Mazda

Connecting the engine cooling fan. How to turn on the cooling fan on a VAZ VAZ 2110 cooling fan diagram

To maintain optimal temperature conditions of the car engine, a cooling system is designed. Its main elements are channels for antifreeze in the cylinder block, pipes, a thermostat, a radiator, and the electrical part includes a VAZ 2110 fan switch sensor, a temperature sensor and an electric motor with an impeller for. Late detection of cooling system defects can lead to engine overheating and costly repairs.

Fan switch sensor LS 0108 (TM-108)

Connection schemes

In VAZ 2110 injection and carburetor engines, the TM-108 bimetallic temperature sensor is used in different ways to control turning the fan motor on and off.

For carburetor engines it is located on the radiator on the left in the direction of travel. When the threaded part located directly in the coolant is heated, the bimetallic plate bends and closes the contacts. The voltage from the battery is supplied through a fuse to one contact of the electric motor, the second, when the sensor is triggered, is connected to the housing, setting the impeller in motion.

Fan switching sensor (carburetor VAZ 2110)

For VAZ 2110 and TM-108 injectors, it is located near the thermostat, the signal is sent to the electronic control unit (ECU). The control signal from the ECU is sent to the cooling system fan relay, which, similar to the sensor of a carburetor engine, controls the electric motor.

Injection fan switch sensor

All engines have another device in the cylinder block, the signal of which is used to indicate the coolant temperature on the panel in the cabin.

Before independently repairing the fan switch sensor, it is recommended to understand in detail the design of the cooling system:

The fan does not turn on

There may be several reasons for this:

Fuse. In the mounting block, fuse F7, rated 20 amperes, may be faulty - it is responsible for powering the electric fan and sound signal circuits;
Thermostat. The liquid circulates only in a small circle, the radiator and sensor do not heat up, and accordingly, the fan does not turn on. You can check by simply probing the pipes; those connecting to the radiator should begin to warm up after opening the thermostat;
Sensor. For a VAZ 2110 with a carburetor, the contacts are closed for testing; if the device malfunctions, the electric fan will turn on. The connector of the injection motor must be disconnected; with the remaining elements working, the ECU will detect a break in the circuit and issue a constant alarm signal to the relay, which will forcibly turn on the electric motor for cooling;
Cooling system fan relay for VAZ 2110 injection engines. The sensor is turned off and the power contacts on the relay located in the additional fuse box are closed. If everything works, then we check the control winding: on one contact there is always a positive from the main relay, connecting the second to the body, we try to hear the operation click. But it’s better to simply replace the relay for testing, temporarily, with a known good one;
Electric motor. During testing, the connector is disconnected; to force the impeller to turn on, voltage is supplied directly from the battery.

If all the elements are working properly, then you need to look for a break in the wires, “ringing” them one by one. Poor contact of the relay and sensor connection wire terminals with the car body is also possible. The worst case scenario would be an ECU failure, in which case the signal from “leg” 46 usually “floats” and does not reach the values of +12 volts (off) and 0 (on).

The fan runs constantly

This is a rarer defect and occurs in the following cases:

The sensor contacts do not open, the “Check Engine” lamp is on, for carburetor VAZ 2110, when the connector is disconnected, the fan turns off;
The wires to the device are broken (only at the injector);
The relay is stuck in the closed state.

To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to replace the failed element.

Checking at home

Sometimes the electric motor turns on too late, when the antifreeze temperature is already high. This may be caused by a malfunction of the valve in the radiator cap or abnormal parameters of the switch on sensor. You can check the device’s response temperature at home using a multimeter and thermometer.

After disconnecting the electrical connector, the sensor is unscrewed with a key. To avoid burns, remove the device only from a cold engine, after draining the antifreeze. When reinstalling, it is advisable to use a new sealing copper washer and not apply too much force when tightening.

The intricacies of replacing antifreeze are studied in detail in this article:

The switching temperature is engraved on the end; it can be from 92 to 95 degrees. To check, you need to connect the multimeter in resistance measurement mode and immerse the threaded part in a container of water.

While heating the water and monitoring the readings of the multimeter, we use a thermometer to record the moment it turns on, and when it cools down, the temperature it turns off. Standardly, these are 92 and 87 degrees; with significant deviations, late response is especially critical, the device requires replacement.

To improve cooling, it is possible to install a double fan from Niva. There are two modifications for placement: after the radiator or in front of it.

Nivovsky injection radiator 21214-1300024-43 (placed in front of the radiator)

On the VAZ 2110, any of the options can be installed with minimal modifications to the fasteners on site. When electric motors are connected in parallel, the current consumption increases to 40 amperes, which requires replacement of the wiring.

Nivovsky suction radiator (placed after the radiator)

Monitor the engine temperature. If you notice overheating too late, then in addition to boiling of the antifreeze and a forced stop, more serious consequences are possible: deformation of the cylinder head, jamming of the camshaft. If there are defects in the operation of the cooling system fan of the VAZ 2110, the faults can be diagnosed independently by checking the thermostat, electric motor, relay, and switch sensor.

An engine operating at extreme temperatures will require expensive repairs or replacement.
How to organize uninterrupted engine cooling? Why does the VAZ 2110 injector cooling fan not work?

A 10-minute reading will provide answers to these and many other questions. The article is based on
generalized experience of professional mechanics and auto electricians. Clear, proven tips will help you find and troubleshoot problems and avoid unwanted breakdowns.

The design is a closed circuit, inside which coolant is pumped through a centrifugal pump. The radiator releases the temperature generated by the engine into the atmosphere. The sensor installed on the thermostat pipe senses the coolant heating threshold of 105 - 107 degrees Celsius, provides information to the controller. The controller sends a signal to the relay, starting the electric motor of the fan. The radiator honeycombs are blown.

The principle of operation of the cooling system of the VAZ 2110 injector 16 valves: 1 - heater radiator; 2 - coolant drain hose from the heater radiator; 3 - coolant supply hose to the heater radiator; 4 - coolant pump hose; 5 - expansion tank hose; 6 - steam removal hose of the heater radiator; 7 - expansion tank cap; 8 - expansion tank; 9 - thermostat; 10 - coolant drain hose from the engine radiator; 11 - hose for supplying fluid to the throttle assembly; 12 - steam exhaust hose of the engine radiator; 13 - fluid supply hose to the engine radiator; 14 - engine radiator; 15 - radiator drain plug; 16 - electric engine radiator fan; 17 - coolant pump; 18 - supply pipe of the coolant pump; 19 - coolant drain hose from the throttle body.

Safety regulations

Open the expansion tank cap after the engine has cooled down.
When working under the hood, beware of rotating blades and a hot engine.
Use auxiliary, serviceable conductors with a cross-section of 2 mm.
Use standard fuses of the required rating.
Use a proper tool.
Insulate “bare” contacts, avoiding short circuits in the electrical wiring.

The driver notices that the temperature on the device has reached a threshold value. Fan noise
absent. You should urgently choose a safe place and stop. Turn off the ignition. Operating the engine at a temperature above the threshold for 20 minutes causes irreversible consequences.

There are seven known reasons why the fan on a VAZ 2110 does not turn on.

The safety valve of the tank is stuck and not sealed.
The integrity of the conductors is broken, there is poor contact at the connection points of the circuit elements.
The fuse link on the control panel has burned out, there is no contact in the fuse sockets.
The temperature sensor is faulty.
The relay for turning on the electric fan drive is damaged.
The fan motor has burnt out.
The controller is faulty.

Procedure. Step-by-step instruction

If after completing the next step the problem goes away, further checks are stopped.

Open the hood.
Wait for the engine to cool down.
Perform an initial visual inspection: integrity of hoses, reliability of clamps, lack of
drips, cracks.
Make sure that the expander cover elements are in good condition. Remove scale, rust, clear holes, wipe, assemble. The absence of noticeable damage to parts gives hope that the product will work.

The valve design is elementary. The cover contains a spring. Functionally it is intended
regulate the pressure in the cooling circuit. A hot engine increases it, a cold engine decreases it.

Compressing at a value of 1.1 atmospheres, the spring relieves excess pressure and prevents destruction
hoses, tank. As the motor cools, it creates a vacuum effect. The tank will begin to flatten. Valve
equalizes pressure.

The lid screws tightly on the thread, eliminating distortions. There should be a gap between it and the body.
An overtightened valve will not work. It is difficult to test the device's operation in road conditions. Check
perhaps replacing it with a known good one.

Inspect the electrical wiring elements to ensure a reliable connection

Possible factors for damage to electrical circuits:

vibration;
oxidation;
burning;
breakage, fraying of electrical wires;
insulation aging, short circuit.

Switch the tester to resistance measurement mode. Remove it with special tweezers and ring the fuse link F7 located in the mounting block.

Attention! It is important to find out and eliminate the cause of burnout.

Replace the burnt-out element with a serviceable one with a rating of 20A. Inspect and clean the nest. Insert fuse.

It was not possible to find out the reason, the protection triggered again - look for a short circuit.

Disconnect the fan plug. Use a tester to measure the circuit of the electric motor windings. Zero resistance or a break indicate the need to replace the radiator blower electric drive.

Interturn short circuits that cause multiple replacements of fuse links cannot be measured with the device.

Sensor check

Start the car. Pull out the coolant temperature sensor connector. The fan starts working - the sensor needs to be replaced. Secure the disconnected wire. Drive to a nearby service station.

Relay test

There is a hatch on the floor at the front passenger's feet.

Below it is a built-in panel with three relays of the same type:

fan installation;
fuel pump;
ignition (main thing).

By replacing each other, try to start the airflow. The VAZ 2110 fan does not work - go to the next step.

Check the electric motor

Winding measurements did not reveal a malfunction. Apply voltage from the battery briefly,
using additional insulated conductors. Fan operation indicates a malfunction
controller that does not output a signal to the relay.

The only correct solution is to turn on the airflow directly and urgently visit a service station.
Prevention of breakdowns of the cooling system of the VAZ 2110 injector 16 valves.
Periodically inspect the components of the cooling system.
Monitor the cooling temperature on the device, listen to the operation of the fan.
Maintain coolant level. Replace after 2 years or 30,000 km.
Use the solution to remove rust and scale.
Signs of a change in the properties of the coolant are a change in color, an increase in fluidity.
Check the density with a hydrometer.
Do not mix coolants.
Every twelve months, rinse the expansion tank cap with water and check it on a stand with a pressure gauge.
Avoid contact of aggressive liquids with electrical wiring and electric motor windings.

Improvements to the fan start control circuit for the VAZ 2110 injector

The smooth functioning of the engine worries factory designers, auto mechanics, and car enthusiasts.
Folk craftsmen change the design of valves and electrical circuits.

Installation of three position toggle switch:

continuously on: the VAZ 2110 cooling fan does not work;
constantly switched off: warming up the engine when starting in the cold season, automatic control is faulty;
automatic mode: controlled by the controller, the equipment is working properly, the algorithm is executed correctly.

When choosing an installation location, consider the following conditions:

prevent accidental switching;
not to be confused with other controls.

It is important to remember when modifying the design about the safety of the changes made.

Attention! All wiring diagrams are provided "As Is". We do not accept any liability for any possible damage associated with their use and application. You use the electrical circuits below at your own peril and risk! Most of the schemes are theoretical developments and have not been tested in practice!

The presence of several temperature control channels provides quite wide possibilities for designing a cooling system.

Since installing a fan on a Gazelle is not a standard procedure, there are many options for its implementation. Therefore, if you have a need for any other option not described below, write to me by email [email protected]— I will help you develop your own connection option, taking into account the availability of specific spare parts and functionality requirements. A diagram of this option will be added to this page.

Also send feedback on the operation of installed and tested cooling schemes - they will be published on to facilitate the choice and to avoid mistakes by those who follow us.

Connect the power wires to the battery with wires with a cross-section no less than that of the fan wires.
Place power wire fuses as close as possible to the point of connection to the battery.
It is convenient to place the relay on the side surface of the body behind the right headlight, closer to the battery.
If the negative wire is common to both fans, its cross-section must be at least the sum of the cross-sections of the negative wires of both fans.
To connect the wires, use terminals and crimped copper tubes, and carefully insulate the wire connections.
Secure the wiring harness with plastic clamps to the body or existing harnesses to prevent the insulation from rubbing against sharp edges due to vibration.
Additional contacts of the “Lira” type in the ECU connector for pins 25 and 33 can be removed from most GAZ wiring connectors - injector connectors, speed sensors, phase sensors, DPKV, TPS, IAC, temperature, detonation..) Very difficult - but possible.

Scheme 1. One main fan.

The simplest connection diagram. In this case, the temperature at which the fan turns on is determined by the frog or the ECU with pins 33 or 25. The fan is the main one and only works at full power.

If you installed two fans on the radiator, then you can add a similar circuit to service the second fan, taking the control signal from a free pin (frog, ECU pin 33 or 25).

This will ensure increased reliability of the cooling system (if one fan fails, the other remaining one will handle the cooling), as well as the ability to turn on the fans at different temperatures (for example, from the frog, Fan1 turns on at 88 degrees, and from ECU pin 33, Fan2 turns on at 92 degrees ). When two fans operate simultaneously, the cooling efficiency will be doubled - you can go to Dakar and safely skid.

Option 2. Serial connection of two fans.

Also a simple circuit on one relay. In the previous circuit, another fan is added sequentially to the first one. This is exactly the connection option on my Gazelle. The fans turn on both at the same time at a reduced speed and rotate approximately 3-4 times slower than a regular fan (depending on the additional fan - the lower its power, the slower both fans will rotate).

This scheme was tested throughout the summer of 2015 - when two fans rotated at low speed, no problems with overheating arose. However, I note that in hot weather they did not turn off at all.

The undoubted advantage of turning on the fans at low speed is a small jump in the current in the circuit during startup, as well as 2 or more times less current consumption during operation, which does not lead to overheating and failure of the fan motors. The low noise level is also pleasing.

Two 8-blade fans from VAZ are, in my opinion, the best choice for this scheme. I’m almost sure that when rotating at half speed (this is how they will rotate when connected in series), they will be more than enough for normal cooling of the Gazelle.

Option 3. Two-speed fan.

In this case, a circuit with two fans connected in series is used, which ensures smooth switching on and cooling in a soft mode with the ability to turn on a powerful mode. The first switching level is controlled by relay 1 from pin 33 of the ECU. If it is necessary to turn on the cooling system in powerful mode, additional relay 2 is supplied with a turn-on signal from contact 25 of the ECU (Air conditioner relay control).

In this case, the main fan 2 will switch from slow rotation to fast rotation, and the additional fan 1 will stop rotating.

When using two similar fans, this scheme does not provide any gain in cooling efficiency.

In this scheme, it is more correct to use a less powerful fan than the main one as an additional one. Using a suitable resistor (for example, like a stove resistor) instead of an additional fan will also give a good result. Power can be estimated by the resistance of the fan winding. Choose an additional fan or an additional resistor with a resistance of 2-3 Ohms for a current of 5-7 Amps.

As a result, we get a smooth start of the fan in soft cooling mode at 30-50 percent of the rotation speed, and if necessary, the most powerful mode will be turned on without a sharp jump in current at the time of start-up, since the main fan is already rotating.

I have not tested this option, but if the opportunity arises, I will install it on my car.

To enable control pins 25 and 33, it may be necessary to reprogram the ECU. About preparing the ECU

We all know that when almost any mechanism operates, a certain amount of heat is generated. In everyday life, a similar phenomenon can most often be observed when the computer is running, and if it is not cooled in any way, the internal boards along with the contacts will simply melt. To prevent this from happening, the computer design includes a special fan designed to cool heated parts. In the automotive world, the main source of heat for a vehicle is its engine, so the need for its cooling arose almost simultaneously with the creation of this power unit.

Initially, the process of evolution of vehicle cooling systems followed two paths, which is why two types of cooling systems are installed on manufactured vehicles: air and liquid (hybrid). Since in both systems the final carrier, designed to dissipate the heat removed from the engine, is air, their design uses one common element - a fan. This device ensures constant and uniform heat removal into the atmosphere, thereby cooling the internal structural elements of a car engine.

1. Design and purpose of the engine cooling fan

The fan is located in the center of a certain casing, together with which it is installed on. The fan casing forms the air flow and does not allow it to dissipate, which is why this element can be considered one of the main components of the cooling system design. During its operation, the radiator exhibits some resistance to air flow, and if a fan is simply directed at it, then a certain part of the air will be reflected and bypass the device, as a result of which there will be no effective cooling.

As we have already said, a running engine is a powerful heat emitter, and To avoid overheating of the unit itself, this heat must be removed. The solution to this problem relies on various cooling systems.

For example, in a liquid engine cooling system, water or antifreeze is used as the main working element. The fluid circulates in the cylinder block and in the cylinder head, where it takes heat from the engine, thereby heating itself. Naturally, in order to successfully perform its duties, the coolant must release the heat it receives in order to perform the same function again. This is where the radiator comes into play.

The location of the radiator of the cooling system of a car engine allows it to “catch” flows of incoming air when the car is moving, which significantly accelerates heat transfer, which means the liquid cools faster. However, a car cannot be in motion all the time, therefore, in traffic jams or during long periods of parking, when the vehicle does not move, but its engine continues to work, the heat from the radiator is removed much worse, which often causes overheating of the engine with all the ensuing consequences. This result can also be obtained due to the vehicle moving at low speeds, especially on a hot summer day.

The fan located in front of the radiator prevents such situations and provides the engine with the necessary cooling. It turns on when the car is idle for a long time with the engine running, when the temperature in the cooling system becomes critical. The fan disperses the heat by passing the necessary air flow through the radiator, thereby dissipating the heat into the atmosphere.

Despite the importance of such a device, it has a fairly simple design and usually consists of three main elements: impellers(usually has four blades, but there may be more), casing And fan drive.

The fan drive, which ensures its rotation, can be of three types (on one machine, of course, only one of them is installed): mechanical, hydromechanical or electric.

The simplest option is a mechanical fan drive, in which rotation is transmitted via a belt drive. But in this case, the fan always rotates when the engine is running, which in some situations (for example, when starting a cold engine) causes extremely negative consequences. Therefore, this cooling method is no longer used on cars produced today.

A hydromechanical drive is considered more advanced, which uses a hydraulic or viscous coupling for operation. In the hydraulic version of this element, torque is transmitted or disconnected from the crankshaft by changing the amount of lubricating fluid. In a viscous coupling, silicone liquid is used for this purpose, and its viscosity depends on temperature indicators, the change of which gives the command to turn the fan drive on or off. To date, both species have not found widespread distribution, which is why they can be seen infrequently.

The most advanced, and at the same time, relatively simple type of fan drive is an electric drive, which sets the fan in motion using a simple electric motor connected to the vehicle's electrical system. Thanks to an electromechanical (used on older car models) and electronic (used on new) control system, a fan equipped with an electric drive can turn on and off when the temperature of the coolant changes. It can also rotate at different speeds under different operating modes of the vehicle’s power unit.

Nowadays, fans equipped with an electric drive type are most widely used, and this state of affairs is unlikely to change in the near future.

2. Installation and connection of the fan

Considering that cars are equipped with fans in normal mode, re-installation may only be necessary during repair work, that is, after replacing broken parts of an old part or when installing a new device. In addition, some car enthusiasts install an additional fan, which, in their opinion, can help better solve the problem of engine cooling.

Let's consider the option of installing an electrically driven fan in a situation where a part is completely replaced. So, in order to install a new device, you will first have to dismantle the old one. To do this, take a suitable socket wrench and slightly loosen the electric fan mounting bolts from below. Then, using the same key, unscrew the bolts securing the radiator tube that connects it to the air conditioning system (if, of course, such is provided for by the design of the car) and move it to the side.

Next, unscrew the upper and lower (already loosened) bolts securing the old fan, tilt it back a little and remove the part from the engine compartment. Now you need to disconnect the wiring harness from the fan casing. To do this, simply remove the wire harness from the clips located on the casing. While holding the impeller from rotating (you can use any convenient method), unscrew the nut securing it to the electric motor with a socket wrench, then, freeing it from the connection with the casing, simply remove it.

Installation of the new part is carried out in the reverse order, and most often the electric fan is replaced assembled with a new casing. Note! When installing the impeller on the axis of the electric motor, you need to align the groove located on the axis of the electric motor with the protrusion located on the hub of the impeller.

The fan can be connected in several ways: for example, through the ignition switch or through the coolant temperature sensor. In these cases, it should turn on when the ignition is turned on and when the antifreeze temperature is above 90 ° C, and the shutdown occurs either due to a decrease in the temperature of the specified fluid or when the ignition is turned off. Also, in parallel with the temperature sensor, some car owners recommend installing an additional switch (toggle switch), with which you can activate the fan at the driver’s request. If the temperature sensor breaks down, such an addition will help you get to the repair site without any problems, and in hot weather it will provide the opportunity to cool the engine in conditions of forced downtime with the engine running.

3. Refinement of the fan motor switching circuit

Many responsible car enthusiasts can spend hours in the garage, trying not only to fix existing problems, but also to prevent the occurrence of new problems through various improvements and modifications. The main goal of refining the electric fan switching circuit is to be able to force the fan to turn on and then operate stable, regardless of the position of the key or the temperature of the cooling liquid.

There are several ways to complete this task. Let's give an example of some of them. The first method is the most ideologically correct and least expensive. In this case, to force the engine cooling fan to turn on, it is enough to short-circuit one of the contacts of the black box to the housing, and when the radiator fan is activated, a “plus” should appear on the other contact of the black box.

The switch can be placed in any convenient place, for example, instead of the headlight washers or heated front seat switches.

The second method is more labor-intensive and expensive, but at the same time much more beautiful and elegant than the first. To implement it, at the initial stage it will be necessary to remove the instrument cluster cover, and a new fan switch relay, which has a special bracket for mounting the device, can be placed in the passenger compartment or in the engine compartment, but in the cabin it will probably be a little more convenient. Running wires into the interior is not a problem, and you can use the rubber plug for the headlight range control to complete the task. The "CHECK ENGINE" control lamp of the gearbox is perfect for the role of a light indicator for turning on the fan., and a diode soldered between them will help protect the contacts of the switching sensor from electromotive force (EMF).

To ensure that the circuits of the electric motor and the windings of its relay are protected by a fuse, a jumper is installed in the black box between the contacts, the material for which can be, for example, two male terminals and a piece of thick copper wire. Upon completion of work, all contacts should be treated with special lubricant.

In addition, when performing such modifications, it would be useful to clean and lubricate the fan motor, and if you also replace the standard impeller with four blades with a part with eight blades, then the air flow passing through the radiator will increase significantly, which means the quality of cooling should improve.

We briefly described only two options for refining the circuit for switching on an electric radiator fan, but this is far from a final figure, because everything depends on the imagination of the car owner and the capabilities of his vehicle.

Many owners of the domestic "ten" complain that their VAZ 2110 cooling fan does not work. The problem is quite common, but to fix it it is not at all necessary to resort to the help of specialists, or to pay a lot of money to car service technicians for finding and eliminating the cause of the problem.

All this can be done with your own hands. Today we will tell you exactly how this is done.

Design

The cooling system includes many components. Among those that interest us today, which can cause problems with the radiator fan, we note:

Electric fan. This unit starts working when the coolant temperature reaches 100-105 degrees Celsius;
Fan switch sensor. It is configured to operate precisely within the specified temperature range. The sensor is located on the inlet pipe of the cylinder block (labeling from the sensor factory is LS0112);
Fuse marked F7. It is located in the mounting block;
Fan relay. You will find this unit already in the cabin, under the right panel of the front console.

If the radiator fan does not work on your VAZ 2110, the cause of the malfunction should be looked for in the above-mentioned system elements. Although there may be one situation in which the electrical circuit has nothing to do with the fault.

Safety valve

Knowing physics, you will agree that at normal atmospheric pressure, the water that is part of antifreeze boils at a temperature of 100 degrees Celsius.

If the VAZ 2110 cooling fan fuse, that is, the valve located on the expansion tank cap, turns out to be faulty, and there is atmospheric pressure inside it, the cooling liquid will boil, but the fan will not be able to start working even with a working electrical circuit. This is because the fan switching sensor on the injection VAZ 2110 has a switching temperature of more than 100 degrees Celsius.

To resolve this issue, you should Replace the expansion tank cap. The new element must maintain the pressure inside the system above atmospheric pressure, which will allow the laws of physics to work, the boiling temperature to rise to 105 degrees Celsius and thereby turn on the blades of the unit.

Electrical circuit malfunctions

If everything is fine with the tank cap and there are no problems with pressure, then the causes of the radiator cooling malfunction should be sought in its electrical circuit.

The search begins with checking the functionality of the fuse marked F7. To do this, you have to get to the mounting block. Check the quality of the contacts and the presence of traces of oxidation. If everything is good here, we move on. If the contacts are broken, simply clean them, or simply change the fuse. This is a small financial cost.
The next place to check will be the VAZ 2110 fan switch. You don't have to go to a specialized service station to check the sensor's performance. This is done in a garage:
1. Warm up your car's engine to above 100 degrees Celsius;
2. Turn off the engine, then start the engine again;
3. Lift the hood and remove the terminal from the VAZ 2110 fan sensor;
4. If after removing the element the fan begins to spin, then the unit is working properly, but there are problems with the sensor;
5. When on a VAZ 2110 the cooling system fan does not turn on after disconnecting the terminal, the situation is the opposite - the fan does not work, but the sensor is in good condition.
Electric motor. It is possible that the radiator fan stopped working precisely because of a faulty electric motor. If all previous manipulations did not produce results, you will have to remove the electric motor. It may have several characteristic failures:
1. The commutator brushes are worn out;
2. The commutator brushes are stuck;
3. A short circuit has occurred in the armature winding (this can be determined by the characteristic unpleasant odor).
Relay. Maybe the button to turn on the cooling radiator fan on your VAZ 2110 has simply failed. In such a situation:
1. The trim on the right side of the console inside the cabin is removed by unscrewing two screws;
2. There are three relays under the panel;
3. The relay we are looking for is usually located on the edge of the row in relation to the front of the car;
4. To play it safe, arm yourself with the instruction manual and check the wiring that goes to our turn-on relay;
5. To resolve the problem, install a new, functioning and good quality relay.

Constantly running fan

In some situations, the cooling fan may run continuously, regardless of whether the engine is cold or hot. In this case, there may be various reasons, corresponding methods for checking the malfunction, as well as ways to solve the breakdown.

Causes	Diagnostics	How to fix the problem
Open circuit in the coolant temperature sensor or its circuits	The “Check engine” lamp is on. The sensor and circuits need to be checked with an ohmmeter	Replace sensor
The electric fan relay contacts do not open	Check with multimeter	Replace relay
The injection system control unit or its circuit (ECU) is faulty	Check the unit at a specialized car service center	Replace the ECU firmware or the unit itself
(Carburetor) Radiator thermal switch contacts do not open	Disconnect the terminals from the thermal switch terminals. After this, the electric fan will stop working.	Replace thermal switch

Alas, sometimes even after such thorough and detailed checks, the cooling system fan on the VAZ 2110 still does not turn on. In this case, the car owner has no choice but to contact a service station.

Proven and reliable car services will be able to conduct full computer diagnostics of the cooling system and determine the reasons for the cooling fan not working. The problem may be much larger than a blown fuse.

Don't be afraid to turn to specialists, even if you consider yourself an experienced auto mechanic who has always solved your car's problems on your own. Modern equipment, a professional approach, computerization of car services - all this allows you to quickly determine the causes of malfunctions, which, according to your old-fashioned method, would have taken several days. Auto repair shops also have their advantages.