Power unit. DIY power supply Schematic diagram of a 12 volt power supply

How to assemble a simple power supply and a powerful voltage source yourself.
Sometimes you have to connect various electronic devices, including homemade ones, to a 12 volt DC source. The power supply is easy to assemble yourself within half a weekend. Therefore, there is no need to purchase a ready-made unit, when it is more interesting to independently make the necessary thing for your laboratory.


Anyone who wants to can make a 12-volt unit on their own, without much difficulty.
Some people need a source to power an amplifier, while others need a source to power a small TV or radio...
Step 1: What parts are needed to assemble the power supply...
To assemble the block, prepare in advance the electronic components, parts and accessories from which the block itself will be assembled....
-Circuit board.
-Four 1N4001 diodes, or similar. Diode bridge.
- Voltage stabilizer LM7812.
-Low-power step-down transformer for 220 V, the secondary winding should have 14V - 35V alternating voltage, with a load current from 100 mA to 1A, depending on how much power is needed at the output.
-Electrolytic capacitor with a capacity of 1000 µF - 4700 µF.
-Capacitor with a capacity of 1uF.
-Two 100nF capacitors.
-Cuttings of installation wire.
-Radiator, if necessary.
If you need to get maximum power from the power source, you need to prepare an appropriate transformer, diodes and a heatsink for the chip.
Step 2: Tools....
To make a block, you need the following installation tools:
-Soldering iron or soldering station
-Pliers
-Installation tweezers
- Wire strippers
-Device for solder suction.
-Screwdriver.
And other tools that may be useful.
Step 3: Diagram and others...


To obtain 5 volt stabilized power, you can replace the LM7812 stabilizer with an LM7805.
To increase the load capacity to more than 0.5 amperes, you will need a heatsink for the microcircuit, otherwise it will fail due to overheating.
However, if you need to get several hundred milliamps (less than 500 mA) from the source, then you can do without a radiator, the heating will be negligible.
In addition, an LED has been added to the circuit to visually verify that the power supply is working, but you can do without it.

Power supply circuit 12V 30A.
When using one 7812 stabilizer as a voltage regulator and several powerful transistors, this power supply is capable of providing an output load current of up to 30 amperes.
Perhaps the most expensive part of this circuit is the power step-down transformer. The voltage of the secondary winding of the transformer must be several volts higher than the stabilized voltage of 12V to ensure the operation of the microcircuit. It must be borne in mind that you should not strive for a larger difference between the input and output voltage values, since at such a current the heat sink of the output transistors increases significantly in size.
In the transformer circuit, the diodes used must be designed for a high maximum forward current, approximately 100A. The maximum current flowing through the 7812 chip in the circuit will not be more than 1A.
Six composite Darlington transistors of the TIP2955 type connected in parallel provide a load current of 30A (each transistor is designed for a current of 5A), such a large current requires an appropriate size of the radiator, each transistor passes through one sixth of the load current.
A small fan can be used to cool the radiator.
Checking the power supply
When you turn it on for the first time, it is not recommended to connect a load. We check the functionality of the circuit: connect a voltmeter to the output terminals and measure the voltage, it should be 12 volts, or the value is very close to it. Next, we connect a 100 Ohm load resistor with a dissipation power of 3 W, or a similar load - such as an incandescent lamp from a car. In this case, the voltmeter reading should not change. If there is no 12 volt voltage at the output, turn off the power and check the correct installation and serviceability of the elements.
Before installation, check the serviceability of the power transistors, since if the transistor is broken, the voltage from the rectifier goes directly to the output of the circuit. To avoid this, check the power transistors for short circuits; to do this, use a multimeter to separately measure the resistance between the collector and emitter of the transistors. This check must be carried out before installing them in the circuit.

Power supply 3 - 24V

The power supply circuit produces an adjustable voltage in the range from 3 to 25 volts, with a maximum load current of up to 2A; if you reduce the current-limiting resistor to 0.3 ohms, the current can be increased to 3 amperes or more.
Transistors 2N3055 and 2N3053 are installed on the corresponding radiators; the power of the limiting resistor must be at least 3 W. Voltage regulation is controlled by an LM1558 or 1458 op amp. When using a 1458 op amp, it is necessary to replace the stabilizer elements that supply voltage from pin 8 to 3 of the op amp from a divider on resistors rated 5.1 K.
The maximum DC voltage for powering op-amps 1458 and 1558 is 36 V and 44 V, respectively. The power transformer must produce a voltage at least 4 volts higher than the stabilized output voltage. The power transformer in the circuit has an output voltage of 25.2 volts AC with a tap in the middle. When switching windings, the output voltage decreases to 15 volts.

1.5 V power supply circuit

The power supply circuit to obtain a voltage of 1.5 volts uses a step-down transformer, a bridge rectifier with a smoothing filter and an LM317 chip.

Diagram of an adjustable power supply from 1.5 to 12.5 V

Power supply circuit with output voltage regulation to obtain voltage from 1.5 volts to 12.5 volts; the LM317 microcircuit is used as a regulating element. It must be installed on the radiator, on an insulating gasket to prevent a short circuit to the housing.

Power supply circuit with fixed output voltage

Power supply circuit with a fixed output voltage of 5 volts or 12 volts. The LM 7805 chip is used as an active element, LM7812 is installed on a radiator to cool the heating of the case. The choice of transformer is shown on the left on the plate. By analogy, you can make a power supply for other output voltages.

20 Watt power supply circuit with protection

The circuit is intended for a small homemade transceiver, author DL6GL. When developing the unit, the goal was to have an efficiency of at least 50%, a nominal supply voltage of 13.8V, maximum 15V, for a load current of 2.7A.
Which scheme: switching power supply or linear?
Switching power supplies are small-sized and have good efficiency, but it is unknown how they will behave in a critical situation, surges in the output voltage...
Despite the shortcomings, a linear control scheme was chosen: a fairly large transformer, not high efficiency, cooling required, etc.
Parts from a homemade power supply from the 1980s were used: a radiator with two 2N3055. The only thing missing was a µA723/LM723 voltage regulator and a few small parts.
The voltage regulator is assembled on a µA723/LM723 microcircuit with standard inclusion. Output transistors T2, T3 type 2N3055 are installed on radiators for cooling. Using potentiometer R1, the output voltage is set within 12-15V. Using variable resistor R2, the maximum voltage drop across resistor R7 is set, which is 0.7V (between pins 2 and 3 of the microcircuit).
A toroidal transformer is used for the power supply (can be any at your discretion).
On the MC3423 chip, a circuit is assembled that is triggered when the voltage (surge) at the output of the power supply is exceeded, by adjusting R3 the voltage threshold is set on leg 2 from the divider R3/R8/R9 (2.6V reference voltage), the voltage that opens the thyristor BT145 is supplied from output 8, causing a short circuit leading to tripping of fuse 6.3a.

To prepare the power supply for operation (the 6.3A fuse is not yet involved), set the output voltage to, for example, 12.0V. Load the unit with a load; for this you can connect a 12V/20W halogen lamp. Set R2 so that the voltage drop is 0.7V (the current should be within 3.8A 0.7=0.185Ωx3.8).
We configure the operation of the overvoltage protection; to do this, we smoothly set the output voltage to 16V and adjust R3 to trigger the protection. Next, we set the output voltage to normal and install the fuse (before that we installed a jumper).
The described power supply can be reconstructed for more powerful loads; to do this, install a more powerful transformer, additional transistors, wiring elements, and a rectifier at your discretion.

Homemade 3.3v power supply

If you need a powerful power supply of 3.3 volts, then it can be made by converting an old power supply from a PC or using the above circuits. For example, replace a 47 ohm resistor of a higher value in the 1.5 V power supply circuit, or install a potentiometer for convenience, adjusting it to the desired voltage.

Transformer power supply on KT808

Many radio amateurs still have old Soviet radio components that are lying around idle, but which can be successfully used and they will serve you faithfully for a long time, one of the well-known UA1ZH circuits that is floating around the Internet. Many spears and arrows have been broken on forums when discussing what is better, a field-effect transistor or a regular silicon or germanium one, what temperature of crystal heating will they withstand and which one is more reliable?
Each side has its own arguments, but you can get the parts and make another simple and reliable power supply. The circuit is very simple, protected from overcurrent, and when three KT808 are connected in parallel, it can produce a current of 20A; the author used such a unit with 7 parallel transistors and delivered 50A to the load, while the filter capacitor capacity was 120,000 uF, the voltage of the secondary winding was 19V. It must be taken into account that the relay contacts must switch such a large current.

If installed correctly, the output voltage drop does not exceed 0.1 volt

Power supply for 1000V, 2000V, 3000V

If we need to have a high voltage DC source to power the transmitter output stage lamp, what should we use for this? On the Internet there are many different power supply circuits for 600V, 1000V, 2000V, 3000V.
First: for high voltage, circuits with transformers for both one phase and three phases are used (if there is a three-phase voltage source in the house).
Second: to reduce size and weight, they use a transformerless power supply circuit, directly a 220-volt network with voltage multiplication. The biggest drawback of this circuit is that there is no galvanic isolation between the network and the load, as the output is connected to a given voltage source, observing phase and zero.

The circuit has a step-up anode transformer T1 (for the required power, for example 2500 VA, 2400V, current 0.8 A) and a step-down filament transformer T2 - TN-46, TN-36, etc. To eliminate current surges during switching on and protection diodes when charging capacitors, switching is used through quenching resistors R21 and R22.
The diodes in the high-voltage circuit are shunted by resistors in order to uniformly distribute Urev. Calculation of the nominal value using the formula R(Ohm) = PIVx500. C1-C20 to eliminate white noise and reduce surge voltages. You can also use bridges like KBU-810 as diodes by connecting them according to the specified circuit and, accordingly, taking the required amount, not forgetting about shunting.
R23-R26 for discharging capacitors after a power outage. To equalize the voltage on series-connected capacitors, equalizing resistors are placed in parallel, which are calculated from the ratio for every 1 volt there are 100 ohms, but at high voltage the resistors turn out to be quite powerful and here you have to maneuver, taking into account that the open-circuit voltage is higher by 1, 41.

More on the topic

Transformer power supply 13.8 volts 25 A for a HF transceiver with your own hands.

Repair and modification of the Chinese power supply to power the adapter.

In one of mine, I showed how to make a good power supply yourself and complained about why good power supplies are rarely found on sale. I liked this power supply just from the picture, but since the picture can be deceiving, I decided to take a closer look and test it.
The review will include a description, photos, tests and analysis of a small design error.
Continue reading below the cut.

My readers probably remember the review “12 Volt 5 Ampere power supply or how it could be done.” This power supply reminded me of the one I made at the end of the review :)

But tests and checks are of course good, but I’ll start, as always, with how it drove and how it arrived.
More than one power supply arrived, I’ll tell you about the second product another time, I think it will be no less interesting. I drove quickly and got there along the track in 8 days.
But there was a complaint about the packaging, but since not everyone likes packaging, I’ll hide a few photos under the spoiler.

Package

The order arrived in a regular gray bag, wrapped in foam tape.

It was this packaging that I had complaints about. The packer simply folded my two bags, wrapped them with tape and taped them together, but the edges were left open.
As a result, the bags and the roll of tape traveled separately. It was very lucky that the trip was short and they were packed in separate bags, otherwise they could have broken through the packaging with their radiators and crawled out.

The board was packed in a familiar antistatic bag, with an equally familiar sticker.


Brief characteristics:
Input voltage 85-265 Volts
Output voltage - 12 Volts
Load current - 6 Amperes nominal, 8 Amps maximum.
Output power - 100 Watts (maximum)

The dimensions of the board are not very large, 107x57x30mm.

There is a drawing with more accurate dimensions, I think it will be useful.

The board itself looks very neat, completely matches the photo in the store, which pleasantly surprised me.

The board has quite large heatsinks, and the board itself is made in an open design, i.e. It is intended for installation in some device and does not have its own housing.
I took it for a reason, but for business :) I have an idea to remake one of my devices, but since I was not sure of the quality of this power supply, I decided to order and try only that one first, so there will be a continuation. Well, at least I hope so.

The board contains an input filter, an inrush current limiter and a screwless terminal block for the 220 Volt input.
The power transformer has a DC12V-8 sticker.
The output winding of the transformer is wound in 5 wires

The soldering is very neat, the leads are bitten off quite briefly, nothing sticks out, the flux is completely washed away. There are no missing components.
The board is two-layer with double-sided mounting.
But there is a small note: only one mounting pin is soldered on each of the radiators.
In my opinion this is not very good. What prevented us from soldering both is unclear.
Moreover, in the photo of the store everything is absolutely exactly the same.
I would like to note that the output voltage is measured at a point as close as possible to the output connector, which is a plus and affects the accuracy of holding the output voltage.

A closer look at the main components of the board.
Installed PWM controller CR6842S, which is a complete analogue of the more famous controller
Almost all installed resistors are accurate, no worse than 1%, as indicated by the four-digit marking.

Power transistor 600 Volt 20 Ampere, 0.19 Ohm manufactured by Infineon.
Another minor note: the mounting screw was tightened too much and it pressed in the insulating sleeve. The transistor remained isolated from the radiator, and the radiator itself was isolated from other components, but the impression was somewhat spoiled.
The transistor is isolated from the radiator by a mica plate.

Let me digress a little, in the photo you can see a small electrolytic capacitor, judging by the soldering it was either soldered in later or replaced, this did not affect the performance in any way (or almost in no way).
The fact is that if the load changes sharply from zero to 4 Amps or more, the power supply may turn off for 0.5 seconds. I would advise replacing this electrolyte with something like 47µFx50 V.
If such modes are not planned, then you can leave it as is.

Output diode assembly 100 Volt 2x20 Ampere manufactured by ST.
The radiator is actually smooth, that’s how it looks in the photo :)

You can also see a pair of output capacitors 1000 µF x 35 Volt, an output filter choke and an LED indicating the power supply is turned on.
Here the connector has already been installed with a regular screw connector.
Although, as for me, connectors are generally superfluous for an embedded board.

The output capacitors are installed with a good voltage margin, which is very good.
Along the way, I checked the capacitance and ESR of these capacitors, and it turned out just as good.
The device showed the total capacitance and ESR, if recalculated for each separately, it will be approximately 1050 μF and 30 mOhm.
The capacitors are hardly branded, but the characteristics are quite normal, I was pleased with the operating voltage of 35 Volts. I usually use 25 Volt capacitors in my power supplies.

Well, “in order not to run twice,” I checked the input electrolyte.
It says 82uF 400 Volts 105 degrees.
Capacitance is almost normal, ESR is normal.
Capacitor manufacturer Taicon.

And of course I drew a diagram of this power supply. Most components are numbered according to the printed circuit board.

To test the power supply I prepared this bunch of different things :)
Nothing unusual:
Load resistors 3 pieces 10 Ohms and one set giving a total of 3 Ohms (5 pieces of 15 Ohms connected in parallel) + fan.
Multimeter
Non-contact thermometer
Oscilloscope
All kinds of connectors and wires.

Power supply testing

The testing process involved progressively increasing the load, and after each increase in load I waited about 15 minutes, then measured the temperature of the main components and moved on to the next step of increasing the load.
The oscilloscope divider was in the 1:1 position all this time.

1. Idle mode. Voltage 12.29 Volts.
2. One 10 Ohm resistor is connected. The voltage drops slightly to 12.28 Volts.

1. 2 10 Ohm resistors are connected, voltage 12.28 Volts.
2. 3 10 Ohm resistors are connected, voltage 12.27 Volts.

1. Connected to a 3 Ohm resistance set + fan, voltage 12.27 Volts
2. Set 3 Ohm + 10 Ohm resistor, voltage 12.27 Volts.

A small note: when connecting a load of more than 4 amperes, the power supply may turn off for 0.5 seconds and then turn on again. This only happens when moving from idle mode; even a small load removes this effect completely.

1. Set of 3 Ohms + 2 resistors 10 Ohms, voltage 12.27 Volts.
2. Maximum load mode, 3 Ohm + 3 10 Ohm resistors, voltage 12.27 Volts.

As I wrote above, during the testing process I measured the temperatures of various components.
Temperatures measured:
Power transistor
Transformer
Output diode
The first according to the output capacitor circuit.

For more accurate readings, the temperature of the transistor and diode assembly itself, and not their radiators, was measured.
With a load power of 80 Watts, I measured the temperature twice, the second measurement was after an additional 10 minute warm-up.


Summary:
pros
High quality build
Quite high quality components with a reserve.
Compliance with the stated parameters.
Excellent accuracy of output voltage stabilization
I don't see any need for improvement.
Low price.

Minuses
Note on packaging (minus the store)
One mounting contact on the radiator is not soldered.

My opinion.
To be honest, I already liked this power supply from the outside in the photo of the store, and I already had some confidence in what I would get in the end, but it’s one thing to see, and another thing to try.
The power supply left positive emotions and is perfect for being built into some kind of homemade device.
Of course, there are some downsides, but they are very small compared to the advantages.

The power supply for review was provided by banggood.

I hope that my review will be useful.
Of course, you can say that I am praising the product, but I can say that I have been working on power supplies for about 15 years, during this time I have collected more than 1000 units, how many I have repaired and remade, I have lost count. That’s why I can’t not praise a normal thing. I've seen better things, especially industrial power supplies, but the price tag is different.
You can also consider such a power supply, but with less power.

A small note to Chinese engineers

The power supply showed very good results, but there is a small caveat to the design, or rather to the printed circuit board.
The routing of some circuits is not done correctly, and if it were done correctly, the ripple level could be further reduced.
I'll show you with an example.
1. How it is done in the power supply, this section can be seen on the board, I simplified it a little for clarity.
2. How can this be done better without moving components on the board?
3. how to do it even better, but with moving components.
The fact is that in power circuits it is undesirable to have areas where current can flow in two directions, as this increases the level of interference.
The current must flow in only one direction.
In the original version, the capacitor charging current first flows along the same tracks, then the discharge current flows through them.


Planning to buy +389 Add to favorites I liked the review +174 +380

Making a power supply with your own hands makes sense not only for enthusiastic radio amateurs. A homemade power supply unit (PSU) will create convenience and save a considerable amount in the following cases:

  • To power low-voltage power tools, to save the life of an expensive rechargeable battery;
  • For electrification of premises that are particularly dangerous in terms of the degree of electric shock: basements, garages, sheds, etc. When powered by alternating current, a large amount of it in low-voltage wiring can create interference with household appliances and electronics;
  • In design and creativity for precise, safe and waste-free cutting of foam plastic, foam rubber, low-melting plastics with heated nichrome;
  • In lighting design, the use of special power supplies will extend the life of the LED strip and obtain stable lighting effects. Powering underwater illuminators, etc. from a household electrical network is generally unacceptable;
  • For charging phones, smartphones, tablets, laptops away from stable power sources;
  • For electroacupuncture;
  • And many other purposes not directly related to electronics.

Acceptable simplifications

Professional power supplies are designed to power any kind of load, incl. reactive. Possible consumers include precision equipment. The pro-BP must maintain the specified voltage with the highest accuracy for an indefinitely long time, and its design, protection and automation must allow operation by unqualified personnel in difficult conditions, for example. biologists to power their instruments in a greenhouse or on an expedition.

An amateur laboratory power supply is free from these limitations and therefore can be significantly simplified while maintaining quality indicators sufficient for personal use. Further, through also simple improvements, it is possible to obtain a special-purpose power supply from it. What are we going to do now?

Abbreviations

  1. KZ – short circuit.
  2. XX – idle speed, i.e. sudden disconnection of the load (consumer) or a break in its circuit.
  3. VS – voltage stabilization coefficient. It is equal to the ratio of the change in input voltage (in % or times) to the same output voltage at a constant current consumption. Eg. The network voltage dropped completely, from 245 to 185V. Relative to the norm of 220V, this will be 27%. If the VS of the power supply is 100, the output voltage will change by 0.27%, which, with its value of 12V, will give a drift of 0.033V. More than acceptable for amateur practice.
  4. IPN is a source of unstabilized primary voltage. This can be an iron transformer with a rectifier or a pulsed network voltage inverter (VIN).
  5. IIN - operate at a higher (8-100 kHz) frequency, which allows the use of lightweight compact ferrite transformers with windings of several to several dozen turns, but they are not without drawbacks, see below.
  6. RE – regulating element of the voltage stabilizer (SV). Maintains the output at its specified value.
  7. ION – reference voltage source. Sets its reference value, according to which, together with the OS feedback signals, the control device of the control unit influences the RE.
  8. SNN – continuous voltage stabilizer; simply “analog”.
  9. ISN – pulse voltage stabilizer.
  10. UPS is a switching power supply.

Note: both SNN and ISN can operate both from an industrial frequency power supply with a transformer on iron, and from an electrical power supply.

About computer power supplies

UPSs are compact and economical. And in the pantry many people have a power supply from an old computer lying around, obsolete, but quite serviceable. So is it possible to adapt a switching power supply from a computer for amateur/working purposes? Unfortunately, a computer UPS is a rather highly specialized device and the possibilities of its use at home/at work are very limited:

It is perhaps advisable for the average amateur to use a UPS converted from a computer one only to power power tools; about this see below. The second case is if an amateur is engaged in PC repair and/or creation of logic circuits. But then he already knows how to adapt a power supply from a computer for this:

  1. Load the main channels +5V and +12V (red and yellow wires) with nichrome spirals at 10-15% of the rated load;
  2. The green soft start wire (low-voltage button on the front panel of the system unit) pc on is shorted to common, i.e. on any of the black wires;
  3. On/off is performed mechanically, using a toggle switch on the rear panel of the power supply unit;
  4. With mechanical (iron) I/O “on duty”, i.e. independent power supply of USB ports +5V will also be turned off.

Get to work!

Due to the shortcomings of UPSs, plus their fundamental and circuitry complexity, we will only look at a couple of them at the end, but simple and useful, and talk about the method of repairing the IPS. The main part of the material is devoted to SNN and IPN with industrial frequency transformers. They allow a person who has just picked up a soldering iron to build a power supply of very high quality. And having it on the farm, it will be easier to master “fine” techniques.

IPN

First, let's look at the IPN. We’ll leave pulse ones in more detail until the section on repairs, but they have something in common with “iron” ones: a power transformer, a rectifier and a ripple suppression filter. Together, they can be implemented in various ways depending on the purpose of the power supply.

Pos. 1 in Fig. 1 – half-wave (1P) rectifier. The voltage drop across the diode is the smallest, approx. 2B. But the pulsation of the rectified voltage is with a frequency of 50 Hz and is “ragged”, i.e. with intervals between pulses, so the pulsation filter capacitor Sf should be 4-6 times larger in capacity than in other circuits. The use of power transformer Tr for power is 50%, because Only 1 half-wave is rectified. For the same reason, a magnetic flux imbalance occurs in the Tr magnetic circuit and the network “sees” it not as an active load, but as inductance. Therefore, 1P rectifiers are used only for low power and where there is no other way, for example. in IIN on blocking generators and with a damper diode, see below.

Note: why 2V, and not 0.7V, at which the p-n junction in silicon opens? The reason is through current, which is discussed below.

Pos. 2 – 2-half-wave with midpoint (2PS). The diode losses are the same as before. case. The ripple is 100 Hz continuous, so the smallest possible Sf is needed. Use of Tr - 100% Disadvantage - double copper consumption on the secondary winding. At the time when rectifiers were made using kenotron lamps, this did not matter, but now it is decisive. Therefore, 2PS are used in low-voltage rectifiers, mainly at higher frequencies with Schottky diodes in UPSs, but 2PS have no fundamental limitations on power.

Pos. 3 – 2-half-wave bridge, 2RM. Losses on diodes are doubled compared to pos. 1 and 2. The rest is the same as 2PS, but the secondary copper is needed almost half as much. Almost - because several turns have to be wound to compensate for the losses on a pair of “extra” diodes. The most commonly used circuit is for voltages from 12V.

Pos. 3 – bipolar. The “bridge” is depicted conventionally, as is customary in circuit diagrams (get used to it!), and is rotated 90 degrees counterclockwise, but in fact it is a pair of 2PS connected in opposite polarities, as can be clearly seen further in Fig. 6. Copper consumption is the same as 2PS, diode losses are the same as 2PM, the rest is the same as both. It is built mainly to power analog devices that require voltage symmetry: Hi-Fi UMZCH, DAC/ADC, etc.

Pos. 4 – bipolar according to the parallel doubling scheme. Provides increased voltage symmetry without additional measures, because asymmetry of the secondary winding is excluded. Using Tr 100%, ripples 100 Hz, but torn, so Sf needs double capacity. Losses on the diodes are approximately 2.7V due to the mutual exchange of through currents, see below, and at a power of more than 15-20 W they increase sharply. They are built mainly as low-power auxiliary ones for independent power supply of operational amplifiers (op-amps) and other low-power, but demanding analog components in terms of power supply quality.

How to choose a transformer?

In a UPS, the entire circuit is most often clearly tied to the standard size (more precisely, to the volume and cross-sectional area Sc) of the transformer/transformers, because the use of fine processes in ferrite makes it possible to simplify the circuit while making it more reliable. Here, “somehow in your own way” comes down to strict adherence to the developer’s recommendations.

The iron-based transformer is selected taking into account the characteristics of the SNN, or is taken into account when calculating it. The voltage drop across the RE Ure should not be taken less than 3V, otherwise the VS will drop sharply. As Ure increases, the VS increases slightly, but the dissipated RE power grows much faster. Therefore, Ure is taken at 4-6 V. To it we add 2(4) V of losses on the diodes and the voltage drop on the secondary winding Tr U2; for a power range of 30-100 W and voltages of 12-60 V, we take it to 2.5 V. U2 arises primarily not from the ohmic resistance of the winding (it is generally negligible in powerful transformers), but due to losses due to magnetization reversal of the core and the creation of a stray field. Simply, part of the network energy, “pumped” by the primary winding into the magnetic circuit, evaporates into outer space, which is what the value of U2 takes into account.

So, we calculated, for example, for a bridge rectifier, 4 + 4 + 2.5 = 10.5 V extra. We add it to the required output voltage of the power supply unit; let it be 12V, and divide by 1.414, we get 22.5/1.414 = 15.9 or 16V, this will be the lowest permissible voltage of the secondary winding. If TP is factory-made, we take 18V from the standard range.

Now the secondary current comes into play, which, naturally, is equal to the maximum load current. Let us say we need 3A; multiply by 18V, it will be 54W. We have obtained the overall power Tr, Pg, and we will find the rated power P by dividing Pg by the efficiency Tr η, which depends on Pg:

  • up to 10W, η = 0.6.
  • 10-20 W, η = 0.7.
  • 20-40 W, η = 0.75.
  • 40-60 W, η = 0.8.
  • 60-80 W, η = 0.85.
  • 80-120 W, η = 0.9.
  • from 120 W, η = 0.95.

In our case, there will be P = 54/0.8 = 67.5 W, but there is no such standard value, so you will have to take 80 W. In order to get 12Vx3A = 36W at the output. A steam locomotive, and that's all. It’s time to learn how to calculate and wind the “trances” yourself. Moreover, in the USSR, methods for calculating transformers on iron were developed that make it possible, without loss of reliability, to squeeze 600 W out of a core, which, when calculated according to amateur radio reference books, is capable of producing only 250 W. "Iron Trance" is not as stupid as it seems.

SNN

The rectified voltage needs to be stabilized and, most often, regulated. If the load is more powerful than 30-40 W, short-circuit protection is also necessary, otherwise a malfunction of the power supply may cause a network failure. SNN does all this together.

Simple reference

It is better for a beginner not to immediately go into high power, but to make a simple, highly stable 12V ELV for testing according to the circuit in Fig. 2. It can then be used as a source of reference voltage (its exact value is set by R5), for checking devices, or as a high-quality ELV ION. The maximum load current of this circuit is only 40mA, but the VSC on the antediluvian GT403 and the equally ancient K140UD1 is more than 1000, and when replacing VT1 with a medium-power silicon one and DA1 on any of the modern op-amps it will exceed 2000 and even 2500. The load current will also increase to 150 -200 mA, which is already useful.

0-30

The next stage is a power supply with voltage regulation. The previous one was done according to the so-called. compensating comparison circuit, but it is difficult to convert one to a high current. We will make a new SNN based on an emitter follower (EF), in which the RE and CU are combined in just one transistor. The KSN will be somewhere around 80-150, but this will be enough for an amateur. But the SNN on the ED allows, without any special tricks, to obtain an output current of up to 10A or more, as much as the Tr will give and the RE will withstand.

The circuit of a simple 0-30V power supply is shown in pos. 1 Fig. 3. IPN for it is a ready-made transformer such as TPP or TS for 40-60 W with a secondary winding for 2x24V. Rectifier type 2PS with diodes rated at 3-5A or more (KD202, KD213, D242, etc.). VT1 is installed on a radiator with an area of ​​50 square meters or more. cm; An old PC processor will work very well. Under such conditions, this ELV is not afraid of a short circuit, only VT1 and Tr will heat up, so a 0.5A fuse in the primary winding circuit of Tr is enough for protection.

Pos. Figure 2 shows how convenient a power supply on an electric power supply is for an amateur: there is a 5A power supply circuit with adjustment from 12 to 36 V. This power supply can supply 10A to the load if there is a 400W 36V power supply. Its first feature is the integrated SNN K142EN8 (preferably with index B) acts in an unusual role as a control unit: to its own 12V output is added, partially or completely, all 24V, the voltage from the ION to R1, R2, VD5, VD6. Capacitors C2 and C3 prevent excitation on HF DA1 operating in an unusual mode.

The next point is the short circuit protection device (PD) on R3, VT2, R4. If the voltage drop across R4 exceeds approximately 0.7V, VT2 will open, close the base circuit of VT1 to the common wire, it will close and disconnect the load from the voltage. R3 is needed so that the extra current does not damage DA1 when the ultrasound is triggered. There is no need to increase its denomination, because when the ultrasound is triggered, you need to securely lock VT1.

And the last thing is the seemingly excessive capacitance of the output filter capacitor C4. In this case it is safe, because The maximum collector current of VT1 of 25A ensures its charge when turned on. But this ELV can supply a current of up to 30A to the load within 50-70 ms, so this simple power supply is suitable for powering low-voltage power tools: its starting current does not exceed this value. You just need to make (at least from plexiglass) a contact block-shoe with a cable, put on the heel of the handle, and let the “Akumych” rest and save resources before leaving.

About cooling

Let's say in this circuit the output is 12V with a maximum of 5A. This is just the average power of a jigsaw, but, unlike a drill or screwdriver, it takes it all the time. At C1 it stays at about 45V, i.e. on RE VT1 it remains somewhere around 33V at a current of 5A. Power dissipation is more than 150 W, even more than 160, if you consider that VD1-VD4 also needs to be cooled. It is clear from this that any powerful adjustable power supply must be equipped with a very effective cooling system.

A finned/needle radiator using natural convection does not solve the problem: calculations show that a dissipating surface of 2000 sq. m. is needed. see and the thickness of the radiator body (the plate from which the fins or needles extend) is from 16 mm. To own this much aluminum in a shaped product was and remains a dream in a crystal castle for an amateur. A CPU cooler with airflow is also not suitable; it is designed for less power.

One of the options for the home craftsman is an aluminum plate with a thickness of 6 mm and dimensions of 150x250 mm with holes of increasing diameter drilled along the radii from the installation site of the cooled element in a checkerboard pattern. It will also serve as the rear wall of the power supply housing, as in Fig. 4.

An indispensable condition for the effectiveness of such a cooler is a weak, but continuous flow of air through the perforations from the outside to the inside. To do this, install a low-power exhaust fan in the housing (preferably at the top). A computer with a diameter of 76 mm or more is suitable, for example. add. HDD cooler or video card. It is connected to pins 2 and 8 of DA1, there is always 12V.

Note: In fact, a radical way to overcome this problem is a secondary winding Tr with taps for 18, 27 and 36V. The primary voltage is switched depending on which tool is being used.

And yet the UPS

The described power supply for the workshop is good and very reliable, but it’s hard to carry it with you on trips. This is where a computer power supply will fit in: the power tool is insensitive to most of its shortcomings. Some modification most often comes down to installing an output (closest to the load) electrolytic capacitor of large capacity for the purpose described above. There are a lot of recipes for converting computer power supplies for power tools (mainly screwdrivers, which are not very powerful, but very useful) in RuNet; one of the methods is shown in the video below, for a 12V tool.

Video: 12V power supply from a computer

With 18V tools it’s even easier: for the same power they consume less current. A much more affordable ignition device (ballast) from a 40 W or more energy saving lamp may be useful here; it can be completely placed in the case of a bad battery, and only the cable with the power plug will remain outside. How to make a power supply for an 18V screwdriver from ballast from a burnt housekeeper, see the following video.

Video: 18V power supply for a screwdriver

High class

But let’s return to SNN on ES; their capabilities are far from being exhausted. In Fig. 5 – bipolar powerful power supply with 0-30 V regulation, suitable for Hi-Fi audio equipment and other fastidious consumers. The output voltage is set using one knob (R8), and the symmetry of the channels is maintained automatically at any voltage value and any load current. A pedant-formalist may turn gray before his eyes when he sees this circuit, but the author has had such a power supply working properly for about 30 years.

The main stumbling block during its creation was δr = δu/δi, where δu and δi are small instantaneous increments of voltage and current, respectively. To develop and set up high-quality equipment, it is necessary that δr does not exceed 0.05-0.07 Ohm. Simply, δr determines the ability of the power supply to instantly respond to surges in current consumption.

For the SNN on the EP, δr is equal to that of the ION, i.e. zener diode divided by the current transfer coefficient β RE. But for powerful transistors, β drops significantly at a large collector current, and δr of a zener diode ranges from a few to tens of ohms. Here, in order to compensate for the voltage drop across the RE and reduce the temperature drift of the output voltage, we had to assemble a whole chain of them in half with diodes: VD8-VD10. Therefore, the reference voltage from the ION is removed through an additional ED on VT1, its β is multiplied by β RE.

The next feature of this design is short circuit protection. The simplest one, described above, does not fit into a bipolar circuit in any way, so the protection problem is solved according to the principle “there is no trick against scrap”: there is no protective module as such, but there is redundancy in the parameters of powerful elements - KT825 and KT827 at 25A and KD2997A at 30A. T2 is not capable of providing such a current, and while it warms up, FU1 and/or FU2 will have time to burn out.

Note: It is not necessary to indicate blown fuses on miniature incandescent lamps. It’s just that at that time LEDs were still quite scarce, and there were several handfuls of SMOKs in the stash.

It remains to protect the RE from the extra discharge currents of the pulsation filter C3, C4 during a short circuit. To do this, they are connected through low-resistance limiting resistors. In this case, pulsations may appear in the circuit with a period equal to the time constant R(3,4)C(3,4). They are prevented by C5, C6 of smaller capacity. Their extra currents are no longer dangerous for RE: the charge drains faster than the crystals of the powerful KT825/827 heat up.

Output symmetry is ensured by op-amp DA1. The RE of the negative channel VT2 is opened by current through R6. As soon as the minus of the output exceeds the plus in absolute value, it will slightly open VT3, which will close VT2 and the absolute values ​​of the output voltages will be equal. Operational control over the symmetry of the output is carried out using a dial gauge with a zero in the middle of the scale P1 (its appearance is shown in the inset), and adjustment, if necessary, is carried out by R11.

The last highlight is the output filter C9-C12, L1, L2. This design is necessary to absorb possible HF interference from the load, so as not to rack your brain: the prototype is buggy or the power supply is “wobbly”. With electrolytic capacitors alone, shunted with ceramics, there is no complete certainty here; the large self-inductance of the “electrolytes” interferes. And chokes L1, L2 divide the “return” of the load across the spectrum, and to each their own.

This power supply unit, unlike the previous ones, requires some adjustment:

  1. Connect a load of 1-2 A at 30V;
  2. R8 is set to maximum, in the highest position according to the diagram;
  3. Using a reference voltmeter (any digital multimeter will do now) and R11, the channel voltages are set to be equal in absolute value. Maybe, if the op-amp does not have the ability to balance, you will have to select R10 or R12;
  4. Use the R14 trimmer to set P1 exactly to zero.

About power supply repair

PSUs fail more often than other electronic devices: they take the first blow of network surges, and they also get a lot from the load. Even if you do not intend to make your own power supply, a UPS can be found, in addition to a computer, in a microwave oven, washing machine, and other household appliances. The ability to diagnose a power supply and knowledge of the basics of electrical safety will make it possible, if not to fix the fault yourself, then to competently bargain on the price with repairmen. Therefore, let's look at how a power supply is diagnosed and repaired, especially with an IIN, because over 80% of failures are their share.

Saturation and draft

First of all, about some effects, without understanding which it is impossible to work with a UPS. The first of them is the saturation of ferromagnets. They are not capable of absorbing energies of more than a certain value, depending on the properties of the material. Hobbyists rarely encounter saturation on iron; it can be magnetized to several Tesla (Tesla, a unit of measurement of magnetic induction). When calculating iron transformers, the induction is taken to be 0.7-1.7 Tesla. Ferrites can withstand only 0.15-0.35 T, their hysteresis loop is “more rectangular”, and operate at higher frequencies, so their probability of “jumping into saturation” is orders of magnitude higher.

If the magnetic circuit is saturated, the induction in it no longer grows and the EMF of the secondary windings disappears, even if the primary has already melted (remember school physics?). Now turn off the primary current. The magnetic field in soft magnetic materials (hard magnetic materials are permanent magnets) cannot exist stationary, like an electric charge or water in a tank. It will begin to dissipate, the induction will drop, and an EMF of the opposite polarity relative to the original polarity will be induced in all windings. This effect is quite widely used in IIN.

Unlike saturation, through current in semiconductor devices (simply draft) is an absolutely harmful phenomenon. It arises due to the formation/resorption of space charges in the p and n regions; for bipolar transistors - mainly in the base. Field-effect transistors and Schottky diodes are practically free from drafts.

For example, when voltage is applied/removed to a diode, it conducts current in both directions until the charges are collected/dissolved. That is why the voltage loss on the diodes in rectifiers is more than 0.7V: at the moment of switching, part of the charge of the filter capacitor has time to flow through the winding. In a parallel doubling rectifier, the draft flows through both diodes at once.

A draft of transistors causes a voltage surge on the collector, which can damage the device or, if a load is connected, damage it through extra current. But even without that, a transistor draft increases dynamic energy losses, like a diode draft, and reduces the efficiency of the device. Powerful field-effect transistors are almost not susceptible to it, because do not accumulate charge in the base due to its absence, and therefore switch very quickly and smoothly. “Almost”, because their source-gate circuits are protected from reverse voltage by Schottky diodes, which are slightly, but through.

TIN types

UPS trace their origins to the blocking generator, pos. 1 in Fig. 6. When turned on, Uin VT1 is slightly opened by current through Rb, current flows through winding Wk. It cannot instantly grow to the limit (remember school physics again); an emf is induced in the base Wb and load winding Wn. From Wb, through Sb, it forces the unlocking of VT1. No current flows through Wn yet and VD1 does not start up.

When the magnetic circuit is saturated, the currents in Wb and Wn stop. Then, due to the dissipation (resorption) of energy, the induction drops, an EMF of the opposite polarity is induced in the windings, and the reverse voltage Wb instantly locks (blocks) VT1, saving it from overheating and thermal breakdown. Therefore, such a scheme is called a blocking generator, or simply blocking. Rk and Sk cut off HF interference, of which blocking produces more than enough. Now some useful power can be removed from Wn, but only through the 1P rectifier. This phase continues until the Sat is completely recharged or until the stored magnetic energy is exhausted.

This power, however, is small, up to 10W. If you try to take more, VT1 will burn out from a strong draft before it locks. Since Tp is saturated, the blocking efficiency is no good: more than half of the energy stored in the magnetic circuit flies away to warm other worlds. True, due to the same saturation, blocking to some extent stabilizes the duration and amplitude of its pulses, and its circuit is very simple. Therefore, blocking-based TINs are often used in cheap phone chargers.

Note: the value of Sb largely, but not completely, as they write in amateur reference books, determines the pulse repetition period. The value of its capacitance must be linked to the properties and dimensions of the magnetic circuit and the speed of the transistor.

Blocking at one time gave rise to line scan TVs with cathode ray tubes (CRT), and it gave birth to an INN with a damper diode, pos. 2. Here the control unit, based on signals from Wb and the DSP feedback circuit, forcibly opens/locks VT1 before Tr is saturated. When VT1 is locked, the reverse current Wk is closed through the same damper diode VD1. This is the working phase: already greater than in blocking, part of the energy is removed into the load. It’s big because when it’s completely saturated, all the extra energy flies away, but here there’s not enough of that extra. In this way it is possible to remove power up to several tens of watts. However, since the control device cannot operate until Tr has approached saturation, the transistor still shows through strongly, the dynamic losses are large and the efficiency of the circuit leaves much more to be desired.

The IIN with a damper is still alive in televisions and CRT displays, since in them the IIN and the horizontal scan output are combined: the power transistor and TP are common. This greatly reduces production costs. But, frankly speaking, an IIN with a damper is fundamentally stunted: the transistor and transformer are forced to work all the time on the verge of failure. The engineers who managed to bring this circuit to acceptable reliability deserve the deepest respect, but it is strongly not recommended to stick a soldering iron in there except for professionals who have undergone professional training and have the appropriate experience.

The push-pull INN with a separate feedback transformer is most widely used, because has the best quality indicators and reliability. However, in terms of RF interference, it also sins terribly in comparison with “analog” power supplies (with transformers on hardware and SNN). Currently, this scheme exists in many modifications; powerful bipolar transistors in it are almost completely replaced by field-effect ones controlled by special devices. IC, but the principle of operation remains unchanged. It is illustrated by the original diagram, pos. 3.

The limiting device (LD) limits the charging current of the capacitors of the input filter Sfvkh1(2). Their large size is an indispensable condition for the operation of the device, because During one operating cycle, a small fraction of the stored energy is taken from them. Roughly speaking, they play the role of a water tank or air receiver. When charging “short”, the extra charge current can exceed 100A for a time of up to 100 ms. Rc1 and Rc2 with a resistance of the order of MOhm are needed to balance the filter voltage, because the slightest imbalance of his shoulders is unacceptable.

When Sfvkh1(2) are charged, the ultrasonic trigger device generates a trigger pulse that opens one of the arms (which one does not matter) of the inverter VT1 VT2. A current flows through the winding Wk of a large power transformer Tr2 and the magnetic energy from its core through the winding Wn is almost completely spent on rectification and on the load.

A small part of the energy Tr2, determined by the value of Rogr, is removed from the winding Woc1 and supplied to the winding Woc2 of a small basic feedback transformer Tr1. It quickly saturates, the open arm closes and, due to dissipation in Tr2, the previously closed one opens, as described for blocking, and the cycle repeats.

In essence, a push-pull IIN is 2 blockers “pushing” each other. Since the powerful Tr2 is not saturated, the draft VT1 VT2 is small, completely “sinks” into the magnetic circuit Tr2 and ultimately goes into the load. Therefore, a two-stroke IPP can be built with a power of up to several kW.

It's worse if he ends up in XX mode. Then, during the half cycle, Tr2 will have time to saturate itself and a strong draft will burn both VT1 and VT2 at once. However, now there are power ferrites on sale for induction up to 0.6 Tesla, but they are expensive and degrade from accidental magnetization reversal. Ferrites with a capacity of more than 1 Tesla are being developed, but in order for IINs to achieve “iron” reliability, at least 2.5 Tesla is needed.

Diagnostic technique

When troubleshooting an “analog” power supply, if it is “stupidly silent,” first check the fuses, then the protection, RE and ION, if it has transistors. They ring normally - we move on element by element, as described below.

In the IIN, if it “starts up” and immediately “stalls out”, they first check the control unit. The current in it is limited by a powerful low-resistance resistor, then shunted by an optothyristor. If the “resistor” is apparently burnt, replace it and the optocoupler. Other elements of the control device fail extremely rarely.

If the IIN is “silent, like a fish on ice,” the diagnosis also begins with the OU (maybe the “rezik” has completely burned out). Then - ultrasound. Cheap models use transistors in avalanche breakdown mode, which is far from being very reliable.

The next stage in any power supply is electrolytes. Fracture of the housing and leakage of electrolyte are not nearly as common as they write on the RuNet, but loss of capacity occurs much more often than failure of active elements. Electrolytic capacitors are checked with a multimeter capable of measuring capacitance. Below the nominal value by 20% or more - we lower the “dead” into the sludge and install a new, good one.

Then there are the active elements. You probably know how to dial diodes and transistors. But there are 2 tricks here. The first is that if a Schottky diode or zener diode is called by a tester with a 12V battery, then the device may show a breakdown, although the diode is quite good. It is better to call these components using a pointer device with a 1.5-3 V battery.

The second is powerful field workers. Above (did you notice?) it is said that their I-Z are protected by diodes. Therefore, powerful field-effect transistors seem to sound like serviceable bipolar transistors, even if they are unusable if the channel is “burnt out” (degraded) not completely.

Here, the only way available at home is to replace them with known good ones, both at once. If there is a burnt one left in the circuit, it will immediately pull a new working one with it. Electronics engineers joke that powerful field workers cannot live without each other. Another prof. joke – “replacement gay couple.” This means that the transistors of the IIN arms must be strictly of the same type.

Finally, film and ceramic capacitors. They are characterized by internal breaks (found by the same tester that checks the “air conditioners”) and leakage or breakdown under voltage. To “catch” them, you need to assemble a simple circuit according to Fig. 7. Step-by-step testing of electrical capacitors for breakdown and leakage is carried out as follows:

  • We set on the tester, without connecting it anywhere, the smallest limit for measuring direct voltage (most often 0.2V or 200mV), detect and record the device’s own error;
  • We turn on the measurement limit of 20V;
  • We connect the suspicious capacitor to points 3-4, the tester to 5-6, and to 1-2 we apply a constant voltage of 24-48 V;
  • Switch the multimeter voltage limits down to the lowest;
  • If on any tester it shows anything other than 0000.00 (at the very least - something other than its own error), the capacitor being tested is not suitable.

This is where the methodological part of the diagnosis ends and the creative part begins, where all the instructions are based on your own knowledge, experience and considerations.

A couple of impulses

UPSs are a special article due to their complexity and circuit diversity. Here, to begin with, we will look at a couple of samples using pulse width modulation (PWM), which allows us to obtain the best quality UPS. There are a lot of PWM circuits in RuNet, but PWM is not as scary as it is made out to be...

For lighting design

You can simply light the LED strip from any power supply described above, except for the one in Fig. 1, setting the required voltage. SNN with pos. 1 Fig. 3, it’s easy to make 3 of these, for channels R, G and B. But the durability and stability of the LEDs’ glow does not depend on the voltage applied to them, but on the current flowing through them. Therefore, a good power supply for LED strip should include a load current stabilizer; in technical terms - a stable current source (IST).

One of the schemes for stabilizing the light strip current, which can be repeated by amateurs, is shown in Fig. 8. It is assembled on an integrated timer 555 (domestic analogue - K1006VI1). Provides a stable tape current from a power supply voltage of 9-15 V. The amount of stable current is determined by the formula I = 1/(2R6); in this case - 0.7A. The powerful transistor VT3 is necessarily a field-effect transistor; from a draft, due to the charge of the base, a bipolar PWM simply will not form. Inductor L1 is wound on a ferrite ring 2000NM K20x4x6 with a 5xPE 0.2 mm harness. Number of turns – 50. Diodes VD1, VD2 – any silicon RF (KD104, KD106); VT1 and VT2 – KT3107 or analogues. With KT361, etc. The input voltage and brightness control ranges will decrease.

The circuit works like this: first, the time-setting capacitance C1 is charged through the R1VD1 circuit and discharged through VD2R3VT2, open, i.e. in saturation mode, through R1R5. The timer generates a sequence of pulses with the maximum frequency; more precisely - with a minimum duty cycle. The VT3 inertia-free switch generates powerful impulses, and its VD3C4C3L1 harness smooths them out to direct current.

Note: The duty cycle of a series of pulses is the ratio of their repetition period to the pulse duration. If, for example, the pulse duration is 10 μs, and the interval between them is 100 μs, then the duty cycle will be 11.

The current in the load increases, and the voltage drop across R6 opens VT1, i.e. transfers it from the cut-off (locking) mode to the active (reinforcing) mode. This creates a leakage circuit for the base of VT2 R2VT1+Upit and VT2 also goes into active mode. The discharge current C1 decreases, the discharge time increases, the duty cycle of the series increases and the average current value drops to the norm specified by R6. This is the essence of PWM. At minimum current, i.e. at maximum duty cycle, C1 is discharged through the VD2-R4-internal timer switch circuit.

In the original design, the ability to quickly adjust the current and, accordingly, the brightness of the glow is not provided; There are no 0.68 ohm potentiometers. The easiest way to adjust the brightness is by connecting, after adjustment, a 3.3-10 kOhm potentiometer R* into the gap between R3 and the VT2 emitter, highlighted in brown. By moving its engine down the circuit, we will increase the discharge time of C4, the duty cycle and reduce the current. Another way is to bypass the base junction of VT2 by turning on a potentiometer of approximately 1 MOhm at points a and b (highlighted in red), less preferable, because the adjustment will be deeper, but rougher and sharper.

Unfortunately, to set up this useful not only for IST light tapes, you need an oscilloscope:

  1. The minimum +Upit is supplied to the circuit.
  2. By selecting R1 (impulse) and R3 (pause) we achieve a duty cycle of 2, i.e. The pulse duration must be equal to the pause duration. You cannot give a duty cycle less than 2!
  3. Serve maximum +Upit.
  4. By selecting R4, the rated value of a stable current is achieved.

For charging

In Fig. 9 – diagram of the simplest ISN with PWM, suitable for charging a phone, smartphone, tablet (a laptop, unfortunately, will not work) from a homemade solar battery, wind generator, motorcycle or car battery, magneto flashlight “bug” and other low-power unstable random sources power supply See the diagram for the input voltage range, there is no error there. This ISN is indeed capable of producing an output voltage greater than the input. As in the previous one, here there is the effect of changing the polarity of the output relative to the input; this is generally a proprietary feature of PWM circuits. Let's hope that after reading the previous one carefully, you will understand the work of this tiny little thing yourself.

Incidentally, about charging and charging

Charging batteries is a very complex and delicate physical and chemical process, the violation of which reduces their service life several times or tens of times, i.e. number of charge-discharge cycles. The charger must, based on very small changes in battery voltage, calculate how much energy has been received and regulate the charging current accordingly according to a certain law. Therefore, the charger is by no means a power supply, and only batteries in devices with a built-in charge controller can be charged from ordinary power supplies: phones, smartphones, tablets, and certain models of digital cameras. And charging, which is a charger, is a subject for a separate discussion.

    Question-remont.ru said:

    There will be some sparking from the rectifier, but it's probably not a big deal. The point is the so-called. differential output impedance of the power supply. For alkaline batteries it is about mOhm (milliohms), for acid batteries it is even less. A trance with a bridge without smoothing has tenths and hundredths of an ohm, i.e. approx. 100 – 10 times more. And the starting current of a brushed DC motor can be 6-7 or even 20 times greater than the operating current. Yours is most likely closer to the latter - fast-accelerating motors are more compact and more economical, and the huge overload capacity of the batteries allows you to give the engine as much current as it can handle. for acceleration. A trans with a rectifier will not provide as much instantaneous current, and the engine accelerates more slowly than it was designed for, and with a large slip of the armature. From this, from the large slip, a spark arises, and then remains in operation due to self-induction in the windings.

    What can I recommend here? First: take a closer look - how does it spark? You need to watch it in operation, under load, i.e. during sawing.

    If sparks dance in certain places under the brushes, it’s okay. My powerful Konakovo drill sparkles so much from birth, and for goodness sake. In 24 years, I changed the brushes once, washed them with alcohol and polished the commutator - that’s all. If you connected an 18V instrument to a 24V output, then a little sparking is normal. Unwind the winding or extinguish the excess voltage with something like a welding rheostat (a resistor of approximately 0.2 Ohm for a power dissipation of 200 W or more), so that the motor operates at the rated voltage and, most likely, the spark will go away. If you connected it to 12 V, hoping that after rectification it would be 18, then in vain - the rectified voltage drops significantly under load. And the commutator electric motor, by the way, doesn’t care whether it is powered by direct current or alternating current.

    Specifically: take 3-5 m of steel wire with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm. Roll into a spiral with a diameter of 100-200 mm so that the turns do not touch each other. Place on a fireproof dielectric pad. Clean the ends of the wire until shiny and fold them into “ears”. It is best to immediately lubricate with graphite lubricant to prevent oxidation. This rheostat is connected to the break in one of the wires leading to the instrument. It goes without saying that the contacts should be screws, tightened tightly, with washers. Connect the entire circuit to the 24V output without rectification. The spark is gone, but the power on the shaft has also dropped - the rheostat needs to be reduced, one of the contacts needs to be switched 1-2 turns closer to the other. It still sparks, but less - the rheostat is too small, you need to add more turns. It is better to immediately make the rheostat obviously large so as not to screw on additional sections. It’s worse if the fire is along the entire line of contact between the brushes and the commutator or spark tails trail behind them. Then the rectifier needs an anti-aliasing filter somewhere, according to your data, from 100,000 µF. Not a cheap pleasure. The “filter” in this case will be an energy storage device for accelerating the motor. But it may not help if the overall power of the transformer is not enough. Efficiency of brushed DC motors is approx. 0.55-0.65, i.e. trans is needed from 800-900 W. That is, if the filter is installed, but still sparks with fire under the entire brush (under both, of course), then the transformer is not up to the task. Yes, if you install a filter, then the diodes of the bridge must be rated for triple the operating current, otherwise they may fly out from the surge of charging current when connected to the network. And then the tool can be launched 5-10 seconds after being connected to the network, so that the “banks” have time to “pump up”.

    And the worst thing is if the tails of sparks from the brushes reach or almost reach the opposite brush. This is called all-round fire. It very quickly burns out the collector to the point of complete disrepair. There can be several reasons for a circular fire. In your case, the most probable is that the motor was turned on at 12 V with rectification. Then, at a current of 30 A, the electrical power in the circuit is 360 W. The anchor slides more than 30 degrees per revolution, and this is necessarily a continuous all-round fire. It is also possible that the motor armature is wound with a simple (not double) wave. Such electric motors are better at overcoming instantaneous overloads, but they have a starting current - mother, don’t worry. I can’t say more precisely in absentia, and there’s no point in it – there’s hardly anything we can fix here with our own hands. Then it will probably be cheaper and easier to find and purchase new batteries. But first, try turning on the engine at a slightly higher voltage through the rheostat (see above). Almost always, in this way it is possible to shoot down a continuous all-round fire at the cost of a small (up to 10-15%) reduction in power on the shaft.

Evgeniy said:

Need more cuts. So that all the text is made up of abbreviations. Fuck that no one understands, but you don’t have to write the same word that is repeated THREE times in the text.

By clicking the “Add comment” button, I agree with the site.

Currently, feeding block systems are the main part of lighting devices. It is the 12-volt feeding device that allows you to save electrical energy. Making the device is not difficult. In our article we will try to answer the question of how to do it.

Types of power supplies

It is customary to divide feeding systems into several types. The first group includes secondary power sources, of which there are a large number. In the second - transformer or network. The third group includes pulsed sources. Each power supply has its own characteristics, its positive and negative sides.

The main part of the lighting devices is the recharge system. It is the 12-volt feeding device that allows you to save electrical energy. Making the device is not difficult. In our article we will try to answer the question of how to make a power supply with your own hands.


The most common is the second type of feeding system, which we will assemble today.

Components of the device

The mechanism we are assembling today consists of three parts:

  • step-down transformer, which is the most important and integral part;
  • a capacitor, with the help of which the current voltage is stabilized to optimal readings;
  • diodes that are necessary to assemble a diode bridge with your own hands.

Each part is very important. If an error is made in any of them during assembly, this will lead to the fact that the assembled unit and the household electrical appliance connected to the system will not work correctly. And also the assembled device may not turn on at all. Let's look at each of the components of the mechanism in more detail.

Transformer selection

The voltage converting device is one of the main transformer components. Here the alternating 220-volt voltage is converted into something similar to itself, but with a slightly reduced amplitude.

Using simple calculations, we will find out how many revolutions the secondary winding has made around its axis. Having found out the number of revolutions (usually the voltage indicator in this case is 6.3), you should divide the voltage indicator by the number of turns.

A conventional step-down device, necessary to reduce the voltage from the usual 220-volt to 12-volt, can be used as a transformer-type machine.

It is optimal to use a 470 μF capacitor with a 25-volt voltage for the device. Why would this be the best option? This is due to the fact that when the voltage leaves the unit, it becomes higher than the standard voltage of 12V. When the mechanism starts working, the voltage returns to standard values ​​(12 V).


How to make a rectifier

A device that operates on semiconductor diodes is called a rectifier, which is one of the important elements of the power supply circuit. With the help of a rectifier, the values ​​of alternating current are converted and brought closer to their constant values.

It is not difficult to assemble a 12 volt power supply with your own hands. First of all, you should understand that a capacitor has two outputs: one is positive, the other is negative.

How can you figure out which one is which? If the diode has a positive value, then there is a special strip on it; if there is no strip, then the diode has a negative value. The diode components are connected in series:

Schematic connection of 2 elements: the device with a minus must be connected to a diode with a positive value.

The connection of 2 other diodes is carried out in a similar way (the device with a minus value must be connected to a diode with a positive value). Connecting paired structures to each other, in this case it is necessary to connect diodes in pairs (negative with negative indicator, and positive with positive).

It is important to ensure that the connection is correct, otherwise it will lead to problems in the operation of the mechanism.

After creating a diode bridge with 4 connecting points:

  • two with a plus-minus circuit;
  • one plus-plus;
  • One minus or minus - you can start assembling the mechanism. It is important to check the quality of contact between the diode systems.

Assembly of filtration blocks

Before connecting the 12 volt power supply, it is recommended to install special filters that will help the operation of household appliances connected to the device. To power household appliances, an LC circuit is usually used. Where the rectifier with the plus value comes out of the device, a choke must be connected. Electric current must pass through it.

At the second stage of filtration, work is carried out with an electrolytic capacitor with a large capacity, which should be connected to the inductor on the side with a positive value.


The connection of the second pin goes to the common electrical wire with a minus value. An electrolytic capacitor helps stabilize the electric current. How does this happen? We will look at this issue in a little more detail.

How to stabilize the output voltage

To stabilize the output voltage, you can use a 12-volt Zener diode. Even if you install more powerful stabilizers, the output will be the same 12 Volts.

Where does the remaining amount go? The rest is converted into thermal energy, so this component is usually mounted on the surface of the radiator.

Regulatory process

It is common practice to use regulated power supplies. When installing the stabilizer, it is necessary to mount a special wire to which a variable resistor should be connected.

The variable resistor and output of the assembly have 220-ohm resistance values. A semiconductor diode is installed at the input and output of the stabilizing device.

The regulator allows you to stabilize current indicators to optimal values ​​and prevents burnout of the mechanism. To enhance the safety of the assembled unit, you can install an electronic voltmeter at the output of the system, which will help monitor the current voltage in the system.

Assembling a 12 Volt power supply is not difficult even for a person with minimal knowledge in the field of assembling any devices. To do this, you can use step-by-step instructions with photos at each stage. Having the necessary parts and step-by-step instructions, you can assemble any mechanism.

When connecting to electrical appliances, you must consult with a master electrician, who will check the correct assembly, which will prevent problems with the operation of the device.

Photo of 12 volt power supplies

We all know that power supplies today are an integral part of a large number of electrical appliances and lighting systems. Without them, our life is unrealistic, especially since energy savings contribute to the operation of these devices. Basically, power supplies have an output voltage of 12 to 36 volts. In this article I would like to answer one question: is it possible to make a 12V power supply with your own hands? In principle, no problems, because this device actually has a simple design.

What can you assemble a power supply from?

So, what parts and devices are needed to assemble a homemade power supply? The design is based on only three components:

  • Transformer.
  • Capacitor.
  • Diodes, from which you will have to assemble a diode bridge with your own hands.

As a transformer, you will have to use a regular step-down device, which will reduce the voltage from 220 V to 12 V. Such devices are sold in stores today, you can use an old unit, you can convert, for example, a transformer with a step-down to 36 volts into a device with a step-down to 12 volt. In general, there are options, use any.

As for the capacitor, the best option for a homemade unit is a capacitor with a capacity of 470 μF with a voltage of 25V. Why exactly with this voltage? The thing is that the output voltage will be higher than planned, that is, more than 12 volts. And this is normal, because under load the voltage will drop to 12V.

Assembling a diode bridge

Now here’s a very important point, which concerns the question of how to make a 12V power supply with your own hands. First, let's start with the fact that a diode is a bipolar element, like, in principle, a capacitor. That is, he has two outputs: one is minus, the other is plus. So, the plus on the diode is indicated by a stripe, which means that without a stripe it is a minus. Diode connection sequence:

  • First, two elements are connected to each other according to a plus-minus scheme.
  • The other two diodes are connected in the same way.
  • After that, the two paired structures must be connected to each other according to the scheme plus with plus and minus with minus. The main thing here is not to make a mistake.

In the end you should have a closed structure, which is called a diode bridge. It has four connecting points: two “plus-minus”, one “plus-plus” and another “minus-minus”. You can connect elements on any board of the required device. The main requirement here is high-quality contact between the diodes.

Secondly, a diode bridge is, in fact, a regular rectifier that rectifies the alternating current coming from the secondary winding of the transformer.

Complete assembly of the device

Everything is ready, we can proceed to assembling the final product of our idea. First you need to connect the transformer leads to the diode bridge. They are connected to the plus-minus connection points, the remaining points remain free.

Now you need to connect the capacitor. Please note that there are also marks on it that determine the polarity of the device. Only on it everything is the opposite than on diodes. That is, the capacitor is usually marked with a negative terminal, which is connected to the minus-minus point of the diode bridge, and the opposite pole (positive) is connected to the minus-minus point.

All that remains is to connect the two power wires. For this, it is best to choose colored wires, although this is not necessary. You can use single-color ones, but on the condition that they have to be marked in some way, for example, make a knot on one of them or wrap the end of the wire with electrical tape.

So, the power wires are connected. We connect one of them to the plus-plus point on the diode bridge, the other to the minus-minus point. That's it, the 12-volt step-down power supply is ready, you can test it. In idle mode, it usually shows a voltage of around 16 volts. But as soon as a load is applied to it, the voltage will drop to 12 volts. If there is a need to set the exact voltage, you will have to connect a stabilizer to the homemade device. As you can see, making a power supply with your own hands is not very difficult.

Of course, this is the simplest scheme; power supplies can have different parameters, with two main ones:

  • Output voltage.
  • As an addition, a function can be used that distinguishes power supply models into regulated (switching) and unregulated (stabilized). The first are indicated by the ability to change the output voltage in the range from 3 to 12 volts. That is, the more complex the designs, the more capabilities the units as a whole have.

    And one last thing. Homemade power supplies are not entirely safe devices. So when testing them, it is recommended to move some distance away and only after that connect them to a 220-volt network. If you calculate something inaccurately, for example, choose the wrong capacitor, then there is a high probability that this element will simply explode. It is filled with electrolyte, which during an explosion will spray over a considerable distance. In addition, you should not make replacements or soldering while the power supply is turned on. A lot of voltage collects on the transformer, so don't play with fire. All modifications must be carried out only with the device turned off.