Mitsubishi 

How to change butter in a loaf. We change the oil on the UAZ loaf ourselves. Changing the engine oil of various UAZ models

The technical regulations of the UAZ Hunter model require replacing engine oil in gasoline and diesel engines every 15,000 km or once a year, whichever comes first. Moreover, an oil change at 2500 km, after the so-called “break-in”, is considered a mandatory procedure. In severe operating conditions, such as short trips, very frequent engine starts and very bad road conditions (dust, dirt, sand), oil changes are required at shorter intervals.

In a UAZ Hunter diesel engine, it is better to change the oil every 10 thousand km, or even better - every 8. The thing is that diesel fuel in Russia, to put it mildly, is not very good, because of this, engine oil quickly becomes unusable. And with more frequent oil changes, your engine will only thank you and be cleaner. In addition, when changing the oil, it is necessary to immediately change the oil filter, as well as the air and fuel filters (if possible), since they do not cost that much money, but they significantly affect the formation of the correct fuel-air mixture.

Viscosity

For gasoline engines, all-season motor oils with viscosity grades are recommended: 0W-40, 5W-40, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-40. For a 2.2-liter diesel unit, oil with a viscosity of 10W-40 is suitable. For those who are not well versed in notation, the first number indicates the “cold” viscosity, and the second, respectively, the “hot” viscosity (the higher this number, the thicker the oil at engine operating temperature). This is the so-called SAE viscosity. For example, 0W means that the oil is able to maintain acceptable fluidity down to a temperature of -35 degrees Celsius.

Please note that 0W-40 and 20W-40 oils, although they have the same “hot” viscosity designation (the second digit after W), however, in the first case the oil can operate at temperatures from -35 to 0 degrees, and in the second - from 0 to +35. The fact is that winter oil is always thinner in consistency than all-season or summer oil, therefore at high temperatures the oil film at the junction of the piston to the cylinder is too thin, as a result, severe scuffing is possible both on the piston skirts and in the cylinders themselves .

The picture (click to enlarge) shows a canister of Lukoil “Super” oil with a viscosity of 10W–40. This oil is suitable for both gasoline and diesel engines - as evidenced by the inscription on the canister “SG/CD”.

Ash content

This parameter determines the amount of metal-containing additives, in other words, the amount of ash that remains after complete burning (evaporation) of the oil. Oils are full ash - with a full package of additives, this is indicated on the canister as Full Saps, or according to the ACEA classification: A1, B1; A3,B3; A3, B4; A5, B5.

Medium ash oils (reduced additive package) are designated on the canister as MID SAPS, or according to ACEA: C2/C3. Low-ash oils have an even smaller additive package; they are designated as Low SAPS or ACEA C1/C4.

Why is ash content reduced? High sulphate ash content is not allowed in most modern cars due to European exhaust emission standards. Such oils are less likely to clog particulate filters and catalysts, and are also less likely to deposit on pistons and rings.

The UAZ Hunter uses engines that are simple in design, so you can safely use medium-ash and even full-ash oils if you don’t want to overpay.

Replacement procedure

Before starting the oil change procedure, you need to decide what type of oil you will pour into your engine. If the engine was previously filled with mineral water, under no circumstances should you fill in synthetic motor oil without first flushing the engine. The opposite is also true; when switching from synthetic oil to mineral oil, it is also necessary to flush the engine, since these oils are not compatible with each other.

An unpredictable reaction may occur, as a result of which flakes may form in the engine lubrication system, which consists of many small-diameter passages, which will clog the oil passages and cause the engine to seize. But semi-synthetic oil is equally compatible with both mineral water and synthetics, so in this case you can do without flushing the engine.

Many car enthusiasts do not trust flushes, especially the so-called “five-minute” flushes (when a special liquid is poured into the old oil for 5 minutes of engine operation, then it is all drained), since it is impossible to completely drain the flushing fluid; any part of it will remain in one way or another in the engine and will degrade the lubricating properties of the new oil.

Therefore, you need to treat flushes with special caution, use them only when it is really necessary - when changing types of oils, or if you bought a car second-hand and you don’t know what kind of oil is poured into it. To replace, you will need: new engine oil and filter, a clean rag, a container for drained oil with a capacity of 5 liters, a 17mm wrench, a screwdriver (or a special wrench for unscrewing the oil filter).

So, what needs to be done in order to change the oil in the UAZ Hunter engine:

  1. Place the car on a viewing hole, lift or overpass. If the engine is cold, it is necessary to warm it up to operating temperature.
  2. Unscrew the oil filler cap and remove the engine protection (or splash guard).
  3. Clean the oil drain bolt (at the bottom of the crankcase) with a wire brush or rag.
  4. Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the oil drain bolt, after placing a container under this place. To drain the oil faster, you can turn the starter a little (but do not start).
  5. Unscrew the oil filter, but do not turn it over when removing it from the car, it contains some oil. If the filter is stuck and cannot be unscrewed, use a screwdriver. It is necessary to pierce the filter as close to its bottom as possible, thereby making a lever.
  6. Install the new filter, after adding some oil to it, be sure to lubricate the filter O-ring with oil and tighten it by hand as tightly as you can.
  7. Screw the drain bolt back into the engine crankcase, only then can you fill in new oil.
  8. Fill with new oil.

How much to fill depends on the engine size. The 2.7 UAZ petrol engine is filled with 7 liters of motor oil. An engine with a volume of 2.9 - 5.8 liters of oil. In a 2.2 diesel unit there should be 5.5 liters of oil when changing.

Do not throw away waste and do not mix it with household waste, as this will cause irreparable damage to the environment, such as groundwater pollution and more...

If you constantly add oil to the engine, most likely the piston rings or oil seals are no longer the same as when they came from the factory (worn out), as a result of which oil enters the combustion chamber and its level gradually decreases. But, any engine one way or another “eats” oil during operation within acceptable limits.

For the ZMZ-409 engine, oil consumption of up to 100 g/1000 km is considered the norm. This indicator may vary slightly, depending on the type of oil being poured. ZMZ-409 holds only 7 liters of oil, however, when replacing it is better to pour 6 liters, since it will not be possible to drain everything at once.

I filled it with Liqui Moly 15W40 MoS2. "The feeling was atypical." The behavior of the engine at high speeds has sharply improved - it goes uphill in 4th where 3rd was previously required. The oil looks like a “medium-heavy oil” - dark gray with a suspension. If it weren’t for all the seals, stamps, and manufacturer’s caps, I would never have filled it up.

I fill it with Italian mineral Agip or something like that. I chose it because it does not lose viscosity for a long time and has low leakage and combustion in the engine. I use winter 10W40 all year round, no complaints. For 8 thousand km there are no complaints (during this distance I added about 1 liter). Costs about $12 for 4 liters. BUY ONLY NATIVE!!! (whatever oil you choose)
It is not advisable to pour synthetics into UAZ engines; the engines are not really designed for this.

Personally, I use Spectrol 20w50 in the summer.

Lew Mobile 5W50. Wonderful in winter and summer. But synthetics can only be used in engines with a new flywheel seal (not a stuffed one). You should buy only from branded dealers. [Chief]

Lil Lukoil, I didn’t like it, it “liquefies” quickly. Switched to Shell mineral water. All symptoms of “liquefaction” disappeared.

Previously, before the capital, I poured everything that didn’t end up there (only motor parts). Now only Shell (red is cheaper).

SHELL 10W40 is what you need! Only the real thing! I use it all year round only in extreme modes: competitions, traveling to the north. I recently did engine maintenance - as in the advertisement: “And then we disassembled the engine...!?!” I recommend!

I won’t seem original if I call oil with a viscosity of 10W40 the best choice. For both summer and winter. Semi-synthetic or mineral water depends on the desire to spend money. Any real mineral water from well-known manufacturers other than ours 100% meets the oil quality requirements of our engines. Synetics will leak heavily from all the cracks, you will go broke. Lukoil seems to be a normal replacement for M8, but nothing more. What the Bolshevik hand touched requires careful handling. There they will save something, rationalize it and then suffer. They are made at different factories, you also need to delve into this (which factory is the best oil), some cans have seals, others don’t. This, of course, is not a foreign car; it forgives a lot, and there are no hydraulic compensators, but why tempt fate. So mineral water or semi-synthetic Lukoil, but not Kamazovskoe.

My UAZ has already run 70,000 km and I have never seen such semi-synthetic excesses. No, I am by no means an opponent of good oils - I just don’t dare pour expensive oil when I constantly have to top it up. Although I didn’t notice any significant wear on Lukoil either. Two years ago I treated it with an additive and since then the compression has been the same in all cylinders, the engine does not smoke.

Although ZR recommends replacement after 5000 km for Volga engines, this is most likely an echo of the “hit on the left” of the early 90s. Really good 15W40 runs 10,000 km in an UAZ - and that’s not the limit. The last replacement (4500 mileage in winter) was even slightly disappointing - the engine was clean, there was no sludge, the flushing was darkened, but transparent.
I don’t understand how the bourgeoisie give 30,000 before replacing for highly accelerated engines, but on our “steam locomotives” - take it out and put it in 5000. I now change the oil only in connection with the season - it will last another 6000 without problems.
. P.S. In general, the frequency of replacement depends on the category of use; you need to know yours.

In our locomotives, the oil suffers most from oxidation and contamination by combustion products. This is due to the design of the piston group. So if the engine does not consume oil, the oil remains light and the engine is clean, then you can wait to replace it. And if the oil is eaten up (and does not flow out), then the oil usually becomes dirty and oxidized very quickly, and at the same time clogs the filter. In this case, it is better to use cheap oil, but change it several times more often.
By the way, the bourgeoisie recommend changing the oil twice as often during constant use in the city.

When changing the oil, I buy two 10 liter levels. And only domestic, because I think that the same expensive varieties are bottled from the same barrel, and especially since I have an UAZ, not a gelding, and I have no desire to shell out my salary for the service. When buying, I give the deciding factor to the API index; as a rule, I take no lower than SF; Ryazan 6 has proven itself well. Along with the oil, I also change the filter (a regular one for 40-50 rubles). The double reserve is because if, when topping up, you fill in the same grade, but produced not only by another plant, but also in a different shift, then there is a risk of running into complete incompatibility of oils, and, as a result, a significant deterioration in its properties. I use it before either:
1. Run out of topping up (within reasonable limits, I don’t take emergency situations when a leak is detected).
2. The properties of the oil (dark soot color) will significantly (in appearance) deteriorate.
3. A noticeable drop in pressure at idle has begun (i.e. the oil filter has a long life).
As a rule, one thing, but more often the filter, occurs after 7500-8000 km. Result: after 40 thousand km, the engine was disassembled due to need, the liner burst (see below “the engine was covered”). Everything related to the operation of the oil did not cause any complaints. A friend has a Volga engine. With such service, it has already passed 250 thousand. It has never been disassembled, repaired, no complaints.
Advice: you can use cheaper oil, but you will need to change it more often. (Damn, the slogan turned out to be for the glory of the domestic manufacturer).

I don’t know how to do it correctly, this is how I do it, on all cars and at all times of the year: I park the car after a long trip, check the oil level after five minutes (I like to smoke and drink beer before going home), then check it in the morning. I add the average value.

I have ELF 20X50, so it will only show the normal level in the morning, no matter how long you wait... Everything that is written is good, but the oils are all different. So, check the level in the morning and you won’t go wrong. When changing oil, I usually fill in four liters at once, and in the morning I check the level and top up.

I soldered a small piece (strip) of copper onto the end of the dipstick. This piece of copper serves as an indicator - it is time to change the oil when the piece darkens due to the presence of oxidation products in the oil.

It is necessary to mix equal parts of M8G1 oil and spindle AU, or the same M8G1 and diesel fuel (or kerosene) in a 2:1 ratio.

Mineral oil leaves a residue in the engine passages. Moreover, it always remains (the properties of the oil are the same) and in large quantities. This does not depend on the brand of oil. At least M8 Korolevskoye, at least some imported one. So rinse after mineral water. I myself washed it after Lukoil M8 with a spindle (industrial oil) 2-3 times for about 10 minutes. After synthetics, there is no sediment left. Only if soot from the cylinders does not get into the oil through the rings or valves. But you say your engine is new, which means it shouldn’t. If you change the brand of oil, then look at the manual, such oils are recommended, and select them with the same markings for viscosity and fluidity. Otherwise it might turn out to be bullshit. And it will be necessary to flush the engine.

And heating the engine is when you heat it up much higher than operating temperature. This happens due to the loss of coolant (the drain valve was not completely closed, some pipe was not tight, etc.) or due to a thermostat that did not open. But you yourself must remember whether it boiled somewhere. And if someone boiled this engine without you, and you don’t know, then look at the oil. Heat the engine to 80 and pour 100-200 grams of oil into a glass, for example. Mineral oil will look like water (in terms of fluidity - shake the container) and smell like burnt fuel oil. And synthetics, when rolled out in your fingers, will slowly roll off the skin so that your fingers become normal, not slippery. Unboiled synthetics can only be washed off your hands with gasoline. So, after warming up the engine, it should be washed anyway, regardless of the brand of oil.

For 2.4 L engine:
The oil pressure in the lubrication system of a warm engine at low crankshaft speed (600 rpm) at idle speed with the oil radiator valve open must be at least 0.4 kgf/cm2; on an unheated engine, the pressure can reach 4.5 - 5.0 kgf/cm2; at a vehicle speed of 45 km/h, the pressure should be 2.0 - 4.0 kgf/cm2, and in hot summer weather at least 1.5 kgf/cm2.
Pressure in the lubrication system less than the specified values ​​indicates a malfunction in the engine. In this case, engine operation must be stopped until the malfunction is eliminated... The emergency oil pressure sensor is triggered when the pressure in the system drops to 0.4 - 0.8 kgf/cm2.

Opinions "Against"

If you are not going to cross the Sahara with a cannon on a trailer using military-standard oil, you need to throw it away along with the tap and plug the holes (under no circumstances connect directly!!!). I couldn’t find the standard plugs - the “corners” and wheel bolts 2108 helped.

I completely agree about the military oil. But under normal conditions there is no use from the radiator, but there is some harm. I'll try to explain. This is the situation. The heat is over 30, there is dirt and tight driving at minimum engine speeds. Even with good oil, the pressure with the tap open is not enough (on the goat there is still back and forth, but on the loaf the light sometimes blinks). On the other hand, good oil behaves normally in much “warmer” engines, and not just in UAZkin. This summer I just took the risk of trying to crawl through a swamp in the heat with the tap closed - I liked the performance of the engine - there was greater stability at the bottom (at idle and below, when the speed drops to the point where it’s about to stall). Since then I haven’t opened the faucet again and I don’t intend to in the future.
P.S. As for the amount of heat that escapes through the oil radiator, it seemed to me to be completely insignificant (in the summer). Heating in the most severe case is approximately +2 degrees.

On new engines, it greatly reduces the oil pressure (when opening) and its meaning is lost. Instead, you can screw spark plugs into the block (do not put on high-voltage wires! :)

I just bought a UAZ and on the way to fishing, purely by chance, I found this same radiator under the hood. Its faucet was closed (apparently right at the factory). Since it was +35 outside, I decided that extra. cooling would not hurt, and opened the faucet. Fuck it right there. X. The oil pressure dropped until the warning light blinked, although before that it was 3 atm. I checked the oil level - everything is fine. I turned off the faucet and forgot about it.

The UAZ is a purely utilitarian vehicle, built according to army technical specifications, and a very long time ago. The motor oils specified for UAZ according to the “Charter” do not withstand long-term “pull” driving on harsh roads. Therefore, an oil cooler is an absolutely necessary thing in conditions of round-the-clock driving on a regular tank training ground! If you pour Shell Helix red, you can throw out the oil cooler right away.

With my automotive background, I don't see the point in keeping the oil cooler. Previously, when low-quality lubricants were used (SE and even earlier), it was needed. Now there is no. In taxi companies, this part was already removed and thrown away 10 years ago. Some Volgov engines ran for 300,000 km without repair. You just need to pour good, modern oil, no worse than SF, preferably SG. This radiator, by the way, like the blinds, creates considerable difficulties for the air flow in front of the main cooling radiator.

The oil cooler is removed, its connection holes are plugged using wheel bolts 2108 and compressor corners from ZIL-130.

Opinions "For"

According to the instructions, the oil cooler is turned on when the air temperature is above +20 Celsius or when driving with a heavy load under other conditions. If it annoys you, turn it off. There is a faucet for this. What I encountered on my handsome car was the most unpleasant drops of oil in the places where the hoses were connected to the radiator. This can be treated by replacing the clamps. If the oil cooler could be removed permanently, it would have been removed at the factory right away.

I think that an oil cooler is necessary... If the engine is in normal condition, then the oil pressure with the oil cooler turned on at a speed of 60 is about 3 - 3.5, which is close to ideal, and the oil is cooled, better cooling the engine parts... If there is not enough pressure, then you need to fight wear, and not provoke it by removing the oil cooler. I anticipate the question about the oil - I have SHELL 10W40 in it. Look at any foreign car with an engine capacity of more than two liters.

When the Ministry of Defense of the USSR...with some participation of Ulyanovsk designers, was developing and later fine-tuning the UAZ-469 command vehicle, then naturally the car was tried in various environments: on land, in water, in the air, in the mountains, cold, etc.
Thus, everything in the car is verified to the smallest detail. Under any conditions, the UAZ must take the battalion commander out from the front line (or bring him). Until recently, I looked at the oil cooler without much interest. I didn’t want to throw it away, but I didn’t see much benefit either. So, I thought, if something happens to the car, in the sense of the water cooling system not working, it will come in handy. Moreover, the efficiency of the oil cooler is generally not bad. Last summer, crawling through the mountains of the Black Sea Caucasus (note, in the mountains, not on mountain roads!) with a decent load, at the first low load, when the UAZ was already losing traction due to the large angle of ascent, the engine temperature inexorably crept up. The emergency lamp winked slyly, clearly hinting at something. And then I remembered him. At the nearest site, I opened the oil radiator valve. After this, within five minutes, with a further rise, the temperature returned to normal and no longer caused trouble. At the end of the “climbing”, the tap was closed (in the closed position it does not “leap off”).

To prevent the faucet from leaking, you need to disassemble it. There will be 2 rubber seals, under them, between them and on top of them you need to stuff heat-resistant sealant. I did this and the faucet does not leak. At the same time, it would be a good idea to coat the threaded connections with sealant.

I remember there is a dual-circuit oil purification system. The oil flow from the pump is divided into two parts. The main flow enters the coarse filter, and then into the engine oil line. The excess goes to a fine cardboard filter (with a LOT of resistance - what I mean is that you can’t install something like a Zhiguli filter instead) and then flows back into the oil pan. For such cleaning systems, it is recommended to use autol, since oil for modern engines will not be cleaned with a coarse filter. If you want to fill in something better than Autol, you should convert the oil purification system to a full-flow one (for example, an oil filter from a VAZ installed on an adapter instead of a coarse filter).

This is a malfunction of the oil pump pressure reducing valve or oil filter. The oil pressure should be within 5-5.5 atm.

The engine pre-assembly lasted for a whole week... The ceremonial moment of launch had arrived. The result exceeded all expectations: the pressure on a warm engine, with semi-synthetic at idle - 0.5 (the light is on!) and generally does not rise above 1. To be completely sure, we measured it with a mechanical sensor. All that was left was to drink out of grief.

The next morning, I thought about what this meant. I really didn’t like the version that everything escapes through the camshaft. I took a book from Mercedes and looked at what clearances should be in the oil pump. It turned out that in addition to the gaps between the gears (0.2), gears and housing (0.15), the main requirement is the axial movement of the gears (tolerance 0.05). I remembered that in UAZ cars there is usually a play that is noticeable by hand.

In search of a “normal pump”, we visited 5 stores and tried about 20 pumps, and so - ALL G... Without much enthusiasm, but very conscientiously, the pump was somehow brought up to “Mercedes standards”. I look and don’t believe it - at idle it’s 2, I slightly touched the pedal - 4.

A drop in performance with increasing end clearance is a feature of all gear pumps. There is one more nasty thing from a large gap - the pump at low and medium speeds cannot suck oil from the sump if it itself is empty.

The thickness of the gasket in the pump and the axial clearance in the gears are two big differences. Usually, during assembly, the protrusion of the gears above the housing is first measured, and then a gasket of known thickness is installed. Ensuring this clearance is one of the most difficult tasks in manufacturing. There are special sealants that, when assembled without a gasket, provide a tight seal and do not change the gap; In some pumps, a groove is made around the perimeter and an O-ring is placed there. And about the sealant in the Instructions (“at the same time, the use of various types of sealants, paint, etc. is PROHIBITED”) everything is correct: for tightness there is enough gasket, and the sealant greatly affects the overall thickness of the gasket.

After rebuilding the engine in MADI-Motor, I don’t like the oil pressure - on an engine warmed up to 85 degrees at a speed of 2000-2400 (60-70 km/h) the pressure is a little more than 2:-(.
According to the ABC book, it should be at least 3.5! Suspicions fell on the oil pump. In stock were the “original” one, which had passed 55 thousand, and a new one, recently purchased in a store in Mitino (for 450 rubles).
Having dismantled the “native” one, I felt proud of the ingenuity of the factory workers. The fact is that the “plane” of the gear chamber connector was not flat at all, but had a clear slope to the side. In this case, one gear protruded above the “plane”, and the other was “recessed”. The “inventors” did not engage in wastefulness, and simply placed half of the gasket on the “low” side - like “raising” the plane! True, apparently they did it by eye, because... on the pressure cover this “slope” is still clearly visible in the form of uneven gear tracks. The gap* between the gear teeth was 0.7 mm, the gap between the wall and the gear was 0.3 mm. Perhaps this is a consequence of wear, but the pump tested in a store on Krasnodonskaya gave the same sad picture of the gaps (though the price was 280 rubles).
The pump purchased in Mitino had an OTK stamp and was pleased with the gaps - 0.2 between the gears and 0.1 between the gear and the wall. However, half of the gasket was also present here, although the plane of the connector was quite flat! However, there was a fly in the ointment - the end of the gear had irregularities, which, for normal rotation of the gears, required increased clearance. After removing these defects (I did this - I put sandpaper between the gaskets and the cover and, tightening the bolts evenly with a drill, at low speed, “brought out” the ends of the gears until they touched evenly), and assembling the pump (obviously I selected the number of gaskets), a “blowing” of air began to be felt when rotating the pump by hand, and after lubricating it with oil, a finger applied to the inlet of the pump is gently sucked inside. Of course, this has never happened before. All that remains is to install the pump on the engine.

* - The gap is measured between two gears, i.e. The feeler gauge is inserted between the teeth, whichever fits in is the gap. The point is what minimum, non-selectable gap between two gears does this oil pump have when pushing oil. (October 2003)

It is advisable to use a valve spring remover (with a rocker arm), a tin rod 20-25 cm long, a 150-gauge nail (I used it to remove the 8th cap, bending it in the form of a bracket and hooking it behind the ear to lift the engine). You turn out the candles. Place cylinder 1 at TDC and slide a rod under the valve. You dry it out (be careful not to let the crackers fly), pull off the old cap, lightly lubricate the new one with oil, and firmly put it in place with your hand until it stops. You assemble the valve and move on to the next one.

Looking at the recently purchased Goetze caps yesterday, I noticed that the label and the “aquarium” itself were glued on by hand. Feeling sad, I started digging on the Internet and this is what I found.
Firstly, SM caps do not seem to be produced in Germany, but are produced in Turkey and Poland. The quality is appropriate (this indirectly answered a silent question in the eyes of one friend, who, having removed the valve after 10 thousand, discovered the oak SM cap).
Secondly, on genuine Goetze it should be written on each cap:
- country of origin - GER
- manufacturer - GOE
- European certificate - E..
- the number of the punch that made this cap is 9999 (In theory, they should be different on all caps - production is not done on the same machine! By the way, this was actually confirmed - on all the caps, the four numbers of the punches were different.)
Of course, everything is written clearly and clearly. The material of the cap obviously needs recycled rubber (and not raw rubber or plastic), and as you know, it comes in brown tones. The rubber itself is quite hard, and it’s not easy to flatten the seal. The box should contain two plastic mandrels to prevent the crackers from biting on the chamfer.
The box itself is a cardboard with a plastic “aquarium”. The “people” on the cardboard are not dragging the letter “O”, but an “o” in the center of the “O”. Well, the inscription itself - the letter "G" is quite "bold", without a clear stick on the lower right.

If you take the original Zhiguli filters, then their valve opens at higher pressure, which simply means a “dry start” of the engine, and you only need to take those nondescript ugly ones that are written for UAZ and a number of other brands.
The opening of this valve is different for different filter models, and if it does not open at the pressure required by our engine, then oil starvation occurs (the previous oil was glass after stopping the engine and the new one has not yet arrived because the filter does not allow thick oil in sufficient quantities, resulting in dry friction , the temperature in the contact zone instantly increases, but there is still no oil, and the engine has already grabbed and started, and not at idle speed 600-800, but at 1500-2000, and so on until the light goes out) the UAZ engine is low-speed compared to the engine. Accordingly, the gears of the oil pump spin slower and cannot immediately create the necessary pressure and the additional resistance that the filter creates aggravates the situation, but... if it is opened ahead of time, the oil pump will not be able to create pressure to push thick oil to the crankshaft journals. The valve opening pressure is directly related to the design of the engine and its speed. Since in Zhiguli engines such processes must occur at high speeds, the opening pressure must be higher, but a different oil is required, i.e. containing extreme pressure additives. Moreover, it should be noted that this process is not fleeting, but is extended over time, which is called warming up the engine. The check valve simply keeps the oil from flowing into the crankcase.

Was. The reason turned out to be that there was a leak through the axis of the fuel pump lever. The axis goes right through the fuel pump housing. At the factory, the outside end of the axle was smeared with something like epoxy, it crumbled and flew out. And the oil slowly leaked out.
I sealed the outside with sealant. So far (a month) everything is holding up and clean. There's a little bit left, but it looks like it's already from under the gasket. Apparently it will also have to be sealed.

I set out to install an oil cooler valve on a UAZ. By the way, such a valve is installed on GAZ products and is designed to turn off the oil cooler when the pressure in the system drops to 0.7-0.9 kgf/cm2. To install the above valve, an adapter fitting was made (with tapered threads in both directions), since the threads on the faucet and the valve do not match. The installation process took no more than 10 minutes. We unscrew the oil cooler tap and install the valve in its place through the adapter. It is not possible to install the faucet after the valve vertically upward (as on the Volga), the generator is in the way. Therefore, we mount it “G” figuratively towards the radiator. In this position, the entire structure is harmoniously placed in the allotted space and does not interfere with adjusting the tension of the generator belt. The supply hose is also long enough. The system works as expected, the pressure in the system with the oil cooler turned on remains more stable throughout the entire journey and does not decrease at idle to less than 1.2 kgf/cm2 (at 90 km/h about 3 kgf/cm2). In fact, when the oil cooler is turned on, the pressure in the system in all engine operating modes drops proportionally by about 1 kgf/cm2.

Twist off the oil filter, turn the engine

We went through this during a scheduled oil change. You start the engine. - and the pressure is at zero, the lamp is on. A...a...a. Everything is gone (c). ...We unscrewed the filter, turned the starter, and oil began to flow out of the hole. We screwed on the filter and started the engine. Oppa! That's the pressure. Since then, before starting the engine, I always unscrew the filter and wait for the oil to flow from under it.

The essence of the phenomenon is that the oil filter, being dried, does not allow the pump to work - an air lock.

For many years since the purchase, I poured oil into the UAZ M8V engine and somehow everything seemed to be fine, but in recent years the quality of this oil has become, to put it bluntly, very poor. Of course, we would need to switch to something else, but there were leaks in some places, and since we had to constantly top up, we didn’t want to take the expensive option.

But after a major overhaul and elimination of all the problems, the question again arose of what kind of oil to pour into the UAZ engine. For some reason, the stores did not have the brands of oils listed in the repair and operation book. Having looked at the characteristics of these lubricants on the Internet, I selected the analogue 10W-40 that was closest in parameters to M8B oil.

Some parameters are even better, such as viscosity.

One of the main parameters for selecting engine oil is the compression ratio in the cylinders; 10W-40 fully meets this requirement. The table shows the technical characteristics:

When I started using this oil, I noticed that the pressure in the engine increased by half an atmosphere, and most importantly, the engine became quieter when running.

The oil pressure in the UAZ engine should be from 2 to 4 kgf/cm2 at a speed of 45 km/h, the maximum pressure can be up to 5 kgf/cm2. In hot weather it may be even lower, but all these indicators depend on the quality of the oil, the condition of the engine and pump. Starting the engine in winter is easier and it’s a nuisance to squeeze out the oil, which I wrote about in less.

System capacity

A fully filled engine lubrication system holds 5.8 liters. How much oil is poured into the UAZ engine depends on which filter is installed (large or small) and whether the oil cooler is connected. So to replace you need to buy 7 liters. 6 liters will fill up and one as a reserve.

Replacement

Oil changes in UAZ engines are carried out during seasonal maintenance or after 16,000 km. If only one oil was poured into the system and it is not very dirty, then flushing the engine is not necessary. Otherwise, you need to use flushing oil or purchase an additive that is added to the oil before draining.

It is also used in new injection vehicles such as the UAZ “Patriot”. Here is a table depending on the type of oil poured into the UAZ Patriot engine from the ambient temperature:

Oils for UAZ Patriot

Conclusion

To sum up the question of what kind of oil to pour into a UAZ engine, we can say that there are many options. However, you shouldn’t buy something cheap if you want the engine to serve you faithfully and for as long as possible. The performance can be further improved by using mineral oil of a higher price category, for example the “ZIC” brand for gasoline engines, the HIFLO category.

Today you can hear many different names for one of the oldest creations of the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant: “Loaf”, “Tablet”, “Loaf”. Their story began in 1965, when the first UAZ series rolled off the assembly line, and continues to this day. During this time, the model received updates several times, but even after decades of mass production, design changes never appeared in it. Utility Loaves were presented only with front-wheel drive and included a range of vehicles: carriage models, vans, trucks, minibuses and medical vehicles.

Over more than 50 years of production history, the model was equipped with different engines - UMZ and ZMZ with working volumes of 2.45, 2.7 and 2.9 liters. Since the 60s, 4-cylinder 2.45 liter units producing 74-76 hp have been operating under the hood. with a 4-speed manual transmission. A little later, the engine was replaced with a 2.9-liter engine with 84 and 86 hp. And the injection version with 99 hp is responsible for the operation of the car 22069. With each new engine, the Bukhanka became more economical and dynamic, which only fueled the interest of fans of the domestic automobile industry in it. You can find out what kind of oil and how much to pour into the listed engines further in the article.

Of course, when compared with modern imported cars of the same class, the Russian Bukhanka looks very modest and unusual. However, we should not forget that the initial purpose of the vehicle’s production was to conquer off-road conditions and satisfy the transport needs of the army. Accordingly, in the struggle between endurance, overload and external beauty, the winner was obvious. But the Bukhanka is well adapted to tuning and does not consume so much fuel: 8.4-11.5 liters per 100 km on the highway, depending on the load, and up to 14.5 liters in the urban cycle.

Generation 1 (1965 - present)

Engine UMZ 417 / 4175 / 4178 2.45 l. 72 and 90 hp

  • Oil types (by viscosity): 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-30, 15W-40, 20W-30, 20W-40
  • When to change oil: 10000

Engine ZMZ 409.10 / 4091.10 / 4092.10 / 4094.10 2.7 l. 112 hp

  • What kind of engine oil is filled from the factory (original): Synthetic 5W30
  • How many liters of engine oil (total volume): 7.0 liters.
  • Oil consumption per 1000 km: up to 100 ml.
  • When to change oil: 7000

Engine UMZ 421 / 4213 / 4215 / 4216 / 4218 2.9 l. 99 and 115 hp

  • What kind of engine oil is filled from the factory (original): Synthetic 5W30
  • Oil types (by viscosity): 5W-30, 5W-40, 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-40
  • How many liters of oil in the engine (total volume): 5.8 liters.
  • Oil consumption per 1000 km: up to 100 ml.
  • When to change oil: 10000