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VAZ 2103 removal of the generator bracket. Replacing the generator: description of the process with comments. The main reasons for replacing the relay

From a practical point of view, the generator plays a key role in maintaining power supply. It is he who ensures the functioning of all electronics located in the car.
Replacing a VAZ 2110 generator is quite common, since there are a number of factors that contribute to premature failure of the system. Objectively speaking, a technical malfunction always awaits a car, even a very high-quality one.
In this case, replacing the generator on a VAZ 2110 is a common task and can be done on your own.

General practical information about the car generator that every car enthusiast should know

A practical look at the functioning of a generator:

The main function of a car generator is to create electrical current from mechanical energy;
ensuring the functioning of all electronic systems of the car;
serves as a battery charger;
provides the car engine with the required amount of electrical energy (current);
If the generator is in a faulty condition, the battery will quickly discharge without charging and the car engine will not be able to be powered.

Note. Before you start replacing the generator, you need to have it checked to really make sure that it is in a faulty condition.

What should be checked first:

belt tension degree;

visually check for cracks or any breaks.

At the same time, it is necessary to check the condition of the belt itself. To do this, you will need to press on its conditional center and measure the degree of deflection, which normally should not exceed 0.2 cm.

Note. You should also not forget about the tension rollers, and they need to be checked for difficulties in scrolling. If during the inspection such a pattern was discovered, then they need to be lubricated or completely replaced. It all depends on the difficulty of scrolling.

Algorithm for checking the proper functioning of a car generator

Before proceeding directly to the inspection itself, it will be necessary to prepare the appropriate tools and equipment, namely:

to measure the degree of voltage - a voltmeter;
to measure the resistance value - a rheostat;
to measure current - an ammeter.

Next to the speedometer there is an indicator of the cylinder speed - a tachometer. Normally, the speed should not be lower than 2000-5000 revolutions for one minute.
Main objective indicators of generator malfunction:

the generated current has a very low voltage value;
the car generator itself (see) does not generate electric current at all;
the generator indicator light is constantly on on the dashboard, indicating a malfunction;
the car generator began to produce too much electrical energy;
Extraneous noises are heard immediately after the generator starts operating.

Note. Before replacing the generator, it must be removed, otherwise the working field will be too small and it will not be possible to carry out at least local repairs efficiently, if such is possible at all.

Stages of work when removing the generator

So:

first, the first thing you need to do is disconnect the battery and all the terminals that were connected to it;
then use the help to turn the wheels to the right;

sometimes the engine has a crankcase protection; if there is one, it must be removed;
unscrew all fastening nuts;
there is a special tension screw on the bracket; it needs to be loosened;
after which, it’s time to loosen the alternator belt; to do this, you will need to turn the alternator itself slightly to the side;

Now removing the belt is not difficult;
there is a wire coming from terminal “D”, it must be unsoldered;
wire “B” is secured with a nut, it also needs to be removed by first removing the rubber cap from the nut;
it's time to unscrew the main tension screw;
at the top of the generator there is a special fastener that must be temporarily removed in order to be able to remove the tension bar;
Now you can remove the generator by first unscrewing the lower component of the fastening.

Algorithm for carrying out the procedure for replacing a car generator

So:

first you need to remove the new generator from the box;
there is a nut on the spacer sleeve; you need to insert the generator bolt into it to secure its lower edge;

The tension bar and the upper mount of the car generator must be connected to each other by pulling them through the bracket;
now it's time to screw the main tension screw into place;
Using the markings, connect the terminals to the battery.

Note.
Tensioning the alternator belt is the most critical replacement stage, so this procedure should be carried out with special attention. Alternator belt tension algorithm

the tension belt must be returned to its rightful position, namely put on the crankshaft pulley and directly on the generator itself;
The tension screw should be screwed in until the belt tension reaches the required level.

Note. It is necessary to check the belt while tensioning with your hand so as not to overtighten it.

now it’s time to tighten all the fastening nuts;
The main thing is to create a moderate degree of belt tension.

Note. It is imperative to check that the distance of the belt to the generator after tension does not exceed the degree of stretching of 0.2 cm.

The instructions for replacing the generator with your own hands are not difficult, even if the car has power steering, because the main thing is to strictly follow the steps of implementation. Photos and videos - materials will answer all the questions that arose while reading the instructions.
The cost of self-replacement is 4-5 times lower than repairs at a car service center. The main thing is to carefully read each point and always adhere to the correct algorithm of actions.

The generator device recharges the battery and powers electrical equipment while the vehicle is moving. Repairs should be carried out when the first signs of a malfunction appear in order to prevent complete failure of the unit.

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Generator circuit for VAZ 2110

Three-phase automobile generators for the VAZ 2110 have the following device:

1 — protective casing of the installation;
2 — contact output B+, intended for connecting electrical appliances;
3 - capacitor device rated at 2.2 μF and designed to suppress interference;
4 - common output for additional diode elements, it is connected to contact D+ on the voltage regulator;
5 — holder of positive diode elements of the rectifier device;
6 — holder of negative diodes;
7 — terminals of the stator assembly winding;
8 - regulatory device designed to equalize the voltage;
9 — brush mechanism;
10 — rear cover of the unit;
11 — front cover;
12 — core of the stator device;
13 — winding of the stator unit;
14 — spacer ring;
15 — fixing washer;
16 — conical washer;
17 - shaft on which the drive belt is installed;
18 - nut;
19 — pulley of the rotor device;
20 - front bearing element mounted on the shaft of the rotor assembly;
21 — beak-shaped pole pieces of the rotor device;
22 - winding;
23 - bushing;
24 - coupling bolt, designed for better fixation of components;
25 — rear bearing device of the rotor mechanism;
26 — bushing of the bearing element;
27 — installation slip rings;
28 - negative diode element;
29 - positive diode element;
30 - additional diode device;
31 - contact D, is a common terminal for additional diode elements.

Schematic design of a generator set on a VAZ 2110

The generator unit is connected according to the following diagram:

1 - battery;
2 - generator set;
3 — block with safety devices;
4 — ignition switch;
5 - control light, the element is installed in the instrument panel.

Connection diagram of the generator with other components in the car

Principle of operation

In accordance with the diagram, the operating principle of the installation is as follows:

The driver places the key in the ignition switch.
Current is transferred to the excitation circuit.
The armature element generates a magnetic field, which is subsequently fed through the windings of the stator mechanism. As a result, voltage appears at its contacts.
When the rotation speed of the anchor device increases, the self-excitation mode begins in the generator set.
The rectifier unit, located inside the unit, converts alternating current into direct current.
The voltage regulator comes into operation when the crankshaft speed begins to change. The time parameters at which the excitation wire is turned on are configured.

How to identify generator malfunctions?

Before checking the generator of a VAZ 2110 car, it is important to consider the following:

Diagnostics of the unit operation is carried out using the short circuit method. The unit is checked for spark.
When checking, do not connect contacts B+ to ground D+.
Operation of the generating set without activated energy consumers is not allowed. The unit cannot be turned on if the battery is disconnected from the on-board network.
When performing welding work on the car body, the battery and generator set conductors must be disconnected.
To diagnose the operation of the device, an ammeter or voltmeter is required.
The procedure for checking the operation of the valves is carried out by applying a voltage whose power is no more than 12 volts.
Before you begin diagnosing the device, you need to make sure the quality and functionality of all connections, as well as the correct tension of the drive belt. It is optimal if, when pressing on the middle of the product with a force of about 10 kgf, the degree of deflection is no more than 1.5 cm.

Sequence of steps when checking the generator yourself

The device diagnostic procedure is performed as follows:

The car engine starts, the power unit should run for several minutes. The driver presses the gas pedal so that the engine speed increases to approximately 3 thousand per minute.
All electrical devices are activated. It is necessary to turn on the rear window heating system, the heater ventilator, optics, wipers, and light alarm.
The voltage parameter is measured at the battery terminals. The working value should be at least 13 volts. Otherwise, diagnostics of the windings of the generator device is required. Most likely, an open circuit or short circuit has occurred, so the elements must be replaced or rewinded. The problem may be oxidation of the slip rings on the field windings or a breakdown of the brush mechanism.
Diagnostics of the operation of the valves of the rectifier device is carried out by disconnecting the conductors from the battery and generator unit. You also need to disconnect the cable from the D+ terminal of the regulator device. The positive contact of the battery is connected through a light source (with a power of approximately 1-5 W, rated at 12 volts) to the B+ contact. The negative terminal is connected to the car body.
As a result of the connection, the indicator light comes on, then the problem may be a short circuit. It should be looked for in the blocks of positive and negative valves.
To diagnose the presence of a short circuit in the positive valves, the positive contact of the battery is connected through a light source to the B+ terminal on the generator set. The negative terminal is connected to the contact element of one of the phase windings of the stator mechanism. If a light bulb lights up, the problem should be looked for in one or several positive valves at once; they may be broken.
To diagnose a short circuit in the negative outputs, the positive contact of the battery is connected to the stator through a light bulb. The negative terminal should be connected to the generator set frame. When turning on the light source, the problem must be looked for in the negative valves. There is a possibility that the windings of the stator mechanism are shorted to the generator set housing.
To prevent this problem, the unit must be dismantled. After removal, the windings are disconnected from the regulatory and rectifier devices. These elements are checked for ground using a tester or a light source. To diagnose valves, you can use an ohmmeter; for this you do not need to connect the battery and indicator light.

User Denis MECHANIC told the domestic “tens”.

How to check the generator bearings yourself?

Repair of the VAZ 2110 generator should also be carried out when the bearing devices are worn out:

Before checking, a visual diagnosis of parts is performed. It is necessary to make sure that there are no mechanical damages or cracks on the elements and in the clips. There should be no traces of corrosion or the consequences of its impact on bearing devices.
Then the clearance and ease of rotation of the components are checked. When scrolling, bearing parts should not make noise. In case of serious wear or damage to the elements, the structural components must be replaced.
To diagnose the rear bearing component, the outer ring of the device must be rocked in different directions, and then sharply twisted. Rotation of the part must be free; gaps and jamming are not allowed. Otherwise the element changes.
To check the front bearing device, hold the generator set shaft with your hand and rotate the front cover in different directions. If a component becomes stuck or noise occurs when it rotates, the part is replaced.

Relay fault

Malfunctions in the operation of the voltage regulator can be indicated by flickering optics. When the generator is not working and the relay is faulty, the headlights shine dimly, but as the speed increases, their brightness increases.

How to check the generator relay?

Problems with the generator can only be accurately determined using a tester. Visual diagnosis of damage does not always provide an accurate result.

Diagnostic features:

To check, you will need a tester - a multimeter or voltmeter. The device must be configured in advance to operate in the range from 0 to 20 volts.
The tester probes are connected to the battery; there is no need to start the power unit. Readings are being taken. Depending on the condition of the battery, the resulting value should be from 12 to 12.8 volts.
Then the power unit starts, the readings are read again. The voltage should increase to 13.2-14.7 volts. It all depends on the crankshaft speed. As they increase, the voltage value will increase. On average, this figure can be 13.5-14 volts, and at high speeds - up to 14.5 volts. If the voltage does not increase when you press the gas pedal, the relay must be replaced.
The dismantled control device can be diagnosed by connecting a test light between the brushes of the unit. The DC power supply is connected to the D+ and ground pins. First, the supply value should be 12 volts, and then this parameter increases to 15-16 volts. At low voltage the light source should light up, and at high voltage it should go out.
If the indicator light is always on, regardless of the value of the operating parameter, then a breakdown has been detected in the control device. Failure to turn on the light bulb when connecting indicates a break or broken contact between the brushes and the terminals of the element. A part needs to be replaced.

Alexander Dmitriev showed the diagnostic procedure for the generator relay on a VAZ 2110.

The main reasons for replacing the relay

Cause	Description
No charging current to battery	The battery is not charging. The problem is usually caused by poor-quality connection of conductors to the terminals of the regulatory device or a break in the electrical circuit in the area from the unit to the battery. To solve the problem, you need to properly fix the cables on the line
When the battery is charged, the charging current is insufficient	The current may be too high when the battery is charged. This is due to a malfunction of the device. To solve the problem, it is configured or replaced
Burning or burnout of high-intensity lighting sources	The problem is caused by a maladjustment of the device or a short circuit of the contact elements. To eliminate the malfunction, disconnect or clean the shorted terminals. If necessary, the relay is changed
Malfunctions in the on-board network	The voltage in the machine's electrical network is unstable. The car's headlights flicker, and as the speed increases, the light from the optical instruments evens out. It is necessary to diagnose the operation of the battery, as well as the voltage regulator
Increased battery discharge current after stopping the engine	This problem occurs when the contact elements of the regulatory device, electrical circuit are closed, or the spring part fails. The solution to the problem is to find and eliminate the short circuit with the battery turned off. It is also necessary to diagnose and adjust the current limiting device, open and clean the contact elements. If the spring is damaged, the backlash of the part is adjusted, as well as the tension

How to dismantle the generator on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands?

The procedure for dismantling the generator unit is performed only with the battery disconnected.

Where is the best place to carry out work to remove the generator?

It is recommended to remove and repair the generator set in a garage or other enclosed area. This will prevent moisture and dust from getting into the structure from the street. To complete the task, a pit will be required, since some of the work will be performed from under the bottom of the car.

What tools, equipment and supplies will be required?

To carry out dismantling you will need:

socket wrenches in sizes 10 and 13;
a set of ratchet handles or knobs.

How to remove the generator? Step-by-step instructions for car owners

Guide to dismantling the device:

The tensioner nut is unscrewed.
The generator unit moves slightly back, towards the vehicle interior. The drive belt is removed from the pulleys. Then the electrical power circuits of the device are turned off. One block with wires is fixed with a nut and a stud; they must be unscrewed and disconnected. The second connector is attached using a regular block, which is detached.
After this, the lower nut securing the assembly is unscrewed. This action is performed from under the bottom of the car. To complete the task, it is necessary to dismantle the power unit protection, if any.
The screw that needs to be removed is usually fastened tightly. When unscrewing it, you need to treat the part with WD-40 if it is stuck and cannot be removed. You can use a hammer to remove the retainer.
Then, from the reverse side, this element is removed completely.
At the final stage, the nut that secures the tensioning device is completely unscrewed. The generator unit is moved to the side, this will allow it to be completely dismantled.

Repair of generator on VAZ 2110

To carry out repairs, the generator must be completely disassembled.

If it is necessary to replace the conductors of the VAZ 2110 generator, the car owner must select only those cables that correspond to the length and cross-section.

Belt adjustment

To adjust the belt, follow these steps:

Use a wrench to loosen the tightening of the nuts on the lower and upper fastenings of the generator device.
To perform tension, the assembly is moved away from the internal combustion engine cylinder block; for this, the adjusting screw is turned clockwise. To loosen the strap, the bolt is turned in the opposite direction, only the generator device moves towards the BC. The approximate play between the threaded surface for the adjustment bolt and the black frame should be about 1.3-2 cm.
Using a key, the crankshaft of the power unit is turned by the screw that secures the pulley two turns. Scrolling is done clockwise. Then the strap is re-diagnosed. If necessary, it is adjusted.
Upon completion of the work, the nuts securing the assembly are tightened.

The channel “In Sandro’s Garage” showed in detail the process of adjusting the tension of the drive belt on “ten” generators.

Repair of brushes and regulator

The brush assembly repair procedure looks like this:

Using a construction brush, the outer surface of the generator unit is cleaned.
If there is a compressor, the housing is purged. If it is not available, a vacuum cleaner may be used.
Further steps to disassemble the device are performed on a workbench or clean table. The generator unit is installed on the working surface with the shaft down.
Using a flat-tip screwdriver, carefully release the three spring-loaded metal clips. The plastic cover located on the back of the device body is removed.
Using a Phillips-blade screwdriver, unscrew the bolts securing the brush holder. This element is carefully dismantled. When performing the task, you must be careful not to damage the brush assembly.
The central terminal of the electrical circuit is disconnected from the mechanism.
The nut is unscrewed from the screw of the contact elements. The spring part is removed.
The second washer is being dismantled. The conductor connected to the capacitor device is disconnected from the contact screws. Then the screw that secures the part is unscrewed. The capacitor element is dismantled.
Before installing a new brush mechanism, it is necessary to diagnose the main elements of the device. The brushes should be located 0.5 cm from the body of the holder itself. When performing a task, it is recommended to immediately check the capacitor device.

To repair the control device, do the following:

Three spring elements are disconnected. The protective cover located on the diode bridge is dismantled.
The two bolts that secure the control device are unscrewed. To complete the task you will need a Phillips head screwdriver.
The block with the conductor is disconnected from the output of the regulatory device. The part is dismantled and replaced with a new one. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

The MegaMeyhem channel talked about the procedure for repairing and replacing the regulatory device on domestic “ten” generators.

Replacing the generator on a VAZ 2110 and its components

The procedure for replacing the generator set is carried out in the reverse order of removal. Before performing this task, you need to purchase a standard device, since it will fit in size and brackets for fixation.

In what cases is it necessary to replace bearings?

Replacement of the bearing elements will be required if an uncharacteristic hum or noise appears during operation of the generator set. Detailed device diagnostics are described above. When checking the parts, you need to make sure that they rotate without jamming and that there are no gaps.

How to replace bearings yourself?

To complete the task, do the following:

The front and rear covers of the unit are disconnected. It is recommended to mark them with a marker so as not to confuse them during installation.
Four screws are unscrewed; for this you need an 8 key.
The covers are detachable and require a flat head screwdriver. The rear cover with the winding of the stator device is dismantled.
To remove the front bearing device, apply an object of appropriate size to it. It is allowed to use a 27mm head or other product. Using a hammer, the bearing part is knocked out of its seat.
The installation site of the device is treated with lubricant.
Installation of a new part is carried out using the old bearing. This element is applied on top, after which the new component is installed by hammering the component with gentle hammer blows around the perimeter.
To remove the rear bearing element, you will need a puller; if it is not available, you can use an open-end wrench of the appropriate size. The part must be picked up with a tool.
Using a hammer, you need to knock on the key. This bearing device is dismantled from the pulley of the rotor mechanism. The installation procedure is performed in reverse order. For installation, a piece of pipe of the required size is used. Using a hammer, the part is pressed onto the pulley of the rotor mechanism.

Replacing the rectifier device

The procedure is performed using a set of spanners and a Phillips head screwdriver:

Three screws are unscrewed, with the help of which the terminals of the windings of the stator device are fixed to the diode bridge. To do this, use an 8 key. Then unscrew another screw that secures the rectifier unit. When dismantling, you need to remember how the washers are placed.
The conductors of the winding terminals of the stator device are moved to the side.
The bolt that secures the capacitor device is unscrewed. To do this, use a screwdriver with a Phillips blade.
The rectifier with capacitor is removed. The two nuts of the contact screw are unscrewed; for this you will need a 10mm wrench. Two bushings are disconnected from the bolt, then it is removed from the rectifying device. The contact screw is removed from the capacitor. The mechanism is being replaced.

Semyon Pedan spoke in detail about the nuances of replacing the diode bridge of the generator device on a VAZ 2110 car.

In what cases does the 2110 generator need to be replaced with a new one?

A complete replacement of the generating unit will be required if repair of the unit is impossible. Replacing the unit may be necessary if the brackets used to secure it are damaged. Finding new fixation elements on sale is problematic.

What is preferable: repair and modification of the generator or its complete replacement?

In case of minor damage to the device, from a financial point of view, it is advisable to carry out repairs, since it will cost several times less.

The only option for modifying the generator device would be to install an additional voltage relay or upgrade it. But the problem is not always the operation of the regulator.

Modification of the generator control device

Modernization of the regulatory device on the “tens” looks like this:

To complete the modification, two regulatory elements will be required. One is standard, and the second can be used from a foreign car. The latter should have a power of 14.5 volts.
The so-called tablet is disconnected from the standard device; as a result, the body of the brush assembly with the brushes themselves should be on hand. After this, a similar part is removed from the foreign-made relay and installed in the body of the standard device. The contact elements of the device are soldered to the relay body.
Before any modifications can be made, the leads of the components must be bent. This will allow the contacts of the tablets to be adapted to the body of the regulatory element. The part is fixed using ordinary screws. Soldering is done using a soldering iron, and the solder must be done so that the element is completely covered with tin.
Then the nuts on the parts must be sealed, otherwise during movement they may unscrew randomly when exposed to vibrations.

Video

The “Do It Yourself” channel spoke in detail about the procedure for finalizing the control device of the generator set on the “ten”.

Replacing a VAZ 2107 generator yourself is a rather complicated procedure. Sometimes, when removing an old generator, serious problems arise due to the fact that the bolted connections and fastenings tightly “stick” to each other. Therefore, before starting work, you need to thoroughly prepare and stock up not only with tools, but also with the popular WD-40 liquid, which allows you to “free” rusted nuts.

How to remove a VAZ 2107 generator

The VAZ 2107 generator is located in a rather inconvenient place. To make it easier to access, it is better to carry out work on a lift or pit. Before starting work, it is necessary to de-energize the vehicle's electrical systems by disconnecting the battery terminals. Further actions are performed in the following sequence:

Remove the engine protection and the right front fender liner.
Disconnect the wires from the generator (you must remember how they were connected.
Loosen the nut holding the generator and remove the belt from it.
Unscrew the nut from the bolt securing the generator to the bracket. If it is rusty, use WD-40.
Remove the mounting bolt. If it does not come out, it must be treated with WD-40 and carefully knocked out.
Remove the generator.

If, despite your efforts, you cannot disconnect the generator from the bracket, you will have to remove it along with it. To do this, you need to unscrew 2 (or, depending on the design, 3 bolts) securing the bracket to the engine.

Next, in order to ensure the removal of the VAZ 2107 generator along with the bracket, you will have to move the radiator. There is no need to drain the antifreeze, disconnect the pipes and remove the radiator from the car. It is enough to unscrew its fastenings and move it, providing free access to the bracket and generator.

When removing the generator, you can do without an inspection hole or lift by removing the generator through the wheel arch. This method is only suitable if the bolts and nuts are not rusty and it is possible to remove the generator without a mounting bracket.

How to install a VAZ 2107 radiator

Installing the generator is not particularly difficult, since there is no need to deal with rusted bolted connections. The procedure for installation is the reverse of removal. After installing the generator, you need to install the belt and tension it. If you tighten it loosely, the belt will slip when the generator is loaded, producing a characteristic whistle. Excessive belt tension will cause premature wear of the alternator bearing. It is easy to check the correct tension of the belt: it must be rotated by hand along the longitudinal axis by 90 degrees. If the angle is smaller, the belt will be tightened. If more, it is weakened.

After installing the generator, connecting the wires to it and tensioning the belt, you can connect the battery terminals.

Everything is ready for testing. You can start the engine. The functionality of the generator can be checked with a voltmeter by measuring the voltage on the battery. When the car engine is running, the on-board voltage should be 14 volts.

A car's alternator is an important mechanism, without which you won't get far if it breaks down. As a rule, if it has stopped recharging the car battery or is malfunctioning, you should check it first. If the belt is in order, then you need to start removing, disassembling and repairing the generator, because buying a new one will be much more expensive than replacing some worn parts (they are very cheap). In fact, the procedure is not complicated, but a little painstaking, the main thing is to assemble everything correctly.

We repaired the generator on a VAZ 2110 car (the procedure is similar for 2111, 2112), if you have a model 2106, then see. There are some differences there.

Procedure for disassembling and repairing a car generator:

2. Make a longitudinal mark on the generator body with a marker; it will be useful later during assembly.

3. Use the handles to press out the three latches on the top cover.

4. Remove it.

5. Unscrew the 2 screws that secure the voltage regulator.

6. Disconnect the wire from the regulator terminal.

7. Now carefully remove it with the brush holder.

8. Unscrew the screw that secures the capacitor and 4 more that secure the unit itself.

10. Now remove the rectifier unit with the capacitor.

11. Now, from the rectifier unit, unscrew the nut from the contact bolt, remove the washer with the spacer fork and replace the capacitor. Remove the capacitor wire lug from the contact bolt.

12. Unscrew the 4 screws under which there are spring and flat washers. It's tight!

14. Press the generator rotor in a vice (to prevent it from spinning) and unscrew the nut that holds the pulley, and then remove the spring washer and the pulley itself.

15. Remove the thrust washer.

16. On the drive side, remove the rotor from the cover.

17. Now remove the spacer ring from the rotor shaft.

18. Check the slip rings; if they have pronounced defects (scratches, nicks), then they need to be sanded with fine sandpaper. If it is impossible to sand them with sandpaper, then this can be done on a lathe (you just need to remove as small a layer of metal as possible), and then sand them again with fine sandpaper.

19. Next, you need to check the resistance of the rotor winding using an ohmmeter (tester). To do this, you need to connect it to the slip rings. If the tester displays “infinity,” this will mean that there is a break in one of the windings; this can only be corrected by completely replacing the rotor.

20. Then we check with a test lamp whether there is a short circuit in the winding on the rotor body. This is done as follows: turn on a regular incandescent lamp into a 220 V network and lean one wire against the generator body, and the second first on the first ring, and then on the second. In any case, the lamp should not light up. If fire does occur in any of the positions, then the entire rotor should also be replaced with a new one. By the way, in this case you can use a small 12 V lamp and a car battery, it’s easier and safer.

21. Next, if everything is fine with the rotor, we move on to inspecting the stator. On its inner side there should not be any traces of the armature touching the stator. If such symptoms are observed, then only the bearings or the entire generator cover complete with bearings should be replaced.

22. Next, just like with the rotor, we check whether there is a break in the stator winding. We connect the test lamp to alternating current and place the test lamp one by one between all winding terminals. Only in this case should the lamp light up; if at least at one point it does not light up, replace the stator with a new one or just the winding.

23. Now they check the short circuit of the stator windings to the housing. If you connect a test lamp to the terminal of the stator winding, and a wire from the current source to the stator housing, then fire should not occur. If the lamp lights up, then again there is only one way out - replace only the winding or the entire stator.

24. Inspect the drive-side generator cover and bearing assembly. If, when rotating the bearing, play is felt between the rings, rolling or jamming of the rolling elements, the protective rings are damaged or there are traces of lubricant leakage, and cracks are found in the cover, especially in the places where the generator is attached, it is necessary to replace the cover assembly with the bearing (the bearing in the cover is rolled) .

25. On the slip ring side, it is necessary to check the free rotation of the bearing. If, when rotating the bearing, you feel play between the rings, rolling or jamming of the rolling elements, the protective rings are damaged, or there are signs of lubricant leakage, then the bearing must be replaced with a new one. To do this, use a puller to press the bearing off the rotor shaft and press on a new one using a suitable mandrel, applying force to the inner ring of the bearing.

26. Check the cover of the car generator from the side of the slip rings. If it has serious defects, replace it with a new one.

27. Now the most difficult and decisive moment of all your actions is to put everything back together in the order of disassembling the generator. Only at the end close the lid correctly (according to the previously placed mark). Place the spring washer of the generator pulley with its convex side facing the nut, and tighten the latter to a torque of 39–62 N m (3.9–6.2 kgf m).

The repair of the car's generator is now complete, good luck and don't break down again!

Typically, the VAZ 2106 generator must be replaced only in the most exceptional cases, and in case of most malfunctions it is simply repaired. But if this device on your car has completely failed and cannot be repaired, then it is necessary to replace it. To make this repair procedure as simple as possible, below is a list of necessary tools that will help make this operation easier:

Keys for 17 and 19
Heads for 10, 17 and 19
Ratchet handles and knobs
Extension with universal joint

The procedure for removing and installing the generator on a VAZ 2106

Before attempting this repair, disconnect the negative battery terminal. Then you need to disconnect all power wires from the generator itself. First you need to unscrew the terminal securing nut:

Now you can pull out all the other wires and plugs, just pull them to the side with a little effort:

Then we tear off the upper mount of the generator with an ordinary open-end wrench 17, and after that we throw on the head with an extension and a cardan joint to unscrew this nut quickly and without unnecessary effort:

After the nut is completely unscrewed, you need to knock the bolt out. To do this, you can use a wooden block, placing it on the bolt and hitting it several times with a hammer. The photo shows it without a block, but keep in mind that the backing must be present so as not to damage the thread:

After which the bolt can be pulled out by hand. If it is difficult to move, you can resort to penetrating lubricant, spraying it a little in the right place.

Then you can remove the generator from below, as this is more convenient. If it doesn’t give in right away, you can turn it a little in the right direction so that nothing gets in the way when removing it. This is roughly what it looks like in practice, as shown in the photo below:

The price of a new generator for a VAZ 2106 varies from 2,500 rubles and above, it all depends on your wallet. The replacement process is not complicated and installation occurs in the reverse order of removal.