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Wiring diagram for a car radio. Connecting the radio with do-it-yourself installation in the car (pinout of ISO and mini ISO audio system connectors). Radio installation steps

A car radio is an essential attribute for almost every driver, because listening to your favorite music lifts your mood and distracts you from unnecessary thoughts. Some motorists are content with the original factory player, but particularly demanding music lovers require a new, modern one, with an additional amplifier, speakers, and other accessories. In addition, the radio may fail or become obsolete. This is where the question of replacing this unit with a new one arises.
It should be noted that all drivers are divided into two groups of users: those who trust all processes, even the smallest ones, exclusively to service station specialists, and those for whom it will not be difficult or difficult, including equipping the car with a new radio, alarm system, and other systems.

Selecting a radio.

Radio tape recorders are different, and not only in design and number of functions, but also in size. Single-din (1DIN), or single-block car players are the most common in our time; they are installed mainly by European automakers. As for American and Japanese car manufacturers, they mostly install double-din (2DIN), or models with two blocks. Recently, due to the active development of the multimedia market, the demand for dual music systems for cars has increased, because a large radio tape recorder can accommodate many different functions, and openings for disks and USB drives. Please note that the range includes radios that are sized only for a specific car model. Choose a car radio from a reliable manufacturer; do not be tempted by the price of cheap options; usually they are of low quality and short-lived.
So, the radio has been selected. Open the box to view the device's contents. As a rule, the following are included with the radio itself:

  • instructions detailing how and where to install the radio;
  • wiring;
  • set of acoustic systems.

If desired, you can immediately purchase additional equipment, for example, a subwoofer, equalizers, amplifiers.

How to install the radio correctly.

  1. Read the instructions for connecting the device. Make sure the installation diagram is clear to you.
  2. Carefully remove the necessary part of the instrument panel to gain access to the player installation area. Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the old radio from the niche. Leave the fasteners to secure the new radio.
  3. To secure a new device, two methods are used - front mounting using a special frame, or side mounting. To install the car radio using the first method, remove the frame from the device body and install it in a special niche in the center console of the instrument panel. Unscrew the metal teeth so that the frame is securely fastened in the socket, connect the radio to the plug, and insert it into place. As for the second method, to fix the player, secure the block with the existing bolts, holes for which are located in the side parts of the device.
  4. When installing the radio yourself, take care of the neat appearance of the device in the instrument panel. As a rule, the installation kit contains a decorative frame that is attached to the panel and hides possible minor defects created during the work process. If you need to install a 1DIN radio in the hole created for a 2DIN radio, the empty space can be filled with a special shelf or a frame with plugs.

Connecting the radio.

The player can be connected either using wires, but without connectors, or using ISO connectors.
A very important point in the entire procedure for installing a radio on your own is the type of connection connectors that your car is equipped with. In fact, there are three options, it all depends on the brand of car:

  • ISO connector;
  • another connector developed by the automaker's designers.
  • lack of connectors and wiring.

In the third case, if there is no wiring, you will have to stretch it yourself, removing the upholstery of the car. The car's wiring system provides for the connection of positive wires to the head units, and the yellow wire is always energized and is responsible for the memory of settings, and the red wire is responsible for powering the mechanisms, and is de-energized when the engine stops running, so that the turned on radio does not cause the battery to discharge.

If the car is equipped with a wiring system with ISO connectors, then connecting the radio is very simple - you just need to connect the mating parts of the device and connectors, and also insert the antenna plug into the corresponding socket. According to the ISO standard, there are two types of plugs: black, which is responsible for powering the radio, as well as its additional functions, and brown, which provides audio output to the car's speaker system.

In cars with non-standard size connectors installed by the automaker, you will have to cut off the connectors and connect each wire separately, or install adapters, which are usually included with the player. Installing adapters not only increases the safety of the radio, but also makes it easier to connect new devices in the future. When connecting wiring, you should be especially careful, because incorrect connection can lead to a short-circuit in the system.

Some manufacturers provide “standard audio preparation” in their cars, that is, simplifying the connection of the playing device and speaker system. Before installing the radio in the car, the car buyer should clarify how this simplification was made: by laying the wiring, or by installing acoustics, rear or front. After successfully installing the radio in your car, before putting on the instrument panel cover, be sure to check its functionality.
Thus, installing and connecting an audio system to your car is as easy as .

Installing a radio - video instructions

Our car may change more than one stereo system during its life, due to the fact that it may become obsolete or the owner will have higher requirements for the sound in the car. Perhaps your car doesn’t even have a radio... In general, there can be a great many cases and variations! It is in these cases that information on installing and connecting a radio to a car will be useful and necessary for you. Especially if you decide to do everything yourself. In addition, this article is also for those cases when the radio tape recorder was installed earlier (for example, by the previous owner), but subsequently the history and installation paths became so confused that only a bunch of multi-colored wires stick out from the window under the radio tape recorder, which is difficult to deal with without having certain knowledge. So, our article provides typical solutions for installing and connecting a radio. You can also find information on adapter plugs for connecting radios in cars of various brands.

What sizes are the radio tape recorders used for installation and connection?

The radio tape recorders themselves are, to put it in Russian, single-block and double-block formats (single-din and double-din). Initially, car radios of the 1DIN standard (single-block) were most widespread. However, everyone needs comfort and a big screen. As a result, 2 DIN radios are slowly squeezing 1DIN radios out of our lives.
Many European car manufacturers still offer a niche of 1DIN sizes. These are Renault, Citroen... But American and Japanese, and with them Korean cars, have a large niche for installation from the factory. That is 2DIN.

Also, with the growing availability and demand for multimedia products, the 2DIN radio format is clearly more promising. Take a look for yourself, what do you think is better?

When asked which of these radios to choose for installation, you must proceed from the conditions for the possibility of mechanical installation of such a radio in the instrument panel of the car, as well as from your preferences. We will only give our recommendations in our other article, “Which radio to choose for your car.”
There are also standard devices used for a specific car model. They often have a unique body shape, which makes it impossible to install them on another machine. For an example of installing a radio with a unique housing, see the article “Removing and installing a radio in a Toyota Corolla 150.” Such radios also have their own original plug for connection.
However, there are also running radios. That is, with which there are no difficulties. Let's say such a radio tape recorder "Installing a radio tape recorder in a Lada Granta with your own hands."

Of course, you may ask, what is special about the difference between a radio for a specific car model and a “universal” radio!? It's simple! Most "universal" radios have a standard ISO connection. That is, ISO and mini ISO plugs.

ISO connectors as the basis for connecting most radios

So, we realized that the radio may differ not only in appearance, but also in the connectors used to connect it. If these are unique standard radios, then they will probably need their own plug and pinout. If this is a radio tape recorder purchased for an unspecified car model, then it almost certainly has a connection via ISO plugs.

So what are these “almighty” ISO connectors? They look like this if you look at the back panel of the radio.

These connectors come with matching connectors of their own. In this case, in some cases adapters may be used. That is, when the radio casing has its own uniquely shaped contact-connectors, but ISO plugs are still installed at the other end. That is why we focused on the fact that the ISO standard for radio tape recorders exists as one of the dogmas!
Often you can even find adapters for a specific radio model, be it Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, Sony, or even the Chinese Mistery, but they will come with an ISO adapter. Actually, this is a generally accepted and fully formed solution at the moment. After all, you can always switch from ISO standard connectors to the connectors you need, that’s the whole point!

Pinout, pin designation on ISO connectors for connecting a radio

So, after we got acquainted with the ISO connector standard, it would be nice to now know which contacts are and what they are responsible for. After all, the best thing about this situation is that there are clearly designated contacts for each electrical circuit. That is, you can easily find out where and what will be connected, which is exactly what we need! It’s enough just to use the picture where there are contact numbers and refer to the table where there is a transcript of these same contacts.

Connector C (yellow section, low signal outputs to the amplifier and its control)
1 Output rear left low signal
2 Output right left low signal
3 Output ground low signal (headset)
4 Front left low signal output (headset)
5 Output right left low signal (headset)
6 Output signal to turn on the amplifier
Connector C (green section, CAN, LIN BUS, steering column joystick)
7 Line input (phone audio signal input)
8 Line input ground,
(there may be a signal to an external additional standard display in the car - vehicle display interface)
9 Lin BUS control via 1 wire from the steering column joystick
10 CAN H bus, (may be activated for standard display)
11 Ground (-) (telephone audio signal ground)
12 CAN L bus, (can be telephone ground)
Connector C (blue section, work with video signal)
13 -,(can be CD data from changer input)
14 -,(can be CD data from changer output)
15 -,(can be CD for control)
16 Video input (ground), (can be CD powered from the changer)
17 -,(power supply to CD changer)
18 -,(can be CD audio input ground)
19 Video input signal, works when voltage is applied to section A,
pin 1 (could be CD audio left)
20 -,(maybe CD audio right)
Connector B (brown plug, speaker output)
1 Rear right speaker + (lilac)
2 Rear right speaker - (lilac-black)
3 Front right speaker + (gray)
4 Front right speaker - (gray-black)
5 Front left speaker + (white)
6 Front left speaker - (white-black)
7 Rear left speaker + (green)
8 Rear left speaker - (green-black)
Connector A (black plug, radio power supply)
1 from the reverse lamp +12 V to activate the video input,
(maybe Speed-Sensitive Volume Control - with increasing speed, the volume increases,
may be a MUTE signal)
2 there may be a MUTE signal
3 reserve
4 +12 power supply and memory (yellow)
5 +12 V antenna power or control for the amplifier (blue or blue-white)
6 Backlight + 12 V for dimming, or for backlighting the radio
7 +12 volts control from the ignition switch (red)
8 Ground "-" (black)

What other symbols can be found on the radio?

Actually, there may be other symbols on the radio, each of which is responsible for something different.

DATA IN - data input
-DATA OUT - data output
-Line Out - linear output
-REM or REMOTE CONTROL or Amp - control voltage (Amplifier)
-ACP+, ACP- - Bus lines (Ford)
-CAN-L - CAN bus line
-CAN-H - CAN bus line
-K-BUS - Bidirectional serial bus (K-line)
-SHIELD - Connection of shielded wire braid.
-AUDIO COM or R COM, L COM - Common wire (ground) of the input or output of preamplifiers
-CD-IN L+, CD-IN L-, CD-IN R+, CD-IN R- - Balanced linear inputs of audio signal from the changer
-SW+B - Switches power supply to +B battery.
-SEC IN - Second input
-DIMMER - Change the brightness of the display
-ALARM = Connection of alarm contacts for the radio to perform car security functions (PIONEER radios)
-SDA, SCL, MRQ - Exchange buses with the standard car display. If such a function is supported, it is usually written on the radio - vehicle display interface. Or is there such an icon -
-LINE OUT, LINE IN - Line output and input, respectively.
-D2B+, D2B- - Optical communication line of the audio system

In general, you understand that the whole connection will come down to knowing which contact to connect to what. For those who still want to see the diagram, and not be content with the designation of the plugs, we will provide this opportunity too...

Diagram (electrical circuit) for connecting the radio

From all of the above it follows that the connection of the radio will be carried out according to this scheme. Of course, all connections are made according to the table.

This connection of contacts by color matches most radios, but not all. There are extremely rare exceptions. It seems that this is all, but “everything” in such a matter never happens... After all, there are many nuances that are definitely worth paying attention to.

What is important to consider when installing and connecting the radio

Power supply for the radio

If you did not have audio preparation before, that is, those same ISO connectors under the “dashboard,” then it is better to draw power directly from the battery. If such connectors exist, then there is no need to reinvent the wheel. Especially if you are not going to participate in any sound competitions. So, if you carefully read and watched the article, you already realized that two wires are used to power the radio. It's red and yellow!
The red one is switched off via the ignition switch, marked as ACC, this is the control wire. It serves only to control the power supply of the radio and nothing more. But the yellow one is constantly connected. Yellow is responsible for powering the radio's memory and settings. So that every time you don’t have to set the timbre, the balance of the speakers, look for stations... In addition, the yellow one is also a power one, an increased current is supplied through it when there is power on the red wire.

Now let's think... What will happen to the battery if you do not ensure that the control wire of the radio is disconnected while parked?

Nothing good will happen. One fine day, or maybe not as beautiful as it turns out later, your battery will simply run out. And this means that the red wire still needs to be disconnected. But disconnecting the wire from the ignition switch is not comme il faut. How then can you listen to the radio at a picnic when the ignition is turned off? So why leave the car with the ignition on? Not an option! And here you will have to think about ensuring that there is always power to the red wire until the car is armed against the alarm.

You can install a simple electrical circuit that will connect and disconnect the radio automatically from the alarm.

This diagram for connecting and disconnecting the radio works as follows. We find the lock responsible for opening and closing the doors. And we connect everything according to the diagram. As a result, when the doors are opened, a positive pulse from the solenoid is sent to relay P1, and the relay will operate and actually go into self-retaining mode. Power will also be provided from the battery through relay P2 to power the radio. This is how everything will work for the time being.
When closing, we take a positive impulse to relay P2. In this case, the power supply circuit of relay P1 and the radio will break, the radio will turn off, and relay P1 will go into a de-energized state. That's all! The power supply to the radio will be turned on when disarmed and turned off when armed.

This scheme has one drawback, increased power consumption due to the additional relay P1, which will always be turned on when the radio is running. But the current itself is 60-80 mA, not so critical.

Power supply for the radio's active antenna (amplifier)

Connecting the antenna power is a blue wire, sometimes white-blue. The power supply must not exceed 300 mA. This is a control wire, but not a power wire. Power is supplied automatically after turning on the radio. It turns off immediately after turning off the radio. However, if we say the blue wire is paralleled with the red one when turned on, then the radio will automatically switch on when turned on, as in the diagram above. Using this principle, several more schemes can be implemented by analogy with the one we have already presented. This is a voluminous topic, and we will separate it into a separate article, “Powering the radio when the ignition is turned off.”

Wires for radio speakers

If you did not have a car radio, then in addition to installing and connecting it, you will also have to pull out the speaker wire for the speakers. In this case, we strongly recommend that you consider using specialized acoustic wires with a cross-section of about 1.5-2 mm2.

The wires are cheap compared to the radio, but you will definitely feel a “qualitative leap” from their use. The resistance of acoustics is usually 4 ohms, and the wiring from the acoustics kit will be comparable in resistance to the speakers. Which in turn will entail a significant dissipation of the power of the radio amplifier, precisely on the auxiliary equipment - acoustic wiring, and not on the speakers (acoustics). As a result, the playback volume will decrease and, even worse, the range of reproduced frequencies will also decrease. The peculiarities of HF propagation are that the signal travels only along the surface of the wire skin* (* from English skin, outer surface shell) effect; accordingly, with a smaller diameter of the wire, its throughput to HF will decrease. In addition, I would like to say more about the selection, installation and connection of speakers in a car; you can read about this in the article “Selecting acoustics and speakers for installation and connection in a car.”

Additional information about installing a radio in a car (for those who are weak in electrical engineering)

These recommendations for connecting and installing a radio will be useful for people who have little understanding of the principle of operation of electrical circuits: power source - load. Installation and connection of car radios today has become a professional service, so you definitely need to remember about installation service centers. This is where professional specialists work who are engaged in installation and installation of additional equipment (radio tape recorders, amplifiers, subwoofers). They know all the intricacies of a particular radio model, which allows them to complete the installation in the shortest possible time without loss of quality, with a guarantee of work. This is one of the most important factors that can be decisive when choosing.

At this stage I would like to stop, since for most, installing and connecting additional equipment to the radio, such as an amplifier, subwoofer, rear view camera, and so on, is not an urgent need. But it would be wrong to clutter the article with all kinds of information about the installation and connection of this equipment, since it is better to analyze special cases in each individual subsequent article, especially since there are quite a lot of these cases. As the proverb goes, I would like to separate the flies from the cutlets. If you still have the opportunity and desire to install something more than a radio, read the articles in the Car Audio section of this site.
In addition to this article, you can also read:

Safety warnings when installing and connecting the radio in a car!!! All work on installing a radio in a car should be carried out with the negative terminal of the battery disconnected. After installing the radio, you must carefully check all connections and that they are connected correctly. Then cross yourself and turn it on!

High-quality sound makes car trips much more enjoyable, but before you can enjoy your favorite music, you need to connect the radio correctly. This procedure is not very complicated, but due to the fact that each car and radio manufacturer uses its own connectors, some installation difficulties may arise. Connecting the radio according to the color of the wires will come to the rescue.

Precautionary measures

You need to understand that incorrectly connecting the car radio can lead to unpleasant consequences:

  • Breakdown of the radio;
  • Deterioration in sound quality;
  • Wiring short circuit;
  • In rare cases, if you connect the radio to the battery incorrectly, you can quickly discharge it. Sometimes this can cause a fire.

In order not to waste your time, you can use the services of a car repair shop, but you need to be prepared to spend a certain amount that the service will charge for connection. In addition, it is worth considering that the cost of connecting a car radio to a foreign car (for example, Toyota) will be higher. The brand of the car radio is also taken into account. Thus, a Pioneer radio (which is the most common and beloved among motorists) will cost less than a Sony or Kenwood radio.

But if a car enthusiast has a desire to understand the device, the ability to spend a couple of hours and, no less important, the desire to save a decent amount of money, then the rest of the article will describe in detail how to connect a car radio according to the colors of the wires.

Car radio device options

All radios are manufactured according to the standards of the company that owns them. The aforementioned Pioneer, Kenwood and Sony are manufactured in accordance with the standards of their companies. However, each of them has a standard ISO adapter. Likewise, every machine has a standard plug for this adapter.

Based on this, one of three situations may arise:

  • The first option is ideal. All wires in the car have been removed. Everything is connected according to standards and output to an ISO connector. There will be no difficulties in this case. You just need to connect this connector to the radio.
  • The second case is when all the wires are routed correctly, but the connector does not fit. In this case, you can purchase a conductor, of which there are a great many sold in specialized stores, connect the radio through the conductor and enjoy high-quality sound.
  • The last option: the wires are not brought out into one connector or there are none at all.

The third option is the most problematic, and therefore it is necessary to consider it further.

Wire color identification

For the correct connection to work, you must know the colors of the wires and their designation. The diagram of the radio wires by color is shown in the photo. On all cars and radios (Pioneer, Sony and Kenwood and others) it is customary to use a certain color to indicate the identity of the wire. It is worth noting that the radio wires differ in color and in the presence or absence of a strip. So, all wires with a stripe are a minus, and those without a stripe are a plus.

  • Battery negative – black;
  • Battery plus – yellow;

  • Ignition plus – red;
  • Left front speaker – white and white with stripe;
  • Right front speaker – gray and gray with stripe;
  • Left rear speaker – green and green with stripe;
  • Right rear speaker – purple with a purple stripe;
  • Antenna – blue;
  • Amplifier – blue with a stripe.

Connecting a car radio

When connecting the radio, you must strictly follow the diagram. To power the car radio, you need to connect the yellow wire to the battery positive. The black wire goes to ground, this is grounding. The red wire is powered from the ignition switch. Ideally, it should be connected so that it is powered only when the key is in the ACC position.

Since installation difficulties arise precisely in the absence of an ISO adapter, all wires must be stripped and then insulated. Stranded copper wires with silicone insulation are ideal. Once the wiring is complete, they can be combined into a standard adapter, but you can also insulate them with the radio wires. The main thing is that the color of the wires of the radio and the car match each other.

There are several other undesirable options for connecting a car radio to a car. Most motorists, not wanting to bother with connecting the yellow wire to the battery, connect it together with the red wire to the ignition switch. This deprives the radio of more power and does not allow you to get high-quality and powerful sound. The same thing happens when the radio is powered from the cigarette lighter.

It happens that the yellow and red wires are connected to the battery. The advantages of this connection are that the radio is always in standby mode and ready for use. However, this method quickly lands him. Therefore, it is worth thinking about what is more important: the operation of the radio independent of the ignition switch or the long-term operation of the battery?

Connecting speakers

The colors of the radio speaker wires have already been described above. Therefore, in accordance with them, you can safely connect any speakers.

Today, almost all car radios are oriented towards 4 speakers: two in front and two in back. It is worth noting that a powerful audio system has a plus and minus output to each speaker. A weak audio system has only a positive output. Therefore, the minus from the column is displayed on the total mass. To get better sound, it is best to observe the plus and minus contacts.

If poor sound quality occurs after installation, there is a simple and effective way to make the connection correctly. You need to transfer the sound to the front speakers, then transfer the sound to one speaker, for example, the left one. Turn on the music at full volume until wheezing or distortion appears. After that, transfer the sound to the 2 front speakers.

If the sound becomes louder and remains of high quality, then the connection is made correctly. If there is no change in volume, or distortion appears, then you need to check whether the plus and minus are connected correctly.

As you can see, connecting a car radio based on the color of the wires is not difficult and, with a careful approach, will take no more than 2-3 hours.

Installing or replacing a car radio in a car is possible independently by any motorist who does not spend money on everything. If you have big problems with your hands, then it is better to contact a car service - it will definitely work out cheaper and much faster. The following is an article for those who have “direct hands” and whose last name is not Rockefeller. :) The connection diagram for different radios in different cars remains the same, but there are various nuances and features. Unfortunately, we are still far from universal standardization and interchangeability.
Depending on the installation method, car radios or receivers can be built-in or stationary.

To protect against theft, built-in radios are often equipped with a removable front panel; previously, guide slides with a lock were used to quickly remove the entire device.
Stationary car radios are protected from theft by their original shape and non-standard dimensions. They fit a certain brand of car, which deprives them of versatility. As a rule, such radios are installed by car manufacturers on the assembly line. Containers under the radio in some car models are equipped with a special curtain - the device is quite simple, but very effective against car thieves.

Modern radio tape recorders come in two height sizes - one block and two block (or single-din and double-din). European manufacturers mostly produce 1DIN (single-block) car radios. And the car must have a suitable niche size. Japanese, American, as well as Korean companies present equipment twice as high in height, for a corresponding niche for installation in a car, which is called 2DIN. This is the main thing you need to pay attention to when buying a car radio for your car.

Next are the connectors. Different radios and cars may have different types of connectors. Therefore, you need to look at what connector is in the car before buying a radio. If the connector in the purchased radio does not match the car connector, then that’s okay too.
Option 1 (preferred) - there are a large number of different adapters, the main thing is to choose the right one. Special adapters are also produced that allow you to switch from original pads to the ISO standard.
Option 2 - Unpick the connector and connect directly. An extreme method, but knowing the scheme, you won’t be left without music.

The most common connector for connecting a car radio is ISO 10487. First of all, check its availability in your car.

If you have one, then you just need to make sure the pinout of your connector is correct.

For inputs to the radio, almost all manufacturers adhere to standard color coding of wires.

- Yellow wire(BAT) - to constant +, regardless of the position of the ignition switch, directly to the battery through a 10-20A fuse;

-Red wire(ACC) - to the ignition switch terminal, on which + appears when the ignition key is turned. On many foreign cars there is already a separate wire in the block. You just need to find it (quite simply with the help of a tester or a control light). Or, if difficulties arise, to any terminal where +12 appears when the ignition is turned on.

- Black wire- this is minus or mass, which is the same thing. Connects to the body with a good contact. ( there is a constant minus).

- Blue/white - blue wire(REM) is a control wire that, when the radio is turned on, automatically turns on the car amplifier or active antenna.

- Orange wire car radio (or variations) (ILL) - connects to the light switch terminal or to any other terminal where +12 appears when the side lights or headlights are turned on.

- Yellow - black wire(variations) (MUTE) - this is a remote control that turns off the sound or mutes it. Connects to the corresponding wire of your car Hands. If the kit is missing, do not connect it anywhere. This is an option and does not affect the performance of the radio or the quality of work.

The outputs of the radio are the acoustic wires to the speakers. They have paired colors. A specific speaker is connected to each color pair:

White pair of wires- front left speaker;

Gray couple- front right speaker;

Green couple- rear left speaker;

Purple couple- rear right speaker.

Each pair of speaker wires consists of a solid wire and a wire with a black stripe. The black stripe indicates the negative wire.
It is very important to ensure that the speaker wires are connected correctly, otherwise, if the color scheme is not followed, the balance adjustment will not be correct; if the polarity is not observed, the rear speakers will play in antiphase, which will manifest itself as a lack of bass.

General car radio connection diagram

Schematic, letter symbols found in instructions for connecting radio tape recorders of various brands

Acoustic group:
- R = Speaker right.
- L = Speaker left.
- FR+, FR- or RF+, RF- = Front speaker - right (plus or minus, respectively).
- FL+, FL- or LF+, LF- = Front speaker - left (plus or minus, respectively).
- RR+, RR- = Rear speaker - right (plus or minus, respectively).
- LR+, LR- or RL+, RL- = Rear speaker - left (plus or minus, respectively).
- GND SP = Speaker ground.

Power connector:
- B+ or BAT or K30 or Bup+ or B/Up or B-UP or MEM +12 = Battery powered (plus)

GND or GROUND or K31 or just a minus = Common wire (Ground), battery minus.

A+ or ACC or KL 15 or S-K or S-kont or SAFE or SWA = +12 from the ignition switch.

N/C or n/c or N/A = No contact. (Physically the output is there but not connected anywhere).

ILL or LAMP or sun symbol or 15b or Lume or iLLUM or K1.58b = Panel illumination. +12 volts are supplied to the contact when the side lights are turned on. Some radios have two wires, -iLL+ and iLL-. The negative wire is galvanically isolated from ground.

Ant or ANT+ or AutoAnt or P.ANT = After turning on the radio, +12 volts are supplied from this contact to control the retractable antenna, if one is present, of course.

MUTE or Mut or mu or the image of a crossed out speaker or TEL or TEL MUTE = Input to turn off or mute the sound when receiving a phone call or other actions (for example, reversing).

Other possible contacts:

Amp = External amplifier power-on control pin
-DATA IN = Data input
-DATA OUT = Data output
-Line Out = Line Out
-REM or REMOTE CONTROL = Control voltage (Amplifier)
-ACP+, ACP- = Bus lines (Ford)
-CAN-L = CAN bus line
-CAN-H = CAN bus line
-K-BUS = Bidirectional serial bus (K-line)
-SHIELD = Shielded wire braid connection.
-AUDIO COM or R COM, L COM = Common (ground) input or output of preamplifiers
-CD-IN L+, CD-IN L-, CD-IN R+, CD-IN R- = Balanced linear inputs of audio signal from the changer
-SW+B = Switches power to +B battery.
-SEC IN = Second input
-DIMMER = Change display brightness
-ALARM = Connection of alarm contacts for the radio to perform car security functions (PIONEER radios)
-SDA, SCL, MRQ = Communication buses with the vehicle display.
-LINE OUT, LINE IN = Line output and input, respectively.
-D2B+, D2B- = Optical audio link

If, when connecting a DVR or navigator, interference appears to radio reception, the reason is not in the radio. Remedies follow the link.

    When powering the radio, red and yellow wires are used. Yellow is intended to power the memory, and red is used to turn off the radio and assumes the presence of an output to the ignition switch. This means that after turning off the ignition, the car radio will automatically turn off. The most convenient option is to connect the yellow and red wires in parallel, then the radio will turn off only when you press a button on the radio panel.

However, in this case, problems may arise due to the fact that the radio amplifiers are powered by the red wire, including in standby mode. Therefore, current consumption increases, which means the battery may discharge faster. In order to avoid this situation, you can put a separate switch on the red wire of the radio, then the power will turn off automatically when the car is parked for a long time.
If you have a radio with an internal battery to save settings, then use a circuit with a complete power cut when the radio is turned off. Then your main battery on the car is guaranteed not to be discharged during long-term parking through the receiver.

At the end, we test the sound and correct operation of all functions (front/rear balance, left/right speakers, frequencies, radio waves). If the phasing and installation of the speakers was carried out correctly, then there should be no wheezing or interference during playback.

During the period of use of your car, the car radio is changed several times. There may be various reasons for this. Someone wanted better sound quality, for someone it simply broke down, and someone follows fashion and simply wants to update outdated equipment.

To install a new radio, many people have to pay for a service at a car service center. However, you just have to find out the purpose of all the wires at its outputs and the purpose of all the plugs, and how to install the car radio will no longer be a difficult question.

Radio format

They come in single-block (or single-din) and double-block (double-din). These formats are designated as 1DIN and 2DIN, respectively. In Europe, single-din ones are common, but in America, Japan and Korea - double-din ones.

Recently, the need for two-block radios has increased, because The size of the case allows for additional multimedia functions. It is worth considering that.

Plugs with ISO markings

ISO marking is an international standard established for the production of car radios and vehicle wiring. In order to prevent equipment damage, it is prohibited to use the car and radio wiring for purposes other than their intended purpose. Almost all manufacturers of audio equipment equip these contacts with an adapter to the ISO standard.

There are various adapters for connecting and installing vehicle electrical networks to the ISO standard.

Each car brand uses its own plugs. In addition, adapters are produced, thanks to which you can switch to the ISO standard from the original pads. There are many adapters for connecting car electrical networks to the ISO standard. Adapters are also available for switching from the original car radio pads to the ISO standard.

Often, manufacturers of car audio equipment supply it with individual plugs, regardless of the international standard. But still, companies that respect their brand make sure that they have adapters for ISO standard plugs. If the car has standard wiring, everything is much simpler: all you have to do is use it to connect the car radio.

DIY car radio installation

There is one slightly “clumsy”, but very simple way to connect a new car radio. You are cutting the wires from the plug of your car radio or from the car wiring. Next, using electrical tape, connect the wires in accordance with the color pinout on the reel. The disadvantages of this method are that it is not entirely aesthetic. In addition, electrical tape is not a very reliable fixation for winter cold, as a result of which a short circuit may occur.

The use of heat-shrinkable tubing or clamp terminals in this case can protect against problems.

However, if you still work hard and install ISO contacts, it will pay off in the absence of “headaches” during subsequent car radio changes.

You will only need to pull out the old car radio, switch the plug from it to the new one and install the new car radio in the niche.

Types of format according to the size of radio tape recorders

According to the size format, car radios are divided into two types: single-block and double-block. Since the international standard defines their designations as 1DIN and 2DIN, they are also called single-din and double-din. European car manufacturers mainly produce cars with niches for single-block car radios. Manufacturers from Korea, America and Japan specialize in two-block niches. These niches are 2 times larger than single-block ones. Two-unit car radios have a clear advantage in terms of multimedia functions. In this regard, the demand for them is constantly growing. Unfortunately, not everyone can install a two-unit car radio on their car, because... defines the corresponding type.

Basics of connecting a radio

So, the source of electricity is the battery. At the same time, it is also a source of danger for the radio and speakers. Under no circumstances should its plus be allowed to touch the minus of the car radio or any speaker terminal. In this case, it is recommended to power both the plus and minus from the battery. Often, car enthusiasts neglect this rule by using power from the cigarette lighter or ignition switch. Yes, this is probably easier, but... In the first case, we give the speakers the absence of interference and interference, as well as the ability to drive at full power.

The wire for connecting the plus requires a stranded copper wire with a cross-section of 4 m² or more.

It should be as short in length as possible. A fuse must be installed. It should have a face value of 10-20. And good insulation. It is installed at a distance of forty or more centimeters from the battery terminal. Sometimes the fuse is already installed by the manufacturer. The “—” wire should also be as short as possible.

The wires are laid carefully, avoiding twisting, at the greatest possible distance from other consumers. They are connected to the car radio after the speakers are connected. Do not allow the exposed positive battery cable to touch anything. It must be insulated until the last moment, when all that remains is to power the car radio with plus.

Connecting speakers

A very important point is the installation diagram of the car radio and the correct connection of the speakers according to the phases. The speaker terminals are marked, so you can easily figure out where the plus is and where the minus is. Usually the wide terminal is positive, the narrow terminal is negative.

It happens that cars of previous years have speakers that do not have terminals with markings. Then to determine the poles you need a regular battery. Connect its “+” and “-” to the speaker terminals. If the phasing is correct, the diffuser will move outward, and if it is incorrect, it will move inward.

Incorrect speaker phasing causes a loss of 80 percent of sound quality.

It can also lead to damage first to the speaker, and then to the car radio itself. If installed incorrectly, this is the most common mistake. It would seem that all the speakers are functioning, but there is no power or quality.

Let’s say that you don’t even have a battery on hand to check the phasing. Then, turning on the radio, output the sound, say, to the front left speaker, turn up the volume almost until hoarse, and then distribute it equally to both (i.e., set the balance to zero). If the sound power and low frequencies have undoubtedly increased, then the phasing is correct. Otherwise, you need to change the polarity on one (!) of the speakers. The same actions must be performed with the rear pair of speakers, as well as with the side pairs (rear left - front left and rear right - front right).

When, after making balance adjustments, the difference in sound is not noticeable, then do not suffer, leaving it as it is. Apparently, your hearing doesn’t really need this correctness.

Selection of wiring

The speaker wires from the car radio also have their own markings. As a rule, there are two or four pairs of them. A solid color without a black stripe is a plus. The same color, only with a black stripe - this is a minus.

A solid color is connected to the wide speaker terminal, a black stripe is connected to the narrow terminal.

The disadvantage for a pair of front or side speakers in an acoustic system up to 20 W can be common. In systems with 30 watts per channel or more, each channel has its plus and minus. It is prohibited to confuse them or swap them. It is also impossible to ground the speaker by connecting the minus to the car body. This will cause sound distortion, and the power cannot be increased beyond 30 percent. In low-power radios that have manual radio tuning, there may be 2 or four colored wires (acoustic with a plus) and not a single pair with a black stripe (negative). In this case, the “minus” for all speakers is connected to the main negative wire of the car radio (black), which, in turn, must be routed to the car body. (And even preferably on the negative terminal of the battery).

Almost all speaker systems are equipped with connecting wires. But these are not installation wires, but test wires. They are included so that you have something to check the speakers upon purchase, and not for use in a car. Their cross-section, as a rule, does not exceed 0.25 - 0.5 m²m. It is too small to pass the power supplied by the car radio to the speakers without any losses. These wires can be used only when the power of the installed speaker is no more than 15-20 W, and its diameter is 10-13 cm, that is, for auxiliary acoustics.

For main 40-100 W speakers with a diameter of 16 cm or more, special speaker wires are required. These are oxygen-free copper wires, directional. Their cross-section is from 1 to 4 m², depending on the power of the radio and its speakers.

For perfect sound, even the direction of the coil of the copper bundle is of great importance.

In addition to the text, which is written on transparent insulation, arrows on such wires also indicate the correct direction to the speaker from the car radio.

Insulation requirements

The wires must have a good insulating layer, preferably silicone (the silicone layer does not burst in the cold). They also need to have a cross-section corresponding to the power. They need to be placed correctly around the cabin (not near the power wires of other consumers). It is necessary to prevent them from twisting (they have absolutely no need for extra length). They must be laid closed throughout the cabin.

The wires should not fray. They must not be easily touched by feet or come into contact with cargo in the trunk. In a door from its post, they need to be pulled through a hard cambric so that the hinge (of a fairly large diameter) moves in the body behind the door post (not in the door itself), and certainly not between the post and the door.

Speaker placement

Let's say for the rear main acoustics, oval speakers (16x23 cm) were purchased. Then, before installing the car radio and connecting it, so that the short axis of the loudspeaker is directed diagonally across the cabin (that is, the rear left one is towards the passenger, the left one is towards the driver). Do not cover speakers in the trunk with boxes or crates. They must “breathe” freely, and in a fairly large volume.

It is better to place tweeters (or tweeters) on the windshield pillars. The further you are from the low frequencies, the brighter the quad effect. Direct the sound from the driver's tweeter to the passenger, and from the passenger tweeter to the driver.

Video - installing a new radio

Conclusion!

Two-component systems are increasingly becoming fashionable. It is better to place their woofers not in the panel, but in the rear shelves or doors. And tweeters need to be placed further and in front. Tweeters sold separately, which do not require crossovers, can be paralleled with front or rear speakers, as they say, to taste. They have different powers - from a subtle squeak to real support for the entire spectrum of mid-high frequencies. Other speakers cannot be connected in parallel. If you really can’t bear to plug in a couple more, then install them in series with the existing ones.

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