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How much gasoline does Lada Kalina consume - passport and real data. Reviews and test drives of cars Viburnum engine 1.6 89 l with

When buying a car, many car enthusiasts have certain difficulties with choosing a power unit. And long hours of thinking begin about which engine to give preference to, the 8- or 16-valve version. This problem is especially acute if you buy a car on the secondary market. After all, we immediately think about which motor is more economical, has more power and torque after several years of its operation.

Engine design

To get an answer to the question, which engine for VAZ, Renault, Kalina or another brand is better and why you need to study their design and know the principle of operation. Based on the results obtained, it is possible to identify all the advantages and disadvantages of each model and conduct a comparative analysis of them.

8 valve engine

The design of the 8-valve engine is considered traditional. It consists of the following main components:

The principle of operation is to inject the fuel mixture through the intake channel and at the moment of maximum compression ratio of the fuel by the piston, it ignites due to the formation of a spark. The released energy is transmitted through a system of mechanisms to the wheel group.

16 valve engine

The basic layout of this type of engine is somewhat different from the traditional design. These differences lie in the following main components of the motor:

Cylinder block. The arrangement of the cylinders and their number remain the same as in the standard version. That is, four pistons arranged in one row.
Valves. This node is one of the main differences. In this type of internal combustion engine (ICE), the valves are made in pairs. Each cylinder has two intake and two exhaust valves, a total of 4 for one “boiler” and 16 for the entire engine.
Camshaft. In this power unit, to adjust the valves, i.e. For their timely opening and closing, two camshafts are used. Structurally, they are made similar to the one installed in the 8-valve unit.

The operating principle of a 16-valve internal combustion engine is similar to the previous type. The exception is that the fuel mixture is supplied through two intake valves, and exhaust gases are discharged through two exhaust valves.

Having studied the main components of the two types of engines, it is possible to conduct a comparative analysis of these two mechanisms.

Comparison of two types of engines

To compare and determine the best layout, we will select engines of the same volume. As the subject of analysis, we will choose, for example, a 1.6-liter power unit installed on. For a better understanding, the results of comparison of technical characteristics are presented in the form of a table below:

As can be seen from a comparative analysis of two engines of the same volume, but different layouts, the V16 version is faster and has more power.

Attention! The increase in traction force entailed the installation of larger brake discs with a modified design (the presence of ventilation for cooling).

Advantages of an 8-valve engine

By comparing these two types of power units and studying the design, you can determine their advantages and disadvantages. The advantages of an 8-valve engine include:

Broken timing belt. In cases where the belt breaks, the valves do not bend.
Oil. There are no strict quality restrictions during operation.
Availability during renovation. The small dimensions of the power plant provide easy access to different places and to any mechanisms of the car and engine.
Torque. The 8-valve engine type is capable of producing fairly high torque at low engine speeds.

Flaws

The traditional scheme has few disadvantages of its layout. Main disadvantages:

Noise and vibration. An outdated engine model has high noise and vibration during operation.
Thermal clearances. After the service life established by the manufacturer, the power unit requires adjustment of the thermal clearances.
Timing belt. The engine requires periodic adjustment of the timing belt.

Attention! Adjusting thermal clearances requires high precision. It is easy to make mistakes during a manual operation.

Advantages of a 16 valve engine

Like all units, this type of engine has its advantages and disadvantages. Benefits include:

Flaws

Among the disadvantages are the following:

Broken timing belt. In cases where the timing belt breaks, the valves bend, which is associated with large capital investments in repairs.
Bulky. The impressive size of the units limits access to the unit being repaired.
Engine oil. The presence of hydraulic compensators places high demands on the quality of engine oil. The use of low-quality lubricants leads to coking of hydraulic compensators and their premature replacement.
Torque. At low speeds the engine has insufficient torque.

A look at engines from the perspective of safety and efficiency

Many car owners claim that 8-valve engines are safer than their 16-valve counterparts. This is explained by the consequences of a broken timing belt. The improved design of the piston group of the 16-valve 1.8-liter engine, which is installed on modern VAZ, Kalina, Renault and other brands, eliminates this drawback.

Due to fuel injection and combustion waste removal through two valves, it ensures uniform distribution and combustion of the mixture. Because of this, the operation of the 16-valve engine is smooth and economical. At the same time, the technological design of the unit requires expensive professional maintenance.

Advice. Residents of remote areas are better off purchasing 8-valve engines due to their ease of maintenance and repair.

Each car enthusiast must choose for himself which engine is right for him. In this matter, you need to rely on your driving style, financial condition, and maintainability of the installation. Also an important aspect are reviews from consumers and professionals.

Comparison of 8 and 16 valve engines - video

Two of the three front-wheel drive models produced today by AVTOVAZ do not spoil buyers with a variety of engines. “Samara” is equipped with only an 8-valve 1.6-liter engine, and “Priora” is equipped with the same, only 16-valve, with a lightweight connecting rod and piston group. (The “golodranets” modification with an 8-valve does not count.) The only car with the “right of choice by birth” is “Kalina”: 1.6 liters with eight valves (from Samara) or 1.4 liters with sixteen (ZR , 2008, No. 12), and more recently also a “Prior” engine.

Let us remind you that the first one is distinguished by “trolleybus” flexibility - there is no need to frequently change gears, keeping the speed in a narrow range. Almost regardless of the load, the car drives confidently, without particularly straining on inclines. True, this engine does not have a very bright top.

The other, with a volume of 1.4 liters, is completely different. If you drive wisely, you will be pleased with the moderate gas mileage. But his element is drive. To reveal the “baby’s” abilities, you need to keep the speed up and switch every now and then. And yet 89 hp. God knows how much power for a car with a total weight of 1555 kg. If without passengers it is still quite dynamic, then loaded and with the air conditioning running, the image of an energetic car for the young and successful, frankly speaking, does not really correspond. Is it possible to select the entire reserve? After all, up to 100 hp, beyond which the tax “shoots,” there is still room for maneuver! And a suitable engine has been ready for a long time - 1.6 liters, 98 hp, the one that is installed on “Priors”. Changes are only in the attachments. The layout features of the Kalina engine compartment forced the use of the Kalinovsky intake system on the engine, including the air filter housing - of course, with the appropriate engine control calibrations, which, however, did not affect the engine’s performance in any way. All this was done at Kalina-Sport 1.6 in pilot production, from where the development was transferred without changes to the conveyor version of Kalina.

The new engine reconciled the shortcomings of the first two. On the one hand, it moves the car easily, does not force you to change gears too often, and on the other hand, it allows you to accelerate vigorously when overtaking. It's nice to know that the maximum speed is now over one hundred and eighty. But the main thing is that the car finally has the necessary power reserve. Turning on the air conditioner no longer forces you to give up energetic overtaking or move into the right lane so as not to disturb anyone.

There is no such thing as excess power (within reasonable limits, of course), so the new version will appeal to all customers without exception. Nine additional forces raised the price of the car by only 5,268 rubles - six hundred for each “horse”. Where else have you seen such prices!

Good day to all! I'll start with the background to the acquisition of a gray Lada Kalina hatch.

My first car showed up when I called. My uncle gets a call from a dealer I know, who knows that I’m looking for a used car within 100 thousand. There is a VAZ “tenth” from a new year but with a mileage of 30,000 km. in the homeland of bears and earflap hats, in excellent condition, amazing. He says that he already bought it himself, if you need to take it, he won’t outbid him.

In general, I became the owner of a miracle of technology at the end of the last century - the Tenth model, blue (the color, by the way, was excellent!) with a car carburetor (the first time I heard about this, but damn! Fact! It exists, and I drove one) in decent condition with a cassette Sonya and a stench, as if they were smoking shag in the cabin.

Considering that my money was in order at that time, and I was only a few years old, I decided to carry out a complete modernization of the car. But... I was talked out of it. My uncle's friend, who also happens to be an auto technician, recommended that I take my time, drive it, change the oil, and then decide.

I changed the oil, filled it with 5x50 synthetic, sparing no expense.

The first “Achtung” fell a month later. The revolutions began to float. There is no computer in the car, we turned a screw and it seemed to be set up. Then on the Tatar holiday, this sheep made me blush 6 times in the middle of the road. It stalled and refused to start.

They fixed it for 200 rubles, but after a thorough inspection they showed me a list of equipment for replacement for 12,000 rubles.

Go to hell... (sorry).

Having experienced a nervous breakdown myself, upon arriving home, I dialed my uncle’s number. “Come and pick up the car.”

The answer is short: “Ripe?”

The next day they arrived, picked it up, and two days later they sold it for the same money as they bought it for, considering that I hit it a little and scratched the rear fender.

And now the point!)))

The question arose of buying a car, preferably a NEW one, a convenient lending system, even if there is money, but it has a more important purpose - home renovation and courage (I’m 23, what do you want), acceptable dynamics.

After consulting with my elders and listening to my comrades, I found myself at a crossroads. Seniors - take the viburnum - a good car for the money, base, 8 valves. Comrades, take a used foreign car, a Japanese one, we can help you with a rod. Friends, of course, are friends, but colleagues at work have examples of failures with foreign cars.

I’m young, I’ll have time to earn money for a brand new BMW, but for now it’s easy for my pocket Lada Kalina with a Lada loan for 6,000 rubles. per month without stress. I decided, so I’ll take it.

Another interesting moment in my life. The salon is decent - coffee, buns))) soft sofas, a full range of models available, additional equipment and other amenities. I’m waiting for approval for a loan, a call from the bank - everything is fine, come and apply.

The sales manager turned out to be an even-tempered guy; we got along with him right away.

I register, wait for the CASCO sheet, wait almost 10 hours, because the insurance company courier is an asshole and a bastard! There is no other way to say it. I couldn’t bring the form since 9 am.

OK. Next incident. It's time to roll the car out of the parking lot to the reception. They couldn’t find mine for an hour))) Under the lumps of snow - they are all the same, but my Lada was rolled from a parking spot to another. It turned out that she served as a donor of spare parts. Something is wrong with the viburnum, they removed it from mine.

I see my honey. The first acquaintance is like the first sex, it’s not the same, but I like it))) There is no lock on the 5th door, there is no central lock, there is something wrong on the back door with the corner of the plug, it’s sticking out incorrectly. Manager manager. He, as I already said, is an even-tempered guy, he pulled the mechanic, pointed his finger at the jambs, saying, fix it, go ahead. He is not happy, but there is nowhere to go.

He rules and bullies some other poor guy.

The documents are ready, it’s dark outside, there’s wind in the tank. The first turn of the key with your own hand - nothing. It spun and died. In the eyes of the poor mechanic there is horror, in the eyes of the manager there is anger, and in mine there is laughter - I am in awe of both. Another attempt. I started up, warmed up, and off I went.

Gas station opposite the car dealership, pour 95, first and last time.

Mileage 8,000 km. (approximately)

Everything is fine, quiet, comfortable.

At first the box was howling, but now it has stopped, my uncle’s previously mentioned friend, the mechanic, the one who served me, spilled it after 3,000 in the 5x50 engine, into the box, he said, it will spill after 12,000, let it roll in.

The car is new, I don’t want to do anything in it, not even play music. I'm a music lover, and good car audio costs about 2,000 bucks. Fuck...! (sorry again). I solve the problem differently, an iPod and expensive headphones. The sound is amazing, and the price is reasonable.

Right now I’ll finish the kitchen renovation and put the car on rims.

Kalina is a normal car. And to be honest, among the guys, they respect the new Russian Kalina more than the old foreign car (for the same money).

I think it makes sense to advise those who don’t want to spend a lot of money on a car.

I like the car, and I’m sure it won’t let me down.

Peace for everyone!

Spacious salon

Not bad dynamics

Appearance (well, I like it!)

Not German)))

The car was purchased for RUB 256,000. according to the Lada Finance program. In terms of operation, it costs at least 350,000 rubles. In general, for your money - Space.

No photos, didn't get around to it.

I bought a Lada Kalina 1.6 8cl. with a station wagon (Norma) at the end of October 2009. at the Vostok-Lada car showroom (Tolyatti). Now the mileage of my Kalina is 55,000 km. At that time, station wagons with a pleasant color “Columbia green” (light green metallic) appeared on sale. I still think this color suits this body type perfectly. Before that I had a VAZ-2111 2005 car. with the same 1.6 engine.

The first impression was pleasant, I liked almost everything, in comparison with the “tens” and Priors, the Kalina has a more spacious interior, the process of getting in and out of the car is more convenient. I noticed the high-quality assembly and painting of the body; the gaps are uniform and neat almost everywhere. The assembly of the interior also left a pleasant impression, especially the light plastic, which creates the impression of spaciousness and lightness in the cabin.

But I will also note some not very pleasant moments during the first kilometers of operation. The electric power steering on Kalina is a very necessary and pleasant thing to use, I still don’t like the “buzzing” sound of its operation, but so far there are no problems with it. The next day after the purchase, Kalina did not want to start (the electronic code from the ignition key could not be read), I had to drag it on a strap to the Mika service center (Dimitrovgrad, Ulyanovsk region), because He is now the only one in our city with a guarantee. As a result, they did a paid “reflash” of the controller, and the machine started up. But soon (after 20,000 km) the immobilizer unit had to be changed for the same reason.

These were the first surprises. The second surprise popped up just after the first (and last) maintenance - the rear windshield wiper motor stopped working, they replaced it 2 months later (!) under warranty. In general, warranty service for VAZs is a separate and sad story.

While getting acquainted with Kalina, I noticed that, like all VAZ cars, it has poor noise and vibration insulation. The main source of noise and vibration is the high-torque and grumbling 8-valve 1.6 engine in company with a howling gearbox. Therefore, I recommend that all owners install additional, and maybe even basic, sound insulation of the interior, especially the engine shield and instrument panel. Another source of noise is the knocking noise from the front shock absorbers when they rebound. Well, this is a design feature of SAAZ shock absorbers, they have insufficient rebound force, and I still drive with these knocks.

After buying the car, while undergoing technical inspection at the traffic police, the “injector” light suddenly came on on the panel, the engine worked without interruptions and failures, it started, but for this “glitch” I had to pay 500 rubles past the cash register, which is what you won’t do for the coveted coupon, although It's such a shame, it's a new car! Then, during the diagnostics, it turned out that there was an error in the operation of the rough road sensor, we open the hood, but it is not there, only the connector to it hangs. The electrician advised me not to buy it, but to rewrite the engine control program for Euro-2 (without sensor) for 500 rubles. That's what I did, the glitch no longer appeared, and the engine on 92 gasoline began to pull more confidently. For the winter, I advise you to replace the factory spark plugs with imported analogues (for example, NGK No. 10, excellent and inexpensive spark plugs).

You may also have to deal with extraneous sounds in the cabin, for example, the itching sound of the gearshift lever, itching from under the instrument panel, the rattling of the flimsy plastic sides of the rear parcel shelf and the rear door panel, and tight pedals are also worth paying attention to. I finished it all, lubricated it, glued it, changed it, secured it differently. As a result, I was quite happy with my work; the cabin became much quieter.

I read in the reviews here, the owners write about comfortable seats, but I want to say on my own – the seats are bad. The front ones have too short and soft a cushion with a backrest pushing out, and the rear seats really lack headrests (it turns out that this is an almost unavailable option from the factory, even in the Luxury).

Many owners praise Kalina for its high ground clearance, yes, a very useful advantage for our roads, I also like it, but this results in poor directional stability on the highway; after 120 km/h the car requires constant steering and movement correction, especially on poor-quality asphalt. I replaced the factory upper supports with tuning ones (manufactured by Asomi, Tolyatti, 2200 rubles per set), and immediately noticed improvements. Firstly, the “Caster” angle increased to “+”, the car began to hold a straight line better, and secondly, the smoothness of the front suspension improved, and bumps began to hit the steering wheel more softly.

At 22,000 km, the alternator belt (manufactured in Balakovo) began to fall apart, changed it to “Caesar”! (150 rubles), failures appeared during acceleration, and the engine began to start worse. The spark plugs are normal, the injector flame is normal, I changed the fuel filter, it didn’t get any better. I climbed into the gas tank, took out the fuel pump and saw a cracked corrugated return hose. Somehow I found it from friends, and at the same time changed the pump intake grid. It helped.

I advise you to change your original wipers, they squeak terribly and only clean well for the first three months. I installed the proven "Champion" (400 rubles). In Kalina, like all front-wheel drive VAZs, the rear springs quickly sag; when fully loaded, the rear wheels rub against the locker, and the studded wheels quickly rub them to holes. I put the spacers under the rear shock absorbers in the lowest position (3 cm), the rear of the car rose a little, but the ride and braking did not become worse.

A special word for the factory front pads - they're kind of terrible! They brake so-so, but they grind and squeak so much that pedestrians are scared. I tried to install imported “Nobel” ones and was not mistaken, sometimes they squeak a little, but they slow down the car well, and they lasted for 45,000 km, the brake discs wore out evenly and will still serve.

Recently a knocking sound appeared in the steering rack, specialists from the Mika car dealership with a smart face convinced me that this is a design flaw of the unit, and cannot be “treated” in any way, even by tightening the adjusting nut, only replacing it with a new one. I went to trusted specialists in a regular workshop (STO "Maria"), where they take care of everything. The mechanic said that the slats on Kaliny are almost no different structurally from the “tenth” slats and can be repaired without much difficulty. When we disassembled the rack, it turned out that there was almost no lubricant in it, it was running dry. We changed cheap washers and bushings, filled it with Litol, put it back, and it worked better than new.

Since new on Kalina, the CV joints have been cracking under load, over time the cracking has disappeared, they probably “filled a groove”, the door seals turned out to be delicate - they began to tear at the driver’s door, the relay for turning on the electric cooling fan periodically “stuck”, the third relay so far doesn't bother. The engine operates under intense thermal conditions in the summer, the temperature does not drop below 90, which is affected by the small engine compartment and an unfinished cooling system.

I would like to note that the factory paints bumpers without a primer, so when chipped, especially after washing, the paint begins to peel off from them like paper, revealing the blackness of the plastic. When choosing a new car, try to choose one with Bor glasses; Chinese ones quickly get scratched and worn out by wipers. On station wagons, I advise you to throw away the factory rear shelf and install a tuning one made of moisture-resistant plywood, covered with carpet (RUR 1,500), it’s worth it.

Overall, I like the car and intend to drive it for a long time. Undeniable advantages: torquey and high-torque 1.6 engine, excellent visibility, spacious and warm interior, excellent maneuverability, good looks, good headlights, good comfort, they also say that Kalina has a strong and corrosion-resistant body.

The main disadvantages are: poor sound insulation of the interior, poor directional stability, noisy and vibration-loaded 1.6 8-cylinder engine, noisy gearbox operation, lack of rear head restraints (if rear seat belts are present), small engine compartment space for engine maintenance. And with such a level of quality, our cars simply must be simple and cheap to maintain, otherwise there’s no point in buying them.

Otherwise, this is a typical VAZ semi-finished product (Priora included), made with the expectation of a “handy” owner, who in the future, and at his own expense, will bring the car to the “final product” and try to love it for at least something. Today, among domestic cars of this class and for such a price, I consider the purchase of Kalina quite justified.

Having studied the front suspension and read articles in the magazine "Behind the wheel" for 2009, I came to the following conclusion. Since the end of 2008 The VAZ plant began installing barrel springs (possibly even foreign-made) in the front suspension, instead of conventional coil springs, supposedly to improve the car’s handling and reduce weight. The design of the shock absorber body itself has also changed. These "barrel" springs have a higher compression force than the previous ones. But for some reason, the manufacturer of the SAAZ struts did not take this into account and did not reconfigure the characteristics of the shock absorber for rebound, changing only the design of the spring cup.

Usually, serious manufacturers of tuning shock absorbers for VAZs (such as SS20, Acomi, TorgMash) increase the rebound force by up to 30% for normal and stable operation of the shock absorber, but the plant simply does not need this. As a result, the spring forcefully throws the front of the car up, and the strut cannot really prevent this, and the valve on the rod constantly knocks on the upper damper. In general, the Skopin struts on all front-wheel drive VAZs start tapping from birth. I would like to hear the opinion of at least one factory specialist on this matter.

I also noticed, when my Kalina was hanging on a lift, dents in the lower part of the cutouts in the front mudguards (where the tie rod with the tip goes) on both sides. Such dents can only be left by the steering rods, touching and resting during the maximum downward stroke of the wheel (for example, driving through a deep hole at speed). From such a touch, naturally, there will also be knocking.

Well, here's the other side of Kalin's high ground clearance. Now, probably, the front springs of my Kalina have sagged a little, because the struts have started knocking less, or maybe it’s time to change them due to invisible damage. In the summer, my Kalina's silent blocks in the rear beam squeak strongly, and this rubbery sound is constantly heard in the cabin. This summer I want to change them to polyurethane ones (600 rubles - a pair), they say it helps.

Master electricians warned me about one very unpleasant “trouble” that some Kalinas have; over time, a sudden leak appears in the radiator of the “stove”, and under it there is a controller that fills it with Antifreeze, and it breaks down forever (and it costs from 4500 rubles + "reflashing"). Therefore, I decided to play it safe and filled the cooling system with a special liquid sealant ("HI-Gear" 150 ml - 170 rubles) for the cooling system. I used this sealant to fix a radiator leak on my previous VAZ-2111.

Low beam bulbs don't last long (4-6 months), and both "Osram" and cheap "Mayak" bulbs burn out equally, "factory Philips" bulbs burned out equally after 2 months on a new car, so I decided not to spend money on them. Instead of large light bulbs (without a base), I installed diode ones (Mayak) with white light for 30 rubles. apiece, they have been burning for the second year now, and there have been no problems with traffic cops.

For a new car I immediately bought a duralumin engine protection (650 rubles, some people call it titanium for some reason), naturally I had to remove the tin factory protection. After installation, the engine compartment gets heavily splashed in rainy weather, so I decided to make homemade plastic shields over the generator and in front of the battery (if there is no ABS unit) from the factory front plastic lockers from 2110-12, cutting them to a suitable size. At the same time, I moved the horn mount under the hood to the mount of the air filter housing to the radiator frame, extended the wiring, now it is in a place inaccessible to thieves and moisture. Now the hood insulation inside is always dry and clean, I don’t know why companies don’t still make shields like those for the “tens”.

I do not recommend installing steel engine protection for the reason that it is heavy, quickly rusts and, if damaged, does not restore its shape, requiring straightening, and the rear “ears” often break off, and it begins to rumble. In winter, take care of the bumpers from contacts, especially the front one, they often burst in cold weather, they were stronger on the “tens”.

Many owners write about Kalin’s speed qualities; I couldn’t squeeze more than 175 km/h on the speedometer out of mine in the summer in calm weather; it feels like it’s hitting a wall of air and doesn’t want to go faster, the engine starts to heat up to 97 degrees, and the roar of the engine becomes unbearable. My “Eleventh” was about 10 km/h faster with the same engine. I attribute this to worse aerodynamics (Kalina is taller than the “ten”, and the exterior mirrors are of a decent size).

Often new Kalinas have an “itching cricket” somewhere under the instrument panel; this sound can also be heard from the left corner of the panel (like mine). After a long search, I found the source of this unpleasant sound, these are the terminals of the brake light sensor at the brake pedal, I wrapped electrical tape around them, and it became easier on my ears. My Kalina's clutch pedal and gearshift lever were still itching. I had a “sticky” aerosis. lubricant for imported motorcycle chains. I treated the clutch cable ratchet, the gas cable and at the same time the inside of the gearshift lever with this lubricant, and half of the extraneous sounds in the cabin immediately disappeared, the gas pedal became much lighter and more informative. A little later, in the gear shift mechanism (slide), I replaced the original metal washers and bushing with homemade ones made of fluoroplastic, tightened the connection between the slide and the lever with a nut, treated all the moving joints with this lubricant, and changed the cover with the handle to a leather one (350 rubles in the store). As a result, gear shifts became clearer, it became more pleasant to “operate” the lever, and most importantly, the itching from the lever disappeared, but the vibrations, unfortunately, did not go away.

Recently I changed the gearbox oil to semi-synthetic 75W90 "Liqui Moly" (3x1l - 1050 rubles), added a little more additive, about 1000 km the speeds began to turn on more softly, and the noise from the gearbox died down a little. Now, in cold weather, I noticed that the oil in the gearbox almost does not thicken, and there is no need to “drive” the gears.

I think my information will be useful for some car owners. Good luck to you "Kalinovody" and less troubles with the car! By the way, I recently drove a VAZ-2114, compared to the Kalina it sucks. Well, you understand what I mean...

Lada Kalina is a budget Russian car. The main element of a car is the engine. The Lada Kalina engine is a completely domestic development. This is an improved power unit from the eighth model of the Lada. He passed the main test of time. The first engine was released back in 1984. True, they were smaller in volume than now.

Main characteristics of the Kalina engine

The first engine model that was installed on the Lada Kalina were conventional 8-valve units numbered 11183, with a displacement of 1.6 liters. Engine power was 82 horsepower. 13.5 seconds were enough for him to accelerate the Lada Kalina to 100 km per hour. This engine pulls great, even at low speeds.

During a long climb, the car does not slow down, but continues to pick it up. Fuel consumption is acceptable. At a speed of 80 km per hour it will be 5.5 liters per 100 km. The engine life is about 230,000 km, but looking at the statistical data, you can see that troubles can happen even at 35-45 thousand km.

The second production engine was 11194. The working volume of the power plant was reduced to 1.4 liters. But the number of valves has doubled, to 16 pieces. The engine power of the Lada Kalina has increased and amounted to 90 horses. Due to the reduction in volume, consumption also decreased. At the same 80 km per hour, less than 5 liters of fuel left the tank.

The acceleration dynamics have become much brighter. It took 12.5 seconds to accelerate to hundreds. The engine life has not changed significantly, about 200,000 km. Although there are examples that have traveled 500,000 km without major repairs, this is the exception rather than the rule.

21126 became the third model, with a displacement of 1.6 liters. Number of valves: 16 pieces. At the same time, engine power increased to 98 horsepower. Many owners carried out their own measurements, and the average figures indicated a power of 107 horsepower.

Perhaps this was a deliberate understatement of the specifications by the manufacturer in order to protect the buyer from excessively paying transport tax. It is known that after passing the 100 hp mark. With. transport tax increases 3 times.

Consumption remained at 5 liters per 100 km. And the acceleration dynamics dropped another half a second when accelerating to hundreds. The traction performance has worsened when compared with its 8-valve counterpart. When climbing, you will definitely have to switch to a lower gear. Resource is about 250,000 km.

Pros and cons of power units of different models of the family

Each Lada Kalina engine has its own immediate advantages and disadvantages. Positive aspects of model 11183:

a time-tested engine (problems can be fixed at any car service center, spare parts are widely available);
excellent traction, even when climbing uphill;
A broken timing belt does not threaten the need to replace pistons and valves.

Negative aspects of model 11183:

valve adjustment must be carried out with enviable regularity;
the factory does not install air conditioners on this model;
noise and vibration (hum, like from a diesel unit).

Motor with serial number 11194

Motor with serial number 11194. Pros:

silent operation;
the most economical gasoline consumption;
there is no need to adjust valves, change oil and filters on schedule;
good dynamics indicators.

Disadvantages of series 11194 motors:

after 50,000 km the oil begins to be consumed;
replacement of valves and pistons when the timing belt breaks (the piston system is quite scarce).

And finally, the last contender. Power unit number 21126. Advantages:

silent operation;
the best dynamics, the most powerful engine;
There is no need to adjust the valves, only routine maintenance.

There is only one drawback: repair of valves and pistons in the event of a broken timing belt. Rarely is there continuity from the 11194 series in excessive oil consumption after 3-4 years of service.

Technical Standards and Troubleshooting

All power units of the Lada Kalina are installed together with a 5-speed manual transmission. For the 8-valve Kalina engine, an oil change is provided after 15,000 km. The timing belt, according to technical documentation, should be replaced every 60,000 km. But in order not to run the risk of replacing the belt in the field, it is recommended to change it every 50,000 miles.

In general, chronic deficiencies do not need to be eliminated, but, as with any mechanism, breakdowns are inevitable. As practice shows, any part can fail. From the cylinder head to the offset of the liners. The 16-valve Kalina engine often has problems with the gearbox. Its technical capabilities reach zero after a mileage of about 100,000 km.

When passing the 25-30 thousand km mark, special attention should be paid to the clutch disc. More than 60% of owners replace it during this period. If your family budget allows it, then it is best to install an imported analogue. In 95% of cases, it will last much longer than its original VAZ.

If the Lada Kalina was purchased secondhand, then it is necessary to check the entire engine compartment. It is necessary to make sure that the compression is uniform in all cylinders in the Kalina engine. Otherwise, the protection of the power unit may be at risk. The steering rack should also be checked. This is Kalina’s weak point; such a “chronic disease” is inherent in cars produced before 2006.

One of the signals to seriously think about repairs (possibly overhaul) in the Kalina engine is the exponentially increasing oil consumption. This can happen either at 40 or 140 thousand km. More than half a liter of oil per 1000 km is a critical signal.

Be prepared that the cost of repairs may approach 20,000 rubles. The main elements that require replacement and repair may be: the piston camshaft (the clearance may already be critical), the cylinder block (boring will be required). Changing the engine oil yourself will help you save a lot of money. To do this you need to complete 6 steps.

We warm up the engine to operating temperature, soot and sludge will be better washed out.
We put the car on the handbrake and determine where the drain plug points.
Drain the engine oil and replace the oil filter.
Install a new filter.
Pour in new oil and check the level.
We make a test drive and check the level again.