Mazda 

High voltage modules. Do-it-yourself high-voltage power supply. from the car cigarette lighter

Many of us have at least once in our lives seen photographs of High-Voltage Generators on the Internet or in real life, or taken them ourselves. Many circuits presented on the Internet are quite powerful, their output voltage ranges from 50 to 100 Kilovolts. The power, like the voltage, is also quite high. But their nutrition is the main problem. The voltage source must be of a power suitable for the generator and must be able to deliver a large current for a long time.

There are 2 options for powering high-voltage generators:

1) battery,

2) mains power supply.

The first option allows you to run the device far from the outlet. However, as previously noted, the device will consume a lot of power and, therefore, the battery must provide this power (if you want the generator to work “at 100”). Batteries of such power are quite large and a device with such a battery cannot be called autonomous. If the power is supplied from a network source, then there is no need to talk about autonomy either, since the generator literally “cannot be taken away from the outlet.”

My device is quite autonomous, since it does not consume much from the built-in battery, but due to low consumption, the power is also not great - about 10-15W. But you can get an arc from a transformer, the voltage is about 1 Kilovolt. From the voltage multiplier to higher - 10-15 kV.

Closer to the design...

Since I did not plan this generator for serious purposes, I placed all its “insides” in a cardboard box (no matter how funny it may sound, it is true. I ask you not to judge my design strictly, since I am not an expert in high-voltage technology). My device has 2 Li-ion batteries with a capacity of 2200 mAh. They are charged using an 8-volt linear regulator: L7808. It is also located in the case. There are also two chargers: from the mains (12 V, 1250 mAh) and from the car’s cigarette lighter.

The high voltage generation circuit itself consists of several parts:

1) input voltage filter,

2) a master oscillator built on a multivibrator,

3) power transistors,

4) high-voltage step-up transformer (I would like to note that the core should not have a gap; the presence of a gap will lead to an increase in current consumption and, as a result, failure of power transistors).

You can also connect a “symmetrical” voltage multiplier or... a fluorescent lamp to the high-voltage output, then the high-voltage generator turns into a flashlight. Although in fact, this device was originally planned to be made as a flashlight. The converter circuit is made on a breadboard; if you wish, you can create a printed circuit board. The maximum consumption of the circuit is up to 2-3 Amperes, this should be taken into account when choosing switches. The cost of the device depends on where you got the components. I found most of the complete set in my drawer or in a box for storing radio components. I only had to buy a linear stabilizer L7808, IVLM1-1/7 (actually I inserted it here for fun, but bought it out of curiosity J), I also had to buy an electronic transformer for halogen lamps (I only took a transformer from it). The wire for winding the secondary (step-up, high-voltage) winding was taken from a long-burnt line transformer (TVS110PTs), and I advise you to do the same. So the wire in line transformers is high-voltage and there should be no problems with insulation breakdown. We seem to have sorted out the theory - now let's move on to practice...

Appearance…

Fig. 1 – view of the control panel:

1) performance indicators

2) indicator of the presence of charging voltage

3) input from 8 to 25 volts (for charging)

4) button to turn on the battery charge (turn on only when the charger is connected)

5) battery switch (upper position – main, lower – spare)

6) generator high pressure switch

7) high voltage output

There are 3 performance indicators on the front panel. There are so many of them here because the seven-segment indicator is my initial (the first letter of my name lights up on it: “A”J), the LEDs above the switch and switch were originally planned to be additional indicators of battery charge, but a problem arose with the indication circuit, and the holes in the body has already been made. I had to install LEDs, but as just indicators, so as not to spoil the appearance.

Fig. 2 – view of the voltmeter and indicator:

8) voltmeter - shows the voltage on the battery

9) indicator – IVLM1-1/7

10) fuse (against accidental activation)

I installed a vacuum-luminescent indicator out of curiosity, since this is my first indicator of this type.

Fig.3 – internal view:

11) body

12) batteries (12.1-main, 12.2-spare)

13) linear stabilizer 7808 (for charging batteries)

14) converter board

15) heat sink with field-effect transistor KP813A2

Here, I think there is nothing to explain.

Fig. 4 – chargers:

16) from 220 V network. (12 V, 1250 mA.)

17) from the car cigarette lighter

Fig.5 – loads for AVVG:

18)9 WFluorescent Lamp

19) “symmetrical” voltage multiplier

Fig.6 – schematic diagram:

USB1 – standard outputUSB

BAT1, 2 – Li- ion7.4 in. 2200 mAh (18650 X 2)

R1, 2, 3, 4 – 820 Ohm

R5 – 100 KOhm

R6, 7 – 8.2 Ohm

R8 – 150 Ohm

R9, 12 – 510 Ohm

R10, 11 – 1 KOhm

L1 – core from the inductor from an energy-saving lamp, 10 turns of 1.5 mm each.

C1 – 470 µF 16 V.

C2, 3 – 1000 µF 16 century.

C4, 5 – 47 nF 250 V.

C6 – 3.2 nF 1.25 Sq.

C7 – 300 pF 1.6 kV.

C8 – 470 pF 3 kV.

C9, 10 – 6.3 nF

C11, 12, 13, 14 – 2200 pF 5 kV.

D1 – red LED

D2 – AL307EM

D3 – ALS307VM

VD1, 2, 3, 4 – KTs106G

H.L.1 – ZLS338B1

H.L.2 – NE2

H.L.3 – IVLM1-1/7

H.L.4 – LDS 9W

IC1 – L7808

S.B.1 – button 1A

S.A.1 – switch 3A (ON- OFFwith neon lamp)

S.A.2 – switch 6A (ON- ON)

S.A.3 – switch 1A (ON- OFF)

PV1 –M2003-1

T1 – step-up transformer:

Explosive winding: 372 turns PEV-2 0.14mm. R=38.6ohm

Primary winding: 2 x 7 turns PEV-... 1mm. R=0.4ohm

VT1 – KT819VM

VT2 – KP813A2

VT3, 4 – KT817B

Total number of components: 53.

What CAN this circuit work without, in fact there are many without: IC1, R1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, C1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8,

Explanations for the diagram:

The minus is common, it goes from the USB input to the converter board. The positives from the batteries go to the switch, from it there is already one output to the switch (SA1), and from it to the converter. The plus also goes to the voltmeter (PV1), through a resistor to the indicator cathode and to the anodes of the LEDs (a separate resistor for each LED). Charging is carried out after a voltage of 8 to 25 volts is supplied to the USB input, and also after pressing the button (SB1), the LED (D1) lights up after the charging voltage is supplied (you can control the charging process using a PV1 voltmeter).

Switching between the main and spare batteries is carried out using a switch (SA1), then the power plus goes to the switch (SA2) (via switch SA3) of the generator, the neon lamp (HL2) is located inside the switch. Next, the power leads are supplied to a block of capacitors and a master oscillator built on a multivibrator (VT3, 4. C9, 10. R9, 10, 11, 12), the KT817B transistors can be replaced with any other analogs, from which pulses are sent to the base and gate of the transistors (VT1, VT2), transistors can use less or more powerful analogues. Field-effect and bipolar transistors are used here, this is done in order to reduce consumption. After the transformer, the high voltage is supplied to the groups of anode segments of the vacuum-luminescent indicator, and then to the high voltage output.

Consumption (like a flashlight): in 1 minute the circuit discharges the battery by 0.04 V (40 millivolts). If the generator runs for 25 minutes, it will therefore discharge by 1 volt (25*0.04).

The high-voltage ignition module is used for self-defense and the manufacture of modern equipment. Knowing the sequence of work, you can make such a device with your own hands. This article will tell you how to do this and where you can find finished products.

Description

The high voltage module is a block with 4 wires, 2 of which are required for connecting power. As you can see, nothing complicated.

If you need a high-voltage module, you can purchase it from an online store or make it yourself. The finished device runs on AA lithium batteries with 3.6 to 6 volts at the input. The output can produce a power of 400 volts.

The generator has 4 wires. To check the quality of your purchase, you can take a 3.7-volt lithium-ion battery module. According to the parameters, a spark should fly up to 2 cm between the electrodes.

Such work must be done especially carefully. Disconnect the wires of the high-voltage module and connect them to the battery. When power is applied, a sound effect in the form of a whistle is noted. A discharge will also occur, the impact length of which is 1.5-2 cm.

How it works

The operation of the high-voltage converter module can be demonstrated using a generator. To do this, you need power from a 12-volt UPS and a 25-watt lamp. When the wires are connected, it glows fully glowing.

Description of the manufacture of high-voltage generators

The ability to tinker helps out more than once in life. For example, good high-voltage generators are quite expensive. In addition, they are difficult to get. But you can successfully make a high-voltage module with your own hands. To do this, you will need a stepper motor that can work perfectly in generation mode.

They attach a handle directly to the stepper shaft, rotate it and charge the phone while on the go. You can make this charger yourself in a few minutes.

Improving Models

There are many similar inventions, but their power is not high enough. To charge a phone, you need at least 2 W at the output of such a motor for an old model of a mobile device and at least 5 W for a modern smartphone.

Where can I get a high-voltage module with good power? Let's try to do it ourselves. We will select a convenient rotation handle for the stepper, and connect all the wire leads according to the diagram. The resulting DC outputs will go to the wattmeter and to the load, which is selected for this engine and the speed according to the optimal parameters.

What kind of power can be developed on a large stepper motor at a speed of 120 per minute? Let's start the experiment. The wattmeter shows 0.8 W at a voltage of 6 volts and a current of 0.11-0.12 amperes. At faster rotations, the peak figure reaches 1 ampere, but this is at very fast speeds.

Therefore, such a device requires improvement. You need a converter that increases the speed by 3-4 times so that you can successfully charge your phone while traveling.

For this, a commutator motor is used. You can make a belt drive for this engine to increase its speed by 3 times. The result is an installation with a pulley diameter that is 3 times larger than that installed on the stepper motor. Now such a device will rotate 3 times faster, which will allow it to reach 2-2.2 W. In this case, the voltage is 17 volts, the current is 0.12-0.13 amperes. This power is already more significant. If the device is mounted on a table, turning the handle is quite simple.

The higher the rpm, the more useful power the generator can produce.

Making a stun gun: preparation

Electroshock devices can be very powerful. The law allows the use of devices up to 3 Watts, which are not capable of causing serious harm to health, but guarantee a fairly strong electric shock and burns.

The device diagram is as follows:

  • power supply;
  • boost converter;
  • high voltage voltage multiplier.

You can use a regular lithium-ion battery of compact size, or better yet, a lithium iron phosphate battery. It has a lower capacity for the same weight, and the nominal voltage is 3.2 volts versus 3.7 volts for the lithium-ion variant.

This device has many advantages:

  • With its own capacity of only 700 mA/hour, it is capable of delivering currents of 30-50 A.
  • Has a service life of 10-15 years.
  • Capable of operating at temperatures down to -30 degrees without loss of capacity and other negative consequences.
  • Environmentally friendly, safe, does not swell or explode.
  • Loses capacity much more slowly.
  • Not so sensitive to charger parameters, can be charged with high currents without overheating.

For the converter, you can use a ready-made model from China. Or make it yourself. The most important thing in such a device is the transformer. It can be taken from the standby source of a non-working computer power supply. It is desirable that it be of an elongated type, which will facilitate the winding process.

Assembling the device

The transformer must be disassembled, the core removed and heated with a blowtorch for 5-10 minutes. The structure of the glue will weaken, and it will be easier for the halves to separate.

There is a gap inside. Removing the halves in the core is replaced by the stage of winding all the factory windings, leaving only the surface of the bare frame.

Rules for performing winding movements

The high-voltage stun gun module requires that the primary type of transformer winding be wound. A wire length of 0.5 mm is folded in half. The optimal diameter is from 0.4 to 0.7 mm. You will need to wind at least 8 turns and bring the other end of the wires out.

We insulate the wound winding using several layers of fluoroplastic or transparent tape. A piece of stranded wire placed in thick insulation is soldered to a thin wire, the thickness of which is no more than 0.05 mm.

We insulate the places where soldering was done using heat shrink. We take out the wire and fix it with hot glue so as not to accidentally break it during the winding process.

We wind the primary winding, 100-120 turns, alternating it with several layers of insulation. By its principle, winding is simple: a row - from left to right, a second - from right to left, with insulation between them. We repeat this 10 to 12 times.

After the winding is completed, the wires are cut off, stranded high-voltage wires and heat shrink are soldered to them. Everything is fixed with several layers of transparent tape and the transformer is assembled.

If you don’t want to wind the turns for so long, you can purchase ready-made modules in Chinese online stores at a very affordable price or make a high-voltage module yourself.

Device test

The next part of the voltage multiplier is high-voltage diodes and capacitors, which can be taken from a computer power supply. Diodes are also needed of the high-voltage type. Their voltage should be from 4 kW. Such items can also be purchased in online stores.

The case can be a box from a flashlight or player, but it must be made of dielectric material: plastic, bakelite, fiberglass.

It is recommended to fill the multiplier with a high-voltage converter with epoxy resin, molten wax or hot melt adhesive. The latter can severely deform the case if it is not placed in a container with cold water.

Electrodes can be taken from a regular plug. The shocker is equipped with a safety switch to protect against accidental activation. To activate the device, remove it from the fuse. The indicator LED lights up, then press the button.

The high-voltage module - voltage converter successfully demonstrates performance in the stun gun. The charger is built on the basis of a microcircuit, where a voltage of 5 volts is supplied to the input of the module, and 3.6 volts at the output. This charging allows you to power the device from any USB port.

Using solder, you can make protective spark gaps that limit the arc length for the safe operation of a high-voltage converter. The shocker is ready.

Manufacturing a high-voltage module from an energy-saving lamp

And such a device can be easily made with your own hands. But where can I get a high-voltage module? You can use a regular incandescent light bulb. At first we wind no more than 80 skeins. The second layer is 400-600 turns. Between each layer, do not forget to insulate with tape.

To test the device, we connect it through a 35 W limit light bulb. The result is a fairly powerful high-voltage ignition module.

Areas of application of products

Where is the high voltage module used? Such devices are widely used for the manufacture of modern equipment and can serve as a laboratory high-voltage generator. Using such a device, you can build a homemade shocker, a system for igniting fuel in an injector or engine.

Can be used to provide power to a portable Geiger counter, dosimeter, and types of equipment that require high voltages with a power supply that has low power.

The microcircuit device is turned on in the “Multivibrator” mode with frequency indicators adjusted depending on the characteristics of the transformer. The high level, which indicates the current output flowing through the resistor and the primary winding of the transformer, is capable of charging a 10 uF capacitor. In order to produce an electric shock, you will need a transformer device, the multiplication factor of which is 1 to 400 or higher.

To obtain a spark of 1 mm, a voltage of about 1000 V is needed. Knowing the sequence of work, you can make such a device with your own hands.

From this article you will learn how to get high voltage, high frequency with your own hands. The cost of the entire structure does not exceed 500 rubles, with a minimum of labor costs.

To make it, you will need only 2 things: - an energy-saving lamp (the main thing is that there is a working ballast circuit) and a line transformer from a TV, monitor and other CRT equipment.

Energy saving lamps (correct name: compact fluorescent lamp) are already firmly established in our everyday life, so I think it won’t be difficult to find a lamp with a non-working bulb, but with a working ballast circuit.
The CFL electronic ballast generates high frequency voltage pulses (usually 20-120 kHz) which powers a small step-up transformer, etc. the lamp lights up. Modern ballasts are very compact and easily fit into the base of the E27 socket.

The lamp ballast produces voltage up to 1000 Volts. If you connect a line transformer instead of a lamp bulb, you can achieve amazing effects.

A little about compact fluorescent lamps

Blocks in the diagram:
1 - rectifier. It converts alternating voltage into direct voltage.
2 - transistors connected according to the push-pull circuit (push-pull).
3 - toroidal transformer
4 - resonant circuit of a capacitor and inductor to create high voltage
5 - fluorescent lamp, which we will replace with a liner

CFLs are produced in a wide variety of powers, sizes, and form factors. The greater the lamp power, the higher the voltage must be applied to the lamp bulb. In this article I used a 65 Watt CFL.

Most CFLs have the same type of circuit design. And they all have 4 pins for connecting a fluorescent lamp. It will be necessary to connect the ballast output to the primary winding of the line transformer.

A little about line transformers

Liners also come in different sizes and shapes.

The main problem when connecting a line reader is to find the 3 pins we need out of the 10-20 they usually have. One terminal is common and a couple of other terminals are the primary winding, which will cling to the CFL ballast.
If you can find documentation for the liner, or a diagram of the equipment where it used to be, then your task will be significantly easier.

Attention! The liner may contain residual voltage, so be sure to discharge it before working with it.

Final design

In the photo above you can see the device in operation.

And remember that this is constant tension. The thick red pin is a plus. If you need alternating voltage, then you need to remove the diode from the liner, or find an old one without a diode.

Possible problems

When I assembled my first high voltage circuit, it worked immediately. Then I used ballast from a 26-watt lamp.
I immediately wanted more.

I took a more powerful ballast from a CFL and repeated the first circuit exactly. But the scheme did not work. I thought the ballast had burned out. I reconnected the lamp bulbs and turned them on. The lamp came on. This means it was not a matter of ballast - it was working.

After some thought, I came to the conclusion that the electronics of the ballast should determine the filament of the lamp. And I used only 2 external terminals on the lamp bulb, and left the internal ones “in the air”. Therefore, I placed a resistor between the external and internal ballast terminals. I turned it on and the circuit started working, but the resistor quickly burned out.

I decided to use a capacitor instead of a resistor. The fact is that a capacitor passes only alternating current, while a resistor passes both alternating and direct current. Also, the capacitor did not heat up, because gave little resistance to the AC path.

The capacitor worked great! The arc turned out to be very large and thick!

So, if your circuit does not work, then most likely there are 2 reasons:
1. Something was connected incorrectly, either on the ballast side or on the side of the line transformer.
2. The electronics of the ballast are tied to working with the filament, and since If it is not there, then a capacitor will help replace it.

Hello to all High Voltage fans! I would like to post a short review of a device designed to convert low voltage direct current into high voltage pulses. The module has been purchased.

Structurally, the module is a cylinder approximately 65 mm long and 25 mm in diameter. The cylinder has a 15 mm wide flat along the entire length of the product. The module weight is 50 g.

According to the seller, the module consumes a constant voltage in the range of 3-6 V, at a current of 2-5 A (it is difficult to understand exactly from the description, but for reasons of context and common sense, this seems to be the case). The module is non-separable, completely filled with a compound from which the power wires and wires carrying high voltage are removed. High-voltage wires are red, low-voltage wires: “plus” - red, “minus” - green.

In general, the module is operational at a current of about 1 A and a voltage of 1.5 V, but in this case there are individual high voltage pulses at the output. In this experiment, a power supply with a rated load capacity of 1000 mA was used. A filtering electrolytic capacitor of 10000 μF * 16 V is connected in parallel to the high-voltage converter.

In this mode, the module produces a spark about 1 cm long. That is, we can conclude that the voltage at the output of the device is 10-20 kV. In any case, there can be no talk of any 400 kV.

To obtain a constant electric arc, you need a sufficiently powerful power supply capable of delivering a current of several amperes to the load.

At the rated input current, the converter produces a constant arc at the output. The manufacturer warns that it is not advisable to use the module for more than 1 minute, and care must be taken that the distance between the contacts of the spark gap is sufficient for a spark to occur, otherwise an electrical breakdown may occur in an arbitrary location in the high-voltage part of the device.

Manufacturing homemade This type of work requires special skills and knowledge. If this is your first homemade, this type, you should seek help from a specialist (for your own safety).

The article only demonstrates the process of manufacturing a power supply. The author of this article is not responsible for any damage or injury caused by the use of this information.

Step 1: Introduction

This power supply was designed to supply a constant voltage of approximately 50 kV. It can easily be converted into an adjustable power supply by connecting a rheostat (if a transformer is used) or adding additional circuits to regulate power.

The total cost is about 15 €, since most of the parts (transformer, bridge rectifier, heatsink, switches, cables...) were taken from old equipment, the only parts that were purchased were the 555 timer, connectors and capacitors.

Step 2: Materials

  • Transformer+rectifier bridge+capacitors;
  • Switches and connectors;
  • Heat shrink tubes;
  • Breadboard and printed circuit board;
  • 555 timer;
  • 8 pin socket;
  • 7812 (if incoming power to 555 is > than 14.5V or lower than 35V);
  • Small radiator for 7812 (if necessary);
  • 2*100 nF;
  • 1*1uF;
  • 1*10nF;
  • 1*68 uF (or 100 uF);
  • 2*4148 diodes;
  • 3*10k;
  • (1 MOS) 10R;
  • 1*680R;
  • 1*470R;
  • 1*10k variable resistor;
  • 1*100k variable resistor;
  • 2* handles for variable resistors;
  • 1*2N2222 and 2N2907 (or other NPN-PNP pair);
  • 1*Infrared sensor;
  • 1*Infrared LED;
  • 1*BC547(or similar: 2N2222or 2N3904);
  • 2* High Voltage Isolating Connectors;
  • 3* MOS IRF540N, but I recommend 1*IRFP260;
  • Radiator for transistors (and fan, if necessary);
  • Buttons;
  • Line scan transformer from an old TV or computer monitor;
  • Thick copper cable (about 1 meter);
  • Epoxy adhesive.

Step 3: Calculations

The only calculation that needs to be done is calculating the value of the capacitors (if you are using a transformer).

In my case I used 20000 uF. Perhaps you should add 10000uF or 20000uF to see the effect on the output. The ripple created due to changing currents can change the correct operation of the control, resulting in reduced efficiency and reduced arcing.

Step 4: Making the box

Every power supply needs a secure box that will hide the circuit components. The obvious materials for the case are wood and plastic.

I chose wood because it will provide additional insulation for high voltage elements.

Note: If you plan to paint the case, first test the paint for conductivity at high voltages.

ATTENTION: Even though wood is a very good insulator, it can accumulate moisture. Before making the body, I recommend drying the wood in an oven and then applying an even coat of paint.

Step 5: Control Circuit

Let's assemble a small circuit based on a 555 timer with adjustable frequency and duty cycle (from 5-50kHz and 5-50% duty cycle), it has its own 12V input, which does not depend on the transformer.

We connect three IRF540Ns in parallel (you can use one IRFP260N). With this configuration they barely get warm, even under full load.

Let's add a button with a 1k resistor to the circuit (an IR sensor should be placed in this place). You can modify the circuit and remove the transistor, leaving the button and a 10k resistor connected to pin 4 going to ground.

Note:To take the duty cycle from 5 to 50% (rather than from ~5% to 100%), we'll place a 10k resistor as shown in the picture. This resistor must be placed in assembly with the diode in front of the capacitor. If you connect it in series with another diode then you will end up adjusting the duty cycle from 50 to 100%.

Step 6: Install the Wiring

After making sure that the circuit works correctly, we will connect the MOS transistors in parallel (to do this, we will connect all the “drains” and “sources” with “high current” cables), adding 10 Ohms to each pin and connecting them together.

We attach the connector of the network cable and the switch to the box and connect them (it is very important to use heat-shrinkable tubing to protect the connections).

ATTENTION: A button is preferable to a switch! In the event of an accident, the button will spring back and break the chain. NEVER use the switch as a circuit breaker.

After the control circuit has been assembled, you can begin connecting the power supply.

Step 7: Mounting the Power Supply

After we find a suitable power source, we attach it to the circuit. Let's connect the 12V power supply along with the transformer to one terminal of the switch, as shown in the picture. We connect the transformer to the bridge rectifier, and then the capacitors, using heat shrink tubing to insulate the circuit connections.

Connect power to the flyback and MOSFETs as shown in the next step.

Step 8: Preparation, Connection and Reverse Isolation

We wrap about 10 turns of thick wire around the core of the primary winding. The positive terminal of the power supply is connected to one end of this wire, and the other end is connected to the “drain” of the field-effect transistor. You can use terminal blocks for connections. We solder the wires and cover all contacts with epoxy resin.