Mazda 

Wiring diagram for the VAZ 2106 lock. Instructions for replacing the ignition switch. Removing the old ignition switch

Let's start with the fact that the ignition switch includes mechanical and electrical parts. The first is made in the body of the device, and the second part is made separately from the terminal block. In use, failures are associated equally with both parts of the ignition switch, with the terminal block accounting for a slightly higher percentage of failures.

Please note that any work on the electrical part must be carried out provided that the negative terminal is removed. This is especially important if you need to check the work of the consumer. Let's take a closer look at mechanical and electrical failures.

Mechanical part

Often, mechanical failure of the ignition switch is provoked by:

  • tight turning of the ignition key;
  • jamming in one of the positions. As a rule, such a problem leads to a broken ignition key, which, in turn, requires additional expenses for purchasing a new part.

Basically, these problems arise due to poor assembly of the ignition switch from unscrupulous manufacturers. So that the product does not have to be changed frequently, you need to install a reliable and durable part.

Electrical part


Even if the mechanical part of the ignition switch is fully operational, the terminal block still often fails. You can always replace it, since such a spare part is sold in any car store.

The terminal part often burns out itself or its contacts, which connect certain power supply circuits, burn out. It also happens that the central plastic insert melts, which opens and closes some contacts at different positions of the ignition key. This overheating is provoked by holding the key in the “starter” position for a long time, when the driver cannot start the engine of his vehicle for a long time.

In such cases, it is necessary to purchase a new terminal block, not an ignition switch.

It is very important that the connection remains unchanged. If you are replacing for the first time, you need to look at the bottom of the ignition switch and there draw the colors of the wire and the terminals to which they are connected. Each of them on the block has its own number, so it is very convenient to write down the wire color and terminal number so as not to confuse anything.

The car engine is started using the ignition switch (hereinafter referred to as the ignition switch). But this device periodically wears out and needs to be replaced. Knowledge of the VAZ 2106 connection diagram will help you change the mechanism without the services of specialists.

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The structure and principle of operation of the ignition switch VAZ 2106

Schematic structure of a classic ZZ

The electric model of the new ignition switch on the classic includes the following devices:

  1. Locking console, presented in the form of a rod. This device in the car's locking system is designed to lock the steering wheel when the key is not in the lock hole.
  2. Device body. It is a protective component that is designed to cover all components of the structure.
  3. Shaft. Used to rotate the disk with system contacts and bushing. Designed to create contact between the disc and the bushing.
  4. Contact disk. One of the two main parts of the contact assembly. There are plates on it through which current flows when the engine is started by turning the key in the lock.
  5. Sleeve. The main element of the larva.
  6. A block with electrical wires connected in a specific order. The contact group of the block is connected to the ignition system of the car. It is intended to transfer the formed contact to the distributor via a coil.
  7. Contact protrusion. It is, in fact, a conductor for transmitting current from the device to the starter.

Many electrical circuits are connected directly to the mechanism of the device. They come from the battery and are connected to all electrical appliances of the VAZ 2106. When the key is turned in the lock, the electrical wiring contacts are closed from the negative terminal of the battery to the coil. As a result of this, the voltage passes through the cables to the 3Z, and through its contact group it enters the induction coil. The current is then applied back to the positive terminal of the battery.

When current passes through the coil, it produces the high voltage required to produce a spark at the spark plugs. Voltage is transmitted via high-voltage cables. Accordingly, the key closes the contact elements of the electrical circuit, helping to start the power unit of the machine.

How to remove the ignition switch?

If you need to change the product, you must dismantle it, as well as install and connect the wiring terminals. Detailed instructions are presented in this section.

User Sandro spoke about the features of removing and replacing the seal on classic VAZ models.

What will you need?

To troubleshoot and resolve problems with the device, you will need the following:

  • screwdriver with slotted tip;
  • an awl or a thin long nail, its cross-section should be no more than 2 mm, and the head should be wide;
  • a multimeter or a positive screwdriver will be needed to check the electrical circuit.

Algorithm of actions

Changing the lock must begin with the dismantling procedure:

  1. Before performing the task, a procedure is performed to turn off the power in the machine’s network. In the engine compartment, the negative terminal is disconnected from the battery. This is done to prevent contacts on electrical circuits from closing, otherwise it can cause damage to the machine’s electrical appliances.
  2. If you replace the device yourself, you need to install the key in the technological hole of the product and turn it 90 degrees. This is required so that the lock is set to position 0. This action is performed to enter the pin into the secret component of the lock, which is designed to block the steering wheel from turning. Otherwise, dismantling will not be possible.
  3. The protective casing located around the steering column is dismantled. To remove it, the car owner unscrews five bolts in turn, which secure the upper part of the protective plastic to the lower one.
  4. Carefully dismantle the plastic casing. First the upper part is removed, then the lower part.
  5. Now you need to unscrew the bolts securing the lock to the car. They are located under the plastic lining, at the bottom of the device. There are two bolts, one of them is located on the right, the second on the left side.
  6. After this, the electrical circuits are disconnected from the contact group of the device.
  7. When the wires are disconnected, pay attention to the bracket, which is installed on the left side of the product. There is a flat slot on it; you need to insert an awl or a prepared nail there. The tool must be pressed in forcefully for the latch to work.
  8. Then the product is removed from the bracket; to do this, use a flat-blade screwdriver. The removal procedure is shown in detail in the photo.

How to install the ignition switch?

When installing the device, it is important to correctly connect and connect all contact components of the product. Before connection, a lock is installed.

What will you need?

To connect and connect all components of the device, you will need the same tool that was used to disconnect. The procedure will be performed almost in reverse order.

Pinout (diagram) of the ignition switch VAZ 2106

To correctly perform lock 2106, you need to understand the pinout of the device:

  1. Position 0 - contact elements numbered 30 and 30/1. The components are designed to shut down the power system. When the key is in this position, the system activates emergency operation.
  2. Mode I - contact components 30/1-15, as well as 30-INT. They are used to activate lighting devices, both external and internal, as well as a number of other devices. This refers to the windshield wiper system, washer motor, generator unit, heater fan, control panel devices, turning lights, ignition system, sound devices.
  3. Regulation II. These are contact elements 30/1-15, 30-INT, and also 30-50. When the key is turned to this position, all devices turned on in mode I remain activated. The exceptions are the generator set, control panel and ignition system. The starter circuit is activated, which leads to the start of the power plant.
  4. Regulation III. This is a standby mode and only activates contact components 30-INT and 30/1. The starter circuit is disconnected. Only the lighting system, windshield wipers, washer motor and cooling unit remain switched on.

Separately, we should talk about the classification by color:

  • 30 — pink contact;
  • INT - black contact, intended for connecting side lights and external lighting;
  • 30/1 — brown contact;
  • 50 - red contact, used to start the starter device;
  • 15 - contact element is blue, has a black stripe.

The Auto Repair and Maintenance channel talked about the nuances of connecting the ignition switch and presented a visual diagram of the product.

Step by step steps

Device installation algorithm:

  1. The key is inserted into the hole in the lock and turned to mode 0.
  2. The latch is pressed, and then the device is mounted in the bracket.
  3. The next step will be connecting the electrical circuits. If the car is equipped with a chip, then the connection procedure will not cause difficulties. But in its absence, the connection of electrical circuits will be carried out one by one. To do this, the terminal connector is mounted so that one of the double-type contacts is installed on the right and located vertically. The black cable is connected to the upper component group.
  4. Then the work is carried out in the clockwise direction of movement. After connecting the black contact, the pink circuit is connected, then the blue, brown and red. On the back of the connector, next to the terminals, there are numbers that correspond to a specific electrical circuit. The lower part should remain intact.
  5. When the contact elements are connected, the plastic casing is installed on the column. The upper and lower plastic components are fixed to each other using bolts.

Functionality check

Diagnosis of the correctness of the work performed is carried out as follows:

  1. Terminals are connected to the battery.
  2. The key is inserted into the 3Z in mode 0. If all contact components are connected correctly, then no car system will be activated.
  3. Then the key is set to mode I. In this position, power is supplied to the control panel, generator set, optics and sensors. The windshield washer system and wipers, warning lights and power windows, if installed in the car, are also turned on. It is necessary to check the operation of each node.
  4. At the next diagnostic stage, the key is moved to position II. Electricity is supplied to all the systems described above, but the starter device is also activated.

If the ignition switch on a VAZ 2106 is connected correctly, the locking rod of the locking mechanism will extend and disengage when the key is moved from 0 to I.

Video “Features of connecting 3Z contacts”

The Avtoclub_22 channel talked about the nuances of connecting contact elements on the classic “six” lock.

A lot of problems can arise with the ignition switch on the “six”. This includes oxidation of wires, jamming of larvae and much more. To deal with this, you need to know how to remove and connect the VAZ-2106 ignition switch. In principle, there is nothing complicated here, now you will see for yourself.

Connection

Remove the ignition switch.

Using a thin screwdriver, remove the retaining ring.

We remove the contact part from the switch body.

We assemble and install the switch in the reverse order, taking into account that...

...the grooves in the switch body and the protrusions of the contact part have different widths, so the contact part is installed in the switch in only one position.

To avoid guessing during assembly, be guided by pins “15” and “30”, which should be opposite the locking rod of the lock.

Switching the ignition switch terminals

Key position

Contacts under

Voltage

Switched circuits

0 (Disabled)

I (Ignition)

Outdoor Lighting.

Windshield and headlight cleaners and washers

Generator excitation winding.

Ignition system.

Carburetor pneumatic valve control system.

Direction indicators.

Control devices.

Heater.

Heated rear window.

Reversing light

II (Starter)

See position I

See position I

III (Parking)

See position I

Scheme

Castle structure

Locking rod
Frame
Roller
Contact disk
Contact sleeve
Block
Protrusion of the contact part.

The lock mechanism is connected to many wires. They continue from the battery, connecting all the electrical devices of the car into a single chain. When you turn the ignition key, the electrical circuit is closed from the “-” terminal of the battery to the ignition coil.

As a result, the current passes through the wires to the ignition switch, through its contacts it is directed to the induction coil, after which it returns back to the “+” terminal. As electricity passes through the coil, it generates high voltage, which it transmits to the spark plug. Therefore, the key closes the contacts of the ignition circuit, thereby starting the car engine.

The ignition switch, like all spare parts, requires repair or replacement over time. And any car enthusiast will be able to cope with this, having a minimum amount of necessary knowledge.

How to remove

On all classic VAZ cars, the ignition switch is located below, on the left of the steering column. To replace you need:

Disconnect battery

Remove the plastic casing by first unscrewing the screws that secure it.

Then unscrew the two screws securing the ignition switch to the bracket.

We insert the key and set it to position 0 to disable the anti-theft device.

Insert the awl into the hole in the bracket and press the latch. Then we take out the lock itself.

How to change

Removing the ignition switch on a VAZ-2106 begins with disassembling the steering column casing. We unscrew the five bolts and remove its halves. Before you begin disassembling the electrical part of the lock, it is very useful to disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal or unscrewing the switch bolt. After this, remove the spring retaining ring from the back of the lock body and remove the contact group. We move it to the side so that it does not interfere, and we begin to remove the lock itself.

It is attached to the steering shaft bracket with two bolts, after unscrewing which nothing happens. It is useless to try to remove the lock from its socket if you do not know about the special stopper. It is located on the lock body under the bracket. We press this stopper into the lock with a thin screwdriver through a small hole in the bracket. Further, according to all the instructions, the lock should be pulled out freely, but this does not work.

An obstacle that is not described anywhere is the anti-theft rod. Although it is in a “disconnected” state, it still clings to the steering shaft. To remove the lock, you have to manipulate the key. In different positions of the lock cylinder, the anti-theft device also moves and is recessed as much as possible when the key is in the “Starter” position. After a few minutes the lock can be pulled out of the bracket.

Here is the time to write that assembly of the unit should be carried out in the reverse order of removal. And in general, this will be true. First you need to insert the new lock into the bracket, recessing the latch and holding the key in the starter position, tighten the fastening bolts, then connect the wires. Particular attention must be paid to this, because an incorrectly connected contact group can damage the starter or ignition system. We reconnect the wires from the old group to the new one one at a time, checking the numbers on the contacts. After this, we assemble the steering column casing.

Installation

To carry out repair work to replace the ignition switch of a VAZ 2106, we will need: a screwdriver, a tester and a thin awl. Once you have everything you need, you can begin the repair.

On the car, the ignition switch is located on the driver's side, mounted on the left side of the steering wheel on the steering gear bracket, under the instrument panel.

First of all, you need to get rid of the decorative casing of the steering shaft, unscrew the fastening screws and remove it. We performed similar actions when replacing the steering shaft.

After removing the decorative casing, unscrew the two screws securing the ignition switch to the body, then insert the key into the lock and turn on the “0” position, which turns off the anti-theft device. Through the hole in the bracket, press the lock lock with a thin awl and remove the ignition switch from the mounting socket.

At this point, the repair work on removing the ignition switch of the VAZ 2106 is completed.

On VAZ 2108 and higher models, a package with wires is connected to the lock, that is, nothing needs to be marked and the possibility of mixing up the wires when installing a new switch is completely eliminated. Well, on VAZ 2107 and lower models, this is not the case, each wire is connected separately, so when removing each wire, it must be marked so as not to be confused during further installation.

To replace the contact group of the ignition switch, you need to use a thin screwdriver or an awl to pry the retaining ring from the edge and remove the contact part. When installing a new contact part, orient it so that terminals “15” and “30” are on the side of the locking rod.

At this point, the repair work is completed, install the new ignition switch in the reverse order of removal, connect the wires, transferring the markings from the old switch to the new one.

Pinout

Shown here is the pinout of the VAZ 2106 ignition switch, which will help you correctly use the functionality of this element of the vehicle’s power system.

Numbering of position ZZ Name of contacts
products		 Power system circuits involved
“0” – off. 30 and 30/1 Ignition system circuits are engaged in emergency mode
“I” – ignition

Stern and front light of the optical system, windshield wiper and washer element, heating component of the cooling system

BSZ (on-board ignition system), initiation of the generator unit, instrument sensors of the control panel, sound and light signals of the turn signals
“II” – starter

Stern and front light optical system, windshield wiper and washer element, heating component of the vehicle cooling system

Starter chain
“III” – parking position Stern and front light of the optical system, windshield wiper and washer element, heating component of the cooling system

Just in case, the pinout on the block is as follows: 15 - blue with black (double) 30/1 - brown 50 - red 30 - pink INT - black (double)

Malfunctions

Often, after long-term use, unstable operation of the ignition switch is explained by burning of the contacts or weakening of the contact posts in the support plate. In such a situation, you can try to clean the contacts using a regular needle file (preferably a diamond one), followed by rinsing with alcohol or gasoline. It is not recommended to use sandpaper, since its grains are easily embedded in the soft material of the plates and such cleaning will not be of any use.

As for the “walking” racks, they can be secured using pieces of plastic with final fastening using epoxy glue. If the racks are slightly deformed (this defect is typical for early models), then they are given their original shape using small pliers.

The next group of malfunctions in VAZ ignition switches is associated with the wear of the plastic roller cams. In this case, you can restore the original shape of the working protrusions using a regular soldering iron, applying a layer of polystyrene to the required places. The main thing is that the surfacing performed is homogeneous and free of bubbles and cavities. The final profile is created using a file.

By the way, before “sinning” on the lock as such, it would be useful to check the condition of the contacts at the places where the wires are connected, and those going not only to the lock switch, but also to the breaker and coil - quite often the solution to the problem is hidden right here.

After completing work on restoring the ignition switch, you should check how efficient the contact group has become. For this purpose, you should, by turning the roller manually, simultaneously, using an ohmmeter, measure the reliability of the contact connections in all positions. For clarity, you can use a simple device in the form of a light bulb and a battery; in this case, the presence of contact is confirmed by the steady glow of the light bulb.

It must be said that the reliability of ignition switches on later products of the VAZ concern (VAZ 2110, VAZ 2112, etc.) is also far from perfect; moreover, they are usually not repairable and had to be replaced immediately. However, in any case, before taking such a step, you should first check whether the lock really failed. The easiest way to carry out a similar procedure is to measure the resistance on the contact block of the lock, placing the key alternately in all three working positions. For a working lock, these resistances are practically zero.

If desired, you can also check the serviceability of the backlight, for which you need to apply voltage from a 12V source to pins 2 and 6 of the on-board harness block. If the lamp does not light up, then it is faulty or there is an open circuit in its power supply.

Unit for car ignition system

Sometimes when operating a domestic VAZ car, the following situation arises: you get into the car, insert the key into the ignition, turn the key to position I, but the indicator lights on the dashboard do not light up. If you don't notice this and try to start the engine, the starter doesn't turn or even click. Experienced drivers in such cases immediately check the serviceability of the lock.

The VAZ classic ignition switch consists of two parts: a mechanical (secret) into which the key is inserted, and a contact group to which the wires are connected. The mechanical part is inseparable from the body, and if it fails, the lock must be replaced. The contact group is removable; it is inserted into the back of the device and secured with a spring ring. Due to the simplicity of the design, the ignition switch of a VAZ 2106 car breaks down extremely rarely, almost as rarely as the engine or gearbox.

There is only one malfunction that may require replacing the VAZ classic ignition switch assembly - a breakdown in the secret part mechanism. You can perform the operation of replacing the device yourself, even in an open field, in 10 minutes.

Removing a faulty device

To remove the ignition switch of a VAZ 2106, the following tools are required:

  • positive screwdriver;
  • slotted screwdriver;
  • awl.

Replacing the ignition unit

If you do not have an awl, to dismantle the device, you can use a long thin nail with a cross section of 1.5-2 mm with a wide head or a screwdriver to unscrew small screws from the body of mobile phones.

Before carrying out the main procedure, it is necessary to remove the negative terminal from the battery. Despite the fact that a 12-volt current is practically harmless to the health of an adult, when removing the device, you can accidentally short-circuit the wires, which, in turn, can lead to the failure of important electrical equipment of the car.

Step-by-step instruction:

  1. To begin, insert the key into the ignition switch and turn it 90 degrees to the “0” position. This is necessary so that the pin holding the steering shaft from turning fits slightly into the secret part and does not interfere with dismantling.
  2. Next, you need to remove the plastic steering column cover. To do this, sequentially unscrew the 5 screws connecting the lower and upper parts of the casing.
  3. Then carefully lift the upper part of the steering column housing and pull it up. After this, remove both parts of the casing to the side.
  4. Next, find and unscrew the screws securing the device itself. There are two of them, they are located at the bottom of the switch, on the right and left.
  5. Then disconnect the wires from the ignition switch contacts.
  6. Next, find a flat slot on the bracket to the left of the device, insert an awl there and forcefully press the latch with it.
  7. After this, you can remove the device from the bracket by prying it with a slotted screwdriver.

If, despite all the efforts made, the switch “refuses” to come out of the bracket, it means that the latch is not pressed all the way. You need to press the latch with an awl, and then move the key slightly left and right without turning it. The latch will compress completely, and all that remains is to pull out the switch.

On a VAZ 2106 car, the ignition switch is the main control element of the on-board electrical equipment system. Only if the lock is in full technical condition does the correct operation of the ignition system be ensured.

Unfortunately, the ignition switch of the VAZ 2106 cannot boast of long-term uninterrupted operation and quite often motorists are faced with the fact that it fails.

Therefore, they have to figure out what the VAZ 2106 ignition switch is, wiring diagram, remove it, repair what is broken, and then mount it back, at the same time remembering the wiring diagram for all the wires.

Our article will help you understand the issues of electronic ignition of the VAZ 2106. After reading it, many will be able to independently repair the lock on the VAZ 2106 and will no longer experience problems with its dismantling and installation. It will also be useful for those who do not remember the connection diagram for each cable on the device.

basic information

The main elements of the ignition switches on the VAZ 2106 are the ignition switch system and the starter control circuit. Voltage is supplied to a given circuit at a certain key position.

The design of electronic ignition on a VAZ consists of two elements:

  • The electrical part consists of a wire terminal that is secured at the bottom of the lock with a locking clip. Thanks to this element, the correct distribution of voltage to the vehicle’s on-board electronics occurs.

The mechanical part is installed directly in the ignition switch itself. She is responsible in the car for locking the steering wheel, turning on the electronics and starting the starter.

It is worth noting that on a VAZ 2106 car, breakdowns can equally be associated with both the mechanical elements of the part and the electronics.

During the use of a vehicle, contactless ignition malfunctions vary, so you need to understand what they may be associated with and know the wiring diagram.

What kind of damage can occur in the ignition switch?

As mentioned above, practice shows that breakdowns are common to both parts of the lock and often require replacement of one or the other half. Sometimes VAZ 2106 ignition coils can fail

When servicing these elements, you need to know what a non-contact ignition circuit is, and after that you need to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, except if you check the presence of voltage at consumers.

  1. Mechanical failure

The most common malfunction of the mechanical part of the locking system is a tight turn of the key; if the connection problem is not solved in time, the key will jam in the lock or break. As a result, you will have to change the entire lock, and such a replacement will require large expenses.

Factory ignition switches from VAZ 2106 cars very rarely break down in this way; such a malfunction is typical for Chinese spare parts, because the cost of the analogue is an order of magnitude lower. Analogs cannot be repaired, unlike spare parts from the LADA automobile plant.

If a car enthusiast encounters a similar problem, then in the future, as a rule, he already purchases an original spare part from AvtoVAZ, no longer trusting Chinese manufacturers of parts.

  1. Electronic failures

Often, malfunctions of the VAZ 2106 ignition switch are associated with the electronic part of the device and they also require replacement. In this case, it is important to remember that the connection diagram plays a huge role, and you should not mix up the wires.

The main causes of ignition terminal malfunction:

  • Oxidation of contacts.
  • Partial or complete combustion of wires.

Melting of the plastic part of the terminal.

These reasons are caused by poor terminal contact on the VAZ 2106, or by the fact that the starter starts for a long time.

In this case, it is only necessary to change the electronic unit, which can be purchased separately at auto parts stores.

When replacing, you need to remember or sketch the colors of each cable connected to the lock so that the diagram is at hand, or simply take a photo of the terminal with your phone. Each contact has a specific number. So, the connection can be made according to the diagram indicated on the manufacturer’s packaging box. If there is no diagram or it is lost, then read on.

Connection diagram

The electronic block of the lock has the following contacts:

15 - a double blue wire with a black stripe is connected to the contact.

30 - pink wire. Responsible for turning on the starter.

30/1 - brown wire.

50 - purple or red. The color depends on the year of manufacture of the car. Additional circuit for starting the starter.

INT - black wire with two contacts, is responsible for supplying voltage from the positive terminal to the ignition switch.

The ignition circuit is quite simple, and many people remember the pinout of the wires the first time.

Replacing the ignition switch

This procedure can be performed independently if you have at least basic skills in working with tools, and be sure to follow. The ignition switch on a VAZ 2106 car is not too complicated, and the connection diagram for all the wires is simple and clear. Therefore, independent replacement, without contacting a service center, is carried out by many car enthusiasts.

For repair, disconnection and connection you will need:

  • positive screwdriver;
  • slotted screwdriver;
  • thin awl or small nail.

Before starting repairs, be sure to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery!

Many people know that a voltage of 12V is not dangerous for humans and are not afraid of getting an electric shock. At the same time, they forget that electricity can affect not only the hand, but also car parts. If, when trying to remove the lock, the wires are accidentally shorted, this may lead to failure of some electronic components of the machine.

To replace, you need to take a large Phillips and a small socket screwdriver. First of all, the plastic steering wheel cover is dismantled. First, the lower bar is removed, then the upper one. Once the casing is removed, all elements of the lock become accessible and can be removed.

The second step is to disconnect the wires from the mechanical half of the device, first remembering the position of the terminals, because the pinout of the wires is important in this case. This was discussed above.

After unscrewing the bolts securing the lock itself with a small screwdriver, you need to turn the car key to the “zero” position. The device should now come out of the mount easily and without much effort.

The next step is to unhook all the wires that go to the ignition switch. For those who helped, the diagram was redrawn or photographed, while the rest can print out the memo from this article. This will help them connect the part without any problems.

Then we look for a small flat gap to the left of the part on the bracket and forcefully insert an awl into it to press the latch.

Now you can remove the ignition switch from the bracket by prying it with another screwdriver.

Installation and connection of a new lock occurs in the reverse order. The main thing is to connect all the contacts correctly, remembering the connection diagram, otherwise you can burn the wires.

Do not forget that the negative terminal of the battery must be disconnected during replacement.