Signal from VAZ 2110. Repair of sound signals on VAZ cars of various modifications. Possible malfunctions: signs and causes

If the warning signal on the VAZ-2110 does not work, including the fan, you should not immediately contact a service station.

Other common causes

Quite often you can find the following causes of problems:

The sound signal may disappear due to worn-out clamping contacts located on the steering column. To prevent rapid wear of the wires, experts recommend periodically lubricating them with graphite lubricant, after removing the steering wheel of the car. Such treatment will help not only prevent wear of the element, but will also extend their performance;
Worn contact steering ring can also cause the horn to fail. To eliminate it, you will need to carry out similar measures that were described in the previous paragraph;
Quite often the signal on the VAZ-2110 stops functioning due to oxidation of the steering internal contacts. Since a lot of deposits accumulate on the elements, they become an obstacle to the sound signal, so the car horn stops working. To eliminate the breakdown, it will be enough to disassemble the car’s steering wheel, carefully clean the internal contacts and correctly assemble the steering wheel.

The standard sound signal of the VAZ 2110 is not particularly loud and sometimes it is not enough for you to be noticed. That is why, instead of the standard beep, many install alternative beeps, for example, from a Volga car. Before installation, you should make sure that the sound signal level is not higher than 120 dB, otherwise it will be problematic to pass maintenance. How to make the beep louder? You can completely replace the standard horn or install additional horns in the engine compartment of the car.

You can install a signal from the Volga in different ways. A simple replacement is not enough here. The fact is that two wires are suitable for the standard sound signal of the VAZ 2110 - positive and negative: the ground is supplied through the body, and the positive wire supplies current constantly, in addition, it also powers the radiator fan.
For the signal from the Volga to work, only one wire is needed - positive. The minus is supplied through the body. In addition, different current consumption occurs here. The standard sound signal of a VAZ 2110 consumes 5 amperes, and the signal from the Volga consumes 8 amperes. That is why we will use a 4-pin relay here. The relay can be mounted inside the passenger compartment in the fuse box or in the engine compartment
To install a relay inside the cabin of a VAZ 2110, we need the sound signal itself, a single-core wire, a wide female terminal, a 4-pin 30 ampere relay and a relay block. The sound signal from the Volga is larger than the standard one, so it is better to install it through brackets so that vibration does not spoil the sound quality.

It is preferable to install in a free slot in the fuse box.

At pin 85 we connect the wire from the connector of the 13-pin relay (horn switch on the steering wheel). If you look at the diagram, it is indicated in gray-black color, but in the photo it is white. We connect the wire from the 87th contact of the relay to the free space.

In order to supply the positive wire, we pass the wire from connector “Ш5-6” to the 30th contact of the relay and through the jumper to contact 86.

Plus, the signal is sent when the beep button is pressed; it is sent through pin 87. We do not use the red-white wire for signals, so current is supplied to it, and accordingly, it needs to be insulated. The advantages of this method: the relay is located in the mounting block, which means moisture will not get there; The standard wiring is located under the hood, we take the direct current separately, that is, we do not take it from the radiator fan.
Now consider the case of installing a relay in the engine compartment. There are differences here from the first option, because all work will be carried out in the engine compartment. We use the same materials, only you will additionally need to purchase: a hanging fuse, 8 pieces of female terminals, a two-meter plastic tube. We place the horn in a convenient place, and connect the wiring according to any of the presented diagrams:

In the first scheme, we take the current from the fuse block, through its fuse, and in the second scheme, the plus is used directly from the battery, through a separate 20-amp fuse. It is recommended to use the second circuit to connect horns from the Volga to the VAZ 2110.
It is advisable to place the relay in a place where moisture will not get into it. It wouldn't hurt to wrap the relay with electrical tape or at least cover it with a bag.

We take a 8mm wrench and unscrew the 2 bolts securing the radiator grille, unclip the 2 lower latches, and remove the grille. We dismantle the standard sound signal and assemble the wiring according to the diagram. We carefully isolate all connections, and put the wire connecting the signals to each other into the corrugation. We fix the relay in a suitable place and put the radiator grill back.

Owners of cars of the same name often encounter a problem - the signal on the VAZ 2110 does not work. This is a rather unpleasant situation, especially in large cities - the traffic flow is oversaturated, and in these conditions there is only one way to declare yourself - by sounding a sound signal. This quite often allows you to avoid serious troubles, considering, moreover, that pedestrians react only to this sound, not paying attention to either markings or traffic lights.

Possible causes and solutions

The signal does not work on the VAZ 2110 - what are the causes of the malfunction? There are two main reasons: failure of the corresponding fuse and failure of the sound signal itself. In the first case, the problem is solved by replacing the fuse located in the mounting block.

By the way, fuse replacement– the first action that must be taken if there is no response to pressing the signal. , repairs have been completed. We congratulate ourselves on our success and go about our interrupted business.

True, sophisticated car enthusiasts strive to establish the cause of the blown fuse - perhaps it is caused by a short circuit in the car's electrical network, and thus the failure of the fuse is not a cause, but a consequence.

This requires a thorough study, which is inappropriate to describe here - specialists themselves will easily figure out what’s going on, but beginners still cannot eliminate wiring defects ( I'll have to take the car to a service center). The last action is recommended when the fuse blows again after a short time.

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The second reason is much more labor-intensive. To diagnose the health of the sound signal, you need to connect it directly to the battery and check its functionality. In the negative case, we get a clear answer: the sound signal has failed for some reason.

The easiest way– buy and install a new one (again, domestic mechanics can try to fix it themselves, calling on their skills to help).

But there are times when, having connected a signal to a battery, we can ascertain its functionality. Obviously, the reason for the refusal is something else.

It could be:

violation of wiring integrity;
lack of contact between the movable terminals and the slip ring.

In the first case, we call both wires along their entire length (or simply visually determine the location of the damage).

In the second case, first, let's deal with the wires. It is quite simple to determine the “plus” one - it ends in the mounting block. First, we bridge both wires.

If the signal works, then we are convinced that the diagnosis is correct: there is no contact between the slip ring and the terminals. The problem can be resolved quite simply: you need to loosen the fixing nut and slightly move the steering column switch block slightly up - this will provide the necessary touch and, as a result, contact.

If the signal does not work after bridging the wires, then we carefully check the integrity of the wires in the entire electrical circuit.

A non-functioning horn on a car is a very dangerous malfunction. The most unpleasant thing is that they find out about this breakdown just when the signal is needed most - in a dangerous situation on the road. What could cause the signal to fail?

There are several reasons why the horn may stop working. Almost all of them are electrical and simply involve no contact where it should be. Let's go through them all:

Horn fuse blown

The very first and easiest check that can be performed when the sound signal is not working is the integrity of the fuse. If it turns out to be burnt, then it is possible in the car. Try inserting a whole fuse corresponding to the rating (). If it burns out in the same way, it means there is actually a short circuit. If not, then perhaps the fuse has simply exhausted its resource and you should pay attention to other reasons.

The horn button does not work

The signal in most cars is turned on by a button in the center of the steering wheel. There are variations with a button in the steering column switch or a certain position of this switch itself, but this is rare.

There are actually a whole bunch of places inside the steering wheel where contact can be lost, leading to the failure of the horn. To understand exactly where they can be located, you need to understand how the sound signal in the car turns on. Let's look at the diagram.

Diagram for connecting an audio signal via a relay

This circuit assumes the presence of a signal activation relay. This relay is found on all modern cars. On a certain category of cars (for example, VAZ classics), there is no relay. In this case, the signal is connected directly through the button on the steering wheel.

The control current from the relay is transmitted from the steering column to the steering wheel through a floating contact. There may be one, or maybe two. These contacts rub against a special conductive ring built into the steering wheel at the point where it is attached to the steering shaft. Due to the fact that the contacts are spring-loaded, they are constantly pressed against the ring, ensuring the transmission of current to the steering wheel in any position.

ATTENTION! It is better to entrust all work related to disassembling the steering wheel on cars with airbags to a car service center. Unskilled actions can cause the airbag to deploy, which can lead to life-threatening injuries!

— Worn contacts

The pressure contacts on the steering column rub against the slip ring whenever you move the steering wheel and wear out over time. Sooner or later, a moment may come when they can no longer reach the contact ring on the steering wheel and then pressing the horn button will lead to nothing. To avoid this, during any repairs it is necessary to lubricate the contacts and the ring on the steering wheel with a conductive lubricant, for example, graphite. Such treatment will reduce the friction of the contacts on the ring and extend their service life.

— Worn slip ring

Exactly the same malfunction can befall the conductive ring in the steering wheel. It can also wear out and lead to signal failure. The method of struggle is the same - lubricant.

The wear of the clamping contacts or slip ring has an insidious property: due to uneven wear, the contact may disappear only at certain steering wheel positions. For example, when driving straight, the signal works, but when turning, it does not. Such symptoms almost always clearly indicate problems in the contact pair “steering column - steering wheel”.

Worn contacts and a ring in the steering wheel, as a rule, cannot be repaired. Therefore, the best solution is to replace these elements with new ones.

— Oxidized contacts inside the steering wheel

Another “steering” problem is the oxidation of internal contacts. Due to the large amount of oxides, a sufficient amount of current cannot pass through the contacts inside the steering wheel and the sound signal is silent. You need to disassemble the steering wheel and clean the contacts.

Horn relay or wiring failure

The next group of reasons for a malfunctioning sound signal is broken wiring or a failed relay. The wires in the signal power circuit can be simply broken, pinched, or even disconnected during major repairs. Often during reassembly, the wires are connected incorrectly or not connected at all. Make sure that all wires responsible for the signal are connected correctly. On a number of cars, the horn is located too low, which is why it ends up in slush and water during transitional seasons. Mixtures that are used to sprinkle roads against ice in winter are also added here. Under such conditions, the signal itself can oxidize and even rot the wires. Check this place out.

If your car has a horn relay, then it is worth checking it. Find where this relay is located using your car's complete wiring diagram and do an experiment: press the horn button and listen. If the relay clicks, it means it is probably working properly. Silent - you need to check the presence of voltage at the relay control contacts when the button is pressed.

Failed horn

If the relay still clicks, check for voltage on the signal itself. Here you will have to work with an assistant: one holds the signal button, and the other checks the voltage. The test can be done with a regular test light or a multimeter, which is more reliable. The multimeter is able to show a weak voltage, which will be a sign of heavily oxidized contacts in the signal power circuit or.

If voltage arrives, the “mass” signal wire has no oxides and is securely connected to the body, and the signal is silent, it means it has burned out. In this case, as a rule, the “beep” has to be replaced.

Operating a car with a faulty sound signal is prohibited.. At the same time, on cars of the “tenth” family, the horn may stop working for no apparent reason. Potential “+12” is connected to one of the horn wires. And the second terminal should close to ground when the key is pressed. Let's look at why the signal on the VAZ-2112 does not work, and for this we will check the control points.

Sometimes it is possible to restore contact with ground without removing the steering wheel. An example is shown in the video.

The owners of cars of the “tenth” family are to some extent lucky: but there is only a switch. The proof is given below.

Standard wiring diagram

The first step is to check fuse F7. In the mounting block it is in the top row (seventh from the left).

Voltage “+12” is applied to one of the fuse terminals. Check it out!

If the fuse is good, potential “+12” should be at one of the horn terminals. Let's take a look under the hood...

Audio module connector

Disconnect the connector and check both terminals with a tester. We connect the second probe of the voltmeter to the negative of the battery.

The standard reason why the signal does not work on the VAZ-2112 is this: the “positive” voltage is connected, but the contact with the “ground” is broken. Most often the problem lies in the switch.

We diagnose the sound signal

It all starts with the connector pins:

Let's say the voltage “+12” is not caused on both contacts. Then look for a short circuit or break point, starting from terminal 6-Ш5 (diagram above).
If positive voltage is received, check the second terminal. It will contact ground when you press the horn button. During this check, the battery must be disconnected.
If the previous two steps are completed successfully, then voltage is supplied to the horn. It may need to be replaced or the contacts cleaned.

Removing the steering wheel

If “step 2” is not successful, you need to remove the steering wheel. The two copper strips should “close” when pressed - everything is clear here. The test is carried out with an ohmmeter, and if necessary, the switch is replaced.

Steering wheel after dismantling

When the steering wheel is removed, you can clean the contact tracks. The wire contacts in the column must also be clean.

Dismantling from start to finish

First you need to unscrew the two screws under the trim. Having removed the plastic, you can see the contact plate - perhaps that was the problem.

First step in dismantling

Try cleaning the contacts and performing “step 2” again. If there is no result, take a 24mm wrench and unscrew one nut (not all the way).

The steering wheel needs to be knocked off its splines

The steering wheel is pushed towards itself. And then the nut can be unscrewed completely.

When installing, follow one rule. The protrusion on the bracket should fit into the slot made in the plastic ring (see photo).

Steering wheel installation (first step)

How to remove a faulty signal (horn)

There is a single module mounted under the radiator grille. To remove it, unscrew one nut (key “13”). First disconnect the connector.

Dismantling, adjustment before installation

It will be necessary to remove the grille. This action is difficult to perform on both the “Ten” and even on the VAZ-2112, and the signal may not work due to faulty wiring. First achieve what was discussed in “step 3”. And only then, if necessary, proceed with replacement.

One adjusting screw is fixed to the horn body. Set it to the middle position and check.

Removing the radiator grille

The article number of the new radiator grille is 2110-8401014 (or 8401614, or 8401714).