Toyota

Diagram of the VAZ 2106 contact group. Ignition switch in a VAZ car: purpose, design, functions, repair and replacement. Video “Features of connecting 3Z contacts”

The ignition switch in cars of the VAZ family fails from time to time due to weakening of the contact posts or burning of the contacts inside it. It also happens that the cams of a plastic roller are produced. You can disassemble the lock and clean it, but it’s better to just replace it with a new one, considering that it costs pennies compared to imported locks.

But if connecting the wires together did not result in the starter operating (or it did not turn on the first time), check the solenoid relay on the starter. The contact spots on it may also burn out, which will prevent the circuit from closing normally. Alternatively, you can use a screwdriver to short-circuit the two large terminals on the solenoid relay (before doing this, put the car in neutral and use the handbrake). When closed, the starter should begin to spin vigorously. If this happens, remove and change the solenoid relay. If the starter rotates “sluggishly” when it closes, you will have to remove it and check the condition of the brushes.

All operations are performed with your own hands, without the help of car service specialists. Moreover, the price of an ignition switch on a VAZ2106 is up to 100 rubles. To replace it, you will need to know the pinout of the wires coming from it, for which the site editors have prepared a large reference material.

The ignition switch is designed not only to start the engine - it performs several functions at once:

supplies voltage to the vehicle’s on-board network, closing the circuits of the ignition system, lighting, sound alarm, additional devices and instruments;
at the driver’s command, turns on the starter to start the power plant and turns it off;
turns off the power to the on-board circuit, preserving the battery charge;
protects the car from theft by fixing the steering shaft.

Pinout of the ignition switch VAZ-2101 - VAZ-2107

The ignition switch on these cars is located to the left of the steering column. It is fixed directly to it using two fixing bolts. The entire mechanism of the device, except for the upper part in which the keyhole is located, is hidden by a plastic casing.

On the visible part of the ignition switch housing, special marks are applied in a certain order, allowing inexperienced drivers to navigate the lock activation mode when the key is in the hole:

“” – a mark indicating that all systems, devices and instruments that can be turned on using the lock are turned off (this does not include the cigarette lighter, interior lighting, brake light, and in some cases the radio);
« I» – a label informing that the vehicle’s on-board network is powered from the battery. In this position, the key is fixed independently, and electricity is supplied to the ignition system, to the electric motors of the heater and windshield washer, instrumentation, headlights and light signaling;
« II» – engine start mark. It indicates that voltage is applied to the starter. The key does not lock in this position. If you release it, it will return to the "I" position. This is done so as not to subject the starter to unnecessary loads;
« III» – parking mark. If you remove the key from the ignition in this position, the steering column will be locked with a latch. You can unlock it only by inserting the key back and turning it to position “0” or “I”.

The ignition switch has five contacts and, accordingly, five terminals, which are responsible for supplying voltage to the desired unit. All of them are numbered for convenience. Each pin corresponds to a wire of a certain color:

“50” – output responsible for supplying current to the starter (red or purple wire);
“15” – terminal through which voltage is supplied to the ignition system, to the electric motors of the heater, washer, and instrument panel (double blue wire with a black stripe);
“30” and “30/1” – constant “plus” (pink and brown wires, respectively);
“INT” – external lighting and light signaling (double black wire).

Pinout of lock VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109, VAZ-21099

Pinout according to the old type

Pinout of the VAZ-2109 ignition switch with unloading relay:

comes +12V in position I, II, III (parking)
comes +12V in position III (parking)
position I, +12V goes out after turning on the ignition (contact 15/2), disappears at start (II);
position I, +12V goes away after turning on the ignition (pin 15), does not disappear when starting II;
comes +12V constantly.

New pinout type

Pinout of the new VAZ-2109 ignition switch:

comes +12V constantly
comes +12V constantly
+12V arrives after turning on the ignition (contact 15/2), disappears at start (II);
position I,
+12V arrives after turning on the ignition (pin 15), does not disappear when starting II;
+12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
comes +12V constantly.

Pinout of lock VAZ-2110, VAZ-2111, VAZ-2112

Pinout of the ignition switch VAZ-2110:

+12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
+12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
not used.

Pinout of lock VAZ-2113, VAZ-2114, VAZ-2115

Pinout of the ignition switch VAZ-2113, 2114, 2115:

comes +12V for the microphone of the sensor of the inserted key;
the mass comes when the driver's door is open;
+12V goes to the starter (pin 50);
+12V goes out after turning on the ignition (pin 15);
+12V goes out when the key is inserted to pin 5 of the BSK;
comes +12V to illuminate the lock cylinder;
+12V comes from the battery (pin 30);
not used.

Scheme of VAZ and car ignition switch

The structure of a car ignition switch

Locking rod
Frame
Roller
Contact disk
Contact sleeve
Block
Protrusion of the contact part.

The lock mechanism is connected to many wires. They continue from the battery, connecting all the electrical devices of the car into a single chain. When you turn the ignition key, the electrical circuit is closed from the “-” terminal of the battery to the ignition coil. As a result, the current passes through the wires to the ignition switch, through its contacts it is directed to the induction coil, after which it returns back to the “+” terminal. As electricity passes through the coil, it generates high voltage, which it transmits to the spark plug. Therefore, the key closes the contacts of the ignition circuit, thereby starting the car engine.

Replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ car

To carry out repair work to replace the ignition switch of a vase, we will need: a screwdriver, a tester and a thin awl. Once you have everything you need, you can begin the repair. On all classic VAZ cars, the ignition switch is located below, on the left of the steering column. To replace you need:

Disconnect battery
Remove the plastic casing by first unscrewing the screws that secure it.
Then unscrew the two screws securing the ignition switch to the bracket.
We insert the key and set it to position 0 to disable the anti-theft device.
Insert the awl into the hole in the bracket and press the latch. Then we take out the lock itself.
After removal, it is recommended to mark the contact wires so that nothing is mixed up the next time you connect.

Removing the ignition switch on a VAZ-2106 begins with disassembling the steering column casing. We unscrew the five bolts and remove its halves. Before you begin disassembling the electrical part of the lock, it is very useful to disconnect the battery by removing the negative terminal or unscrewing the switch bolt. After this, remove the spring retaining ring from the back of the lock body and remove the contact group. We move it to the side so that it does not interfere, and we begin to remove the lock itself.

It is attached to the steering shaft bracket with two bolts, after unscrewing which nothing happens. It is useless to try to remove the lock from its socket if you do not know about the special stopper. It is located on the lock body under the bracket. We press this stopper into the lock with a thin screwdriver through a small hole in the bracket. Further, according to all the instructions, the lock should be pulled out freely, but this does not work.

An obstacle that is not described anywhere is the anti-theft rod. Although it is in a “disconnected” state, it still clings to the steering shaft. To remove the lock, you have to manipulate the key. In different positions of the lock cylinder, the anti-theft device also moves and is recessed as much as possible when the key is in the “Starter” position. After a few minutes the lock can be pulled out of the bracket.

Here is the time to write that assembly of the unit should be carried out in the reverse order of removal. And in general, this will be true. First you need to insert the new lock into the bracket, recessing the latch and holding the key in the starter position, tighten the fastening bolts, then connect the wires. Particular attention must be paid to this, because an incorrectly connected contact group can damage the starter or ignition system. We reconnect the wires from the old group to the new one one at a time, checking the numbers on the contacts. After this, we assemble the steering column casing.

On the car, the ignition switch is located on the driver's side, mounted on the left side of the steering wheel on the steering gear bracket, under the instrument panel.

First of all, you need to get rid of the decorative casing of the steering shaft, unscrew the fastening screws and remove it. We performed similar actions when replacing the steering shaft.

After removing the decorative casing, unscrew the two screws securing the ignition switch to the body, then insert the key into the lock and turn on the “0” position, which turns off the anti-theft device. Through the hole in the bracket, press the lock lock with a thin awl and remove the ignition switch from the mounting socket. This completes the repair work to remove the ignition switch.

On VAZ 2108 and higher models, a package with wires is connected to the lock, that is, nothing needs to be marked and the possibility of mixing up the wires when installing a new switch is completely eliminated. Well, on VAZ 2107 and lower models, this is not the case, each wire is connected separately, so when removing each wire, it must be marked so as not to be confused during further installation.

To replace the contact group of the ignition switch, you need to use a thin screwdriver or an awl to pry the retaining ring from the edge and remove the contact part. When installing a new contact part, orient it so that terminals “15” and “30” are on the side of the locking rod.

At this point, the repair work is completed, install the new ignition switch in the reverse order of removal, connect the wires, transferring the markings from the old switch to the new one. The pinout or connection diagram of the VAZ ignition switch wires is quite simple and understandable, so every car enthusiast can carry out repairs or replace a spare part without the help of car service employees.

The mechanical-electric ignition switch of the VAZ 2106 is represented by a body part with a locking device, an anti-theft mechanism and an electrical contact group. The schematic diagram of the sixth generation VAZ ignition switch is located in the figure below and the marked symbols are numbered as follows:

Locking console.
Hull part.
Contacts disk.
Contact sleeve.
Block.
a – extensive cutout of the contact group.

To connect the ignition switch, you need to know its location in the cabin. This element of the system is located under the instrument panel on the steering column shaft bracket.

Replacing the ignition switch

An unscheduled replacement of the VAZ 2106 ignition switch is carried out when fatal faults are detected, such as dysfunction of the anti-theft complex or defects in the mechanical part of the product. The most convenient option for replacing the ignition switch is a complete reinstallation of this element of the system. However, the contact group must be replaced by removing the spring-loaded hoop-shaped stopper and installing the updated part. Also, regardless of other technological operations, the ignition switch cylinder is replaced, which is dismantled on the removed product.

To remove the ignition switch of a VAZ 2106, you need to prepare a set of locksmith tools, a tool with a thin round tip (awl) and a tester or multimeter. The procedure for dismantling and installing the ignition switch:

Remove the protective casing of the electrical wiring under the steering wheel, having first removed the mounting bracket.
Remove the ignition switch and disable the anti-theft function by placing the key in the “0” position.
Press the fixing element with a thin screwdriver through the technological opening in the fastener.
Remove the ignition switch from the mounting.
Mark with a felt-tip pen or, if the car enthusiast relies on his memory, memorize the order of connecting the wires to the outputs and contacts of the locking device.
Disconnect the wiring from the element.
Test the correct connection of the contact group for different positions of the ignition key using the ignition switch pinout located below.
The general circuit of the ignition switch is designed in such a way that the potential difference from the battery and the generator unit is supplied to connectors “30” and “30/1”. The “INT” output is intended for integrating an audio system or other gadgets.
When checking the functionality of the anti-theft mechanism, the locking console must move to extension if the ignition key is fixed in position “III” (parking position) and be removed from the locking device.
When the key position is changed to position “0”, the locking console “hides” in the opening of the body part. The ignition key must be removed exclusively in position “III”.
When replacing ignition switch contacts, it is necessary to lift the retaining ring with an awl or similar device through the technological opening and remove the group of contacts. When installing a contact group, it must be installed so that outputs “15” and “30” occupy a position from the locking console. This will allow the protrusion in the group of contacts to be aligned with the body groove of the ignition switch, which will ensure their unhindered interaction.
The group of contacts can be removed without removing the ignition switch, freeing the steering column from the protective cover. True, the installation of this element will be fraught with great difficulties.
Installation of the ignition switch is carried out in the opposite order.

There are malfunctions of the VAZ 2106 ignition switch that occur in the electrical part of the product. This is, as a rule, a burnout of a group of product contacts associated with an unstable electrical wiring connection. If the ignition switch is jammed, this is due to mechanical deformation of the key element.

Pinout of the ignition switch "six"

Shown here is the pinout of the VAZ 2106 ignition switch, which will help you correctly use the functionality of this element of the vehicle’s power system.

Numbering of position ZZ	Name of contacts products	Power system circuits involved
“0” – off.	30 and 30/1	Ignition system circuits are engaged in emergency mode
“I” – ignition		Stern and front light of the optical system, windshield wiper and washer element, heating component of the cooling system BSZ (on-board ignition system), initiation of the generator unit, instrument sensors of the control panel, sound and light signals of the turn signals
“II” – starter		Stern and front light optical system, windshield wiper and washer element, heating component of the vehicle cooling system Starter chain
“III” – parking position		Stern and front light of the optical system, windshield wiper and washer element, heating component of the cooling system

Using this pinout, you can easily carry out any routine repairs yourself.

Let's start with the fact that the ignition switch includes mechanical and electrical parts. The first is made in the body of the device, and the second part is made separately from the terminal block. In use, failures are associated equally with both parts of the ignition switch, with the terminal block accounting for a slightly higher percentage of failures.

Please note that any work on the electrical part must be carried out provided that the negative terminal is removed. This is especially important if you need to check the work of the consumer. Let's take a closer look at mechanical and electrical failures.

Mechanical part

Often, mechanical failure of the ignition switch is provoked by:

tight turning of the ignition key;
jamming in one of the positions. As a rule, such a problem leads to a broken ignition key, which, in turn, requires additional expenses for purchasing a new part.

Basically, these problems arise due to poor assembly of the ignition switch from unscrupulous manufacturers. So that the product does not have to be changed frequently, you need to install a reliable and durable part.

Electrical part

Even if the mechanical part of the ignition switch is fully operational, the terminal block still often fails. You can always replace it, since such a spare part is sold in any car store.

The terminal part often burns out itself or its contacts, which connect certain power supply circuits, burn out. It also happens that the central plastic insert melts, which opens and closes some contacts at different positions of the ignition key. This overheating is provoked by holding the key in the “starter” position for a long time, when the driver cannot start the engine of his vehicle for a long time.

In such cases, it is necessary to purchase a new terminal block, not an ignition switch.

It is very important that the connection remains unchanged. If you are replacing for the first time, you need to look at the bottom of the ignition switch and there draw the colors of the wire and the terminals to which they are connected. Each of them on the block has its own number, so it is very convenient to write down the wire color and terminal number so as not to confuse anything.

The ignition is necessary in order to start the car and lock the steering wheel. After prolonged use, this element or its group of contacts become unsuitable for further use, the car does not react in any way to turning the key, and the cylinder stops freely allowing the key into itself. Therefore, it becomes necessary to replace the lock in order to restore the functionality of the car.

locking rod;
body part;
roller with contact disk;
sleeve;
protrusion on contacts;
wide protrusion of the contact part.

The locking mechanism comes into contact with a large number of wires. They reach to the battery and connect automotive electrical appliances into a single chain. At the moment the key is turned, the electrical circuit is closed from the “negative” terminal of the battery, as determined by the connection diagram for the VAZ 2106 ignition switch that comes to the coil. If the key begins to turn poorly or jams, this means that the secret is broken. Experts recommend spraying VD-40 into the larva, but the effectiveness of this is low and rather short-lived.

Has the contact group burned out, after which you have difficulty starting the starter? Change the ignition switch.

The procedure for connecting wires to the ignition switch

Let's consider all stages of work one by one. First, remove the casing from the top and bottom of the steering column. Now, using a marker or regular paint, we mark the wires connected to the rear lock, after which they can be carefully disconnected.

Using a cross-head screwdriver, unscrew a pair of screws located below and directly securing the locking device:

Now we insert the key and turn it to the zero position to disable the anti-theft device that blocks the steering. At the same time, use a thin awl or a screwdriver to press on the fixing element, with the help of which the lock is held in place:

After completing these steps, pull the key to remove the locking mechanism from the bracket:

To install a new lock, all operations should be performed in reverse order.

Wiring sequence

If you are lucky and have a special chip for connecting the lock, everything is simple. But if such an element is missing, then the wiring will have to be connected one by one. To do this, you need to take the terminal block of the inserted lock so that one double-type terminal is located on the right and stands vertically. The top of this terminal should have a black wire attached to it.

Next, you should work in the direction of movement of the clock hand. The pink wire will be connected second, followed by blue, brown, and the whole thing will be completed by a red wire.
It should be noted that on the rear block of the lock near the terminals there are numbers, each of which corresponds to a specific wire.

Remember that the bottom area of the dual view terminal must be left empty. So, the contacts are connected.

Checking the results of the work

Having finished installing the lock, you need to make sure that all elements in the car work without interruption. We connect the battery. If operation is correct, the vehicle systems must be de-energized when the key is inserted into the zero position. In the first position, power begins to flow to the system that controls the internal combustion engine, generator unit, headlights, signals, washer and glass cleaner, lifts and control devices. After moving to the second sector, voltage is supplied to the systems listed above and the starter device is started. If the lock is installed and working correctly, the anti-theft locking rod extends and retracts when the key is switched from the “zero” position to the first position and back.

In a word, there are no difficulties in such work. All operations are performed with your own hands, without the help of car service specialists. Moreover, the price of an ignition switch for a VAZ 2106 ranges from twenty to thirty rubles, and you shouldn’t chase inexpensive fakes!

The ignition switch contact group is the connection point for many of the vehicle's electrical circuits. Therefore, if it malfunctions, entire groups of consumers may fail at once. Let's figure out how to change this part on the VAZ "six".

Contact group of the ignition switch on a VAZ-2106

The contact group on the VAZ-2106 is inserted into the ignition switch at the rear. It is secured in the lock body with a spring ring, which, entering a special groove, tightens the group and prevents it from falling out. Pulling it out of the lock is very simple - you just need to disconnect the spring ring with your fingers or a screwdriver. It is very important to disconnect the battery before doing this! Otherwise, it’s inevitable, and it’s not far from a fire. Another important fact is that it can be extremely difficult to put the ring back on, so it is advisable to remove the group with the lock removed. Read about this in the article:. Here we will deal only with the contact group.

The spring ring is easiest to fix with the ignition switch removed

After the spring ring is removed, the contact group can be pulled out of the lock body. It consists of two plastic rings with current-carrying tracks and a spring inside. During operation, carbon deposits may form on the tracks and their contacts, which causes the group to fail. In addition, there have been cases of abrasion of the metal tracks in just one year of use! In this case, the group is full of sawdust, and the surface of the tracks has deep grooves from the contacts. Question to the manufacturer...

A new contact group for the VAZ “Classic” (and it is the same for all classic models) is inexpensive, about 50 rubles. In this case, it is advisable to choose a group in which the starter contact is mounted rigidly on the track. There are contact groups with a starter contact in the form of a floating strip of metal that bends every time the key is moved to the starter position. The problem here is that this strip breaks off within a few months. Determining the starter contact is very simple - when purchasing a group, turn its upper part until the moment of resistance begins (a spring comes into action, which returns the ignition key from the starter position), and then turn it further (the starter is turned on). The contact, which closes only in this position, is the starter contact.

In the depths of the lock you can see the same “spade” that should fit into the groove of the contact group

Installing the group into the lock is very simple. One at a time, move the wires from the old group to the new one, without mixing up the contacts. Turn the key in the lock to a position where it can be pulled out. Turn the top of the new group as far to the left as possible and insert it into the lock. Inside the lock body there is an axis with a flat blade, which transmits rotation from the key to the upper disk of the contact group. It is necessary that this blade fits into the groove on the disk. If the contact group has entered the lock so much that the groove for the spring fastening ring is visible, then the blade has connected to the groove and the ring can be snapped into place.

As mentioned above, if you install a new group without removing the lock, you will have to suffer. It is very difficult to snap the ring into place, but it is still possible. The main thing is to make sure that the ring actually fits into the groove and does not touch the contacts of the group.

Before connecting the battery, be sure to put the car in neutral gear. This will protect you from accidentally turning on the starter and moving the car. After connecting the negative terminal to the battery, check that all equipment is operating correctly in accordance with the positions of the key in the ignition switch. If everything works correctly, then the replacement of the ignition switch contact group on the VAZ-2106 was carried out successfully.