driving a car with a faulty generator, if possible, turn off the radio, unnecessary lighting, heater fan, heated glass, etc.

Removing and installing the generator

1. Disconnect the wire from the “-” terminal of the battery.

2. Disconnect the block with the wire from terminal “D” of the generator.

3. Remove the protective cover,

4. Unscrew the nut and disconnect the wires from the contact bolt (terminal “B+”).

5. Unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the generator to the tension bar and

6. Remove the bolt.

7. Unscrew the nut of the generator lower mounting bolt.

8. Remove the generator drive belt.

9. Remove the bolt and use a mounting spudger to remove the generator from the bracket.

10. Remove the generator.

11. Install the generator in the reverse order of removal. After installation, adjust the tension of the generator drive belt (see “Adjusting the tension and replacing the generator and water pump drive belt”).

Generator repair

You will need: 10mm wrenches, Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers, ohmmeter (autotester), test lamp.

1. Remove the generator from the car (see “Removing and installing the generator”).

Rice. 9.5. Generator parts:

front cover;

spacer ring;
back cover;
pad;

protective sleeve;

rectifier unit with capacitor;

brush holder with voltage regulator

2. Mark the relative positions of covers 4 and 8 (Fig. 9.5) of the generator.

3. Press out the three latches.

4. Remove the plastic casing.

5. Remove the two screws securing the voltage regulator.

6. Remove the voltage regulator with brush holder,

7. Disconnecting the wire from the regulator terminal.

8. Remove the four screws securing the rectifier unit and the screw securing the capacitor.

9. Bend the three leads of the stator winding so that they make it possible to remove the rectifier unit.

10. Remove the rectifier unit with the capacitor.

11. To replace the capacitor, unscrew the contact bolt nut, remove the washer and spacer sleeve. Remove the capacitor wire lug from the contact bolt.

12. Remove the four tightening screws (the screws are tightened with a large torque). Spring and flat washers are installed under the screw heads.

13. Using a screwdriver, remove the generator cover from the slip ring side.

14. Clamp the generator rotor in a vice (not too tightly so that the rotor does not rotate) and unscrew the pulley mounting nut. Remove the spring washer and pulley.

15. Remove the thrust washer.

16. Remove the rotor from the drive side cover.

17. Remove the spacer ring from the rotor shaft.

18. Inspect the slip rings. If they have burrs, marks, scratches, signs of wear from brushes, etc., the rings must be sanded. If the damage to the rings cannot be removed with sandpaper, you can grind the rings on a lathe, removing a minimum layer of metal, and then grind them.

19. Check the resistance of the rotor winding with an ohmmeter (tester) by connecting it to the slip rings. If the ohmmeter shows infinity, it means there is a break in the windings and the rotor needs to be replaced.

20. Check with a test lamp whether the winding is shorted to the rotor body. To do this, turn on the test lamp to a 220 V AC power supply (you can use a battery and a 12 V lamp). Connect one wire to the rotor body, and the second to each ring in turn. In both cases, the lamp should not light. If in at least one case the lamp is on, it means there is a short circuit and the rotor needs to be replaced.

21. Inspect the stator. There should be no traces of the armature touching the stator on the inner surface of the stator. If there is wear, the bearings or generator covers must be replaced.

22. Check if there is a break in the stator winding. To do this, turn on the test lamp to a 220 V AC power supply (you can use a battery and a 12 V lamp). Connect a test lamp one by one between all winding terminals. In all three cases the lamp should be on. If the lamp does not light up, there is a break in the winding. Replace stator or winding.

23. Check if the stator windings are shorted to the housing. To do this, turn on the test lamp to a 220 V AC power supply (you can use a battery and a 12 V lamp). Connect the lamp to the terminal of the stator winding, and the wire from the current source to the stator housing. If the lamp lights up, it means there is a short circuit: the stator or winding needs to be replaced.

24. Inspect the drive-side generator cover and bearing assembly. If, when rotating the bearing, play is felt between the rings, rolling or jamming of the rolling elements, the protective rings are damaged or there are traces of lubricant leakage, and cracks are found in the cover, especially in the places where the generator is attached, it is necessary to replace the cover assembly with the bearing (the bearing in the cover is rolled) .

25. Check the ease of rotation of the bearing on the slip ring side. If, when rotating the bearing, you feel play between the rings, rolling or jamming of the rolling elements, the protective rings are damaged, or there are signs of lubricant leakage, the bearing must be replaced. To do this, use a puller to press the bearing off the rotor shaft and press on a new one using a suitable mandrel, applying force to the inner ring of the bearing.

26. Inspect the generator cover from the slip ring side. If cracks are found, the cover must be replaced.

Rice. 9.6. Circuit for checking the voltage regulator:

control lamp;

voltage regulator ground terminal;

output “DF” of the voltage regulator;

voltage regulator;

output “D+” of the voltage regulator;

A - to the power source

27. Check the serviceability of the voltage regulator (see Fig. 9.6).

28. Check the condition of the capacitor. Damage to the capacitor or loosening of its mounting on the generator (deterioration of contact with ground) is detected by an increase in interference to radio reception when the engine is running. The capacitor can be checked with a megger or tester. If there is no break in the capacitor, then at the moment the probes of the device are connected to the terminals of the capacitor, the arrow should deviate in the direction of decreasing resistance, and then gradually return back.

29. You can check the rectifier unit either with the generator removed or without removing the generator from the car. The verification procedure is the same. For clarity, the test circuits are shown with the generator removed. To check on a car, disconnect the wires from the battery and generator, and also remove the block with the wire from the voltage regulator terminal.

This is how the diodes of the generator rectifier bridge are located:

positive diodes (with a red mark on the body);

negative diodes (with a black mark on the body);

additional diodes.

30. Remove the brush holder from the generator.

31. Check the rectifier unit diodes using a 12 V test lamp and battery. To check the short circuit in the positive and negative diodes, connect the “+” batteries through a test lamp to the “B+” terminal of the generator, and the “-” batteries to the generator housing. The lamp should not be lit; if it lights up, it means there is a short circuit. The block needs to be replaced.

32. To check the positive diodes, connect the “+” of the battery through a test lamp to the “B+” terminal of the generator, and the wire coming from the “-” battery to one of the screws securing the stator winding terminal. The lamp should not be lit; if it lights up, it means there is a short circuit in the positive diodes. The block needs to be replaced.

33. To check the negative diodes, connect the “+” battery through a test lamp to one of the stator winding terminal mounting screws, and the wire coming from the “-” battery to the generator housing. The lamp should not be lit; if it lights up, it means there is a short circuit in the negative diodes. The block needs to be replaced.

34. To check additional diodes, connect the “+” of the battery through a test lamp to the contact of the connecting block of the voltage regulator, and the wire coming from the “-” battery to one of the screws securing the stator winding output. The lamp should not be lit; if it lights up, it means there is a short circuit in the additional diodes. The block needs to be replaced.

35. Reassemble the generator in the reverse order of removal. At the same time, orient the generator covers in accordance with the previously made marks. Install the spring washer of the generator pulley with its convex side facing the nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 39-62 Nm (3.9-6.2 kgfm).

The real favorite among SUVs in the modern automobile market of the country is the Chevrolet Niva. It combines the excellent qualities of both a touring SUV and a car for family trips. Thanks to its light weight and short overhangs, the Chevrolet Niva can drive off-road and ford. It can handle steep climbs with ease.

But the electronics system is one of the most vulnerable parts of a car. With regular inspection of electrical elements and timely removal of dirt and moisture from them, repairs will not be required even throughout the entire operation of the vehicle.

Generator operation

The Niva Chevrolet generator is responsible for the reliable and high-quality operation of the electronics system. The owner should identify possible malfunctions in a timely manner and carry out high-quality repairs, since the functioning of all lighting devices depends on its good condition. This also affects the battery charge. A continuous supply of current is provided by a generator.

Although it has small dimensions, the generator is very durable. To prevent damage and failure of the car regulator, the owner must follow the rules for operating the car.

Particular attention should be paid to the Niva Chevrolet. Malfunctions that led to a malfunction in its operation can be determined using automotive diagnostics. And the repair depends entirely on the degree of complexity of the breakdown.

Malfunctions that occur in the operation of the generator

The Chevrolet Niva generator, the photo of which is provided in our article, may have the following malfunctions:

the pulley is damaged or completely worn out;
current collecting brushes are worn out;
rectifier failure;
voltage regulator failure;
the collector is worn out;
the bearing is worn out or completely destroyed;
The charging circuit wires are damaged.

The car owner needs to become familiar with the main reasons why they occur. In addition, it is necessary to know how to eliminate these breakdowns, as well as preventive measures to prevent them.

Generator "Niva Chevrolet"

Depending on the type of current, generators can be either direct or alternating current. Owners of the named car sometimes do not know what generators are used for this model? The Chevrolet Niva was provided with an electromechanical alternating current device. There is a built-in diode bridge - rectifier. To provide work to electrical consumers, it converts alternating current into direct current. The diode bridge with the generator is one mechanism; they can be located both in the housing and in the cover of the generator.

The operation of the latter is affected by the speed of the vehicle and its engine speed, since the generator is connected by a belt to its crankshaft. To regulate the output current, it is installed. In addition, modern generators have built-in integrated voltage regulators.

The Chevrolet Niva generator may be subject to the following malfunctions:

electric;
mechanical.

If the malfunction is of a mechanical type, then it includes a breakdown of the fastening, housing, faulty condition of the pressure springs, bearings, belt drive or other breakdowns that are not related to the electrical system.

With the first type of malfunction, the winding may break, the brush may burn out or wear out, the rotor may break through, and a short circuit may occur between the turns. The diode bridge and the relay regulator may be faulty.

Sometimes signs appear indicating that the Chevrolet Niva generator is in a faulty condition, but this problem can be caused by completely different breakdowns.

Signs of a generator malfunction

As a rule, there are several signs of a generator malfunction:

When the engine is running, the battery discharge warning light flashes or stays on continuously without interruption.
Car headlights are dim in color, and when the engine is running, the sound signal rattles or is completely quiet.
The battery quickly loses charge.
As the number of revolutions increases, the brightness of the headlights changes significantly.

Alternator belt "Niva Chevrolet"

To avoid getting into an unpleasant situation, you need to ensure that the Chevrolet Niva alternator belt is in working condition. Thus, the presence of mechanical damage to the pulley can lead to damage to the belt, as a result, it can break.

Replacing the alternator belt

To change a Chevrolet Niva, you need to use the following tools:

screwdriver;
jack;
a set of keys.

In a Chevrolet Niva car, replacing the alternator belt is as follows:

You need to remove the connector from the crankshaft position sensor.
Unscrew and remove the bolt that secures the sensor.
The nut securing the generator needs to be loosened slightly and moved towards the block. If the generator is displaced, its belt will loosen and can be removed without problems.
Using a jack installed on the side where the generator is located, raise the car by engaging first gear.
Pull the belt until it moves away from the pump pulley. Rotate the wheel so that the place of the guy moves onto the pulley.
Then remove the belt from the other pulleys.
The new one must first be put on the generator pulley and the crankshaft pulley, and only then put on the pump pulley.
Turn the wheel until the belt is on the pulley.
Put the generator in place, and tighten the belt, attach it to the bracket with a nut.
Replace the crankshaft position sensor.

The process of replacing the alternator belt is complete.

Generator roller

Belt tension affects the operation of the generator. And the Chevrolet Niva generator roller regulates it. While operating the vehicle, you must ensure that the roller is in good condition. If there is the slightest suspicion of a breakdown, the Chevrolet Niva must be repaired.

How to replace the tension roller

The design of the generator roller is quite simple. The bearing is its main part. If the belt loosens or slows down, you need to check the bearing itself by turning it by hand. A serviceable roller rotates quietly, without jerking or biting. If the roller is faulty, it is necessary to replace it, which is possible even in the garage, with a minimum set of tools.

Install a pry bar or other tool that can prevent the crankshaft from moving so that the clutch disc is blocked. By loosening the bolt that secures the roller, relieve the tension on the belt. Having completely unscrewed the axial bolt, the tension roller is removed. Then a new roller is installed and the belt tension is adjusted.

After replacing the roller, you need to re-inspect and check its operation. The instruction manual contains detailed instructions regarding the problem described.

Generator brushes

Worn brushes on the Chevrolet Niva generator can lead to a voltage drop in the vehicle's electrical system. This is considered one of the main and common causes of this type of malfunction. But since the generator has a simple design and is easy to access, even an inexperienced car enthusiast can replace its brushes.

The main signs of brush failure are:

voltage drops occur;
weak headlights at night, blinking;
The radio turns off, etc.

Usually, when passing a technical inspection, small elements of the generator are rarely checked. Therefore, worn brushes can make themselves known unexpectedly. But before you decide that replacing the Niva Chevrolet generator brushes is necessary, you need to find out if there are other faults that can cause similar symptoms. And only after making sure, you can disassemble the generator housing.

Replacing the generator brush

When replacing brushes, the voltage regulator is removed together with them as an assembly. In this case, the negative cable is removed and the wires that come from the generator casing are disconnected.

Then the wiring block is disconnected. From their tips with a positive terminal, it is necessary to remove the rubber cap, which performs protective functions. Then from these wires you need to unscrew the nut with which they were attached to the generator block and remove them.

After disconnecting the spring clamps of the generator, you should remove its black casing, made of plastic. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the voltage regulator fasteners. Get it complete with brushes. Then disconnect the wire block from it.

Replace the generator brushes and install them back, following the reverse order.

If the length of the brush rods is less than 0.5 mm, they must be replaced. But if the brushes are in working condition, and the Chevrolet Niva generator does not supply a charge, it is necessary to check the operation of the voltage regulator and the circuit from the regulator to the brushes.

Reasons for replacing the generator

One of the reasons when replacing a generator on a Chevrolet Niva is simply necessary is damage to the windings. If this happens, then either a rewind is needed, or you will have to purchase a new generator. Maybe the repair will cost a little less, but no one will give you guarantees about the quality of rewinding and the uninterrupted supply of current to the battery.

Removing the generator

For this process you need to take a Phillips screwdriver. In addition, you need to use a car tester or ohmmeter, a 10mm wrench and a test lamp.

To change the generator, it must be removed from the engine compartment. First, disconnect the wire and terminal of the battery with a negative charge. Next, disconnect the block with wires and the generator output, and take out the protective cover from there. Then, unscrewing the nut, disconnect the wires on the generator contact bolt. Then unscrew the bolt that secures the generator to the tension bar and pull it out. It is also necessary to unscrew the bolt-shaped fastening at the bottom of the generator.

Then you should remove the belt. After removing all the bolts, the generator must be removed from the bracket using a mounting spudger. To install a new one, you need to go through the entire process in reverse order.

After replacing the described electromechanical device, you need to inspect its drive belt and adjust its tension. But before you replace the old Niva Chevrolet generator with a new one, you need to make sure that the replacement is really necessary. There are times when you can do repairs yourself, without the help of specialists.

In order to avoid confusion, you need to note how the generator covers are correctly positioned. Next, you need to remove the plastic protective casing by unfastening the three latches on it. The voltage regulator and brush holder are removed together. In order to release the rectifier unit and capacitor, it is necessary to disconnect the wires from the regulator terminal. The stator winding has three terminals. And in order to carry out the operation to remove the rectifier unit and capacitor, you need to bend these leads a little. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry off the side where the slip rings are located and remove the cover from the generator.

Holding the generator rotor in a vice, unscrew the fastening from the pulley. Then remove the spring washer, pulley and thrust washer. Then the rotor and spacer ring are carefully pulled out and their condition is checked. If the ring shows signs of damage, scratches and is noticeably worn out, it needs to be sanded with regular sandpaper. If the result is poor, the ring is ground on a lathe to remove a small layer of metal.

Having connected the rotor to the slip rings, check the resistance of its winding with a tester. If the wiring is broken, the meter will show an infinite reading. For this reason, the rotor must be replaced.

To check whether the rotor winding closes or not, you need to connect the test lamp to a network carrying 220 V alternating current. One wire of the lamp is connected to the rotor, and each ring is connected to the second in turn. If the lamp lights up, the rotor needs to be replaced.